Do-it-yourself wooden lining - 3 ways to make it yourself

MesterulManole
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MesterulManole May 14, 2018Specialization: many years of experience in finishing works of residential and office premises, dachas, country cottages, etc. Hobby: cycling in all its forms

After varnishing, homemade lining looks no worse than purchased finishing materials

Wooden lining is a sought-after finishing material with the only drawback: it is expensive. However, the high price is not yet a reason to refuse to use wooden lining, because if you wish, you can make the material for finishing the house yourself. I will tell you how to make lining with your own hands using affordable woodworking equipment.

Manual device from an angle grinder

If you have a grinder on your farm, then you won’t find a better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a saw at home from such a popular tool? Don’t despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of metal corner of a small cross-section, located on both sides of the saw blade. Using bolts and nuts, the corners are connected from the front and back sides with a transverse ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.

It is necessary to put a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for a sliding stop, folded in half, is fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Next, you will have to make a couple of holes for bolts in the gearbox housing of the future circular saw, for which it is disassembled and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow for high-quality cuts, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.

The axial handle, which will be equipped with a grinder grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The shape of the design can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part with which the handle is attached to the gearbox are equipped with holes for fasteners. There is one important point here: the ends cannot be riveted in order to prevent the handle from bending during operation of the circular saw assembled with your own hands. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet it a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. As usual, we adjust the uniformity of the gap with washers.

At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it is connected to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, a second one is screwed. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this device for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how, at home, you can convert an angle grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular saw from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.

Formation of sheathing

The lining is mounted on a pre-prepared sheathing made of wooden blocks and slats attached directly to the wall or ceiling, at a distance of about a meter from each other. Such elements are fastened in a perpendicular position relative to the planned position of the lining; both horizontal and vertical placement of boards is provided.

For uneven walls, a type of fastening is provided, where the sheathing is aligned plumb or level when done:

• attaching hangers to the wall surface, on which planks or bars are installed level;
• driving wedges made of plastic or wood between the sheathing elements and the wall, which is necessary to level the beam.

We suggest you read: Do-it-yourself brick stove repair

When the walls are smooth, the bars can be attached directly to the walls, without prior leveling, using:

• nails that are suitable for wooden surfaces;
• dowels or screws recommended for concrete and brick walls;
• glue, the use of which is intended for those cases where drilling and driving in cannot be used.

Using a hand router for carving

You can significantly simplify the process of wood carving with a hand router. This special electric machine allows you to perform almost all types of artistic carving much faster. The only exceptions are sculpted and notched carvings. A hand-held wood carving router is a specialized tool for wood processing. The main parts of the tool are cutters, heads with cutting parts of different shapes, each of which has its own purpose:

• profiling the edges of wooden parts;
• milling of decorative and technological grooves of various configurations;
• production of unusual parts;
• creation of artistic carved products using a hand milling machine.

Using a router, it is easy to make various elements of wood carving: wooden trim, carved plinths, carved cornices and a wide variety of moldings.

A hand milling machine can be used to produce exclusive custom-carved furniture with great efficiency. Artistic carving with a hand router is most often done with fillet and V-shaped cutters, which allow you to make engraving of the desired length. Disc types of cutters are designed for sawing rectangular grooves.

Block house machine

One of the varieties of lining (by the way, in enormous demand) is a block house. The material imitates rounded logs and is widely used for external and internal decoration of premises. It makes sense to cover houses with a block house, because such lining has a solid appearance, is durable and environmentally friendly, as it is made of natural wood. The panels are characterized by a complex shape, so the elements are connected using the “groove-tenon” principle. Making them manually is difficult and is fraught with “inconsistency” of individual “logs” in the future, so it is advisable to use specialized equipment:

• band sawmill;
• drying chamber;
• lining manufacturing machine.

When processing workpieces on machines, you can perform a number of operations:

• cutting prepared raw materials to the required size;
• surface milling;
• formation of recesses (grooves and tenons).

