During construction, when working with wooden beams, special attention is paid to the connecting part of the crowns. As practice shows, changes in air temperature and water can change the shape of wood, even when dried according to all the rules. The use of dowels, which tightly fasten the structural elements together, will help to avoid this. But how can you make the necessary holes?
A screw drill and a low-speed drill are the main tools when drilling holes for frames Source techfact.ru
Drilling the ends for confirmations (with a router?)
Until now, I drilled into crafts by eye, for screws in chipboard, then used a sander to finish the edges. Now I’m trying to assemble a chest of drawers from a furniture panel, so there will already be confirmations (themselves thicker than a screw), and the thickness of the board = 16mm. Need precision, easy to squint.
I understand that there are conductors like: https://www.master-drel.ru/katalog/pr. or-kwb-7580-00 The toad immediately howled, and the final quality is unclear (can the drill still go away?). I heard a ringing sound that it was possible to drill smoothly with a milling cutter - but how? And how to align the holes in the plate?
I feel like only corner clamps will help, is that true?
Conductor for assembling furniture with your own hands: buy or make
Hello dear friends, lovers of assembling and making furniture with your own hands! Today we have a quite interesting and useful topic for many. After all, we will be talking about a conductor for assembling furniture.
Such a device can be bought without any problems on Aliexpress, purchased at Leroy Merlin or any specialized store. But reading reviews and talking on furniture forums, I noticed that many, instead of buying a jig, make it with their own hands.
There are various drawings available online; you can easily find a universal template and use it to create your own device with your own hands. We will definitely talk about this today. But first, I propose to delve into the essence of the device, understand the varieties and answer a few basic questions.
What it is
In talking about what tools a furniture maker needs, I missed such an important point as a conductor. I can’t say that this is an essential element, but without it, solving some problems is much easier and faster.
Furniture jigs are fairly simple mechanical devices. They are needed in order to simplify and speed up the process of drilling various holes.
Re: Drilling ends for confirmations (with a router?)
The conductor is made simply. we take either a square steel pipe 20*20 or 20*40. The main thing is that the walls are thicker. Next, we mark holes on this jig, at a distance of 8 mm from the edge (half the thickness of the chipboard sheet). We drill on a machine to obtain maximum perpendicularity, in a plane of 20mm. Now everything is simple, we put the chipboard on the table, and put the conductor in front of the chipboard. The conductor can be pressed to the table with clamps. Aligning the edge of the chipboard with the edge of the jig, we secure the chipboard. And we drill through the jig with a drill. We place the drill in the drill so deep that it can drill all the way along the jig. I made a second jig from a duralumin corner for drilling in the plane of the chipboard. I drilled it through the first jig. The corner was pressed against the sheet, perpendicularity was ensured by a square. Then I drilled to a third of the depth with a hand drill. Then, without a jig, I drilled the resulting holes with a working diameter.
Everything went together with a bang without any bugs (the tricky kitchen cabinet required about 60 screws). At the same time, I didn’t make markings for the ends at all, but for the plane it was only necessary to accurately set the offset once per row of holes. The marking of the offset was done like this: I roughly applied masking tape along the tape measure, then on the tape exactly with a pencil all the marking lines. Then just place the square exactly along the line and press it, all actions are grouped, the speed is maximum.
Major manufacturers of low-speed drills
The quality of the instrument depends on the reputation of the manufacturer. Experienced craftsmen identify a number of models that deserve attention.
Makita
A brand from Japan, specializing in the production of electric tools, has gained worldwide trust due to the quality of its products. Among the variety of drills from this company, the unit model 6300-4 is popular. The specimen is suitable for high-quality work by experienced craftsmen. The price is within 14.5 thousand rubles. The tool allows you to perform all popular tasks, including preparing solutions.
Appearance of the Makita 6300-4 drill Source Makita-profi.ru
Felisatti
The Italian manufacturer, whose brand produces everything needed for construction work, also produces low-speed drills. The professionals appreciated the professionalism of the Italians, choosing the DMF23/1150VSE device among popular models.
