Rating of the best float switches for 2022

The main purpose of the float switch is to ensure correct automatic adjustment and operation of electric pumps in various systems. Practical, reliable and convenient switches are guaranteed to be used in drains and sewers, sewerage systems and water supply systems, where they play the role of not only a control device, but also where they simultaneously perform the functions of a water level sensor, and also protect processing equipment from running idle for a long time. dry run."

Properly integrated into the overall system, this device will permanently monitor the functioning of all communication elements and turn on/off the pump in a timely manner when the specified (or permissible) level of water (or other liquid) in the system nodes changes. Typically, the described device is placed in containers, tanks, tanks, and wells.

Pros and cons of a homemade device

Advantages of a homemade float dispenser:

• simplicity of design;
• manufacturing requires a minimum of tools;
• assembly is completed in a matter of minutes;
• if the float fails, you can quickly make a new one;
• You can get a homemade float for free, you only have to buy tablets.

Disadvantages of a homemade float:

• it is necessary to first calculate the number of tablets and select a suitable container for making a float;
• you will have to independently control the pH level and composition of the water;
• If you accidentally turn the float over, water will get into it and it will sink to the bottom.

Most of the disadvantages also apply to factory dispenser floats. Their only advantage is greater stability. However, it is not difficult to restore the buoyancy of a homemade dispenser - you need to lift it from the bottom and pour out a certain amount of water.

Float switch for water level control

The space of one such tank is sufficient to accommodate several floats, and they can solve various problems:

• Monitor the operation of the main pump;
• Ensure efficient operation of the auxiliary pump;
• Act as an emergency level sensor;
• Use as an overflow sensor.

Using similar water level control devices that are used in these systems, it is possible to protect the pumping apparatus from going into “dry running” mode. Also, in the case of filling different tanks, this element allows you to protect them from overflow.

There are several types of floats for pumps:

The first ones became widespread in water supply and wastewater systems. The latter are mostly used as part of drainage, fecal and rainwater runoff. In stores, these devices are offered with cable lengths of 2, 3, 5 and 10 meters.

Rating of the best float switches for 2022

Mechanical models

3rd place: “Aquatek” 1″ 0-16-3065

A simple and reliable unit to use, it is more intended for work at the household level. In industrial conditions, it is preferable to install the group directly using a rod fastening. It has all the necessary characteristics and is easy to install.

"Aquatek" 1″ 0-16-3065

Advantages:

• Easy installation;
• High reliability;
• High-quality material made.

Flaws:

• The functionality is not sufficient for industrial capacities.

2nd place: “NНT” QuickStop 1

Another standard model designed for use in domestic conditions. According to customer reviews, it has a more durable design and the locking process is much clearer. Even over time, there is no need to replace the control arm. Installation and integration into the container are simple and intuitive.

"NT" QuickStop 1

Advantages:

• Durable housing;
• Extended service life;
• Does not require frequent prophylaxis.

Flaws:

• Quite a high price for a mechanical model.

1st place: “NНT” QuickStop G3/4″

A universal unit that can be used in tanks of various depths. Its control arm can be increased by adding plug-in segments up to 7 meters. Also, the housing is specially designed to allow water to pass through at high pressure (60 MPa).

“NНT” QuickStop G3/4″

Advantages:

• Increased throughput;
• Heavy-duty housing;
• Modified connection type;
• The length of the control arm is from 60 cm to 7 meters.

Flaws:

• Requires monthly supervision of the strength of the joint joints of the controlling shoulder.

Electric models

3rd place: UNIPUMP 74528

One of the most popular models, which fully justifies its functionality in the “price/quality ratio” category. The set is well-equipped, including a long cord, and is perfect for working in running water and in medium-aggressive environments.

UNIPUMP 74528

Advantages:

• Does not require constant prevention;
• Ease of integration into any tanks;
• Additional weight included.

Flaws:

• Not very durable body.

