Types of dowels by design, purpose and material of manufacture

What types of dowels are there?

Dowels are widely used today in all types of repairs. Fixing anything to walls, floors and ceilings is rarely complete without them. With all this, different types of dowels are used for different materials.

So, in order to hang a shelf on a plasterboard wall, you will have to buy special “Molly” dowels. For convenience and speed of working with plaster mesh, when fixing it to the wall, dowel-nails with threads, which are also very often called “quick installation,” are simply an ideal option.

Previously, the construction magazine already talked about what a dowel is. This article will talk about what types of dowels there are, and for what specific purposes they are intended.

General purpose expansion dowels

This is one of the widest groups of dowels that are used when installing furniture elements, suspended ceilings and other structures to the wall. As the name implies, fixation is carried out by expanding in the material, which means the wall must be quite dense.

Previously, instead of such dowels, wooden choppers were used. They were inserted into the drilled holes and self-tapping screws were screwed in, due to which the assembly was pulled apart and fixed. But it takes a long time to plan a chop from wood each time, so we developed expanding structures with standard dimensions for the diameter of the drills.

Description and principle of operation

For fixation, dowels of this type have moving parts that protrude outward as the screw is screwed in. The dowel itself is made of polyethylene, nylon or polypropylene. These are soft materials that are easily exposed to metal screws from the inside.

The length of the dowels can be extended, shortened or standard. There can be two, three or even four spacer blades. Some designs include a countersunk head to hide subsequent fasteners.

Expansion dowel device.

The “antennae” on the “body” of the element prevents the dowel from turning in the wall when the screw is tightened (due to a drill of the same diameter, the hole is slightly broken and without the “antennae” the plastic insert would easily rotate). The edge at the end prevents the dowel from being pushed deep into the wall.

Elements for fastening are available in standard diameters of 5, 6, 8, 10, 12,14,16 mm.

There are rare sizes of 4, 7 and 20 mm.

Difference in design

All expansion dowels have a split part, which diverges as the hardware is wrapped. The non-spacer base ensures that the integrity of the plastic structure is maintained. There may be a lip at the end to limit the insertion depth, but there are versions without it.

Expansion dowel in the wall.

All dowels in the group are also equipped with a guide cone, which ensures easier entry into the hole. According to the elements of tangential and anchor fixation, they differ into several types.

Expansion dowel with spikes

Installers call this model “chapai”. The design has serrated edges on both sides that release the fasteners in the hole. Two large spikes prevent turning until the teeth are engaged. This design is especially convenient when screwing hardware into the ceiling, when they can fall out under their own weight.

Expansion dowel with spikes.

Expansion reinforced dowel

It is most often called the “hedgehog dowel” because it has small protrusions on four sides that resemble spines. There are no long “antennae” in the design. Unlike the previous one, it expands along its entire length and is great for concrete. Due to fixation in all directions, the fastener can withstand increased loads well.

Expansion reinforced dowel.

Three-spread dowel

The model is designated as T-dowel. The spacer part contains, instead of teeth, solid, even ribs that reliably fix the fastener in the hole. The non-expandable base is equipped with conical projections that prevent the dowel from sinking into the wall. It is often used on brick and concrete to fix shelves, lamps, and paintings.

Three-spread dowel.

Application

In general, the expansion group of dowels perfectly resists shear loads, so the fasteners are optimal for walls. The weights hung on it press down, and the spacer part reliably holds the weight of up to 20-30 kg at each point. Dowels of this type are also suitable for floor installation, for example, to secure the linoleum threshold in a concrete floor. The impact from the legs is across the location of the screw axis and it does not become loose.

But when applying longitudinal force, for example, for attaching objects to the ceiling, they are not the best, since they are less resistant to pulling out. On ceilings and consoles, it is permissible to fix only light interior parts or technical devices (installation of wiring under a suspended decorative ceiling, fastening a lamp, etc.). The fixative holds well in concrete, stone, and brick.

Mounting options

There are 2 methods by which fastenings for kitchen cabinets are made. Installation is carried out:

1. One line, that is, the location of the fastener is equidistant from the ceiling;

It is considered the most common type of accommodation. This way you can easily secure the cabinets yourself.

This method is used much less frequently, since its implementation is much more complicated than a linear fastening scheme.

The first method is popular because you can use only your own strength to attach kitchen cabinets, without turning to outside help.

The choice of option is determined by the number, size and depth of wall cabinets.

The second option for attaching fixation items is less common among ordinary people. This is because the roof of this furniture is used as an additional surface.

