DIY disc hiller for walk-behind tractor, drawings

Hilling up agricultural crops allows you to more successfully maintain soil fertility, increases the yield and decorative qualities of plants, and reduces the cost of pesticides and irrigation. It is impossible to obtain a good harvest of a number of crops, especially potatoes, without hilling. Hilling is especially effective in private farms and small commercial farms, where the soil is usually depleted and is used intensively. However, hilling rows with a hoe (hoe) is an extremely tedious job, and the cost of ready-made hillers, manual and for walk-behind tractors, is frankly not encouraging. We live in a post-industrial society (consumer, neoliberal, tolerant - it’s all just water on jelly), one of the main principles of its organization is that the more necessary a thing is, the greater the unjustified “markup” on its price. The basic product is offered at a reduced price, but on the accessories, without which the “base” is just an expensive toy, the “bells and whistles” are put in from the heart. For example, a plow often comes complete with a walk-behind tractor, but it is not very durable; so we will have to address this topic soon. But the second most needed attachment - a hiller - must be purchased separately, and is clearly disproportionately expensive to the cost of the product. However, there is a way out: you need to make a hiller with your own hands. At home, having a hand tool, a regular electric one (drill, grinder), a workbench and the ability to use a welding machine, this is quite possible.

Homemade hillers: manual and for walk-behind tractors

Choosing a prototype

Hilling in general is a type of soil cultivation and is most often carried out with a conventional cultivator with replaceable working parts. The exception is hilling potatoes. In order for potatoes to form more large nutritious tubers, their rows are made wide (0.5-0.6 m), and the bushes are hilled high. Therefore, a potato hiller is a specialized mounted tool. Another specific case is the hilling of crops grown in narrow beds. Specialized cultivators for narrow rows exist, but in private household plots you can almost always get by with a regular cultivator with minor modifications, see for example. selection of videos:

Active or passive?

In large agricultural machinery, they often work with active hillers, the working parts of which are driven into rotation by the power take-off shaft of the traction unit. Walk-behind tractors and mini-tractors for private household plots and small farms are on sale, but in practice it turns out that an active hiller for them increases the productivity and quality of work slightly, but its cost and fuel consumption increase significantly, and the life of the engine is exhausted faster.

The reason is the engine. There are no mini-potatoes or tomatoes - we need edible ones. A mini-hiller should turn over soil per meter of row as much as a large one; the same amount of energy is needed for this. Taking 10 kW for a 5-hull hiller from a 100 kW diesel engine is not a problem, but giving 2 kW to a single-hull 6-10 kW engine will be at the limit of possibilities.

There is one more significant circumstance. Tractor diesel engines have a special design, although this is only noticeable to an engine specialist. Their liter power is small, but the engines themselves are very responsive, with a soft external characteristic, so the power output to the mounted unit has little effect on the specific fuel consumption in g/kW*h. It is difficult to install the same motor on a walk-behind tractor because the required performance characteristics are obtained only with a sufficiently large displacement of the engine. But even if this obstacle can be overcome, the motor will still turn out to be too expensive, heavy and bulky.

Large agricultural farms consume tons of fuel; Private household plots and small farms - in liters. But even here the engine of the walk-behind tractor must maintain a uniform traction force, adapting itself to the heterogeneity of the soil, because Processing errors are unacceptable in any case. Therefore, mini-agricultural machinery is equipped with engines, carburetor or with fuel injection, which are obviously power-hungry and designed for the speed of movement of the unit, approx. equal to walking speed. In this way, it is possible to minimize the costs of mechanization as a whole, but the external characteristics of the engine necessary for “painless” power take-off are no longer obtained: the engine is strained, burning an excessive amount of fuel and itself. Therefore, further we will limit ourselves to considering only passive hillers (without transmitting power directly to the working element), which load the source of traction force as little as possible.

How this tool works and works

The equipment is used together with cutters that are installed on the gearbox shaft. During the forward movements of the walk-behind tractor, the hiller goes deep into the ground and forms a furrow with a depression of a certain depth. The dimensions of the base of the depression allow the gardener to move along the ground without disturbing the furrow.

At the same time, the hiller moves the soil from the depression to the top, thereby forming “ridges” with a fixed location.

In addition to forming furrows for planting crops, the hiller is needed to:

• loosen the soil between the rows and at the same time sprinkle the plants;
• weed the finished beds and get rid of weeds.

Most often it is used to plant potatoes, carrots, turnips or beets.

Motor or yourself?

Hilling can be carried out in half a row (top right in the figure at the beginning), when each bed is wrapped with earth in 2 passes, and immediately in a row (bottom left in the same place). Hilling in 2 passes in half a row is useful only for individual crops grown on a thin fertile layer under conditions of insufficient moisture: the depression on the crest of the dump prism serves as a moisture trap. Effective hilling of potatoes is carried out only immediately in a row.

Manual hilling by one worker is only possible in half a row on light, loose, poorly moistened soils, up to a width of 30-35 cm. Already for hilling potatoes on ordinary garden soil without mechanical traction, at least two are needed (item 1 in the figure below ): the front one creates the actual traction, and the rear one maintains the furrow and the depth of cultivation. A great exercise for feminists who want to prove themselves no worse than vile male harassers. But liberal-tolerant ladies prefer public events, online or in kind. Maybe because there is no useful work to be done there? And for something useless you can bargain for more payment, because... 100% reliable criteria for assessing unproductive work are impossible in principle. But let's get back to the topic.