2nd place: Tecnoplastic FOX 5 m

This float switch is intended for use in drainage/water supply systems (flowing water only). It has a reinforced housing protection system according to the European standard IP68. The warranty has been extended from six months to a year and three months. Officially produced in Russia under Italian license.

Tecnoplastic FOX 5 m

Advantages:

• High-quality case material;
• Relatively long wire included (5 meters);
• Extended warranty period.

Flaws:

• Not found (for its class).

1st place: Tecnoplastic TAURUS 10 m

A classic, versatile and very expensive model of a heavy float switch. Adapted to work in any environment. The body is painted in a yellow signal color, which makes it more visible against the background of dark liquids. Designed for operation at extremely deep depths (up to 20 meters).

Tecnoplastic TAURUS 10 m

Advantages:

• Versatility;
• Work at great depths;
• Good wire insulation.

Flaws:

• Extremely high price.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Making a dispenser float is a simple task, quite accessible to anyone, even without special training.

There is no need to do complex operations here; you can use any containers. The only condition will be the presence of a tight-fitting lid and a size that can accommodate the required amount of chemicals.

The first step is to calculate the amount of chemicals that should be in the float. Here the main criterion is the volume of water in the pool, on the basis of which the dosage is calculated.

Then you need to select the float body.

Capacity requirements:

1. Tight-closing lid.
2. Size sufficient to fit inside the tablet.
3. A material that can be drilled or burned through with a heated metal object.

The best option is a plastic pill jar. It has the right size, the lid is threaded, and the plastic can be drilled without problems (or holes can be made in any other way).

If you don’t have such a jar at hand, you can use any similar jar. Some users make do with a regular plastic drink bottle of 1-1.5 liters.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, you need to prepare everything you need:

• a plastic container with a closing lid;
• electric drill and drill with a diameter of 5-10 mm.

If you don’t have an electric drill, or you don’t have the skills to handle this tool (drilling holes in a plastic can is a rather dangerous activity), you can make holes in any other way:

1. Burn them with a hot metal object (soldering iron, heated nail, awl, etc.).
2. Poke holes with a sharp tool.
3. Use a special punch - a tube with a pointed end edge (this option is only suitable for jars with a wide neck, so that you can rest the container from the inside on a wooden stand).

The most unreliable option is to pierce holes. They will be small in size, preventing the dissolved drug from entering the water in sufficient quantities. The best option is to burn holes.

You can make holes using a semicircular wood cutter (if you have one). They will have a sufficient diameter for good water passage.

In this way, you can make oblong holes, like on factory dispensers. They best ensure the free movement of water in and out of the container.

Drawing and its decoding

Let's look at what the diagram of a simple homemade float from a pill jar looks like:

1 - cover. It must close tightly to prevent air from escaping. 2 - can body. 3 - holes with a diameter of 5-10 mm.

If a bottle or other container is used instead of a can, nothing fundamentally changes. The main condition is to ensure the buoyancy of the hull, for which the holes are made no higher than half its height.

The vertical position of the housing will be ensured by the tablets themselves, which are located in the lower part of the container. When they dissolve, the float may turn over on its side. There is nothing wrong with this, but if necessary, you can attach a small weight to the bottom. It will stabilize the float whether there are tablets in it or not.

Stages of work

Procedure:

1. Rinse the container prepared in advance, inside and out, and remove the paper or plastic label.
2. Using a convenient and accessible tool (drill, soldering iron, cutter), make holes in the bottom and lower part of the case walls. The holes should not be located above the middle of the container, otherwise there will be too little air left in it and the float will sink to the bottom.
3. The number of holes should be sufficient for the free movement of water. The more there are, the better. However, it is necessary to ensure sufficient strength so that the housing does not collapse and the chemicals cannot fall out.

When the holes are ready, the manufacturing process can be considered complete. The only addition would be to seal the lid threads so that air does not escape through the leaks.