Any of the proposed variations is perfect for both a room with a small area and a large one.

And all because they do not have any effect on the fullness or compactness of the room.

When choosing a method, only the interior and design change.

Universal multi-sided dowels

Universal dowels are suitable for installation in different materials by density. The hardness of the base affects the method of attachment.

Description and principle of operation

The dowel design has a spacer part, but it does not just expand slightly, but is capable of folding in the area of ​​the opposite end. Thanks to this, a counter stop is created that reliably holds the fastener and the piece of furniture hung on it.

The holding method depends on the density of the wall material. If the wall is solid, then the expanding part moves apart until it stops and is held in place by friction forces. With a hollow wall, the base goes right through, and due to the deformation of the second edge (bent at an angle of 90 degrees or tied in a knot), an anchor is formed.

Difference in design

There are two types of universal dowel configurations - folding and twisting. The first attracts the plastic strips as the metal pin is screwed in. This creates a persistent crossbar that prevents the fasteners from coming out or knocking out part of the wall.

Multi-sided wall plug.

Folding multi-sided dowel.

The second one has a plastic insert that is screwed into a knot when the threaded element rotates. This leads to the formation of a large seal on the reverse side, preventing the movement of the screw. The first type of dowel can be unscrewed back if desired, but the second type cannot.

Twistable dowel in the wall.

Twistable dowel.

Application

Universal dowels are applicable everywhere where expansion dowels are used. Moreover, they will be able to catch where spacers would simply jump out (for example, in hollow materials). Due to the formation of a large stop on the reverse side, universal dowels adhere better to the ceiling. But they are inferior in terms of load-bearing capacity, and it is undesirable to hang heavy hanging tables, cabinets and other objects on them.

Most often they are used for fixation:

• wooden blocks;
• metal slats;
• parts from suspended ceilings;

Confirmat: nuances of application

This name actually hides the simplest screws. The fastener primarily differs from most others in the simplicity and accessibility of installation for everyone, since absolute precision is not required from the assembler.

In order to fasten the furniture pipe, you only need a drill. For independent work, it is advisable to immediately purchase a hex key, since there is a special hole in the head for it.

To install this part, you will need to additionally drill two new holes. One of them should be in the element that will be fixed, and the second - right at the end of the part itself.

The ease of the process of assembling any furniture using confirmat allows the master to drill holes independently, saving time.

You can make the repair process even easier by using an additional drill designed for fastening. But many craftsmen note that this device quickly becomes loose, so they make do with classic drills and, judging by the photos of furniture fasteners, everything goes well.

Types of dowels for drywall and other thin-walled materials

Thin-walled materials include: gypsum fiber boards, particle boards, plasterboard sheets and others. A regular expansion dowel cannot be fully secured in them due to the low density of the base and shallow depth.

Such panels are often used for decorative wall cladding, insulation or installation of partitions. To hang a picture or shelf on such a base, you can use universal fasteners. But it is better to resort to a variety of dowels designed specifically for thin-walled materials.

The most common are “butterflies” with different design variations, available from many manufacturers. The transformable part can be made of either plastic or metal. The general principle of operation of the dowel is to form a massive stop on the reverse side, due to which the element is securely held in the wall.

For this:

1. the thin wall base is passed through with a drill;
2. insert the dowel;
3. tighten the self-tapping screw.

As it deepens, the thread tightens the far end, expanding the edges of the supporting crossbar.

Other versions of drywall anchors have a one-piece design and are held in place by tall threads. Some can be unscrewed if necessary and installed in a new location, others can be mounted only once and forever.

According to the characteristics, dowels in this category are divided according to wall thickness, but most often they are produced in one size. Then the latch on the reverse side can move completely or partially.

Another parameter is the diameter of the dowel with a “shirt”. The choice of drill for making a hole depends on it. There are types of dowels that can be installed without pre-drilling, which increases productivity. Let's look at each type in more detail.

Dowel butterfly

The fastener was named because of its similarity in shape to butterfly wings. It consists of two parts - a metal screw and a plastic “shirt”. The latter is made of nylon and contains a non-expanding part with a side and a counter end with a thread. Between them there is a folding part, which is additionally reinforced with sliding partitions.

Butterfly dowel.

As the screw is screwed in, the ends are attracted to each other, and the longitudinal ribs become perpendicular, forming a large stop on the reverse side.

Butterfly dowel in a plasterboard wall.

In order for the plastic part to open, the length of the screw must be at least 55 mm. Only in this case will the plastic part open completely. The dowel can be unscrewed and re-tightened. Reliability of retention is not lost in this case.

