How to disassemble a screwdriver chuck - repair it yourself

Design and main types of cartridges

A chuck or head is a metal cylinder that is attached to the screwdriver shaft. Its task is to reliably fix the working bits under the fasteners. The cartridge is fixed to the shaft using a thread or a special cone. According to the type of fastening, clamping elements are divided into:

• quick-clamping;
• self-clamping;
• gear-crown, they are also cam.

The difference between the first two types is only in the way the bit is clamped. In a quick-release chuck, the shank is twisted and clamped manually. Modern drills and screwdrivers use clamps to fix shanks with a diameter of 0.8-25 mm.

Quick-release

A BZP type device consists of the following parts:

• nut with teeth;
• clamping bearing;
• washer;
• sleeve;
• sponges;
• sleeve.

BZP heads are divided into single-coupling and double-coupling. The first type is used in screwdrivers with a locking device. Thanks to it, the clamping device can be rotated with one hand, since the second part of the housing is fixed motionless. With double-clutch cylinders, both hands are used.

In a self-clamping sleeve, the bit with the drill is automatically clamped while turning. The risk of turning the drill when working with such a screwdriver is almost zero. When the cams are loosened and tightened, the device makes a clicking sound.

Self-clamping

You cannot tighten the jaw chuck by hand - you need an L-shaped wrench. It is inserted into the groove perpendicularly. The ZVP type, that is, a toothed chuck, is considered less convenient to install, but provides a more reliable clamping of the bit. This is a type of cam type clamping cylinder. This head consists of three main elements - a cylindrical body, a rotating outer ring and an internal cam mechanism. The mechanism, made of durable steel, consists of 3 cams, which close together when the ring rotates.

Cam

Which drill chuck is better?

The drill chuck plays the role of an adapter between the drill and the working tool. For any task or for each type of drill, you need to select the optimal chuck option. Working hours and workload are also important.

What is the most influential factor on the operation of a cartridge and what factors can cause it to fail? Replacing a cartridge in the field can be difficult if you don't have a spare.

1. Quality of materials. The “Chinese” cartridge can fail during heavily loaded operations. Therefore, it is better to purchase high-quality models.
2. If the drill or the chuck itself falls out, time is lost. When drilling at height, safety is at risk. In case of a loose conical fit with a loose fastening, measures must be taken in advance.
3. Drill chuck runout. If this occurs, you should disassemble the drill chuck, check for contamination or adjust the fastenings. If bent, it usually cannot be repaired manually; it is best to replace it with a new one.
4. Collets or jaws jamming. To rectify the situation, you will need to disassemble the cartridge (remove the cartridge itself if you know how and have already changed it). Cleaning, lubrication and assembly are carried out.

The most popular varieties besides the key one are: quick-clamping (or “bzp”) and self-clamping.

Options for attaching to the screwdriver shaft

The chuck is attached to the tool shaft by:

• thread. To do this, the threads of the cylinder and shaft must match. A metal cylinder is screwed onto a shaft.
• fixing screw. The fastening also requires tightening, and the screw itself only strengthens the contact between the cartridge sleeve and the shaft. It has notches for a Phillips screwdriver and a left-hand thread.
• Morse cone. One of the oldest fastening methods. The screwdriver shaft has a cone shape, and the same groove is made inside the sleeve. When the outer and inner cones fit together, the head is securely seated on the shaft.

Morse taper devices

Standard sizes and markings

Before disassembling the screwdriver, it is necessary to determine the type of cylinder mounting. The marking will tell you this. An inscription of the form 1-6В14 indicates the type of fixation Morse taper, where the numbers before the letter are the diameter of the bit shank in millimeters, and after that the size of the conical hole. There are 9 articles – from B7 to B45.

For cartridges with threaded fastening, markings of the form 1.5-13 M12x1.25 are provided. Here the numbers before the letter also show the permissible diameter of the tail of the bit, and after the letter there are thread sizes in millimeters.

Important! Foreign screwdrivers use markings in inches - it looks like this: 2-13 1/2 - 20 UNF. 1/2 means inch, and 20 means the number of threads per inch.