Options for the location of the lining on the plane of the wall and ceiling

The lining on the plane of the wall (ceiling) can be positioned vertically or horizontally. Traditionally, Euro profile lining is located vertically, and Calm profile lining is horizontal. This is primarily due to the peculiarities of perception of horizontal and vertical lines. Vertical lines, especially emphasized by a wide strip of shadow from window light, due to the difference in the surface of the lining profile on the wall, visually increase the space between the floor and ceiling. The horizontal thin lines of the joint of the “calm” profile linings have no shadow and therefore create the effect of integrity. Traditionally, the ceiling is covered with clapboard in the direction of the light flow - perpendicular to the window.

Manufacturing eurolining on a milling machine

This is more complex work; you will need solid experience working with woodworking machines. We will tell you about the technology, and select the dimensions of the lining and the profiles of the front surfaces yourself, taking into account the availability of tools and personal preferences.

The design of the machine is quite complex. Complete instructions must be included with such equipment.

We see an example of a homemade machine for making lining, its components and details

We see another example of a homemade machine for the production of lining at home

How does eurolining differ from regular lining?

1. The tongue/groove connection is deeper. Due to this, the risk of seams showing through during a significant reduction in the width of the boards is eliminated, and installation of the sheathing is simplified. It is easier to insert hardware for fastening into a deep groove.
2. The reverse side has one or two slots - the wall surfaces can breathe, static forces are reduced when changing the linear dimensions of the lining. It is as a result of strong static forces that the cladding of a house can warp.

Photo - Eurolining category B

As the initial data, we assume that the boards of the required sizes have already been prepared, the material is sorted and folded in the proper place.

Step 1. Install a cutter on the machine to make a groove and a side decorative chamfer, adjust the depth. To do this, release the ruler, place the end of the board against the knife and, moving the ruler closer or further, find the desired position. Fasten the milling head and ruler with great force.

Mills used in the manufacture of lumber

In order to correctly align all the knives on the head, you need to plan a section of the board as a test. Next, place it again on the cutter and, slowly rotating the head in the opposite direction, check that all the knives are working. You can recognize this by the sound; if everything is normal, then the number of minor touches on the board should correspond to the number of cutters. For example, if the head has four knives, but you only felt three touches, then this means that one knife is not working. Find which one and adjust its position. This is quite difficult to do and will take several attempts. Make sure that the spacer wedges of the knives are pressed firmly against the head.

Knives

Several different knives-attachments for a homemade machine for making lining will allow you to create various wood products

Step 2. Attach the top and side clamps, set the desired distance. Such stops greatly facilitate the milling process, improve quality and increase labor safety. Pass all the boards on one side.

Step 3. Replace the cutter with a new one; it should cut the groove and remove the decorative chamfer. There is no need to re-adjust the clamps; the width of all boards is the same and did not change during the first pass.

Step 4. Remove the side cutter and release the ruler and clamps. Install a cutter to make recesses on the inside of the lining. The size and number of grooves do not matter; select them at your discretion.

Manufacturing eurolining on a milling machine

Industrial production technology

Lining - what kind of material is it?

You will need this knowledge in order to independently make the best decisions when making lining at home. The process of industrial production of lining consists of several stages.

1. Making boards. The logs are sawn on band or disk sawmills into edged boards of specified parameters. The thickness of the board is in the range of 15-25 mm, width 100-150 mm. Specific dimensions depend on the type of lining.
2. Drying lumber. The process takes place in chamber drying, which reduces the amount of waste and minimizes the risks of torsion and cracking of boards.
3. Sorting. Lumber is sorted depending on quality. For the manufacture of lining, boards of at least second grade are selected.
4. Manufacturing of lining. The process takes place on a powerful four-sided planer. By selecting various cutters and knives, four planes are processed in one pass, and the desired profile is immediately created on them.

   Lining production line

5. Quality control and product storage.

Warehousing of linings

That’s all the technology is, there is nothing complicated, modern equipment allows you to automate production to the maximum. It is impossible to achieve this at home; you will have to waste much more time making the forcing.

