Usually copper is welded to steel in butt joints. The seams in this case can be external or internal. The choice depends on the type and purpose of the structure.
It is best to join steel and brass using gas welding. Electric arc welding with electrodes is used to join steel and red copper. Also, a high-quality weld can be achieved using graphite electrodes when joining submerged arcs or gas welding using BM-1 flux. Typically, when joining brass and steel, copper is used as an additive.
Before the procedure, it is necessary to prepare the edges of the metal. With the same thickness of parts, preparation is carried out in the same way as for ferrous metals. If the metal sheet has a thickness of less than 3 millimeters, then cutting is not required. If more than 3 millimeters, then bevel of the edges is required.
If you have not sufficiently cleaned the welding area or the bevel of the edges is small, then the quality of the weld will be poor. Thus, when joining metal with a large thickness, there is no need to make a blunting during the X-shaped groove.
Welding copper and its alloys with steel. How to weld copper and steel?
In practice, welding of copper and steel is most often carried out in butt joints. Depending on the nature of the structure, the seams in such a connection can be external or internal.
For welding brass to steel, gas welding is best suited, and for welding red copper to steel, electric arc welding with metal electrodes. Good results are also obtained when welding with carbon electrodes under a layer of flux and gas welding under a submerged arc BM-1. Often in practice, gas welding of brass to steel is performed using copper as a filler material.
The preparation of welded edges with the same thickness of non-ferrous metal and steel is carried out in the same way as when welding ferrous metals. Welding of sheets less than 3 mm thick is performed without cutting, and sheets starting from 3 mm are welded with beveled edges.
If the edges are insufficiently beveled, or if there is contamination at the ends of the parts being welded, good penetration cannot be achieved. Based on this, when welding parts of large thicknesses in which an X-shaped groove is made, blunting should not be done.
Welding copper with steel is a complex task, but quite feasible for surfacing and welding, for example, parts of chemical equipment, copper wire with a steel block. The quality of welding of such joints meets the requirements for them. The strength of copper can be increased by introducing up to 2% iron into its composition. With more iron, strength begins to decrease.
When welding with a carbon electrode, it is necessary to use direct current of straight polarity. The voltage of the electric arc is 40-55V, and its length is approximately 14-20mm. The welding current is selected in accordance with the diameter and quality of the electrode (carbon or graphite) and is in the range of 300-550A. The flux used is the same as for welding copper; the composition of these fluxes is given on this page. Flux is introduced into the welding zone, pouring it into the groove.
The welding method is used “left”. The best results when welding copper busbars to steel are obtained when welding “in a boat”. The diagram of such welding is shown in the figure. First, the copper edges are heated with a carbon electrode, and then welded with a certain position of the electrode and filler rod (see figure). The welding speed is 0.25m/h. Welding copper with cast iron is carried out using the same technological techniques.
Welding of low-alloy bronze of small thickness (up to 1.5 mm) to steel with a thickness of up to 2.5 mm can be done overlapping with a non-consumable tungsten electrode in an argon environment on an automatic machine with a filler wire with a diameter of 1.8 mm supplied from the side. In this case, it is very important to direct the arc towards the overlap from the copper side. Modes of such welding: current 190A, arc voltage 11.5V, welding speed 28.5m/h, wire feed speed 70m/h.
Copper and brass can be welded well to steel using flash butt welding. With this welding method, steel edges melt quite strongly, and non-ferrous metal edges melt slightly. Taking into account this circumstance, and taking into account the difference in the resistivity of these metals, the overhang for steel is taken to be 3.5d, for brass 1.5d, for copper 1.0d, where d are the diameters of the rods being welded. For butt welding of such rods using the resistance method, an overhang of 2.5d for steel, 1.0d for brass and 1.5d for copper is recommended. The specific resistance of the upset is assumed to be in the range of 1.0-1.5 kg/mm 2.
Welding with carbon and graphite electrodes
This type of welding of copper alloys is rarely used. Carbon electrodes are used when connecting workpieces up to 15 mm thick, graphite electrodes are larger than this value. Welding mode:
- The current is constant.
- Polarity is straight.
- The filler rod is not immersed in the weld pool. Distance 5-6 mm.