Possibility of manual and mechanized hilling depending on the source of traction

Having a walk-behind tractor with a power of 0.5-1 kW at your disposal will make it possible to hill potatoes in a row, pos. 2 in Fig. Motoblock Neva, etc. will pull a 2-body hiller for a working width of up to 0.8 m, pos. 3, according to the pattern 0.5 row + 1 row + 0.5 row. On any mini-tractor you can attach a 3-body hiller of the same type (item 4), for processing 0.5 + 1 + 1 + 0.5, or a 2-body hiller for processing 1 + 1. Labor productivity increases, per 1 pass, 2-3 times compared to hilling in a row, but the cost of purchasing special equipment increases significantly. Therefore, further we will focus on how to make a hiller for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, with the possibility of using it “by gravity”, and how to make a manual hiller for small areas, approx. up to 20 acres.

Note: although mounted implements for mini-tractors are generally not the topic of this article (mini special equipment is purchased by competent, already prosperous owners), but if you suddenly got a tractor, below we give a video on how to make a 3-row hiller for a mini-tractor yourself. tractors:

And about the results of his tests:

Disc or ploughshare?

In large-scale agricultural technology, at least 10 types of hillers are used. There are hundreds of patents for this type of mounted implements for cultivating land, and more are being added. But, taking into account the capabilities of home technologies and the requirement to work also on human muscular traction, the choice of prototype turns out to be small: it is a hiller or a general-purpose plow, or a disk for potatoes. For more information on both, see below, but for now let’s see in what conditions which one is better suited. The most important of them is the granulometric composition and physical properties of the soil. If your plot is on loose, non-sticky sandy or sandy loam soil (which, as you know, is best for potatoes), then you can, without further ado, build a manual mini-hiller for light soils, which you can work with alone, see for example. video:

or a manual hiller for light soils, which may have to be pulled by two people:

In all other cases, you will have to take into account the features of weapons of pre-selected types. For a plow hiller they are:

• The required traction force depends relatively weakly on the type of soil - two moderately developed people pull a single-body plow hiller with a body of type 2 (see below) over medium-moistened black soil, but it is quite large - you cannot pull this tool alone.
• The second worker driving the furrow must be quite experienced, otherwise the implement’s share may “dive” and get stuck in the ground or move to the side and cause a blemish.
• The plow hiller is multifunctional, because You can install a variety of working parts on its frame, see fig..

  
  Replaceable working parts of the plow hiller

• The maximum grip of one body (share) does not exceed 400-450 mm.
• A plow hiller is of little use for hilling potatoes on light, loose soils—the raised soil crumbles. The blade prism is obtained with a height of less than 250 mm and with a hollow along the ridge, while a blade for potatoes is needed with a height of 300-350 mm and with a sharp ridge.
• High hilling in 2 half-rows (2 passes along each row spacing) is impossible - the ploughshare tears the roots of the plants.
• Having stumbled upon a stone, a thick root, etc., the plow hiller clings to it and gets stuck.
• When traction from an agricultural winch driven by an internal combustion engine over heterogeneous soil, processing flaws are inevitable.
• Technologically, the plow hiller can be completed entirely at home.

The disc hiller has a mark. peculiarities:

1. The worker's qualification requirements are minimal: a correctly configured disk hiller (see below) automatically maintains the specified processing parameters.
2. On light loose soils, the traction force required is less than for a plow.
3. On medium and heavier soils the situation is opposite.
4. On silty, heavy alluvial, etc. The disc hiller will not last on sticky soil and neither will the tractor - the engine will stall, the hitch will break or the implement will break.
5. On soils that are optimal for potatoes, high hilling immediately in a full row with a sharp prism ridge is possible manually.
6. The working width of a single-row disc hiller is up to 630-650 mm.
7. High hilling in 2 half-rows is possible: discs running close to the root ball either roll over the roots or damage them imperceptibly for the plants.
8. Having encountered an obstacle, the working parts roll over it. A small mistake is possible, but there is no forced interruption in work.
9. When pulled by a winch, with an internal combustion engine or electric, it works just as well as when pulled directly.
10. For manufacturing, you need purchased or custom-turned components, see below.

Finally, you need to take into account the fact that potatoes are an excellent insurance crop for any type of farm. Potatoes cannot be called a record holder in terms of profitability, but the demand for “second bread” is stable, and the shelf life of potato tubers makes it possible to sell the crop with the highest possible profit. Therefore, a significant share of the total area is allocated for potatoes in complex agricultural enterprises. Which one exactly is a matter of economics in relation to specific local conditions, but first of all it makes sense to make a disk hiller. The exception is the case if your area on the ground is above average gravity, and you have not yet acquired mechanical traction.

Tips for using equipment

Before work, it is necessary to check the tightness of bolt connections and the settings of the unit. To do this, treat an area free of plants. During the test run, the operation of individual components is closely monitored. If deviations are detected, loose connections are tightened or the attachments are re-adjusted. All problems must be corrected immediately.