Table. Classes of lining and their description.

Classification of lining

Prices for lining

Lining

Stages of lining production

The process itself begins with drawing straight lines along which the sides of the boards will be sawn in the future. It is recommended to use green or blue pencils, this is necessary so that the lines are clearly visible in case the wood is damp and begins to turn blue. To cut the board, place it on the table top of the machine so that the previously marked lines are straight.

To cut the other side of the board, the machine must be reconfigured. To do this, set the ruler to the required width. It is common practice to use two clamps for fixation during processing. Then the second side of the board is sawed according to the adjusted ruler; when cutting the side without using a ruler, the output will appear sawn under the ruler. Put them in a separate place, we will need them for slats.

For those who are interested in how to determine the width of the slats, the answer is simple; for this, sawn-off lining is installed, which will be used instead of a ruler.

Now let's move on to the production itself. It’s worth noting right away that the process of making lining with your own hands is quite painstaking work. In order for everything to work out correctly and subsequently make you (or your customers) happy, you need to be patient. Otherwise, the finished products will turn out to be of different thicknesses and widths, which means that the appearance of the surface finished with clapboard will be spoiled.

The process of making lining with your own hands will consist of the following stages:

• First of all, we cut the boards into pieces of the required length;
• Next, the workpieces need to be sawn lengthwise to make planks of the required width;
• the next step will be jointing;
• Finally, we make grooves.

To complete the second stage, draw a straight line on the workpiece from one edge. To do this, it is better to use a blue or green pencil; it will be better visible on the surface. Next, using a circular saw, saw off one edge. It is better to process more boards in this way at once, so all the work will be completed faster.

The following steps will require your attention. It is necessary to rearrange the saw along the ruler so that the second cut accurately measures the width we need. After setting up the machine, we begin sawing off the second side of the future lining.

Next, let's start jointing. This process will give the workpiece a smooth surface, and will also make all products the same thickness. To ensure this happens, remember how many times you passed each side through the jointer. Then process all other workpieces the same number of times.

Milling lining grooves

For such work, it is advisable to have a universal woodworking machine. This device is equipped with all the necessary equipment for processing wooden workpieces. As a rule, such a machine is equipped with a jointing device and a circular saw. At the same time, it has a work surface convenient for processing wood. With such a machine, making lining with your own hands will not be difficult.

From the video you will learn how to make and use special clamps for more efficient milling of lining grooves.

While working, you should take advantage of some tips and recommendations from experts:

• First of all, you need to work correctly with the woodworking machine itself. When cutting blanks for lining lengthwise, it is necessary to lay the board on the work surface. Further, its movement towards the circular saw is carried out using the body. It is with them, and not with your hands, that you need to push the workpiece. In this case, the risk of injury is significantly reduced;
• so that the lining turns out to be the same width, when reinstalling the saw to cut the second side of the workpiece, you can use the finished product as a ruler;
• After all the work is done, you will be left with a lot of wood waste. You shouldn't get rid of them right away. When cutting blanks, you get a lot of thin planks; they can be used as slats to create sheathing. In this case, you will be able to save significantly on material.

After all the manipulations, you will have a finished, beautiful and practical lining. All that remains is to treat it with impregnations, and you can begin installation. Treatment with an antiseptic should be carried out on all sides, and not just on the front, this will preserve the strength of the material for a long time.

Frame installation

The lining is attached only to the prepared supporting system. Before installing the frame, it is important to take care in advance of the surface of the brick or concrete wall on which it will be mounted. There should be no cracks, strong depressions or bulges on the wall and ceiling, the size of which exceeds 10 centimeters in diameter.