- The process is carried out in a protective flux. It is applied to the filler rod, which is pre-dipped in liquid glass.
- The gap is 0.5 mm.
- An asbestos or graphite lining is used.
- Copper up to 5 mm thick is welded without preheating.
- Welding must be done in one pass.
Welding copper to steel
Usually copper is welded to steel in butt joints. The seams in this case can be external or internal. The choice depends on the type and purpose of the structure.
It is best to join steel and brass using gas welding. Electric arc welding with electrodes is used to join steel and red copper. Also, a high-quality weld can be achieved using graphite electrodes when joining submerged arcs or gas welding using BM-1 flux. Typically, when joining brass and steel, copper is used as an additive.
Before the procedure, it is necessary to prepare the edges of the metal. With the same thickness of parts, preparation is carried out in the same way as for ferrous metals. If the metal sheet has a thickness of less than 3 millimeters, then cutting is not required. If more than 3 millimeters, then bevel of the edges is required.
If you have not sufficiently cleaned the welding area or the bevel of the edges is small, then the quality of the weld will be poor. Thus, when joining metal with a large thickness, there is no need to make a blunting during the X-shaped groove.
Interim results for the joint use of iron and copper (brass and other non-ferrous pipes)
Friends! I am ready to express my personal opinion. It is now quite well formed for me and consists of the following.
Using non-ferrous and iron parts together is not entirely good and is best avoided. If we talk about iron water supply, then when using detachable connections it is worth choosing iron ones. They exist and are much cheaper than colored ones, but they look downright nasty. I do not recommend using black iron parts in your plumbing. They rust, rust drips off them, everything gets dirty, and the plumbing as a whole looks very unpresentable.
I cannot say whether iron taps and valves exist in nature. It seems not, and this is a very narrow point (literally and figuratively). We cannot do without valves, and the use of colored valves will give us all the above-mentioned disadvantages. What scared me most was the narrowing of the passage and the stone inside this narrowing.
I would estimate the service life of the iron water supply to be 20 years. After the 25th year of service of such a water supply system, I strongly advise you to think about replacing it.
Personally, after this experience of reworking the plumbing, I solemnly refuse to use iron parts once and for all. This is now my another unbreakable principle.
How is copper welded to steel?
In reality this is quite a difficult task. But a good welder can still cope with such a task. Such compounds are used in the production of chemical equipment parts. One of the options encountered is to connect a copper wire to a steel block. The welding quality indicators of such joints are quite sufficient for their task. To increase the strength characteristics of copper products, up to 2% iron is added to the composition. It is not recommended to use a larger volume, as the strength will begin to decrease.
For welding work using graphite electrodes, direct current of direct polarity is used. In this case, the arc length of electricity should be in the range from 14 to 20 millimeters, and the voltage from 40 to 55 volts. The current is selected depending on the quality of the electrode and its diameter. Typically it is in the range of 300-550 amperes. Fluxes are used exactly the same as for working with copper. Their composition can be viewed on this page. Flux should be poured between the cutting edges into the welding area.
You should start welding from the left. The best result is achieved when processing with a “boat”. The process is carried out as follows:
- First, heat the edges of the copper product with a carbon electrode.
- Then the parts are connected in a certain position of the filler rod and the electrode. The rod should be inclined against the movement at an angle of 30-40 degrees to the metal. The electrode should be inclined in the direction of welding at an angle of 75-85 degrees.
The welding speed should be 25 centimeters per hour. The connection of copper and cast iron occurs in the same way.
An overlap joint is used to weld bronze with a low content of alloying elements and a thickness of up to 1.5 millimeters to steel up to 2.5 millimeters. In this case, non-consumable tungsten electrodes and 1.8 mm filler wire are used. It is served from the side. The welding itself is carried out in an argon environment in automatic mode. Processing must occur from the side of the copper element. The current should be 190 amperes, the wire feed speed should be 70 meters per hour, and the welding speed should be 28.5 meters per hour. In this case, the electric arc voltage should be 11.5 volts.
Flash butt welding is used to join copper or brass to a steel workpiece. This method allows you to achieve different degrees of melting of the edges, while non-ferrous metals melt less. Based on this, departures are made equal to:
- 3.5 d for steel,
- 1.5 d for brass,
- 1.0 d for copper.