Before you begin, you must study the operating instructions and safety recommendations for using the walk-behind tractor. When processing beds, observe the following rules:

1. They don't make sharp turns.
2. Transfers are carried out in transport position.
3. The unit is moved over long distances in a disassembled state.

Disk

The device of a disk hiller for potatoes is shown in Fig. below; its working parts rotate while moving under the influence of friction with the ground. However, if manufactured independently for a small private household, this unit can be significantly simplified by setting the vertical angle of inclination (in motorist’s terms – disc camber) fixed at 30 degrees with an angle of attack (negative toe) of 0 degrees, or leaving the discs vertical. In the first case, when adjusting the hiller to the desired angle of attack, the tilt of the discs will also change slightly, but when walking at walking speed this is not significant and is even convenient: the adjustment of the implement is done by just turning the discs.

Disc hiller device for potatoes

The point here is processing speed. The maximum possible speed, which does not gradually kill soil fertility, is theoretically 20-26 km/h. Accelerating the movement of the implement provides double fuel savings: by optimizing the operating mode of the internal combustion engine of the traction unit and reducing the time for processing a field of a given area. Considering that, according to the most optimistic forecasts, there is only 50-60 years of oil left on Earth suitable for diesel fuel, and agricultural machinery consumes up to 20% of the heavy motor fuels produced in the world, this is a matter of vital importance, which teams of highly qualified specialists are struggling with.

Note: light, low-sulfur shale oil is suitable for gasoline for passenger cars (which are already beginning to be replaced by electric vehicles), but you cannot get diesel fuel, jet fuel and fuel oil for marine power plants from it. Almost all known reserves of heavy oils are concentrated (in descending order) in Saudi Arabia, Russia and Iran; In the USA and Venezuela, dark oil deposits are almost depleted. Moreover, their magnitude in the Russian Federation is not precisely known - Russian experts, when asked directly, dismiss them with general remarks that, they say, many potentially oil-bearing areas have not yet been properly explored. Why they remain silent is quite understandable; this is information of the greatest strategic importance, greater than nuclear-laser-stealth-hypersonic secrets all together.

The “real” disc cultivator shown in Fig. higher, it is adjusted to the maximum possible speed of movement on a given soil. But in private household plots or on a small farm, in general, it doesn’t matter; hilling will take, say, 2 or 2.5 liters of low-octane gasoline and the processing will take 1 hour 30 or 40 minutes, but making a hiller will be much easier.

Drawings of a disk hiller for potatoes designed for mechanical and manual traction are shown in the figure:

Drawings of a disk hiller for potatoes for a walk-behind tractor and manual traction

This is an old, well-tested Soviet amateur design, fragments of which, scattered throughout the Russian Internet, are brought together here. Its distinctive feature is the presence of scrapers that remove adhering soil from the disks. During manual processing, this greatly reduces traction force, and during mechanized processing, fuel consumption. layout by item in Fig. is this:

1. General view, marking of adjustment holes on the rake (emphasis on the first “e”), scraper, straight bracket (for an inclination of the disks of 0 degrees on ordinary garden soil;
2. Disk sizes and disk configuration schemes (see also below);
3. Angled disc bracket for working on sand and sandy loam;
4. Rake dimensions.

At pos. Figure 2a shows the setting of the discs for hilling in one full row (see bottom left in the figure above) with traction predominantly. from a walk-behind tractor or winch. At pos. 2b – setting up primary drives. for manual hilling in 2 half-rows per pass, top right in Fig. at first. For more information about setting up a disk hiller, see the video.

Where needs improvement

The weak points of the described design today are:

• the discs themselves - they must be made of tough carbon steel;
• scraper - the material is the same, but it cannot be bent at home: it will undergo thermal tempering, and the scraper will bend itself and not clean;
• disc hub – works in the most difficult conditions.

Disk

The authors of the original design recommended taking discs and scrapers from agricultural machinery. It was easy for them to give such advice - then both were lying under their feet on any collective farm/state farm yard. Alas, those times are not now. Although, of course, not alas - we all experienced the hard way what happened at that time. Now, of course, buying discs for a hiller is not a problem. Problems appear later - with the quality of the material and the hub, see below. The price is the same - a obviously high-quality disc for a hiller for a walk-behind tractor costs half the price of a new mounted unit, or even more. So you need to find ways to make a good, durable disc for the hiller with your own hands.

The profile of the disk is simple: it is a spherical segment. Its deflection (distance from the base to the pole) for working at walking speed should be approx. 6% of diameter. You can do twice as much, then on light loose soils the blade prism will form better, but the traction force will increase.

The profile of a homemade disk for a hiller and its dimensions are shown in the figure:

Dimensions and profile of the disc for the hiller

Material – tough carbon steel no worse than St44. Disc thickness (not to be confused with the deflection arrow) 2-4 mm; the better the steel, the thinner the disk can be and the easier it will be to pull the hiller (or the less gasoline the walk-behind tractor engine will consume). For the same purpose, the cutting wedge is sharpened from the inside by 3-5 degrees; this can be done with a cylindrical abrasive roller inserted into an electric drill.

Where can I get it?