Use it to attach to drywall:

• cornices;
• chandeliers;
• slats;
• shelves;
• antennas.

Dowel Driva

This is a type of dowel without a flared part. It consists of two elements installed in series. The first is a cone with a helical thread. It can be made of plastic or metal.

Wood dowel made of plastic.

Metal dowel.

The part is inserted into a pre-prepared hole by screwing it in with a special attachment. There are versions with a drill at the end, thanks to which installation occurs without pre-drilling.

Driva dowel with drill.

Due to the high thread turns with a wide pitch, reliable fixation is achieved in the hollow material. A slight protrusion of the element onto the opposite side of the panel is allowed.

Wood dowel in the wall.

The second part of the dowel is a steel self-tapping screw that is screwed into an already installed base. With its help, paintings, frames and other not very heavy objects are attached. The dowel is easy to dismantle if you need to remove the installed elements. When both parts of the dowel are metal, it can even be screwed into chipboards, which have a higher density compared to plasterboard.

Dowel Molly

The most reliable type of drywall dowels is “Molly”. It is made only of metal. This is galvanized steel, which has excellent corrosion resistance, so the fasteners do not deteriorate even in damp rooms. The dowel has a hollow collet with a supporting edge. It has teeth that protect the fasteners from turning. Such fasteners are classified by diameter and length, which is important to consider when choosing a specific thickness of plasterboard sheet.

Dowel Molly.

Installation is carried out using a drill, and then:

1. A hollow collet is inserted into the prepared hole.
2. Using a special gun, it is pushed apart using a lever method from the reverse side.
3. The tool is removed and a screw is inserted into the hole with a metal edge. It just screws on the thread.

If necessary, the screw can be easily unscrewed and reinstalled. The load-bearing capacity is not lost.

Molly dowel in the wall.

One Molly dowel can withstand a load of up to 25 kg, so they are actively used for hanging kitchen furniture, chandeliers, lamps, cornices and shelves.

The screws in Molly dowels come with a countersunk head (so as not to interfere with the installation of other overlapping panels) or with a spherical head (when the mounting eyes are located on top of the furniture or inside the cabinet).

Options

Both the dowel and the anchor according to GOST belong to the same type of fastener. Some of these products are regulated by GOST 28778-90 “Self-anchoring expansion bolts”. Dowels are produced from cold-rolled steel of class VK or KK. The hardness of the spacer sleeve should reach 51.5 HRC, the hardness of a screw or nail should be 53–56 HRC.

The product is almost always galvanized to ensure corrosion resistance. Stainless steel fasteners are also available - their cost is noticeably higher.

In fact, the dimensions of the product vary within a very wide range, given the variety of their execution. In most cases, fastener parameters are determined by specifications.

Dimensions, weight, installation conditions of the universal dowel are given in the table. The weight of the dowel is theoretical, calculated based on the density of the material.

The sizes of fasteners for a construction gun are not so varied.

Dowels for aerated concrete and other porous materials

Aerated concrete, unlike drywall, is voluminous and thick, but contains many voids within its structure. Multiple engagement points are required for secure fixation. Here are the main types of dowels suitable for such material.

Dowel with cutters

The sleeve is made of sheet iron. The working surface has four expanding edges, covered along the entire “body” with cutters. When screwing in the self-tapping screw, the steel teeth seem to “bite” into the aerated concrete and prevent the fastener from moving outward.

Dowel for aerated concrete with cutters.

For reliable installation, it is necessary to correctly select the diameter of the drill so that the dowel does not dangle in it. In this case, the four working edges with cutters will prevent rotation along the axis and will reliably open up. But the product cannot be dismantled, since the metal takes on an expanded shape and does not move back, which means the installation location must be carefully verified.

Dowel for aerated concrete with cutters in the wall.

Dowel with screw ribs

The model is marked GB. It is a plastic conical tube with a cut and solid ribs protruding along the entire structure. They are located with a slight overlap in the spiral, so they rotate slightly at the moment of driving. Due to the long, rounded ribs, the load is evenly distributed over the entire circumference and the dowel sits securely in the aerated concrete wall.

Dowel with screw ribs.

The plastic sleeve can accommodate screws with a diameter of up to 28 mm. Such elements have approval from the German building supervision organization and are suitable for preliminary or permanent installation in aerated concrete.

Dowel with screw ribs.