You can wrap it with a couple of turns of FUM tape or apply a little candle wax and screw on the lid. The wax will harden and make the connection fairly airtight.

DIY pool float, video instructions:

Difficulties that arise and tips for eliminating them

Being aware of the peculiarities of the functioning of the tanks and, of course, the float itself, you can make adjustments without any difficulties. Most often, the float breaks in several cases.

Sometimes the water supply to the tank completely stops. In other situations, water continues to rise after reaching the optimal level.

The design of the floats, depending on the type of toilet model, may differ significantly. Some floats are hollow and hermetically sealed.

Often designs are designed that resemble an ordinary inverted glass. If the structure is hollow, when liquid enters the device completely loses its functional features.

The second float option most often fails when too much dirt accumulates in it. In this case, you can simply perform the cleaning procedure and the float valve of the side-facing toilet mechanism will work normally.

Homemade float switch

If you have the time and desire, then you can make a simple float water level sensor with your own hands, and the costs for it will be minimal.

Mechanical system

In order to simplify the design as much as possible, we will use a ball valve (faucet) as a locking device. The smallest valves (half-inch or smaller) work well. This type of faucet has a handle that closes it. To convert it into a sensor, you need to extend this handle with a strip of metal. The strip is attached to the handle through holes drilled in it with the appropriate screws. The cross-section of this lever should be minimal, but it should not bend under the influence of the float. Its length is about 50 cm. The float is attached to the end of this lever.

You can use a two-liter plastic soda bottle as a float. The bottle is half filled with water.

You can check the operation of the system without installing it in the tank. To do this, install the faucet vertically and place the lever with the float in a horizontal position. If everything is done correctly, then under the influence of the mass of water in the bottles, the lever will begin to move down and take a vertical position, and the valve handle will turn with it. Now submerge the device in water. The bottle should float up and turn the valve handle.

Since valves vary in size and the amount of force required to switch them, the system may need to be adjusted. If the float cannot turn the valve, you can increase the length of the lever or take a larger bottle.

We mount the sensor in the container at the required level in a horizontal position, while in the vertical position of the float the valve should be open, and in the horizontal position it should be closed.

Some features of device installation

There are several ways to properly install a float switch. However, first of all, you need to make sure that the current consumed by the pump is less than the maximum required and specified in the operating instructions for the float.

Standard single module installation

The fastest, simplest and least labor-intensive method is to install the float into the tank using a waterproof wire and a special weight, which are usually included in the kit upon purchase.

The installation procedure is as follows:

• A load is strung onto a cable rope. Then, experimentally, the length of the arm at which there is free movement of the float device is established;
• After measurement, the position of the load is fixed on the cable using a special practical clothespin;
• Then the cable is attached to the outer wall of the container using special fasteners;
• Upon completion of the previous steps, the float itself is connected to the pumping system. Here you must follow the clear instructions set out in the documentation for the equipment.

At the end of all the necessary procedures, the equipment must undergo a performance test. For these purposes, the pump is started in normal mode for 2-3 hours, while it is continuously supervised by the operator. If no failures occurred during the testing period, the liquid is pumped normally, this means that the installation was carried out correctly and in compliance with all instructions and recommendations.

Installation procedure for two or more modules

In the case when the design and estimate documentation requires the installation of several float devices, it makes sense to use the rod installation method. Any fragment of a durable plastic tube is perfect for the role of a rod fastening element. It is tightly and clearly fixed inside the container intended for filling.

Next, the floats themselves are attached to the rod. They should be evenly spaced along the entire length of the tube so that upon completion of fixation and adjustment, some free space remains around each device. This method ensures that each module can perform its own function without interfering with its neighbors.

The cables coming from the switches are attached to the rod base using clamps. This method allows you to install almost any number of switches, which will ensure full control of the entire complex, even if it consists of several pumps.