Threaded cylinder

How to choose a new one

You need to choose according to the product model and type of components. If the screwdriver is branded, then you should contact a service center. Specialists will provide the necessary details. Here are some recommendations for choosing a new cartridge:

• if bits are changed frequently, it is better to choose a quick-release type to increase productivity;
• a key type of part is necessary if the diameter of the drills used is large;
• when choosing a cone, it is important to remember: the larger the part, the higher its number in accordance with GOST 9953-82;
• if a foreign-made part is selected, then the dimensions on it are indicated in inches.

How to remove the head from a screwdriver

It is recommended that the cylinder be removed periodically for routine cleaning and lubrication of parts to extend the life of the power tool. The removal method depends on the type of attachment to the shaft and the model of the screwdriver. Read more about how to remove the chuck of different types of fastening from Makita, Metabo, Bosch screwdrivers.

Removed head

On a note! You only need to disconnect the cylinder from the shaft with a screwdriver that has cooled down after work.

With fixing screw

Removing the head with the fixing screw is carried out in the following order:

1. The screw is located between the clamping jaws. You need to open them completely and unscrew the screw clockwise with a Phillips screwdriver.
2. After this, a suitable size hex wrench is placed in the cams. It must be turned sharply and strongly counterclockwise.
3. If the clutch of the cylinder with the shaft is very strong and the key does not help to separate it, you will have to additionally help with gentle blows of the hammer.

The screw is here

With Morse taper

Sleeves of this type are disconnected from the screwdriver by knocking the shank out of the conical socket with a hammer. But this standard method may not give results. Then you need to disassemble the screwdriver. The shaft with gearbox and chuck is removed, and then the clamping cylinder should be unscrewed with a pipe wrench. Nuts on a sleeve with a Morse taper are an extremely rare phenomenon.

With threaded fastening

You will need a 10mm L-shaped hex key. It must be placed between the cams, securely fastened and rotated. Next, you should start the screwdriver at low speed and immediately turn it off, pressed against a support - for example, a table or wall. It is against the support that the free part of the L-shaped hexagon should hit a couple of moments after starting the power tool. As a rule, after this the fastening is loosened and the cylinder is carefully removed.

Removing the head with a threaded fastening is shown in the video:

Advice! If none of the three options helps, the screwdriver must be disassembled.

Removal from a disassembled gearbox

If the screwdriver gearbox fails, you will need to remove the cylinder to get to it. This is done like this:

1. Unscrew the fixing bolt inside the sleeve.
2. Find the gearbox, put the head on the back side of it, and securely fix it. The head diameter is usually 19 mm.
3. With your other hand, carefully unscrew the cylinder counterclockwise.

Methods for removing the cartridge

To remove the cartridge you need to know how it is secured.

If you need to replace the chuck in a screwdriver with Morse taper type locking, you need the help of a hammer.

The last thing to knock out is the shank from the housing socket.

Sometimes the method may not work.

In this case, you need to take a radical path:

• disassemble the screwdriver;
• we take out the shaft with gearbox and chuck;
• Using a pipe wrench, unscrew the clamping cylinder.

In rare cases, the sleeves may have wrench-type recesses.

This simplifies the task, but it is better not to count on it.

How to disassemble a cartridge

Once the cylinder is removed from the screwdriver, you can begin disassembly. The first step is to remove the plug in the base. For a plug made of plastic, careful prying with a knife is enough, but the metal part must be knocked out by hitting the base of the cartridge and turning it by hand.

You need to hit here

This requires a large bolt. It is placed in the sleeve and lightly clamped with fists to fix it in the center. At the same time, he should not get stuck, but move freely back and forth. The head of the bolt should protrude 2-3 cm from the cylinder. Then a gentle but pointed blow is applied to the bolt with a hammer, and then the metal plug is removed.

Next, the actual disassembly of the screwdriver chuck begins. The design of any cylinder consists of unchanged main parts:

• sleeves;
• grounds;
• washers;
• bearing;
• nuts

Second parsing option

If it was not possible to disassemble the cylinder using the indicated method, it is worth trying another one. Many models of screwdrivers are not designed for unwinding, so this option will not work and will only harm the chuck. One of the disassembly methods involves the use of a hammer drill or drill. The action instructions are as follows:

1. Take a hammer drill or impact drill, insert a bolt or broken drill with a diameter of up to 12 mm into the tool.
2. Place the head on the bolt or drill with the side opposite the jaws.
3. Unclench your cams, rest the cylinder against a solid, stable base - a wall, floor, etc. Between the cartridge and the support there must be a shock-absorbing layer - rubber or foam.