The length of the screw is calculated by adding the length of the dowel itself, the thickness of the mounting eye and another diameter of the screw. The element is even suitable for fixing into unplastered walls. When installing, it is important to use the drilling mode without impact, otherwise the hole will be too loose and weaken the fixation.

Metal dowel with internal thread

The dowel is made of metal and has high turns of external thread. Due to this structure, it is well retained in the porous material and resists not only shear loads, but also longitudinal effects.

Metal dowel with internal thread.

Installed in a pre-drilled hole using a hex wrench using the rotation method. For large volumes of mounting elements, it is advisable to use a screwdriver or drill at low speeds.

The dowel has proven to be resistant not only to static but also to variable loads, for example, holding shelves, shoe stands, and kitchen hanging cabinets. Since the part is entirely made of metal, it provides increased fire resistance and can be used near heating sources (it is allowed to hang heating radiators or fireplace protective screens on such dowels).

Based on the base materials, the dowel is suitable for:

• solid and hollow light expanded clay;
• solid porous concrete;
• ordinary expanded clay.

Installation features

To drive a dowel into, it is not necessary to invite craftsmen. You can do everything yourself. You will need the following tools and materials: the dowel itself of a certain design, a sharp nail, an electric drill and a Pobedit drill (you can use a hammer drill), electrical tape, a small hammer.

The main stages of fastening:

• The installation location is planned after careful design.
• Using a hacksaw, nail or anything else, make a small indentation in the marked area.
• A drill bit for an electric drill of the appropriate diameter is selected - it must exactly match the size of the screw and the required hole for it. The dowels must be inserted into the hole with force in order to securely fasten inside. It is advisable to make a mark on the drill with a piece of electrical tape along the depth of the hole with a small margin to limit drilling. The drill must be strictly perpendicular to the surface. A hole is made.
• You need to remove dust, debris, crumbs from the hole - it is better to do this with a vacuum cleaner, but you can use anything.
• Next, a plastic or metal dowel for concrete is carefully installed into the hole, driven with a hammer to the maximum stop with strong, precise movements, and a screw is screwed into it (if screws are supposed to be included in the construction kit).

Frame dowels (facade)

This is the most heavily loaded type of fastener with plastic elements. The model should not be confused with frame anchors, where the “shirt” is also made of metal. The frame dowel uses a plastic sleeve of complex shape and a screw of increased thickness. This allows you to hang particularly heavy parts on the fasteners, eliminating gradual subsidence in the material.

Description and principle of operation

Frame dowels have “whiskers”, teeth and moving parts that stick out to the sides as the screw is turned. The steel element is equipped with a low-profile thread and is produced 10 mm longer than the plastic counterpart. The screw is tightened with a screwdriver, screwdriver, star wrench, and in the largest versions of the dowel, with a spanner.

The model is available in different lengths up to 100 mm, so it is well fixed in numerous places, even when installed in “weak” materials with pores or technical voids. The product is suitable for through installation. The increased dimensions of the fasteners contribute to an increase in the fixation area.

Difference

According to their configuration, frame dowels are conventionally divided by the number of spacer zones. There are one or several such rising plates. The plastic sleeve has comb tracks or single triangular ribs. An expansion zone is provided both next to the cone and closer to the base, which prevents the dowel from loosening in a fragile material with voids.

Application

Due to the design with an increased cross-section of plastic and metal, as well as a more elongated non-expanding part, the frame dowel is suitable for fixing heavy building materials. It is used during installation:

• wooden beams and slats;
• door frames;
• window frames;
• large-diameter communications (for example, sewer pipes);
• brackets and tires;
• façade laths.

The steel element sits securely in the plastic part and resists shearing or bending forces. Since the fasteners provide for through installation, the product always has a collar that protects it from falling into hollow materials. The head can be either hidden for inserting the screw flush or protruding.

Disc-shaped dowels (fungi, umbrellas)

These are special-purpose dowels with an enlarged plate-shaped head. It increases the clamping area of ​​the fixed material. The diameter of the fungus is possible from 45 to 90 mm. The cross-section of the nail itself is 8 and 10 mm. From the outside, the fasteners are usually covered with finishing materials, such as plaster, and therefore do not affect the design of the building.

Description and principle of operation

The dowel consists of a large plate that distributes the load from the received material more evenly. Since it is used to fix fragile insulation (foam plastic, mineral wool, etc.), the large area of ​​the cap prevents it from breaking through. Installation of fasteners is carried out using a hammer drill, which makes a hole in the wall. Then insulation is applied and a dowel-fungus is inserted through it.

Disc-shaped dowel in the wall.