In addition, if the need arises, you can use more than two rods and, accordingly, mount a larger number of devices on them. Naturally, this will be necessary only with a fairly large tank volume, and also when control must be exercised over several pumps at once and signals must be sent to several control panels.

Operating principle of float for pumps

Devices such as float switches can provide for different schemes for their use, and this also affects their principle of operation.

Water supply system, filling and emptying tank tank tank

With this operating scheme, at the moment of ascent, the float de-energizes the pump, which supplies water to the tank. The signal to turn on will only come when it reaches the bottom. This situation occurs only when the container is empty.

The float sends a signal to turn on the automatic water supply station the moment it is on the surface. The station can be turned off only when the float sinks to the bottom when the container is empty.

From the side of the float, a signal was received to close the valve or valve with a servo drive at the moment it was raised to the surface. The valve or gate valve will open only when it sinks to the bottom when the container is empty.

The operation of the float can only consist of notifying the control center or operator at the moment it is raised to the surface, which will correspond to the filling of the container. Information about the lack of water will arrive at the moment when the float reaches the bottom.

Sewage system

The float will turn on the fecal pumping equipment only when the main control device is raised up. The pumping unit is turned on when the control device is immersed in the bottom.

One float can simultaneously serve two pumping units: the first unit can supply water to the container, provided that the float is in the lower position. At this moment, the other pump is inactive. When the float is in the upper position, the second pump is turned on, whose task is to pump water out of the tank. At this time, the pump that supplies water to the tank is inactive. Despite its simplicity, the above scheme for using a float switch is not very effective, since this does not eliminate difficulties with the regular delivery of water at those moments when the tank is filling.

Classification of existing devices

Modern models of float switches are conventionally divided into two types: light and heavy. The first ones are used in pumping systems that carry out drainage or supply running clean water to the population for domestic purposes. The latter are used in the management of fecal pumping equipment and drainage systems.

IMPORTANT! A float switch should be purchased based on the future tasks of its use. Lightweight models attract buyers with a low price, but they are adapted to function only in clean water!!!

Heavy units are considered more universal - they work equally well in clean and polluted environments, but using them in running water is impractical due to their high cost.

Selecting a water level sensor in the tank and container

To automate many production processes, it is necessary to monitor the water level in the tank; the measurement is carried out using a special sensor that gives a signal when the process medium reaches a certain level. It is impossible to do without level meters in everyday life; a striking example of this is the shut-off valve of a toilet cistern or an automatic system for shutting off a well pump. Let's look at the different types of level sensors, their design and operating principle. This information will be useful when choosing a device for a specific task or making a sensor yourself.

Overview of species

There are 2 types of valves.

1. Mechanical. Absolutely simple design, reliability and stability to aggressive environments, long service life.
2. Electrical. Provide process automation (there is no need for human control over the work process). The device has a more complex structure compared to a mechanical valve.

Another positive point is that valves of this type do not create additional noise during operation.

Let's take a closer look at each of them separately.

Mechanical

Mechanical type regulators include a variety of devices for controlling the water level in tanks. They are the easiest way to control the maximum and minimum liquid levels in a container if the pressure in the main water supply is less than 5 bar and there is no voltage.

The principle of their operation is that the float is connected to a lever; when the liquid level changes, the float moves this lever up or down, and in response it affects the valve, which opens (closes) the liquid supply. These devices can be seen as a flush mechanism for toilet cisterns. They are quite practical to use where it is necessary to systematically add water from a centralized water supply system.

Mechanical devices have a number of positive qualities:

• simplicity of design;
• small size;
• safety;
• autonomy - do not require any sources of electrical energy;
• reliability;
• low cost;
• ease of installation and adjustment.

However, these valves have one serious drawback - they are able to control only one (upper) level, which depends on the installation location, and adjust it, if possible, within rather small limits. In stores, this valve may be called a “float valve for containers.”

Electrical

Before purchasing such equipment, you need to take some points into account. The productivity with which liquid will be drawn from the tank and the capacity of the water tank itself should be taken into account.