Photo - frame for sheathing

How to install the frame:

1. Using a meter and level, each angle is measured. You need to find the lowest point, as this is the starting point for designing the supporting system. From this point a horizontal line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the surface;
2. Afterwards, using the construction angle and the same level, it is necessary to draw a straight vertical line, which, with the correct design of the house, should be parallel to the wall. Many builders use weighted string for such purposes, since it will allow you to mark a straight line due to the force of gravity acting on it;
3. According to the outlined system, wooden slats or metal profiles are installed for fastening gypsum plasterboard (plasterboard). Experts advise using wood to build the frame, as it is easier to attach panels to it.
4. Afterwards, the frame is insulated with polystyrene foam (mineral wool can only be used in compressed form and in rooms where there is a normal level of humidity). The boards must first be treated with an antiseptic and fire-retardant compound.

At this point, the frame installation process can be considered complete. If you plan to install wooden or PVC lining in a bathroom or on a balcony, then you need to additionally take care of waterproofing. Here the cake includes a film that protects the frame and insulation from condensation and moisture from the outside.

Photo - installation principle

What determines the quality of homemade lining

Homemade lining

At home, all cutting parameters must be observed independently and quickly changed depending on the characteristics of the board and the capabilities of the machine. What should you keep in mind?

Pay attention to the location of the grain; never process lumber against the grain. Monitor the condition of the bearings

The slightest beating will certainly affect the roughness of the surfaces. As soon as it is discovered that the machine shaft is a little wobbly, the bearing must be urgently changed or, if possible, adjusted. Tenths of a millimeter of vibration significantly degrade the final quality. The serviceability of cutting tools is one of the important components of surface cleanliness. Saws and cutters must be sharp. If you make cutters yourself, then use only durable grades of tool steel. The geometry of all cutters must be the same. Otherwise, some of them will not work, and this is a very undesirable phenomenon. Position the cutters accurately, do not rush. It is very difficult for an inexperienced master to set all the cutters at once, do not be discouraged. Lose more time, but achieve the desired result. The lost time will be more than repaid in the future.

The cutters form the tenon and groove, and also determine the geometry of the lining

The more cutters, the better. If the head allows you to install four, then do so, do not work with two. Four cutters slightly increase the installation time, but then the machine works longer – they become less dull.

Set of cutters

Always use exactly the same wedges to secure the knives. Even small differences in mass cause head vibration. Vibration not only degrades the quality of processing, but also causes rapid wear of bearings and increases the risk of injury. Observe cutting conditions for lumber

We can talk about this topic for a very long time; cutting modes have a huge number of options. Beginning craftsmen need to become at least a little familiar with the theory, and in the future everything depends on the ability to learn practically and the desire to work with woodworking machines. Before feeding the board to the machine, inspect it, select the optimal cutting direction, taking into account the characteristics of the surfaces, the presence and type of knots and other defects. Place the finished lining in even stacks, do not place it vertically, and do not scatter it throughout the workshop. Cleanliness and order are evidence of the professionalism of the master.

The lining is folded in even stacks

If you have little experience, then the input/output of the board may be defective due to a slight change in the direction of movement and non-parallelism with the ruler. Keep this in mind when determining the length of the lining, make a reserve in length.

DIY installation

Before proceeding with installation, it is necessary to dry the lining. This will take several weeks. But then you won’t worry that the material will deform.

If drying did not take place inside the room where the finishing work will take place, the material needs a day to adapt to external conditions. After these recommendations have been completed, you can proceed directly to the cladding.

The lining fabric has a tenon on one side and a groove on the other. The latter should be located at the bottom during installation. This is necessary to prevent accumulated moisture from entering the structure.

The interior decoration of a house with clapboard can be carried out both from the ceiling and from the floor. But the first option is still desirable. Although the undercut can be hidden in the future using a plinth.

The slats can be secured in a hidden way using a clamp, or directly by nailing them to the lathing slats. The first option is more aesthetic.

Video - interior upholstery of a country house:

Varnishing or painting

To give the interior a finished look, you need to varnish or paint the lining. What is the difference between these procedures? Which composition should you choose?

The varnishes are based on several components. The appearance and application depend on them. There are varnishes:

• Acrylic;
• Polyurethane;
• Alkyd;
• Acrylic-polyurethane;
• Water based.