Disassembly using a hammer drill

1. Start the hammer drill or drill in impact mode.

The vibrations will cause the sleeve to fly off the sleeve, revealing the remaining parts. After cleaning or replacing elements, the head can be easily reassembled.

Important! When assembling, it is important not to confuse the location of the cams.

If jammed

Chuck in screwdrivers Elitech, Flex PD 2G 18 volt, Bort, Whirlwind, Patriot, AEG BS D, Dexter, Makita DF 331 D, etc. can jam if the user has to unclench the cams to the maximum, and then they cannot be returned to their place, no matter how much effort is applied. In this case, a drill of the maximum size allowed is inserted.

The jaws cannot be opened in order to remove a bit or drill clamped in the chuck if they are unevenly compressed . Because of this, the attachments may dangle and the fastening will be unreliable.

Rarely do the jaws jam during their free movement , when compression or expansion occurs. The reason is that chips, scale or debris have gotten under the figured part of the cams. To wedge it all, you need to remove and clean it all.

Regardless of the cause of the jamming, the first step is to lubricate the internal cavity of the cartridge. To do this, use the correct, special lubricant . WD-40 works well . This universal lubricant is also introduced onto the surface of the cams. They stand for 15 minutes, so they gently tap the chuck and jaws without excessive effort. If you tap with a simple hammer, then it must be done through a fabric pad, but it is better to use a rubber one.

When a bit jams in the chuck of a screwdriver of some brands, for example, Bosch, the problem is solved using 2 adjustable wrenches . But first, be sure to lubricate the parts. Use one key to grab the base of the cartridge, and use the other to carefully twist the top part. To avoid damaging anything, the procedure is performed through dense, soft tissue pads.

Disassembling the quick-release head

BZP or self-clamping cartridges can only be disassembled up to a certain stage, since beyond that, irreversible damage can be caused to the device. The analysis proceeds according to the following algorithm:

1. The groove between the two halves of the plastic coupling must be pushed apart along the entire circumference using a knife or flat-head screwdriver using gentle prying movements. The main thing is not to damage the case.
2. Once the coupling is in place, the lower part can be easily removed by hand.
3. After this, the cams are moved apart until they stop, and a long bolt is inserted into the cylinder.
4. You need to hit it with a hammer until the upper half of the coupling falls off.
5. There is no need to disassemble further. The cartridge does not have a body; it can be coated in all places.

Reassembly proceeds in the following sequence:

1. Upper part of the coupling.
2. Using a hammer, press the corkscrew washer into the groove between the coupling and the cylinder through a wooden board.

Groove for corkscrew washer

1. Manually put on the lower part of the coupling - the cartridge is assembled.

A detailed analysis of the quick-clamping cylinder is shown in the video:

Using Spring Wire

The opposite problem can also happen when the drill bit gets stuck in the workpiece. In this case, unscrewing the drill is not too difficult, but problems may arise with the available tools. There are several steps you need to take:

• Use a welding machine to heat the stuck part.
• Make grooves at opposite ends.
• Place the spring wire into the spiral groove.
• Start twisting the stuck drill until it starts to unscrew itself.
• Start removing the drill.

It is worth noting that you need to take out the drill slowly and slowly, since the work requires precision.

In order to avoid getting into such situations and not wondering how to remove a drill from a stuck drill chuck, you need to use the tool according to the instructions and follow all the rules. Well, if such a situation happens, you can re-read the article again and no longer wonder: the drill is stuck in the drill, how to get it out.

The nuances of removing, disassembling and replacing heads on screwdrivers from different manufacturers

The design of the screwdriver chuck is such that the procedure for its removal, disassembly and replacement is generally the same and standard for all models. The differences are only in the subtleties for each company.

1. Makita

Household tools from this manufacturer are often equipped with a plastic head. It should be removed carefully, because the risk of damage is higher than that of a metal sleeve. Quick-clamping devices on Makita screwdrivers are usually single-socket.