If productivity is low and water is used quickly, an electric type valve is the ideal solution. It is mounted on the tank together with a valve with an electromagnetic drive and a filter to purify water from mechanical impurities. This will make it possible to quickly fill the container and warm up the water in it, as a result of which the period of time between waterings will be significantly reduced.

This modification of the float valve for tanks has the following properties:

• the float mechanism is protected from moisture by an impenetrable casing;
• The wiring length is presented in 2 variations - 3 and 6 meters.

This product is often used to start/stop pump automation in the absence of water during pump operation and in the water supply pipeline. In this case, the float itself must be mounted at the lowest point of the liquid level.

To ensure against overflow, it is necessary to organize sequential installation of float valves of 2 types. The fluid level is monitored by an electrical device, and a mechanical valve serves as an additional tool. When the electrical valve malfunctions, the flow of liquid into the tank will be blocked by a mechanical device. The price of float valves for tanks is low, but at the same time they make the procedure for filling tanks automatic and quite comfortable.

Design features and functionality of the unit

The design of the float switch itself is quite elementary. Inside the housing, made of high-strength, heat-resistant plastic, there is a functioning electrical switch. Nearby there is a lever for moving the contacts in the switch and a steel ball, which is responsible for the position of the lever element when changing the position of the float itself.

Devices of this type belong to a number of universal options for household/industrial devices, due to the fact that they operate equally correctly both when the storage tank is empty and when it overflows.

Extending from the switch assembly is a cable that typically consists of three wires—black, brown, and blue. Black is the common wire, blue comes from the normal open contact of the switch, and brown comes from the normal closed contact.

There are also special requirements for the conductive wire and the housing itself. The first must necessarily have an increased moisture resistance limit, and the second must be completely sealed and impermeable to water.

The outlet of the device is additionally secured with a high-strength seal and is equipped with a practical device that neutralizes mechanical stress in the wire.

In turn, the insulated part of the cable entry must be filled with polymer resin, which will prevent moisture (or any other liquid) from entering inside and ensure normal operation of the equipment as a whole.

As a rule, both the body and the sheath of the wire have a high level of strength and heat resistance. Thanks to these properties, they are almost invulnerable to external elements of an aggressive environment, such as fecal liquid masses, fruit and uric acid, gasoline, as well as liquid oils, etc.

Inside, the space of the float-switch housing is filled with air, therefore, the device constantly strives to float up and take the highest possible position in relation to the bottom of the tank. If the liquid level in the container drops, the float, accordingly, drops closer to the bottom.

The length of the wire that is required to move the mechanism is a parameter that regulates the spread between the lower and upper positions of the float switch. The starting point relative to which the movement will be carried out is set by a sinker moving along the switch cable.

The device body usually has a non-porous and smooth surface. Fragments of human waste do not stick to it and particles of dirt found in sewage channels do not stick. At the same time, paper, grains of sand, and other solid objects simply slide off the unit, without in any way affecting its functionality, efficiency or buoyancy.

It is worth noting that float switches are extremely functional in themselves and can be adapted to solve a wide range of problems. Just a few modules, correctly assembled into a single system in one container, can provide:

• Full functioning of the main pump of the entire communication network;
• Effective operation of the accessory (auxiliary) pump;
• Detection of a sharp drop in the liquid level in the container, acting as both an emergency controller and an overflow level sensor.

All this will significantly reduce the load on the working equipment and protect the pumping system as a whole from premature wear, transition to “dry running” and other technical problems and potential malfunctions.

Select and buy a float valve for a container or tank

12.01.2012

Using modern solutions and the necessary equipment, you can automate various processes of dacha life. Turning the well pump on and off for water supply, energy saving, heating - all these are important elements of country life.

An important factor is watering the garden, and heated water in the reservoir is the key to the health of your plants. To maintain automatic control of the water level in the tank, you will need a float valve for the tank as well as several fittings for its installation.