Video - painting wood:

Acrylic varnish dries quickly. It is suitable for both indoor and outdoor work. The varnish is not afraid of moisture and high temperatures. There are many colors and shades available for sale. Such a surface will be easy to clean from accumulated dust and dirt.

Alkyd varnishes take a very long time to dry. To speed up the process, you can use a special solution designed just for this purpose.

Another disadvantage is the unpleasant pungent odor. It is very difficult to remove it from the room.

The advantage is that after coating it forms a protective film against moisture.

The price for this varnish is higher, but its properties are much safer and more functional than other categories. The surface coated with this composition is very easy to clean.

Cost of work

Finishing with clapboard inside the house is a simple matter. It does not require special skills or years of training. You can perform this procedure yourself.

But if, due to some circumstances or other reasons, you cannot do this work yourself, you can hire a team of professionals.

The average price for interior cladding is 350 rubles per sq.m. This primarily depends on the complexity of the work, volume and premises. Rough finishing of utility rooms will be cheaper.

But for finishing work on an uneven surface you will have to pay a lot of money! The average price for the material itself ranges from 8 to 12 thousand rubles per cubic meter. m.

Characteristics and power

The functionality of using the equipment will depend on the correct choice of parameters, including speed indicators and drive power. The power rating is affected by the maximum permissible diameter of the toothed saw. It is believed that to process lumber with a thickness of about 10 millimeters, an electric motor with a power of 1 kW will be required. Based on the thickness of the processed and sawn timber, you should select the power of the electric motor.

Transmission from the drive in a self-made circular machine is best done using a V-belt. This allows you to ensure the necessary safety of using the equipment. When foreign objects get under the saw, the V-belt drive will slip on the pulleys, which eliminates injuries and jamming of the working disk.

Types of wood cutters

In most cases, not all cutters will be needed, but only slotted ones. But others can also be useful for applying decorative notches. When purchasing a wood cutter for making lining, you need to consider the diameter of the shank. To do this, you should find out what collets are equipped with your existing manual router or machine. The most common cutters with shank diameters are 6.8 and 12 mm.

Inch cutters and regular cutters (with shanks measured in mm) are not interchangeable. That is, they cannot be inserted into a “millimeter” collet, although it seems that the difference is only tenths of a millimeter.

According to the design features of the cutters there are:

1. Monolithic - cutting edges and shank are one piece. This is the cheapest and most common type. When the working edges become dull, the cutters are thrown away.
2. With replaceable cutting edges, the double-sided knives are removable and can be flipped to the other side.
3. Prefabricated - cutting elements are welded (soldered) to the main rod.
4. For soft woods, high-speed alloys are used, designated by the letters HM.
5. If the surface being treated is hard, then carbide steels - HSS - are used.
6. Slotted straight cutters - with their help you can get a rectangular groove; the working part of the cutter itself has the form of a cylinder with cutting lower edges.
7. Grooved fillets are similar to straight grooved ones with a rounded working edge, resulting in the shape of the groove in the form of the letter “U”.
8. Groove fillet V-shaped - the tool is used to produce various V-shaped grooves; they differ in the size of the groove and the size of the angles.
9. Groove structural - after milling, the groove has the shape of the letter “T”, turned upside down. Or “dovetail” - a groove in the form of an isosceles trapezoid that tapers towards the top.
10. Groove shaped - needed for creating figured carvings, working with edges; the groove resembles a funnel and other symmetrical elements.
11. Edge machines - differ in that they are designed for processing ends and edges; often the design includes a bearing for working according to a template.
12. Edge straight lines - needed to obtain a right angle between the upper plane of the workpiece and the end part.
13. Edge molding - to obtain a semicircular edge in the form of a wave, and of different shapes (depending on which part of the cutting plane is used), double cutters may have adjustment of the gaps between the cutter blades.
14. Seam edges - allow you to choose a rectangular groove, a quarter on a flat or curved workpiece. The processing depth is adjusted using the position of the router or the diameter of the thrust bearing.
15. Edge conical - needed for creating various kinds of decorative chamfers, for working with edges before joining them with other products, and so on.
16. Edge fillets - with their help, semicircular grooves are obtained. To ensure that there are no distortions during operation, 2 bearings are provided in the design of the tool.
17. Curved edge cutters (multi-profile) - to create complex-profile side edges, the length of such cutters is longer than conventional cutters; a powerful cutter is required for normal operation.
18. Edge semi-rod - needed to obtain a semicircular protrusion at the end.
19. Combination cutters are used to create tenon joints between several boards, both for corner and panel structures.

