Malfunctions and repairs of an electric planer: how to disassemble and reassemble, how to replace and tension the belt with your own hands, using the example of the famous Hammer RNK1200 planes, Interskol

The belt wears out and breaks on several occasions. If you use a planer frequently and for a long time, avoid using the tool with dull knives and start planing without allowing the engine to reach maximum speed. In this case, jerks and jams occur, the teeth on the belt break, and eventually, after a while, it breaks.

To replace the belt with a new one, first turn off the plane from the network. The screw that needs to be unscrewed is hidden on the side cover under a sticker.

Carefully peel off the sticker and use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw. We remove the cover and see the broken belt.

We first put the new copy on the small gear located on the right, and then pull it onto the large one, turning it.

We straighten the drive belt so that it is not skewed, insert the cover, tighten the bolt, and press the sticker.

We plug the Interskol plane into the network and begin work, first allowing the engine to develop maximum power. The drive belt is a consumable part of the tool, buy a couple of them and put them away until the next replacement. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Hello everyone. I present to your attention a plane from a Russian manufacturer, albeit made in China, INTERSKOL. You can read about the previous plane here Review of the plane. I took the older brother, since there was a lot of work to do. In principle, the device is very interesting, high-revving, but very heavy. After 3-4 hours of work, my wrist and biceps begin to hurt. The cord is long for power 220. Replacement blades are not expensive, ranging from 180 rubles to 670 rubles. It all depends on the steel. Of course, the plane, that is, the blades, does not like nails. Since I had to work with old boards, I lost a lot of blades. I changed the blades almost every week. Since there was no money for construction and I couldn’t buy wood at the sawmill, I dismantled old sheds on the plots and had to go through each board with a plane. Therefore, he saved me about 200,000 rubles. The work is, of course, hellish, but everything is for free, and I built the house almost for free.

So I recommend this device to everyone, maybe not this one, but its smaller brother. There is another plus here, this is that they can go through an inch board in one pass with a plane. The previous ones had to go through in two passes. The plane does not like wet wood. The hole where the chips come out is immediately clogged. This was not observed on the previous planer. You can also change the level of planing, from one millimeter to five millimeters.

Greetings to all! In the Interskol IZH R 102 M electric planer, the bearing in the cutter support fell apart. There are instructions, but the disassembly procedure is not described in it. Two points are unclear:

how to remove the cutter;
How to remove and install a pressed bearing.

PS: or is it cheaper not to suffer, but to take it to a service center for repairs?

I would recommend taking it to a service center.

Took it to service. The bearing has been replaced. For some reason unknown to me, the plane began to start jerkily. In the same repair shop, for 700 rubles, they offered to replace the soft start unit or throw it away altogether.

Shoko Hare wrote: For some reason unknown to me, the plane began to start jerkily.

How is it jerky? Is it picking up speed in jerks or is there some other problem?

As for the soft start unit - if the voltage jumps where you work - then it will be very inconvenient to work.

The plane picks up speed jerkily (you can hear it slowing down) and jerks in your hand (bounces) when picking up speed. Before the repair, the speed picked up in a few seconds, now it takes about half a minute. Unlikely to be caused by a power surge. This phenomenon was shown immediately after repairs in a workshop located in the city center, and is repeated at home, which is located in another area of the city, where such a phenomenon had not previously been observed. I can make a video.

look at the pulleys and belt

Shoko Hare wrote: Before the repair, the speed picked up in a few seconds, now it takes about half a minute.

Shoko Hare wrote: This phenomenon was shown immediately after repairs in the workshop

And what does the workshop say - this is normal? Let's have a video and we'll figure it out.

Starting the plane after a week's rest in a heated room:

Starting the plane after processing 3-5 linear meters of spruce at a temperature of about 10 degrees Celsius

Under the rear platform, there is a soft start unit that should not be there, bite off the wires and connect directly. If difficulties arise, then contact us. Diagnostics is free.