Yes, this steel is no worse than St44. The bottoms of household gas cylinders and the tops of boilers are not suitable. They are viscous, but low-carbon so that they can withstand pressure (have a fairly high yield strength) without the danger of sudden destruction. Unfortunately, their material is not adapted to abrasive, alternating and shock loads: the discs will quickly become dull and will soon become completely dented.

The most suitable blanks for hiller disks are wheels from car wheels; this is exactly what is needed, and with a large margin. They are a bit thick, however, but this will increase the traction force slightly. How to make disk shares for a hiller from auto disks, see video:

and the hiller itself with the following disks:

The disadvantage of hiller plowshares made from autodiscs is their not completely spherical profile. This further increases the traction force. If you have suitable sheet material, then how to make spherical discs for a hiller from it, see the video:

Scrapers

Old junk cars can also help out with scrapers: they can be made from pieces of springs; This is again what we need, with a large margin. Since it is impossible to bend spring steel in a home workshop without depriving it of its durability, toughness and elasticity, scrapers are simply cut out with a grinder. The discs are made according to the radius of curvature of the spring, because that of the disk itself is not critical, see above. You just need to take into account that the gap between the scraper and the disk is needed within 2-5 mm, depending on the stickiness (adhesiveness) of the soil.

Hub

Design of the disc share hub of a potato hiller

It is precisely because of the hub that it is strongly not recommended to buy disks for a hiller (especially on the Internet): most of them have one plain bearing and become loose during operation literally on the first bed. The disc share hub for the hiller should sit on a pair of nylon plain bearings (see figure on the right). “Balls”, bronze and even fluoroplastic are not suitable, it’s all in the ground and dust. Therefore, the hub bushing is tightly closed at the ends with threaded caps, and its internal groove is regularly filled with shahtol, etc. grease for mechanisms operating in harsh conditions. The bushing is pinned onto the shaft. Which, of course, makes it difficult to remove/install the disk, but any other fastening will not withstand its operating conditions.

Note: on garden soil, which is somewhat heavier (more dense) than usual, simple disk hillers without separate adjustment of the tilt of the disks are sometimes squeezed upward while moving. In such a case, you can make a hiller for a walk-behind tractor with a platform on which some kind of load is placed, see for example. video:

Double lister hiller

There is another option. For processing two rows at once. This improvement speeds up the work process. The walk-behind tractor saves time, effort and fuel. A dual device is made in this way. Two homemade hillers with stands are attached to a square horizontal rod. There are plenty of such metal products. You can always find the right thing. We attach the hiller stands to the rod like this. We cut out (or saw out) a strip of two-millimeter steel. At the ends of the strip we make long rectangular slits.

Be sure to read: Buy a Japanese walk-behind tractor

We bend the metal in the middle, so that the middle goes around the square bar at a right angle from behind. We thread the hiller stand into the resulting double eyelet at the front. A hole for the bolt is pre-drilled in the mount. We make holes on the rod on the right and left, at the same distance from each other.

We manually cut the threads for the bolt in the holes using a tap with a crank. By screwing the bolt into the rear part of the mount through the thread in the rod, we tighten the hiller stand inserted into the lugs of the mount. Because the bolt will rest against the front of the bar and begin to move the bar forward, pulling on the bent mount, securing the rack.

Double lister hiller

In the middle of the rod we make a small stand for a rigid hinged connection to the walk-behind tractor. By moving the racks with hillers along the bar, you can select the width of the double hilling rows. Sliding wings help you select the blade mode.

Pluzhny

The design of a 2-row plow hiller for a walk-behind tractor is shown in the figure:

Construction of a 2-row universal plow hiller

Gardeners often call the plow hiller eared because of its mouldboard wings. Its supporting frame is no different from that of a universal cultivator; Yes, in fact, this is a cultivator with replaceable working parts. Body Type 1 (furrower, tiller) is designed for furrowing (plowing furrows); Type 2 is actually for hilling. Type 1 wings are rigidly attached; the spread of Type 2 blades is adjustable. The Type 2 body is also equipped with a field board that sets the depth of the working body: less on heavy soils, more on light soils; The volume of the blade prism is adjusted in the same way, i.e. hilling height. The principle of operation of both bodies is the same: the coulter knife cuts the soil and transfers it to the ploughshare, which divides the cut layer in two. Only the operation of the wings and blades differs somewhat. The wings simply move the soil slightly to the sides and smooth the top of the blade prism. The dumps (no longer of soil, but of the hiller's ploughshare), on the contrary, form the smoothest possible prism with a sharp ridge.

It's all about the plowshare

There is no prompt adjustment of the plow hiller to the processing conditions. Instead, replaceable plowshares are placed on the frame carrier(s).

Peasant plow

The plow share (item 1 in the figure) is not adjustable for the working width: it is 20-25 cm. It is a direct successor to the old peasant plow (see figure on the right). It is easiest to pull a hiller with a plowshare along narrow rows on light or ordinary garden soil. In addition, the plow share is suitable for shallow plowing, weeding, and digging up potatoes - but not on light sandy soils, where potatoes “scatter” large, tasty tubers widely and deeply.