Let's look at the different types of these devices.

Before you buy a mechanical or electric type float valve for a tank, think about the implementation of your goals. It is necessary to take into account the productivity with which water will be drawn from the tank, as well as the volume of the irrigation tank itself.

At the same time, your tank will quickly fill and warm up, which means the time between watering cycles will be significantly reduced.

This float valve for a tank has a waterproof body and a wire of 3 or 6 meters. It can also be used to turn the automatic pump on and off during dry running by setting the float to the lowest point of the water level.

In this case, you do not have to constantly turn on the pump by hand when the automatic operation is activated during dry running. This solution is very convenient if you rarely visit the site, and the water in the village water supply runs rather slowly. The energy dependence of the system on a constant power source is perhaps the only negative.

If this is not available, you should consider a 1” mechanical type float valve.

Upon supplying the top-up pipe, a hole of 1” or 25 mm is made in the tank. The valve itself with a crimp nut and a rubber gasket is inserted into it. At the output we will get a threaded pipe for connecting the topping pipe using a fitting.

We adjust the plastic float of the valve to the maximum water level by loosening or tightening the nut on the movable float arm.

All is ready! We open the main valve to supply water to the tank; as it fills, the float will move to the upper adjusted level mark, and the valve mechanism will block the access of water to the tank.

Thus, the main control of the water level in the tank is provided by an electric float valve for the tank, and auxiliary control is provided by a mechanical float valve for the tank. In the event of a malfunction of the top-up electromagnetic valve (membrane clogged, old age, leakage, etc.)

) the mechanical valve will stop adding water to the tank when it reaches its maximum level. This method will protect the container from overflowing and unforeseen consequences for its owner.

• Aquatech mechanical float valve 1″ for regulating the filling level of the container.
• Fill level Quickstop float valve for container.
• Electric level float switch (up to 220 V) with 3-wire wire for process water
• Leave a comment Metal float valve for Farg tank with brass seat 3/4″ – 1.1/4″ (without ball!)
• Leave a comment Metal float valve for Farg tank with stainless steel seat AISI 430 3/4″ – 2″ (without ball)
• Metal float valve for Farg tank with stainless steel seat 1/2″-1″ for hot water
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• Leave a comment TAURUS float switch with 10-20 m wire for domestic and industrial wastewater
• Leave a commentDesigned to determine the filling level of a container with liquid.
• Electromagnetic solenoid valve for water 24 V. Designed to shut off/open the water flow.

DIY float for a water tank

At home, sensors of this type allow you to automate processes such as:

• monitoring the liquid level in the supply tank;
• pumping groundwater from the cellar;
• turning off the pump when the level in the well falls below the permissible level, and some others.

Operating principle of a float sensor

An object is placed in the liquid and does not sink in it. This could be a piece of wood or foam, a hollow sealed sphere made of plastic or metal, and much more. When the liquid level changes, this object will rise or fall with it. If the float is connected to the actuator, it will act as a water level sensor in the tank.

Equipment classification

Float sensors can independently monitor the liquid level or send a signal to the control circuit. According to this principle, they can be divided into two large groups: mechanical and electrical.

Mechanical devices

Mechanical valves include a wide variety of float valves for the water level in the tank.

The principle of their operation is that the float is connected to a lever; when the liquid level changes, the float moves this lever up or down, and it, in turn, acts on the valve, which shuts off (opens) the water supply.

Such valves can be seen in toilet flush tanks. They are very convenient to use where you need to constantly add water from the central water supply system.

Mechanical sensors have a number of advantages:

• simplicity of design;
• compactness;
• safety;
• autonomy - do not require any sources of electricity;
• reliability;
• cheapness;
• ease of installation and configuration.

But these sensors have one significant drawback: they can control only one (upper) level, which depends on the installation location, and regulate it, if possible, then within very small limits. On sale, such a valve may be called a “float valve for containers.”