Shoko Hare wrote: The plane picks up speed in jerks (you can hear how it slows down) and jerks in your hand (bounces) when picking up speed. This phenomenon was shown immediately after repairs in the workshop

How can “such a phenomenon” be passed off as a repair?! This crap was invented precisely for safety and convenience in work. And then they give you a plane that is more dangerous and less convenient. For your own money. How so? Moreover, for the craftsmen in that very center of Tula, turning off this block takes five minutes. And I won’t ask - I’ll just warn you that I turned it off.

How to replace knives on an electric planer

To remove old bits, you need a set of wrenches.
A screwdriver may also come in handy. How to do:

turn the drum of the electrical appliance so that the bolts become accessible;
loosen the fixation;
remove the working attachment;
insert new blades into the vacated grooves;
secure them with bolts.

Important! To avoid imbalance, all cutting parts must be replaced at once. It's time for adjustments

To do this you need a complete hexagon and a metal ruler

Now it's time for adjustment. To do this, you need a complete hexagon and a metal ruler.

How to adjust electric planer blades:

Place the instrument on the table so that its drum faces upward.
If necessary, wipe off resin from cutting accessories.
Set the minimum planing depth.
Place the blade in the slot between the soles.
Place a ruler on the back plate.
See if its edge touches the consumable. If not, raise the bar. To do this, you can slightly loosen the fasteners using the hexagon from the kit.
Tighten fasteners.

All this needs to be done for each nozzle. For balance, the distance between the knives should be the same.

Correctly sharpening the knives of an electric planer yourself is not so difficult. If the situation is not critical, you can do everything manually using a sharpening stone. If the blade is completely dull, a special device is needed. You can purchase it or make it yourself.

Types of saw holders

Depending on the types of structures, the following types of saw holders are distinguished:

quick-release;
radial;
Bolt-on clamp mounting.

Quick release mount

The most popular option. Used on most modern models of electric jigsaws. They became widespread due to the ease of installation of the saw blade, for which you only need to press the locking key and remove the blade.

Radial clamp

It is the easiest to use. Equipped with a spring that returns the locking cams to their original position after replacing the blade. This type of clamp is equipped with the latest models of jigsaws.

Components

The electric planer is powered by connection to a network with alternating current, frequency 50 Hz and voltage 220 V. The safety of craftsmen working with the tool is ensured by a double layer of insulation. Therefore, a protective shutdown mechanism and grounding are not required.

commutator single-phase motor; cutters with flat knives; flat belt drive; frame; mechanism controlling planing depth; front movable support; lever; conductive cable with plug.

The main parts of an electric planer.

The electric motor housing must be attached to the equipment housing. Double insulation is ensured by insulating the armature shaft of the electric motor and using plastic to make the housing. The engine is cooled by a fan, which sucks air through slots on the housing cover. Air passes through the engine and is exhausted through holes in the intermediate shield.

A cutter with 2 flat knives is a cutting element of the structure. The knives are secured with bolts and a wedge. The cutter, using a belt drive from an electric motor, rotates in 2 bearings, which are pressed into the cover and body of the structure. The belt drive parts are driven and driven pulleys, which are connected by an endless belt 15 mm wide and 2 mm thick.

You can adjust the planing depth from 0 to 2 mm by turning the additional handle. The movable support will move along the guides of the unit body. The handles and electric motor are mounted on a common plate. It is moved by adjusting screws, ensuring the tension of the drive belt drive. The belt deflection should not exceed 2-4 mm. The main handle has a built-in radio interference suppressor and a latching switch.

Electric planer malfunctions

Essentially, an electric planer is a simple tool, but you shouldn’t repair it yourself, especially if the technician doesn’t understand household electrical appliances. It is better to give the device to repair specialists if the warranty period has not expired or contact a service center. Tool malfunctions are often associated with the use of:

Low-power tool for industrial processing. Excessive load causes the motor to overheat.
For roughing. Knots should be removed with another tool.