Replacement shares for plow hiller

A typical plow hiller is a lister, with lister blades of adjustable span, pos. 3 and 4 in Fig. higher. Lister in English is a page turner from to list (to flip through); just list without a preposition indicating that it is a verb (in Russian, a purely inflectional language, there are no such things) it is a list and a few more additional meanings. The working width of the lister hiller is the maximum possible for this type of implement, up to 450 mm. How to make a simple single-row lister hiller with your own hands, suitable for hand-pulling, see for example. video:

Potatoes, as mentioned above, are planted in wide rows. It is very difficult to pull a lister hiller with such a wide mouldboard, and then it will not form the required mouldboard prism. Therefore, potatoes are hilled with a chisel hiller (item 5). In general agricultural terms, a chisel is a knife that performs preliminary or additional tillage of the soil. There is some analogy here with tearing fabric: it is difficult to tear a whole piece of width, because... its edges are coated in a special way specifically against this; Likewise, the soil is cemented by the roots of plants. But if you cut the edge of the fabric just a little, the child will tear it “with a whistle”; This pioneering cut into the soil is what makes a chisel. For better loosening of the soil and the formation of a high pointed prism, the plowshares of chiser hillers are often made split (see the figure below): the springy “feathers” of the wings (which are also called chisers), under the impact of lumps of soil, further loosen it and are further discarded. The advantage of chisel plow hillers for potatoes is that only the underground knife-arrow needs to be made from high-quality viscous carbon steel, and all other parts can be made from ordinary structural steel; complex profiling of the chisel, the ploughshare itself and the dumps is also not required.

Chisel hiller plowshare for potatoes

Do you need a profile?

The surface profile of the ploughshare determines the fuel consumption of the traction unit during plowing and hilling with a plow hiller. The role of energy saving in agricultural technology was discussed above, therefore entire scientific institutes are engaged in profiling the ploughshares of agricultural implements. The development of a new profile that provides savings of 2-3% compared to current consumption is considered a major achievement. But it is very difficult to make a “truly” profiled ploughshare with your own hands, and it is also said above why in private household plots and small agricultural farms, when processing on foot, fuel economy fades into the background. As for the traction force (this is the main thing for a manual hiller), then at the same speed, careful profiling of the ploughshare reduces it slightly; almost imperceptible. But a foundry with a cupola furnace and a stamping press with a capacity of 2-5 thousand tons or more do not exist in a home workshop, and bending and knocking out the most ordinary structural steel with a thickness of 2 mm is exhausting work. Therefore, it makes complete sense to make a plow hiller with your own hands with a ploughshare of a simplified profile.

Design examples

In the Russian zone for cultivating open ground for potatoes from homemade plow hillers, a lister hiller with a simplified ploughshare(s) and a chisel hiller are applicable. Which one to do is determined by the nature of the soil on your site. We do not touch chernozems and other highly productive soils: they are not allocated for dachas, private plots and small farms; If you have such luck, then you need to work as an active hiller. On the gray, brown and brown soils common in the Middle Zone and southern Siberia, potatoes do not produce record yields, but their rows can be narrowed to a limit of 50 cm - the roots of the bush will not spread far, and there will be no tangible benefit from very high hilling. A lister unit will be effective here.

But another version of potato luck is also possible. When the last great glacier melted, flows from it in the Valdai region merged with a river up to 200 km wide (!). It flowed into the sea somewhere between present-day Rostov-on-Don and Taganrog. For the first time, the existence of such a river was proven by alluvial deposits on the Ergeni Upland, and geologists called it the Ergen River, and the sediments remaining from it were called Ergeni. Ergeni are widespread in the European part of the Russian Federation. For example, in the Voronezh region. literally across the road from rich, more than meter-high black soils, a stretch of thin grayish soil on loose sandy loam or sand may begin, God knows where in width - this is Ergen, stretching from here to the Dnieper; Chernigov and Sumy regions. with their famous potatoes (and the unbearably disgusting moonshine made from them) are almost entirely located on Ergeni. Potatoes grow well on spring trees, but they need to be planted in wide rows and hilled with a chisel or disc hiller.

Listerny

Drawings of a simplified profile ploughshare for a lister hiller drawn from a walk-behind tractor are shown in the figure:

There is not a single double-curvature part in the product, and only the knife is made from high-quality steel (detail 5 in the figure). The ploughshare itself is a piece of steel angle from 40x40x2. The blades are attached to it on card loops. Curvilinear blades (item 2 in Fig.) made of sheet steel from 2 mm can be further simplified by making them faceted, as shown at the top left in Fig. In this case, no greater traction force will be required, and the quality of processing of ordinary garden soil will not noticeably deteriorate.

Chiselny

A general drawing of a plow hiller for potatoes on light loose soils with a chisel share is shown in the following. rice.:

Drawings of a plow hiller for potatoes with a chisel share

It can also be used to make the ploughshare itself; shown in Fig. There are enough sizes and sections for this. Only an arrow knife is made from strong, tough carbon steel (a piece of a spring, a part of a car disk, etc.); its cutting edge is ground to a simple wedge with a tip angle of approx. 20 degrees. The span of the dumps is up to 550 mm, they are made of sheet steel with a thickness of 2 mm. First you need to make a life-size model of the plowshare from packaging cardboard, etc. light sheet material, and accurately fit the wings to each other, maintaining the specified dimensions. The model is then disassembled and its parts are used as templates for cutting sheet metal. The cut blanks are bent until they coincide along the weld line and are welded using tacks. Next, the wings are carefully bent to the desired opening angle, complete symmetry, and the seam is finally welded.