1. Bosch

The cylinders on Bosch screwdrivers are designed similarly to Makita and are removed and disassembled in the same way. The only difference is that Bosch has a fixing screw in the cylinder. It must be unscrewed clockwise.

1. Bison

To replace the cartridge, you need to unscrew it clockwise from the shaft.

Removing the head on screwdrivers of the Interskol, Hitachi, DeWalt, Metabo, and Vikhr models is not very diverse. The procedure is:

1. Unscrew the fixing screw using a Phillips screwdriver. It is recommended to lightly lubricate the pre-unscrewed element with WD-40. This will not only loosen the strong clamp, but will also dissolve any rust if there is any.
2. Clamp an L-shaped hex key of 10 mm or more with the short side into the chuck.
3. On the long side of the hexagon, it is worth applying one pointed blow with a hammer in a clockwise direction. It is necessary to hit the hexagon, and not the cylinder itself: this can break the clamping device and deform the screwdriver shaft.
4. After the impact, you can unscrew the cartridge by hand.

You only need to hit the hexagon

Selecting a New Tool

If the old cartridge could not be carefully disassembled and repaired, then it is necessary to replace it. You'll have to choose a new one. It should be noted that different types of cartridges can be installed in the design of screwdrivers. They can be keyed or keyless, as well as quick-clamping. The key product is different in that the clamp on it can be done better. Keyless chucks are not inferior in this parameter, but they have to be changed quite often, since the clamping mechanism very quickly becomes unusable.

If you have to frequently change the equipment when removing the chuck, it is preferable to choose a quick-clamping option, since if you replace the old part with it, you can save time on this procedure. When using large-diameter equipment, it is best to purchase a key chuck.

There are cartridges that are secured inside the device using a cone. They are also available with a key or are quick-release. The choice always remains solely with the buyer.

How to repair a clamping cylinder

Often the reason for removing and disassembling the screwdriver head is to repair individual parts and eliminate defects. Read more about how to do it yourself at home.

With backlash

If the deviation of the sleeve during operation does not exceed 1 mm, then this is not critical. If there is more play, you will need to disassemble the device. Repairing a screwdriver chuck for this case is performed as follows:

1. Unscrew the fasteners on the top cover of the tool and remove it.
2. Disconnect the engine from the gearbox and carefully check all fastenings.
3. Disassemble the gearbox. If the bushing fails, then it is the cause of the strong play. This part must be removed manually and replaced with a new one.

Disassembled gearbox

1. Next, you need to lubricate all the rubbing elements and assemble the gearbox back in a clear sequence: bushing - shaft - bearings - retaining ring.
2. The gearbox is attached in place to the engine.
3. The top cover of the screwdriver is screwed back.

When the cylinder runs out

If there is beating of the chuck in the screwdriver, the reason also lies in the gearbox. It must be dismantled, disconnected from the electric motor, disassembled, and carefully inspect all the parts. A broken cartridge case is a consequence:

• violations of shaft geometry;
• wear of gears, pins;
• failure of the shaft bearing.

After identifying the broken elements, you need to purchase new ones, install everything correctly, assemble the gearbox back and attach it to the engine.

When jammed

Another common problem is that the cartridge begins to jam. This is caused by the jaws losing full clamping over time. To repair the head, there are several methods:

1. Carefully lubricate the cylinder in all places - perhaps this is the only reason.
2. Squeeze the cartridge in your hand and hit it hard 1-2 times on a hard wooden object - a beam or a stable table.
3. Compress the body with a vice and the cylinder with a gas wrench. Place the screwdriver against the table with the chuck and turn it on.

Often the head jams after it becomes clogged with sawdust and other small debris. If there is a suspicion of clogging, the cylinder should be thoroughly heated with a hair dryer, or even better, held over an open fire for several minutes. The part is then thoroughly lubricated.

When scrolling

If the cartridge rotates, then the problem is most likely due to the abrasion of the teeth on the locking coupling. The problem is solved like this:

1. Remove the coupling.
2. In place of the ground teeth you need to drill small holes.

On the left is the coupling and its teeth.

1. Insert screws into the holes. Their protruding parts are removed with pliers.
2. Return the coupling to its place and check how the cylinder now moves.