Common causes that can be covered under warranty:

blade wear;
tool sparking;
drive belt failure;
adjustment of the electric planer.

How the device works

Working posture when working with an electric planer.

The main element of an electric planer is a rotating drum on which flat knives are attached. It is necessary to select an electric motor for the equipment with a power of at least 580-900 W at a speed of 1000 rpm. since the texture of the wood being processed may be uneven, and the surface of the planed parts must be smooth.

The rotational movement from the motor is transmitted to the cutter using a toothed drive belt. The base of the equipment is made of cast aluminum. It is divided into 2 parts, in front and behind the cutter. The front part is adjustable in height, allows you to set the required chip thickness and moves along the untreated surface of the wood. The back part is stationary and moves along the planed surface.

The rotating drum of a large number of models is open on one side. The side limiter installed in most models allows you to select the width of the quarter. The unit can additionally be equipped with a protective folding cover on the side surface, which can be removed by selecting a quarter.

To disassemble the electric planer, remove:

device cover;
retaining rings;
gear parasitic, driving and driven wheels;
dowels

Step-by-step instructions for disassembling a rotary hammer

To eliminate any malfunction, except when the socket breaks, the device must be disassembled. The design of rotary hammers from manufacturers of different brands, including Energomash PE, Diold, Hammer, Stanley, Fatmax, Caliber, is similar, and therefore the disassembly schemes are similar. Experts do not recommend disassembling it completely; it will be difficult to reassemble. The process requires following step-by-step instructions.

Removing the cartridge

When disassembling the hammer drill, carefully inspect each removed part. To avoid problems later on how to properly assemble the hammer drill, it is recommended to photograph the process. If no external defects are found, they begin to dismantle the cartridge. First, remove the rubber boot, remove the retaining ring using a screwdriver, then remove the plastic boot.

Next they pull out:

washer;
plate;
spring;
ball.

If these parts are worn out, the drill will not hold in the chuck. Some cartridge models may contain additional washers and balls.

Disassembling the hammer drill chuck

Disassembling the case

Before disassembling the case, first remove the mode switch. It is put in “Strike” mode. If there is none, go to the “Blow + Drilling” position. Press the button, which is located on the switch handle, turn it just below the icon where the hammer is depicted. There should be a kind of clicking sound. Using a screwdriver, pull the switch towards you and remove it. In some models of rotary hammers, it is screwed to the body using screws.

Disassembling the electrical part

If you suspect a breakdown related to electrical components and elements, the tool will also have to be disassembled. Remove the back cover by unscrewing the screws that hold it in place. Unscrew the fasteners holding the wire. The wires, the start button, and the wires attached to the stator are pulled out of the fastenings. Unscrew the mounting bolts and take out the brushes. The housing is separated using a flat-head screwdriver. The rotor is removed from the gearbox. If it is necessary to replace bearings, use a special puller.

In the body of the electrical part of the tool there is an air intake, which is also removed. Disconnect the stator. It is easier to pull it out if you tap the body with something wooden.

When disassembling a barrel hammer drill, in which the electric drive is located vertically, first remove the handle, then the bolts that hold the motor.

Safety requirements

If you use the tool correctly, you can quickly and efficiently complete a fairly large amount of work. However, if you do not adhere to safety requirements, you can suffer significant injuries.

Before work, the workpiece must be securely fixed, otherwise it may move or even fly off during work.
During the technical inspection of the blades and their adjustment, the electric planer must be de-energized by unplugging the cord and plug from the socket, because accidental starting can lead to very unfavorable consequences.
You need to start processing only after the knives have started and warmed up, that is, the cutting elements must accelerate to the required speed.
The instrument must be placed exclusively on its side.