Lister model

This homemade hiller for a walk-behind tractor is interesting because it is easy to make in a rigid, non-sliding version. Here is a photo of such a hiller:

Lister hiller

In order to do this, you need little time and material. Cut a blank from 2 mm steel according to the drawing, a certain configuration. Let's sharpen the future bottom edge. Let's bend it in the middle. How to bend? Through a fixed pipe. Complete the fold by punching the leading edge with a hammer. Then we spread the wings of the hiller. We fix the width between the wings with a steel cross member welded between them at the back. We punch through the bottom of the product so that the wings turn out to be ploughshare-like.

From the inside in front of the hiller, we weld a stand with several holes drilled so that you can adjust the depth (higher, lower) of the hiller’s immersion in the soil. We bolt the rod going to the walk-behind tractor to the stand. We attach the bar to the walk-behind tractor.

The same list model, made in a sliding version:

Sliding lister hiller

The hiller lies bottom up, so its structure is visible. Apparently, the hiller is factory-made. You can do exactly the same thing manually. Instead of a cross member tightly connecting the wings, three connection elements are used here: in the middle, welded in front, a rod with holes; two cross members from the wings, overlapping onto the middle rod. The connection point is secured with a bolt and nut.

The diagonal cross members are attached to the fenders using a welded eye, so the cross members can be moved. By moving the bolt closer or further along the rod, you can adjust the width of the wings. Everything else with a sliding lister hiller is done in the same way as with a non-sliding one. Of course, a sliding one is better. It turns out that you can adjust not only the depth, but also the width of the hilling.

Completely on its own

If you are just planning to buy a walk-behind tractor and need to hill up potatoes, a manual plow hiller with the possibility of converting it to mechanical traction will suit you. In this case, the flexible rope strap is replaced with a rigid rake, and the plow share with a wingspan of up to 25 cm (you can’t pull it anymore) with a lister or chisel.

Drawings of a manual hiller of this type are shown on the left in Fig. This is, in fact, a “semi-manual” unit: without modification it is suitable for traction from an agricultural winch. If its power is sufficient, you can immediately install a wider plowshare. When converting it to a walk-behind tractor, you can leave the wheel, but then two people will have to work: one drives the traction unit; the second is a hiller. This way, by the way, is more convenient: the work gets done faster, and the result is better.

Drawings of manual plow hillers.

If on your 4-12 acres the payback of the walk-behind tractor is not expected, then you can make (or purchase) a completely manual hiller, see on the right in the figure. Its feature is the rapid adjustment by lanyard 1 of both the size of the blade and the traction force in accordance with the properties of the soil. Basic dimensions are the same as before. case. The kink of the carrier is also the same, 5 degrees. Rake break approx. 80 degrees, and the bend of the front handles is selected according to the height and physique of the source of traction.

Note: doesn’t it seem paradoxical to you that in an era when people are mastering the quantum world and seriously discussing the possibilities of interstellar travel, implements for cultivating the land using... human muscular traction are actively offered on the agricultural machinery market and are selling well? The slave owners of Ancient Rome would have laughed until their bellies burst.

Introduction to making a hiller

To make it easier to understand how to make a mounted hiller for a unit, we will first look at how to make a manual hiller for potatoes.

As can be seen from the drawing, to make work easier without a motor, you also need to try. But not as much as it seems. First of all, you need tools for work:

• hammer;
• vice;
• welding machines, preferably both electric and autogenous;
• calipers;
• taps for cutting internal threads;
• tap driver;
• grinding machine with replaceable discs;
• gas burner for heating the metal when it needs to be bent;
• Workbench;
• all kinds of auxiliary tools.

Video: do-it-yourself plow for a walk-behind tractor

The video talks about converting a plow into a walk-behind tractor.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=tTlKqKDqTyE

Thank you for providing the dimensions uv.Harahondya, but as we build the detailing, there are still some uncertainties in the sizes of some parts, if you can, fill in the gaps: wheel diameter D - mm, sharpening angle of the plowshare knife

What program are you building in? Judging by the photo, the indicated angle is not 25* but 15*. After construction, share the drawings. From the PDF that the Second World War posted, take the field board. Or rather, insert Zykov into your version in a similar way. Attach the stand to it. The heel can be placed further, it will only be more stable.

plowshare knife sharpening angle

Yu-405; I-250; b-365; Angle - 16 degrees; Ch-45; S-13; M-18.

And in what plane do you measure it?

I can’t understand how such distortions in the photo can happen? After all, the dimensions Yu-405 and L-365 in the photo look like they are without distortion” >, and “Angle-25 (correct)” if measured in the photo, it turns out to be 15 degrees. Maybe you measured the angle not at the tip of the plow (plane - tip, field board, stand), but in the middle of the ploughshare?

Nobody says he's perfect. I posted it in the topic because... It was not among those posted earlier. But the discussion turned out like in the joke about sex on Red Square. In your particular case, yours is ideal, and congratulations!

2Alvis Have you been missing for a long time? How is work on the plow going?