Electrical sensors

An electric liquid level sensor (float) differs from a mechanical one in that it itself does not shut off the water.

The float, moving when the amount of liquid changes, affects the electrical contacts that are included in the control circuit. Based on these signals, the automatic control system makes a decision on the need for certain actions.

In the simplest case, such a sensor has a float. This float acts on the contact through which the pump is turned on.

Reed switches are most often used as contacts. A reed switch is a sealed glass bulb with contacts inside. Switching of these contacts occurs under the influence of a magnetic field.

Reed switches are miniature in size and can be easily placed inside a thin tube made of non-magnetic material (plastic, aluminum). A float with a magnet moves freely along the tube under the influence of liquid, and when it approaches, the contacts are activated.

This entire system is installed vertically in the tank. By changing the position of the reed switch inside the tube, you can adjust the moment the automation operates.

If you need to monitor the upper level in the tank, then the sensor is installed at the top. As soon as the level drops below the set level, the contact closes and the pump turns on. The water will begin to increase, and when the water level reaches the upper limit, the float will return to its original state and the pump will turn off.

However, in practice such a scheme cannot be used. The fact is that the sensor is triggered by the slightest change in the level, after which the pump turns on, the level rises, and the pump turns off.

If the water flow from the tank is less than the supply, a situation arises when the pump constantly turns on and off, and it quickly overheats and fails.

Therefore, water level sensors for pump control work differently. There are at least two contacts in the container. One is responsible for the upper level; it turns off the pump. The second determines the position of the lower level, upon reaching which the pump turns on.

If the difference is more than a meter, two separate sensors are used, installed at the required heights.

Despite their more complex design and the need for a control circuit, electric float sensors allow fully automated liquid level control.

If you connect light bulbs through such sensors, they can be used to visually monitor the amount of liquid in the tank.

Purpose and principle of operation

When water, oil or fuel mixture is consumed, the float lowers , with a downward thrust, and the lever stops pressing on the piston. This in turn leads to the stop cap. Under water pressure, the piston moves back and liquid flows into the reservoir until the pressure is restored.

Using the device, the following goals are achieved:

• Maintaining a given water level between the upper and lower limits.
• Maintaining a constant specified volume of liquid in the container.

The modern models produced are high-quality and silent, regardless of the scope of application - at home or for professional needs .

Valve modifications are different:

• designs with flexible adjustment of the required level;
• models for foam surfaces;
• devices for containers with stirring;
• steel.

The latter type is necessary when working with increased hygiene conditions or in aggressive environments. At the same time, it is undemanding to control, operates stably, is easy to clean and has a well-thought-out design with different connection methods.

Kinds

There are two main types of products:

• mechanical;
• electric.

A mechanical water valve is often used in everyday life, for example, it is a float in a toilet flush tank.

The second type performs the functions of a signaling device and is used to turn on or off electric pumps when the level of the liquid medium changes. It is optimal to use it for frequent consumption in a small container. A float valve for water tanks can be used in conjunction with a solenoid valve to keep running automatically and prevent it from idling without water.

Features of choosing a device

The design of the float provides for different installation methods:

• Inside in container
• Outside on the container
• Inside the pipeline.

In this case, the valves can close or open when or other liquid medium in the container decreases

The choice of valve is determined by three parameters:

• pressure drop;
• flow based on maximum level;
• ambient temperature.

Possible mechanism malfunctions

Despite the simplicity of the device, breakdowns of individual components of the mechanism are possible. Evidence of a malfunction is that:

1. Liquid stops flowing into the tank.
2. The liquid flows, but it does not stop, which leads to overflow.
3. Liquid flows, but extremely slowly.

All these signals indicate that the membrane has failed or the water inlet valve is clogged.

It is also possible that the seal of the amendment itself is broken, and water is poured inside, preventing it from floating to the surface. In this case, repairing the mechanism does not make sense and the entire structure must be replaced.