Metabo
Among countries producing power tools, Germany ranks high, distinguished by reliable and high-quality products. Metabo produces drills that any DIYer will appreciate. However, the high cost of the devices deters non-professional construction workers from purchasing them. Thus, the price of the common B32/3 drill model is 59 thousand rubles. Not everyone can afford to work with an expensive tool.
Russia
If, when choosing a manufacturer, the question is about saving money, you should pay attention to Russian brands. The efficiency of Interskol or ZUBR tools is at the level of foreign competitors. The availability of products from domestic companies forces craftsmen to make a choice in their favor.
There are several worthy models on the Russian market, for example, drill Zubr ZDM-1200R Source stroyberi.com.ua
Video description
Dowels: installation.
Circular drill
Masters call this device a ballerina, since the principle of operation of the drill resembles the movements of a dancer. The cutting element consists of a central drill and additional cutters located on a common axis. The position of the cuts can be changed, thereby adjusting the diameter of the future hole. The circular drill set includes a punch intended for marking and a hexagon required for fixing the drills.
The result of drilling using a circular ballerina drill Source Piko-train.ru
A cutting element of this type is chosen in the following situations:
- when it is necessary to drill holes of small depth, the radius of which varies from 15 mm to 65 mm;
- when working with plywood, wood, chipboard, fiberboard and similar materials. Mostly workpieces with a cross section of up to 20 mm or sheet products are processed.
Drilling with a circular element is best done with a low power drill, since there is a high probability of damage to the device.
Tips for vertical drilling
Experienced users recommend adhering to the following guidelines when working with a drill:
- When drilling timber for dowels, a stand should be used to secure the tool. A kind of tripod maintains the vertical position of the drill and makes the carpenter’s work easier.
- To maintain the vertical, the right angle is constantly controlled using a carpenter's square.
- To avoid chipping at the exit of the holes, any wooden block should be placed under the main workpiece.
- When working with a drill, if possible, it is necessary to fix the part with a vice.
- If it is necessary to control the depth of the hole, and the drill or drill bit is not equipped with a built-in limiter, then the required distance is marked directly on the drill using electrical tape. This will help stop the drill in time.
When drilling deep holes in wood, the main thing is to firmly hold the stop handle of the tool Source Multicom.by
Techniques for drilling holes in wood
At the preliminary stage, the surface should be countersinked. The essence of the procedure is to make a small recess according to the dimensions of the head of the fastener at the site of subsequent drilling. Then the main drilling is carried out using equipment of a nominal mounting diameter. If you plan to use dowels, then drilling is carried out without preliminary countersinking. If there is no need to drill through the workpiece, then use a feather drill. It is designed to organize a tenon joint and can be equipped with a built-in drilling depth limiter.
To preserve the structure of the wood when drilling large holes, annular cutters and feather drills are used. Unlike cylindrical drills, they practically do not create chips on a wooden surface.
There are several models of ring drills for small dowels on the market, but they do not have a long service life Source Brigadir52.ru
Drilling with feather drills
Place a feather drill in the intended location and use the drill at low power. The process continues until the master sees the end of the tool from the back of the block. To eliminate chips in the hole area, drilling is then used from the opposite edge. The workpiece is turned over in the desired direction, fixed and drilled, installing the drill in the hole already made.
Re: Drilling ends for confirmations (with a router?)
No conductor can save you from crooked hands. The end-to-end additive is rehearsed on a piece of material if necessary. 5 holes is enough to understand whether this is your activity or not. Conductors, countersinks, typesetting drills for confirmations are complete nonsense for the pros. For confirmations there are 3 diameters of drills: 4.5-5mm (in the end), 6.8-7mm (in the plane), 10mm (countersink the hole for installing the screw head “sunk” if necessary). This applies to chipboard. If you have a furniture panel, then a plug is needed to cover the screw head. That's all.
Threat, conductors use small vehicles without a machine park to speed up work. The whole thrill of the conductor is not that it does not allow the drill to swerve, but that with its help you do not need to make markings.