Fixation is achieved by driving a long nail that pushes the plastic sleeve apart. In this case, it is important not to drill the hole for the dowel very deeply, otherwise there will be a depression on the surface of the insulation. An umbrella on a leg perfectly holds soft material, preventing both displacement along the wall and detachment from it.

Difference

Umbrella dowels are available with or without expansion washers. This additional element fixes the insulation even more reliably.

Disc-shaped dowel with expansion washer.

In addition to wall dowels, they produce fungi for installing roofing materials. In this case, the nail is driven into the concrete (ceiling) and can hold corrugated sheets, ondulin, roofing felt and other sheet panels.

The large cap prevents water from flowing into the mounting hole. With this type of dowel, the plastic umbrella contains three large spikes that prevent movement. The conical part makes it easier to insert the plastic sleeve into a pre-prepared hole.

Dowels for insulation are divided into the following types:

1. With a plastic nail. There are no metal elements in this design. Plastic perfectly tolerates temperature changes from -40 to +80 degrees. The fastener can withstand impacts of 20-380 kg/m². Plastic retains heat transfer better, which is beneficial when installing insulation.

Due to their low cost, most buyers prefer these dowels, but they are not suitable for fixing thick insulation.

Dowel with plastic nail.

2. With a metal nail. A similar design, only the expansion nail is made of galvanized steel. The holder does not rust and can withstand loads of up to 750 kg/m². This is a more reliable way to connect soft insulation and the wall, but cold also passes through the metal. The cost of dowels with steel nails is higher.

Dowel with metal nail.

3. With thermal head. The metal nail head is complemented by a plastic tip. It serves as an insulator and slows down heat transfer. With such a thermal head, the dowels are the most expensive, but the best in quality.

Dowel with a nail with a thermal head.

Application

Umbrella dowels are optimal for fixing mineral wool slabs to walls with subsequent covering with decorative panels. They are used when attaching strips of sheet insulation. They have proven themselves to be good at holding foam boards with a thickness of 25-50 mm. Subsequent plastering completely aligns the attachment points with the general surface and hides them.

Choice

The search for suitable dowels requires taking into account the type of surface to which the furniture will be attached. They are not installed on wooden walls. In other cases, you need to take into account the recommendations of specialists.

1. Fastening to brick or concrete. Here it is worth considering simple metal or plastic dowels, wooden plugs for nails. They will be sufficient if the load on the wall is not too great and you plan to hang a shelf or kitchen cabinet.
2. Mounting to drywall. Here special dowels are used that can provide reliable fastening. These can be butterfly or MOLLY products.
3. Mounting light shelves with a minimum amount of additional decor or lighting. For them, it will be enough to use dowels or “butterflies” made of nylon.
4. Heavy, heavily loaded shelves. Storage systems in the most critical areas of the kitchen, living area, and workshop require the use of the most reliable metal fasteners. These can be MOLLY dowels or classic metal versions.
5. If there is cladding on the wall. If the base is hidden under the interior decoration, it is necessary to use bookmark bars with a thickness equal to that of the transverse frame. The best fasteners here are MOLLY.

Types of dowels based on material of manufacture

Although there are dowels with metal sleeves, most often this type of fastener is made of plastic. It is more affordable and does not require complex equipment with high heating temperatures to melt and give the desired shape. There are three types of plastic available.

Polyethylene (PE)

It is a product obtained by the polymerization of colorless ethylene gas. During the crystallization process, a dense plastic mass is formed. The structural formula of polyethylene belongs to saturated hydrocarbons and contains (-CH2-CG2-)n.

The substance tolerates exposure to negative temperatures down to -40 degrees. The plastic is quite durable, has high viscosity and does not absorb water. The material does not dissolve under the influence of gasoline, oils, acids, alkalis and alcohols.

Disadvantages include susceptibility to aging, a tendency to crack at too low temperatures, and destruction from aromatic hydrocarbons, as well as chlorinated hydrocarbons.

Polyethylene dowel.

Polypropylene (PP)

It is a derivative of ethylene. The structural formula classifies it as a saturated hydrocarbon and looks like this: (-CH2-CH(CH3)-)n. The material serves well at elevated temperatures up to +80 degrees, but is not so good in cold weather. Susceptible to aging and cracking. Under normal conditions, it is not brittle and hard, and does not absorb water at all.

Polypropylene can withstand prolonged contact with acids, alkalis, alcohols and saline solutions, but it also deteriorates from chlorinated hydrocarbons. This substance also allows odors to pass through.

Polypropylene dowel.