Adviсe

In order for the electric jigsaw to work flawlessly for as long as possible, you should follow simple operating rules. Namely:

Do not over-tighten the blade clamps

This can lead to thread breakage and premature failure;

It is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the saw blade. Its dullness can lead not only to loss of sawing quality, charring of the ends of the workpiece, but also to overheating and failure of the electric motor;

lubricate the jigsaw roller according to the manufacturer's recommendations

Otherwise, it's a sign of overheating and engine jamming;

Do not press too hard on the instrument. In this case, the saw clamp may be damaged;

do not overheat the tool. Since the electric motor is air-cooled, the frequency of its continuous operation is 20-30 minutes, depending on the power and model.

Hobby: how to choose a hand plane and set it up for work

What man doesn't love making things with his own hands? This is a process comparable to meditation, and for the result to be no less pleasant, it is important to select a tool and have everything you need at hand. Today we'll answer some of the most common questions about how to complete your home toolkit, and we'll be talking about the old trusty hand plane.

The main one is plane No. 4 (the plane number is usually indicated on the tool itself). The number 3 plane is practically the same and is usually considered a beginner's or women's plane, so its presence in the master's home set, by and large, is not entirely necessary.

Starting from number 5, it’s not quite planes in their pure form, but rather semi-jointers, which usually include tools with a sole up to 60 cm. Number five is quite versatile and is suitable for a variety of tasks, for which English craftsmen, for example, They gave him the name Jack (Jack in English folklore is considered a jack of all trades). Its fundamental difference from the “four” is the longer sole. “Six” is a semi-jointer that already has all the features of a jointer, for example, a wide, long sole. It is usually used to level large surfaces when it is required that it be level, but perfection is not needed. If the strength and weight are enough, choose number 6, otherwise take the “five”.

There are also numbers 7 and 8, but their presence in the home set is at the discretion of the master. “Seven” is still a full-fledged semi-jointer, and “eight” is such a specific tool with a large and long sole for craftsmen with great strength and weight.

If you move in the other direction from the main plane No. 4, then the next plane you need in your set is the so-called end plane, the smallest of the entire family. Its sole is 2 times smaller than that of the “four”, it easily fits in one hand. The main advantage of this plane is precisely its ergonomics - the fact that it fits so comfortably in the hand, while the master’s hands are as close as possible to the area of action of the tool. The closer, the more accurate the movements.

Thus, the minimum set of hand planes for a home craftsman would be a set consisting of a “four”, an end plane and a number 5 or 6 - depending on your personal preferences. The remaining intermediate options are purchased as needed and depending on the work performed. Now let's move on to the setup.

How to set up a plane for work

When buying a new plane, don’t be lazy and immediately buy a screwdriver for it. There are 2 screws on the plane that are involved in setting up the tool - the corresponding slotted screwdriver should be selected. Preference should be given to screwdrivers with a short handle - they will be more convenient to adjust.

When buying a plane, make sure that the so-called eye does not dangle. Then, at home, you need to tighten all the screws on the instrument, since they could have become loose during transportation and storage of the product - due to temperature changes, shaking, etc. The most popular now are double hand planes designed for fine planing. Their knife consists of two parts - the knife itself and the chipbreaker, the gap between them needs to be adjusted so that it is minimal, about a millimeter.

And one more trick in setting: the top screw of the plane, which controls the eccentric, or latch, must be tightened so much that the latch is done with force, but with one finger. If you do not tighten it enough, then the plane knife, or as it is popularly called, the piece of iron, will crawl inside during operation and will cease to perform its function. If you tighten this screw, as many people like to do, then adjusting the knife will become more difficult, and you need to adjust it after adjusting the screws, when the plane is already in a state ready for work.

To adjust the knife, you need to use the latch to adjust it so that it protrudes from the hole in the sole by 1-2 millimeters. Usually the knife is first set with a small margin, its shoulders and angle are adjusted, and then it is gradually removed, visually leaving the desired protrusion. To do this, in each subsequent position you need to look along the sole of the plane until you reach the required 1-2 millimeters of the length of the knife looking out from the opening of the sole.

source

Why does a chainsaw smoke as soon as it starts, and then stops, is this normal or not?