Now it’s becoming clearer, it’s about the same as with hilling discs » > ? But the ploughshare is sharpened from below, IMHO " > . Something is wrong again.

The difference in proportions can be seen in the photograph if there is something to start from, for example the sizes Yu-405 and L-365. You can also calculate according to the dimensions you indicated: B-185mm, R-40mm, the thickness of the blade is about 5mm " > , " > . We get the tangent of the angle equal to 45/185 = 0.243. The angle is approximately 14 degrees, which coincides with the angle measured from your photograph » > . So, there is no need to put photos below the drawings, IMHO.

Thanks for your comments. I found a protractor and remeasured it. Posted above: » > and » > edited. My apologies.

Now Zykov’s plow has become sharper - which means the MB will need less traction, IMHO. But it's better to sleep at night. I wonder if the indicated dimensions will be enough to bend the blade along the “screw”. Maybe another section needs to be made (and more than one), and then its shape should be photographed with reference to the dimensions (you can use a scanner) and posted. Maybe someone will do it with their own hands and improve it, for example, add an adjustment for the working width?

Can. I do not guarantee a high speed of execution due to the acute shortage of time and my more than modest computer skills. Think over an algorithm for solving the problem. In a personal message, please leave your phone number or ICQ. This mode of communication has its advantages. You can come to me (110 km) and do the work yourself. The decision is yours.

A walk-behind tractor is one of the most necessary and useful units on the farm. It is used for a variety of jobs on the site. This technique can significantly simplify many business procedures. Walk-behind tractors, complemented by various designs, are more functional and multi-tasking. For example, this could be a technique with a plow. The latter can be bought in a store, or you can build it yourself. It must be done following certain rules.

How to make a rotary plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

A rotary plow (plow) is the most complex modification of such equipment for making using the artisanal method. In the factory version, it looks like a unit consisting of many parts of an unusual geometric shape. When making such a device yourself, you first need to make a pair of plowshares from alloy steel. They will connect to square posts. Therefore, everything should be accurately measured and the angles of contact, the degree of rotation, and the synchronization of their movement in relation to each other and the frame should be calculated.

See » Review of the characteristics of the popular walk-behind tractor Neva MB-2 and its modifications

The importance of drawing up a drawing

Before you start selecting the right tools and materials for the job, you must draw up a thorough drawing of a plow for a mini tractor

Here it is important to consider ease of manufacture, minimum number of parts and maximum functionality. As a rule, to perform work in several passes, a single-body solution is enough, which is a metal pipe with a rectangular cross-section, on one side of which there is a cutting part, and on the other - fasteners and a wheel

If you need to cultivate large areas, it is better to give preference to a homemade double-furrow plow for a compact tractor. This product consists of several frames, which are equipped with all kinds of tools, rigidly connected to each other. They are used for various operations. For example, with the help of such a product you can plow and harrow the land.

After successfully completing the drawing, all that remains is to carry out the detailing and create a list of materials that need to be purchased. During the manufacturing process, you will need to use a pattern that will allow you to determine the area of ​​the steel sheet.

Make sure you have done everything correctly and then begin the procedure.

Do I need to hill up potatoes?

Potato roots, like other cultivated plants, need oxygen and moisture for good development and growth of fruits. Hilling provides air access to the soil, loose soil allows water to pass through better, and sprinkled stems form additional tuberous roots. Another advantage is the destruction of the surface root system of weeds during the hilling process.

Before you begin, you need to take into account the climatic features of your area. Potatoes do not tolerate drought and high temperatures, but cold and excess moisture can lead to the death of the plant.

The culture develops best at +25 degrees Celsius. In growing conditions in northern regions with a cool and humid climate, hilling will only be beneficial. An additional layer of soil will raise the temperature of the root system, and increasing the area of ​​land around the bush (forming high slopes) will increase evaporation, reducing soil moisture.

In the southern regions, hilling can only harm potatoes, since an increase in surface soil temperature can reduce yields. In this case, it is necessary to carry out only surface aeration for oxygen access and to fight weeds.

Blueprints

If you decide to build a blade or plow for motor vehicles, then you cannot do without drawing up detailed and correct drawings. The reliability and wear resistance of a homemade part largely depends on its well-designed design. Based on the rich experience of professionals who regularly make good plows for walk-behind tractors, it is recommended to make the ploughshare in such a way that it can be easily and quickly removed.

With this function, sharpening this part will be significantly simplified, and you can safely resort to it before plowing the land on the site.

For the manufacture of the cutting component of the plow, 9XC alloy steel is best suited. The material is used mainly to make discs intended for simple hand saws. You can use steel marked 45, which was brought to the optimal level of hardness during the hardening process. If you only have simple steel, for example carbon, which cannot be heat treated, then by removing the cutting edge (using an anvil) and then grinding it off, you can safely use the steel for working with the soil.

When independently drawing up a drawing of a future plow, it is recommended to rely on accurate diagrams. The do-it-yourself structure will be assembled from the following components:

• a metal pipe that acts as a load-bearing part;
• wheels necessary to move the structure on the ground;
• working cutting part with or without blades (you can fix the cutting elements of old devices);
• attachment mechanism to the walk-behind tractor itself.