Most of all, the work will require tongue-and-groove cutters for lining. It is with the help of this tool that a tongue-and-groove system is created to connect the panels during assembly. They come in a set of two pieces. And for work you no longer have to calculate the dimensions of the groove and tenon.

There are varieties of tongue-and-groove regular paired cutters and those that are designed specifically for creating lining panels. The latter are distinguished by the fact that they allow you to simultaneously grind a groove/lock and round the edges on the front side. Using ordinary cutters, you can make flat panels from boards, for example, for a garage, where decorative chamfers are not needed.

Combined frame sets are kits; the blades can be positioned on the main axis, depending on what kind of work is supposed to be done. They contain: one or more thrust bearings, a lock washer and a clamping nut.

Figurine - needed for decorative processing of edges when creating panels. Since there is a bearing, both straight and semicircular surfaces can be processed. The diameter of the working edge of such tools is quite large, so powerful electrical equipment is needed to operate.

How to make a grinder at home

If we describe the design of the grinder quite simply, then it is a motor, 2-4 rotating rollers, one of which is adjustable, and a sanding belt. A grinder is usually distinguished from a manual grinder by a fixing stand with the ability to change the angle of inclination.

The stand is necessary for precision work. We decided to make descents - fix it, set the desired angle of inclination of the stand and start the grinder.

As for the adjustable roller, it is a must. After all, the sanding belt stretches over time, and subsidence forms. The roller is pulled up and the work continues. There is another important point: sanding tape is suitable only on an elastic basis. Otherwise, it will break under the load.

To assemble the machine at home, you will need:

1. Think over the design of the device and make drawings.
2. Prepare all the necessary tools: jigsaw, drill, ShMU.
3. Prepare the parts required during the assembly process or arrange with a turner for turning them.

First you need to decide on the tape, or rather its length. For domestic use, the optimal option is 915 mm; this is the length with which the majority of Chapaevsky machines work.

The base for the bed must be more than 12 mm thick. Bolted connections in this situation are unreliable. It is advisable to use welding.

When turning rollers, the roughness index is important, which should be at least 1.25. Otherwise the tape will wear out quickly

If the machine is planned to be made with four rollers, then it is customary to use the following dimensions: 150 mm for the leading one, 100 mm for the adjustable one, and 70 mm for the remaining one. It is important to position them without distortions to avoid the tape slipping

The cost of a finished pulley starts from 2000 rubles. Somewhat cheaper you can order from private turners.

Grinder made by yourself.

Particular attention should be paid to the drive for the grinder. If it is not possible to acquire a specialized engine, you can use an alternative

It is advisable to use an engine with a power of 0.75 kW or higher, and a speed of 1,200 or more.

Homemade grinder with a washing machine engine

With a drive pulley size of 70÷100 mm, the motor for the grinder must spin up to at least 3000 rpm. The motor, removed from an old automatic washing machine, has low power (below 300 W). It is characterized by good reliability and is unpretentious in operation.

The popularity of using just such a drive is due to its wide distribution.

The drive from the washing machine must be included in the preliminary drawing. A do-it-yourself grinder at home requires a motor with an output shaft. In this case, the shaft has a threaded connection, the design of which allows it to be connected to the pulley without much difficulty.