A chainsaw is a simple device that, with proper care, can last a long time. At the same time, the saw is a tool subject to various loads and, therefore, breakdowns still occur. You will learn about what caused a certain malfunction and how to fix it from this article.

Necessary skills and tools for repair

Most of the malfunctions of gasoline chain saws can be fixed with your own hands. True, this requires an understanding of the structure of the chainsaw and how the components function among themselves. As for the tools, the most often needed are:

screwdrivers (slotted and power);
combination wrench included in the kit or regular wrenches with heads of various sizes.

Repair it yourself or send it to a service center

It is worth understanding that not every problem can be solved on your own. Not every chainsaw owner has a compression gauge at home or a special device that allows you to create a vacuum and the required pressure, for example, to check the crankcase for leaks. In this case, you simply cannot avoid contacting specialized specialists.

Troubleshooting algorithm

If you are absolutely sure that you can assemble the chainsaw after disassembling, then a screwdriver is in your hands. To determine the true cause of the problem, it is necessary to analyze the condition and behavior of the saw.

Engine

In most cases, the following problems occur in engine operation:

the engine stopped starting;
the engine starts, but after a while it stalls;
the engine is not able to develop the required power;
The engine is extremely unstable.

How to check crankshaft seals

The presence of oil seal leaks can only be checked by getting to the crankshaft itself and carefully examining it for leaks. You can see how to do this correctly in the video:

How to check compression on a chainsaw

At a compression level below 8 atmospheres, the engine will not have enough power, which means the chainsaw will not be able to fully function.

To measure compression you need:

Remove the protective cover and unscrew the spark plug.
Insert the tip of the compression gauge into the hole where the spark plug should be located.
Using the starting cord, rotate the piston and remember the maximum readings of the measuring device.

How to properly install a piston on a chainsaw

The work of replacing the piston for most models of modern chainsaws is carried out according to the following algorithm:

The top and side covers are removed.
The candle is unscrewed.
The stoppers are removed from the shock absorbers and the handle is disconnected from the body.
The drive sprocket and starter are removed.
A piston stopper is installed in the spark plug hole and the nut securing the flywheel and clutch is unscrewed.
The flywheel, clutch, and worm drive of the oil pump, located immediately behind the clutch mechanism, are removed.
The screws securing the carburetor and air filter are unscrewed, after which these components are removed along with the engine control lever.
The ignition coil is removed, as well as the muffler.
The saw is turned upside down and, by unscrewing the screws securing it to the body, the engine is disconnected.
The pan is unscrewed and the piston is removed.
Since the piston is removed only together with the crankshaft, to disconnect it it is necessary to remove the retaining rings.
The old piston is replaced with a new one, but as carefully as possible. This is caused by the high fragility of compression rings.
The crankcase is put in place, and sealant is used instead of a gasket.

All subsequent actions are carried out according to the reverse algorithm of disassembly.

Factory and household running-in of chainsaws

Run-in is conventionally divided into two types: household, carried out by the owner of the chainsaw after purchase, and factory, which the tool undergoes after production and assembly at the manufacturer.

Factory running-in is carried out by the manufacturer - during this period the piston group is broken in, and all parameters of the chainsaw are monitored by specialists. High-price chainsaws are usually equipped with chrome-plated pistons, which extends their service life and increases wear resistance.

Oil and gasoline: features of fuel preparation

Two-stroke engines on various chainsaws do not run on pure gasoline, but on a mixture of motor oil and gasoline. If the operating instructions for the tool do not indicate the exact proportion of gasoline and oil, prepare the mixture in a ratio of 25:1; by default, use AI-92 gasoline and oil for two-stroke air-cooled engines, for example, Oleo-Mac Prosint 2T, Stihl HP, Vitals Semisynthetic, CHAMPION JASO FD or others.