Argon arc welding
Welding occurs using an electric arc in argon, i.e. in an inert environment, using consumable or non-consumable electrodes. A tungsten electrode is most often used as a non-consumable electrode. The additive is supplied to the arc zone from the outside and is not connected to the electrical circuit. Tig welding is usually used to join small products.
The quality of the welded joint depends on the degree of penetration of the steel and will be more acceptable with as little steel as possible in the resulting weld. This is achieved by correctly adjusting the heating and controlling the melting of both metals: the high temperature of the arc is concentrated on the copper, and the steel is heated and melted thanks to the thermal energy coming from the resulting weld pool.
Taking this feature into account for welding copper with thick iron, preheating is not performed. In this case, it is better to perform welding using flux. To prevent the leakage of liquid metal, with this approach, appropriate limiters are used on the copper side.
When using a non-consumable electrode, direct current of straight polarity and pure argon without impurities are used. Material thicker than 4 mm is welded after preheating to 800°C. It is better to weld by tilting the electrode towards the area to be welded by 85-90°, while the filler wire should be tilted by 15-20°, and the electrode extension should be maintained by 5-10 mm. It is also very important to choose the correct filler material. Typically, various copper alloys are used.
Stud welding
Often there is a need to attach studs with a diameter of 8-12 millimeters made of pure copper or its alloys to steel, or vice versa. In this case, direct current of reverse polarity is used. The flux used is rather fine OSTS-45. No heating required.
Studs made of copper or brass L62 up to 10-12 millimeters in cross-section with a current strength of 400 amperes attach quite well to steel or cast iron elements. Brass LS 59-1 is not used.
Steel studs are very difficult to weld to copper or brass. A more or less normal result can be achieved by putting a copper ring with a height of 4 millimeters and a diameter of up to 8 millimeters on the end of a steel pin. To achieve good results, it is recommended to use K-100 electrodes.
Source: atl-met.ru
Rod material
Electrode rods for welding copper and its alloys are made from wire and rods, the composition of which meets the requirements set out in GOST 16130-90. Mostly it is copper or bronze. Metal alloys are often used in production.
- Copper rods are made with a diameter of 2-6 mm, they can be wrapped in tin 0.3-.05 mm thick. They are coated with various types of coating, for example, basic or rutile. For the Komsomolets-100 electrode, the rod is made of M1 copper.
- Bronze rods are made mainly from metal grade BrKMts-3-1. They are coated with a mixture of different substances. They can also be made from tin-phosphor bronze Br.FO 4-03.
- Bronze rods ensure the creation of excellent quality seams. They deoxidize metal worse than those made of copper. Bronze rods may reduce the mechanical strength of the joint under certain conditions.
We perform copper welding at home
Welding of metal parts is a technological procedure that makes it possible to obtain permanent connections by forming a bond between intermolecular and interatomic particles of the material under significant heating until melting and plastic deformation. Spot welding of copper at home is used, as a rule, to join many metals and their alloys in all industrial fields, even medicine.
To carry out welding work, different energy sources can be used: friction, ultrasound, electric arc, electric current. Modern technologies are so advanced that work related to welding joints of metal structures can be performed not only in industrial enterprises, but also in the field, on reservoirs, under water, even in space.
But, as in any type of activity, there are nuances, advantages and disadvantages, requirements for the safety of work, etc. Thus, when organizing welding work at home with workpieces made of copper, aluminum, brass, and stainless steel, it is necessary to follow the established precautions. This type of activity is particularly dangerous to human health: there is a danger of damage to the organs of vision by ultraviolet radiation, contact with molten metal on the skin, electric shock, etc.
How do iron parts serve in combination with iron parts?
Much better. The parts unwind normally and the passage at the joints is not so narrowed, although, as I said earlier, the iron parts look bad. In addition, in some places I noticed rust “tumors” not at the joints, but on a seemingly flat section of the pipe, where the appearance of this tumor did not foretell anything.
Which parts serve better - galvanized or black?
Surprisingly, I did not see that the galvanized parts used serve better than the black ones. Both types do not serve very well and are about the same.