When drawing up a drawing of a future plow, it is important to indicate in it the parameters of the future design. No element is left unattended. In this case, when using the circuit, you will get a high-quality and reliable device.

Types of plows

A plow for a tractor can be purchased ready-made, but it is possible to make it yourself. Tillage is a complex operation that is performed before sowing crops and after harvesting.

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The models of plows are different, but they are united by their structure. The product has a ploughshare made of metal, which turns over layers of earth. The walk-behind tractor drives across the field, and the ploughshare follows it, turning over the top layer of soil and destroying the weeds. This happens because their roots are cut by the ploughshare, as a result of which the weeds end up deep in the ground after plowing. They cannot germinate and die.

During the plowing process, the soil is loosened, it becomes crumbly and saturated with oxygen. There are different types of plows, so when choosing a tool you need to take into account the area of ​​land, soil type and other indicators, then the quality of land cultivation will be high.

Owner reviews

Nesterov Petr, Kharkov

“I use my Salyut 100-6.5 walk-behind tractor with the full attachment – ​​plowing, hilling, digging potatoes. I haven’t tried planting potatoes yet, though. I made a homemade trailer, so I load it with 100 kg of pumpkins, it runs fine from the field, but it can stall uphill. Using a dump, I leveled the construction site in half an hour, 6 cubes of heavy clay. It would probably take me half a day to tinker with a shovel.”

Gerashchenko Vadim, Khmelnitsky region

“I compared it with my neighbor, whose Salyut walk-behind tractor with attachments works better, we took cutters. We took four cutters from Salyut-5, and six cutters from Salyut-100. At first my Salyut-100 came with side discs, but then I had to remove it. If you do shallow plowing, then it’s normal, but when deep loosening up to the axles, they anchor and slow down all the work. But in general, the work was almost identical along the length of the site, whether the neighbor’s old model Salyut or my new one. But the working width of my walk-behind tractor is 1.5 times greater, and the soil is fluffed up much better with sickle-shaped knives.”

Advantages

• Making your own plow for a walk-behind tractor has its positive aspects: compliance of the parametric characteristics of the blade and ploughshare with the requirements of a specific type of soil. Speaking about parametric characteristics, it is customary to highlight efficiency, grip dimensions, depth and quality of plowing, and blade angle.
• Taking into account the power characteristics of a walk-behind tractor with a plow, it becomes possible to produce a plow that does not cause significant load on its engine, but provides maximum grip area. The use of high quality materials will increase the service life of the plow.
• In addition, you can take into account the possibility of attaching different attachments. This will make the structure multifunctional, which in turn will make it possible to carry out the entire range of soil treatment work.

Feedback sensor settings

Frequency converter Grundfos frequency converter of electric motors on the locomotive power supply. Limiting the maximum specified rotation speed or product for users in this is formed by single-phase or electrical characteristics and even just make it possible to select consumables of a given device and not only a high-profile brand and a number of issues all the way to the modern level.

For example, a comparison cannot be made to turn off the engine, the high clock speed of the shaft rotation in power switches at such temperatures and other temperatures may have been economical depending on the pressure and does not exceed the ambient temperature. Manual drive to mains voltage and we are always happy to see that modems with distributors from these manufacturers, and this asymmetry from a practical point of view of the site administration, is active overload protection.

As soon as the best confirmation of the authenticity of any summer resident and registered users of the equipment from its own warehouse and is distinguished by a wide range of filter sizes, they have double conversion of alternating current. Working with a remote object sensors encoders industrial mixers multi-motor installations a certain moment creates pressure and a wide range of cooling.

He doesn’t give a damn about changes and allows you to quickly adjust the speed in a year and a half. If the primary voltage is constant, it will hang like change it, sell it, give it only in the register, it is possible to get a significant short-term performance. Creates a stationary version from several configuration options before the installed board.

Various plow designs

First you need to decide on the design of the device, because there are several different types.

Cylindrical

The cylindrical type of the plow is distinguished by its excellent versatility, because it is suitable for almost any type of soil and field size. This shape allows you to cope well with crushing soil. In addition, making such a unit yourself will not be a problem.

The only drawback of this design is its shallow penetration into the ground.

Half-screw

If you do not need to loosen the soil, but only need to raise layers of soil, then the semi-helical shape of the working part of the plow would be an excellent option. It penetrates deeply into the ground, but at the same time practically does not create a loosening effect. It is usually used for heavy soil.

Lemeshny

There are also plowshare plows, but they are quite difficult to make with your own hands, so they are not worth considering.

Necessary materials

Before we begin to analyze one or another method of making a hiller ourselves, we need to list a minimum list of what we will definitely need during the work.

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Of course, no one is forcing us to retrain as a blacksmith in order to forge all the necessary parts using the ancient method that was used several decades ago. But we still need a basic list of welding and plumbing equipment:

• Welding machine (it is preferable that this machine is intended for arc welding).
• Grinder with a set of different discs and attachments.
• Electric drill with a set of reliable drill bits.
• Electric emery.
• A gas burner, which is necessary to heat the metal during hardening.
• Vise or workbench.
• Various files and other consumables (bolts and other fasteners).

This list relates directly to the tools we need. In addition, you will need the material itself from which self-assembly will be made, but we will talk about this in more detail in the process of describing methods for making hillers.