During the first break-in phase, use a 40:1 or 50:1 ratio, that is, reduce the proportion of oil in the mixture, if the owner's manual does not indicate how much oil and gasoline is needed. It is prohibited to use waste oils, poor quality oils, counterfeits, diesel oils and various homemade substitutes for running in and further operation of the chainsaw. The use of low-quality lubricants will lead to rapid failure of the chainsaw engine and its saw part.

Even a properly prepared fuel mixture should not be stored for more than a month inside the saw’s gas tank or more than two months in a canister. Do not prepare large quantities of fuel; it is better to prepare a fresh mixture before using the tool.

Preparing for the first launch

Preparation for the first start is carried out by visually inspecting the tool, checking the correct assembly and installation of all parts of the chainsaw.

The first start of the chainsaw is carried out according to the following approximate scheme:

after preparing the fuel mixture, pour it into the tank;
the brake handle is retracted, placing the chain brake in the non-working position;
open the air damper;
the ignition is turned on;
holding the chainsaw by the handle with one hand, pull the starter cord with the other hand;
When the engine starts, you should press the speed button and wait until the saw reaches full throttle, and then release it to idle.

Carburetor adjustment

For stable operation of the chainsaw, sooner or later you will need to adjust the carburetor

Please note that carburetor adjustments while the saw is under warranty are performed by service center specialists

After starting the saw, adjusting screws are used to adjust the carburetor.

Figure 1. Location of carburetor adjustment screws.

Sequence of actions when adjusting the carburetor:

after starting, screws L and H are turned all the way, and then each screw is unscrewed one and a half turns in the opposite direction;
then let the chainsaw run for about 5-10 minutes;
idle speed is set with screw T;
If the setting is done correctly, the chain will not rotate on the bar at idle.

Recommendations for the initial break-in stage

At the initial stage of running in a chainsaw, adhere to the following rules:

the bar and chain should always be lubricated with special saw lubricant;
It is forbidden to run in the entire saw at idle speed, since when the engine is running, oil must flow to the sawing parts of the chainsaw, but this does not happen in idle mode;
when the first 5-7 hours have been completed, drain the remaining fuel mixture from the chainsaw and mix a fresh mixture;
try not to overload the tool during the first 4-5 fuel fills, work in moderate mode, and also refrain from sawing logs with a diameter of more than 40 cm.

Features of running in Chinese chainsaws

In general, the process of running in Chinese saws is not much different from running in branded chainsaws from well-known manufacturers, especially when it comes to new generation saws manufactured in modern Chinese factories.

When testing a Chinese chainsaw, we advise you to pay attention to:

oil quality (do not use cheap oils and lubricants, Chinese chainsaws are sensitive to cheap fuels and lubricants);
It is not advisable to adjust the carburetor yourself even after the warranty expires;
if any part can be replaced, replace it without a doubt, Chinese chainsaws are difficult to repair, and installing a new spare part will save you the time needed to work with the chainsaw.

We recommend watching videos from owners of chainsaws of similar models to get a better idea of the nuances of how Chinese chainsaws work.

What is a spark plug and why should you change it?

The part itself is responsible for igniting the air-fuel mixture. It is necessary to change the spark plug when there are problems with the operation of the motor (it works, but is unstable); this procedure is also necessary when the tool simply stops starting.

It is also recommended to replace spark plugs for Husqvarna chainsaws and for power units from other manufacturers every hundred hours of operation of the chainsaw. This is a consumable spare part that wears out due to:

using low quality oil (electrons, side and central, will be covered with black soot);
a poorly tuned carburetor or a broken starting system (because of this, we fill the spark plug with the fuel mixture);
the carburetor has failed (no fuel will flow to the ignition spark plug, which causes problematic starting of the tool’s engine).

Varieties of candles

There is no such thing as universal candles. They differ from each other in a number of parameters:

body geometry;
thread diameter;
thread length (shirt length, as the craftsmen call it).