Is it possible and worth reusing iron pipes?
Reusing iron pipes (including galvanized ones) is short-sighted and, in my opinion, wrong.
Copper Gas Welding Technology
Gas welding of copper at home is the most common technology used in domestic conditions. The resulting weld using this technique is highly durable. It is thanks to this parameter that gas welding is in great demand among home craftsmen. To connect copper products at home, you need to have on hand:
- Welding machine
- Gas-burners
- Gas cylinders (acetylene)
- Copper wire
- asbestos
Some advice from experienced welders
- If the thickness of the copper product is no more than 1 cm, the connection can be made with one torch.
- If the thickness of the copper sample is more than 1 cm, it is necessary to use two burners at once, the second will serve for heating.
- To reduce the outflow of thermal energy in this case, additional asbestos sheets will be needed.
- When welding copper products, it is recommended to use electrical wire made of copper, previously cleaned of paint and varnish insulating coatings.
- Cleaning must also be carried out on the welded edges of the products. This condition should not be neglected, since the possibility of cuprous oxide formation depends on it.
All necessary conditions for preliminary preparation for welding work have been completed. This means you can proceed directly to connecting the prepared copper products.
Recommendations
- You should try not to overheat the heated sections of the connection that are located close to each other.
- The concentrated flame must be directed perpendicular to the seam directly to the edge of the wire.
- The wire should melt before the edges of the product. The cooking process continues until the entire seam is completely formed.
- It must be remembered that stopping an unfinished connection can lead to overheating of some areas of the product, resulting in cuprous oxide and the formation of cracks.
- The completed weld must be forged.
- For small thicknesses of products, the wire must be kept cold.
- If the thickness of the product is more than 0.5 cm, then the wire must be heated to a temperature of 200 degrees. Higher temperatures are also allowed, but not more than 500 degrees, since the grain of the metal will form, which will subsequently become quite brittle.
- The welded, forged seam must be brought to a temperature of 500 degrees and cooled instantly.
At this point, the connection of copper parts can be considered complete.
Other types of welding
Let's look at less common types of welding:
- Friction welding allows you to obtain welded joints with strength at the level of the base material.
- Explosion welding produces a high-strength connection . The method is used to produce layered sheets and tapes.
- Roll welding is used to produce bimetallic sheets and steel + copper strips . Usually the connection is not inferior in strength to the base metal.
- Resistance welding provides intense heat generation in the welding zone and high temperature gradients.
- Ultrasonic welding of small thickness parts . Vibrations are supplied from the copper side.
- Diffusion welding . Provides heat-resistant, vibration-resistant welded joints while maintaining high accuracy of geometric dimensions and shapes of products.
- Fusion welding . A layer of another metal is first fused onto the steel or an intermediate insert is used.
- Electron beam welding . A very promising, but still rarely used technique. This is a relatively safe and environmentally friendly method that almost does not endanger the health of the welder.
Source
Argon-arc welding of copper samples
Argon-arc welding at home is performed using welding equipment using direct current, non-consumable tungsten electrodes. The procedure is reminiscent of soldering products: the electrode is heated to a high temperature. As a result, the copper begins to melt.
With this welding technique, it is important to instantly cool the areas being joined. Argon-arc welding involves the use of argon and copper filler wire, which is pre-cleaned from the paint and varnish insulating coating.
Copper welding: area of application of technology
Argon welding is used to repair structures made of copper. It has proven itself to be quite effective when performing welding work in hard-to-reach areas.
Argon-arc welding is quite in demand at manufacturing enterprises, and if you have the appropriate equipment, it can also be successfully used in domestic conditions. If you have inverter welding equipment and special fusible electrodes, the procedure for joining copper samples can be carried out using the technology of welding steel products. There are practically no fundamental differences in this case. But, with this joining method it is much more difficult to make a vertical seam than a horizontal one.
And how do copper pipes serve in combination with iron ones?
They serve poorly. But no destruction of “colored” parts was noticed. Copper and brass parts remain “like new.” If I focused on the absence of destruction in copper parts, does this mean that iron parts had it? Yes and no. More on this later.