From a drill

A grinder for a drill is a special attachment that can be made in several stages. There are hundreds of different manufacturing options. Let's consider one of the simplest and most reliable, step-by-step instructions:

1. Everything necessary for work is prepared: shaft with gears, bearings and sheet metal.
2. Two plates measuring 110x250 mm are cut out.
3. The necessary holes are drilled on each of the plates. In this part the bearings will be fed for adjustment.
4. Next, take a “hairpin” and cut it into 120 mm pieces. Homemade rollers are installed on studs and secured with bolts. The tape is stretched and fixed on the other side.
5. A base is made for attaching the grinder. The machine is mounted on the bed, and the drill is fixed with clamps.
6. A corner is sharpened and attached for convenient fixation of the knife during sharpening.

From the Bulgarian

The main design difference between an angle grinder and other types of power tools is that its output shaft is turned at an angle of 90º to the axis of the electric motor and, accordingly, to the housing. For this reason, it is called an angle grinder.

This feature is perfect for longitudinal fastening of the drive roller and the “electric file” blade. The result is a tool that is elongated in a line and very comfortable to use. The same attachment for a drill is located at a right angle to the body, which is quite inconvenient for work.

To make a device, it is enough to make a metal base for the rollers, tension the tape, and adjust the dimensions of the drive roller to the ShMU guide, and the machine is ready.

Necessary equipment

First you need to select and prepare a large and powerful machine for work. A practical purchase would be a second machine. Due to the fact that even the most powerful machine will begin to overheat after a certain period of time, giving it the opportunity to rest and cool down will be a mandatory working moment. The required characteristic of the machine is a power of at least one kilowatt. It is required to perform two main functions - cutting and jointing, that is, leveling the wooden surface.

When giving preference to any model, pay attention to the presence of play - a gap in places where parts are adjusted. A high-quality woodworking machine, for example, an American one, does not exceed a width of fifteen to twenty centimeters

But the rulers and cooling system must also be of high quality.

Aluminum tends to leave black marks on wood. There is a possibility of applying stripes to the finished product with a jigsaw. As a result, defects adversely affect the appearance of the material after processing, and the finished lining must be painted when it was possible to get by with colorless varnish. For the operation of the saw, a specialized casing is designed, which is put on the base of the saw in order not to stain the wood, when both the table and the ruler do not have protective devices.

You can make alder lining manually, for example, with a milling cutter or using a circular saw. The milling method is of better quality.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with our range of materials

• Larch lining - Extra grade

  Wood Larch Width 96 mm Thickness 14 mm Length 3 m Qty.
  in pack 4 things. 1850 rub/m2

• Larch lining - Prima grade

  Wood Larch Width 96 mm Thickness 14 mm Length 3 m Qty.
  in pack 4 things. 1500 rub/m2

Peculiarities

Before we begin describing the manufacturing process, it is necessary to understand what this product is.

Lining is a type of facing material that is a product of processing natural wood. It is used to design both simple (linear) and complex structures. Depending on the technical characteristics, the products are used for exterior or interior decoration. Externally, these are flat panels with special connections at the edges.

In the production of lining, various types of wood are used, both deciduous and coniferous: alder, cedar, ash, pine, beech and much more.

Wooden finishing combines excellent performance and aesthetic qualities. Due to these characteristics, finishing has become widespread. Lining is used for external and internal cladding.

Advantages of lining:

• aesthetic appearance;
• a wide range of products, differing in color, texture and performance characteristics;
• it is an environmentally friendly product, safe for health and the environment;
• high-quality material has excellent practicality and wear resistance;
• finishing material made of wood is a classic that is always relevant and in demand;
• simple installation process;
• natural finishes create a comfortable atmosphere in the room.

Flaws:

• high price;
• requires careful care.

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Sales of finished products

The production of lining is a fairly common business and you will have to make a lot of effort to attract buyers. It is recommended to devote time to advertising at the initial stage of work. Ads, leaflets in construction stores, outdoor advertising and a website on the Internet are suitable.

Buyers can be private clients, construction stores and companies. Separately, it is worth paying attention to companies professionally engaged in the construction of saunas and baths, and companies providing services for country construction and finishing of private houses.