The point is this. Firstly, the connection of dissimilar materials is difficult to unwind. You have to use very high quality adjustable wrenches. Ordinary ones can easily ruin a softer copper part. It reached the point of absurdity for me. To avoid ruining the copper, I cut off a piece of iron pipe, then used a small grinder to cut the iron fitting lengthwise, and then split it with a chisel. And often, even from an iron piece split in half, copper did not immediately come out.
Sgon. A ball valve was screwed to this end
Please note that there is much more rust than on the other end, which was screwed into a tee.
I apologize for the sharpness of the image. But I can’t retake it. The drive is already in the trash.
The same drive, but it was screwed to the iron.
This end of the drive was connected to the iron tee. Notice that you can see where the water stood. There's more rust there.
What was the reason? The fact that the junction of copper and iron was overgrown with rust. Moreover, it grew so that the hole in the connection narrowed significantly. And in one case (oh horror) I discovered a stone in a narrowed place that left a very tiny passage for water. But this was in the hot water pipeline and the damage was not too noticeable, since the flow of hot water is not the same as the flow of cold water, but much less. At the very least, the hot water tap usually does not open “all the way”. Is this fact a sign of the destruction of iron parts in combination with copper?
Fitting, in the narrowed hole of which a stone was found
This is the same fitting that was clogged with a stone. If you look very carefully, you can see flax fibers in the rust. One could say that rust had grown on the remains of flax, but when analyzing other fittings, this pattern is not visible.
In general, it seemed to me that the formation of rust in hot water was less than in cold water.
The rust that overgrown the joint was not local, but alluvial. That is, you could beat it with a hammer and make sure that the colored fitting was not actually damaged. There are no cavities or dents on the colored part. Of course, iron parts rust. At the same time, they become thinner. I cannot say that in 10 years they have thinned catastrophically or very significantly, but you can safely forget about the 50 years of service of iron pipes and not indulge yourself with vain hopes. I believe that ordinary iron loses about one tenth of a millimeter in thickness per year. It doesn’t matter whether it’s galvanized or not.
And there are (only) two cases of destruction. Both of them, for some reason, touch the pump inlet line. It was made with a galvanized pipe with a diameter of an inch and a quarter. One thread was at the junction of the pipe and the check valve. When I unscrewed this valve, I could not unscrew it and the valve broke. Then, out of grief, I began to hit the joint with a chisel, and it turned out that everything there was rusty. The chisel simply fell through. Then I broke off the valve from the pipe and took out the rust, which was already half sand. If I had tried the chisel right away, I wouldn't have broken the valve.
The second connection is shown in the photos. This connection was screwed into a brass plug connection and somehow came out. But you can see what happened to him. Why did the destruction only affect the intake line? Remains a mystery. Both the inlet and outlet pipes are electrically connected, because my pump has a working unit made of stainless steel.
Destroyed carving fragment
Destroyed thread fragment 2
Destroyed thread fragment 3
How many parts did I break when disassembling the pipeline?
A little. But they were. Two ball valves, one Soviet-era valve, one inch and a quarter check valve. This thing, you know, is expensive. I had to buy a new one. And one magnetic converter. This one is even more expensive and I somehow fixed it. But you still have to change it.
A piece of ball valve that I couldn't unscrew
It failed due to the fact that I did not find a wrench thin enough to grab the faucet by the hexagon. The faucet turned out to be of very high quality. The untwisted parts can probably even be glued together.
And the faucet was of high quality. It looks like it really is like new.
By the way, I was very pleased with the Bugatti cranes. They were all like new. In addition, they have more mass, and a little more force can be applied to them when unwinding. Unfortunately, not all of the other cranes came out uninjured. It turned out that one began to leak if it was not fully open or closed. And one of them had a rotten handle. Luckily, I broke the exact faucet that was leaking. And another one simply folded in the place of the technical glued joint (by the way, it was also of high quality). There is reason to remember one of my first articles. This is about how a ball valve dissolved in water in 2 years, it seems.
Do copper piping parts become rusty?
When examining the disassembled fittings, it was discovered that the iron parts were overgrown with certain deposits that resembled stones. These stones narrow the passage for water. They can be beaten off with a hammer. There are no such stones on copper parts. But the surface of copper pipes cannot be called shiny. There is a rusty coating on it that stains your finger. This deposit does not narrow the passage for water and can be wiped off with a finger or a cloth. Thus, you don't have to worry about copper pipes. We can say that the copper parts have not been damaged after 10 years and have not changed at all.
What you need to know about electrodes used for welding copper parts
To ensure a high quality weld, it is recommended to use electrodes coated with a special compound. Such a coating is necessary for the production of slag formed with metal oxides. It will prevent air from coming into contact with the weld. The coating fills the voids formed during welding of parts due to burnout of components and subsequently introduces new components into the seam. This coating contributes to better stability of the electric arc. The slag layer produced by this coating will slow down the cooling of the molten copper, causing more gases to escape from the weld.
Electrodes used in the welding process are divided into two types:
- melting - wire made of copper, steel, aluminum, cast iron is used for their production;
- non-melting - synthetic graphite and electrical coal are used for their production.
When choosing electrodes, you need to look at their color:
- yellow electrodes are intended for samples made of heat-resistant, corrosion-resistant steels;
- red - used for electric arc welding of copper products;
- gray – for blanks made of non-ferrous metals;
- blue - designed for connecting heat-resistant components.
Electrodes for removing broken pins
Selectarc SCREW/SKRYU Special electrode for removing broken bolts, drills, taps from parts of almost all types (cast iron, steel, aluminum, bronze, etc.). The special electrode coating forms a graphite layer that effectively protects the thread during surfacing and serves as a lubricant after cooling. Easily alloys with low- and high-alloy steels, as well as hardened steels. Conditions of use: fix the nut on the surface of the part. Light an arc strictly in the center of the broken product and fuse it. Then scald along the contour of the nut. Let cool and unscrew. Electrode diameters: Ø 2.0; Ø 2.5; Ø 3.2
Welding brass structures
Welding brass at home is a rather complicated procedure, since brass contains zinc, which evaporates when heated, as a result of which the product loses its original strength.
Brass itself is an alloy with zinc. The technology for joining parts made of brass is considered difficult due to the evaporation of zinc at high temperatures; this chemical element instantly oxidizes, resulting in the formation of a toxic, refractory oxide. Therefore, welding of brass samples should be carried out in specially equipped places equipped with an exhaust hood; welders should work in respirators.
Basic requirements for welding brass
- Cleanliness of the process when using argon-arc welding. Before starting work, the products are thoroughly cleaned to a characteristic metallic shine on the surface.
- There should be no oxides on the surface of the parts being welded; if present, they must be removed. Nitric acid is used for this. After this cleaning is completed, the product is washed in hot water and then dried.
When welding parts with argon, a characteristic continuous crackling sound is felt, and the welding arc has an amazing color. This is all due to the presence of zinc in the alloy. Brass does not burn through during the joining process, nor does it fly off in separate pieces, as it melts. Experienced welders advise welding brass in separate sections and not melting it in a continuous layer. When the material melts completely, there is a possibility of burning through the metal.
If it is necessary to weld a crater, then it is recommended to gradually reduce the welding voltage, increase the length of the arc and subsequently move it away from the workpiece. In the process of such a connection, the seam is filled in full; roasting of the zinc leads to its evaporation, resulting in the formation of defects in the metal. To reduce the evaporation of this chemical element, it is necessary to increase the presence of oxygen in the flame and use filler materials alloyed with boron, aluminum, and silicon.
Advice! When connecting brass parts, carry out welding work outdoors, do not neglect safety requirements!
Source: electrod.biz
Plumbing problems
And so, inspired by my bright feelings, youth and enthusiasm, I made a heating system that still works “like clockwork.” I don’t know, though, because of the pipes or only because of the pipes and the water supply. 10 years have passed since then. I haven’t touched the heating and I don’t intend to touch it. But I decided to redo the plumbing.
Why I decided to redo my plumbing or “don’t repeat my mistakes”
The fact is that the water supply was simply poorly placed. Access to the pump, boiler and other important parts was difficult. In the summer, when it’s hot, condensation drips from the pipes, all this collects on the devices, and it’s difficult to wipe off this dirt, because access, as I already mentioned, is difficult. A mess, in short.
But the most important thing. When I did the plumbing, I saved money. I made the water supply system combined. I supplemented the copper pipes with simple pieces of iron, or rather even worse. I supplemented the pieces of iron, even non-galvanized in some places, with copper that was left over from the heating. The shortcomings of my product became visible very quickly, but nevertheless, almost 10 years passed before I was able to replace this disgrace and redo the plumbing. But now I have a series of articles on my website called “Entertaining Plumbing.”
Welding and soldering of copper and steel
#1 hperak
#2 HUMBLE
Is it possible to weld copper to iron tig ac ds?
Welding of all types of metal in SAMARA -
#3 hperak
#4 HUMBLE
What type of solder should there be and is it possible to make it yourself?
Welding of all types of metal in SAMARA -
#5 AVN
#6 Mengon
what and how is unclear. There is brass on the surface and it looks like it was just poured out when it was molten.
#7 hperak
#8 Funtik
Copper-phosphorus is neither good nor bad for the little blackie!
#9 Elkin
Is a copper radiator or honeycomb that has already been soldered with tin soldered with hard solder?
#10 LamoBOT
Try it and tell us. Purely theoretically, in my amateurish opinion, there will be no problems, because copper + tin + lead = bronze.
#11 Nail02
Let me ask in a similar thread. I have no experience with soldering at all. I'm trying to learn. Here's my first "damn". Tell me what's wrong. I tortured both the detail and myself. I couldn’t solder it properly, without experience. Acetylene-oxygen heating pad. I used borax and uncut brass from the radiator. Heated, heated, heated, on the heating element it melts normally, on the lower metal plate it melts normally. What is better to use for such details. Tin solder probably won't work here? After all, the heating element will heat up. Or maybe solder everything with tin solder, since the water in the tank still won’t heat up above 100 degrees?
Silver solders
SILVER SOLDER BRAND Enrobe 5030/Enrob 5030 (or SP Ag 30/SP Ag 30) Solid silver solder containing Ag=30% for soldering steel (including stainless steel), cast iron, nickel alloys, copper, brass, bronze , gold, silver, carbide plates. It is used in the food, medical, jewelry industries, weapons production, repair of refrigeration equipment, etc. Hardness: 108 HB, weld metal: Cu-Zn-Ag-Sn Solder diameters: Ø 2.0
SILVER SOLDER BRAND Enrobe 1005/Enrob 1005 Hard silver solder containing Ag=5% for soldering steel (including stainless steel), cast iron, nickel alloys, copper, brass, bronze, gold, silver, carbide plates.
It is used in the food, medical, jewelry industries, weapons production, repair of refrigeration equipment, etc. Tensile strength (R.daN/mm2): 38, relative elongation: 15%, operating temperature: 615-630 º C, density (kg/mm3): 8400, weld metal: Cu-Zn-Ag-Sn. Solder diameters: Ø 2.0
Pipe soldering technology
To solder copper pipes, you need to prepare a pipe cutter. After the desired piece of pipe is cut, the outer cut is brushed to remove burrs and roughness. Using a pipe expander, the second section of pipe is expanded to the desired size so that one part of the pipe fits into the other.
Soldering copper pipes
Flux is applied to a pipe with a smaller diameter, and two pipe elements are fastened together. The joint is heated evenly; for this you can use either a torch or a hair dryer. Solder is applied to this place; after it melts, the surface will be completely covered with it. You can use soft solder as an alloy; it will do the job perfectly.
Basic mistakes when soldering yourself
Most often, it is haste that leads to the fact that the connection of two elements is unsuccessful. Because they forget to inspect the surface of the parts being connected. The first action to correct an error is to check for defects. They could appear when cutting parts.
How reliable the seam will be depends on the cleanliness of the surface. Therefore, it is still worth brushing off even invisible specks of dust. One of the most basic mistakes is made when applying flux. The master may forget to process a small area of the product. And it will cause the proper connection to fail.
It is also important to monitor the temperature of the torch or soldering iron, since overheating of the element being processed leads to combustion of the flux. But insufficient melting point is also harmful. In this case, the connecting compounds do not soften or stick.
Source of the article: https://strop-snab.ru/novosti/pajka-stali-medyu.html