There are also such concepts as “warm” and “cold” candles. A high heat number indicates that the spark plug is cold (it absorbs the heat that comes from the combustion chamber less efficiently), a low heat number indicates that the spark plug is hot.

When replacing a spark plug or purchasing a new spare part, the easiest way is to look for one that corresponds to the parameters declared by the manufacturer (these parameters are indicated in the instructions that accompany the tool). If for some reason you do not have access to the data, conduct a visual inspection of the spark plug, remove the parameters, including the number (glow) indicated on it.

At the moment, on the modern market you can find candles produced under the brands Champion, Shtil, Brisk, Bosch, Oregon, NGK, there are also certain options that are suitable for models produced by Partner, Husqvarna, Stiga, AL-KO, Oleo-mac , Wolf Garten, Mc Culloch, etc. At the same time, do not forget that you need to know the gap on the chainsaw spark plug.

To remove the necessary parameters, you need to dismantle this element. It is easy to unscrew it using a spark plug wrench, which is standard part of the power unit.

How to properly align knives on an electric planer?

25-01-2015
17
994

In the age of modernization, the market is rich in various construction tools that simplify and speed up the work process. Also, not a single repair or construction can be done without an electric planer.

Each tool has additional components, but for a plane these additional elements are knives, with which the wood is processed. These knives are double-sided and come in a set of two pieces.

If the cutting elements become difficult to remove chips, it means that they have become inoperative and need to be sharpened.

But, before you start disassembling the tool, you need to know how to position the knives on the electric planer

In this regard, it is important to study in detail the principles of disassembling a plane

Installing knives: recommendations

The cutting elements are mounted on the plane drum, which rotates. The purpose of the knives is to plan the top layers of wood during the processing of products. This design is equipped with one or two cutting elements.

The knives standing last are rotary; if necessary, their position can be easily changed if one of the sides is dull. Electric planer knives are made from tungsten carbide or tool steel.

Products made of steel can be re-sharpened.

The blades have different configurations and are divided by shape:

Straight - they are installed when selecting quarters and when processing small parts.
Rounded - used when planing wide areas of parts, since the transitions between planed lines are made smoothly.
Wave-shaped - similar knives are used when simulating antiquity on wood.

Diagram of options for sharpening a plane knife: a – on a whetstone, b – on a whetstone, c – position of the cutter blade chamfer when sharpening on a whetstone, d – sharpening on a whetstone disk using a stop device.

Before you start working with an electric planer, you need to make sure that the knives are installed correctly. If any errors were found, then you need to correctly align the knives on the electric planer.

The cutting part of the element should be located parallel to the sole of the plane and protrude slightly upward.

Typically, the cutting part of the knife protrudes 0.5 mm above the level of the sole. But the sherhebel, which is used for the first rough planing, its cutting edge, is produced by at least 1 mm. Adjustments can be made without problems.

In this case, it is important to alternately turn the small and large adjusting screw to the right and left until the cutting part is in place. These screws are located on the back of the platform designed for the electric planer blade.

After all the manipulations, the knife is installed in the tool itself and fixed with centering fasteners on the top plate. If the electric planer is new, then, as a rule, its knives are adjusted, but when using the tool, the settings get lost.

It is also important to remember that immediately after setting it up, it is not recommended to work immediately on the parts without first trying the tool on an unnecessary board

Types of planes

A plane is a hand-held tool for working wood, allowing you to bring the surface of a product with your own hands to the required quality and size. Having the entire set of types of this tool, you can not only process the surface, but also make various carpentry crafts.

The planer has a whole arsenal of types:

sherhebel;
jointer;
semi-jointer;
mole cricket;
sander;
tzinubel;
end;
single;
double.

zenzubel;
federgubel;
folding belt;
stabgobel or stabgaltel;
tongue and groove;
mold;
primer;
humpback

Having a full set of hand tools, if desired, you can make works of wood of any complexity. At the same time, an important factor for successful work is sharpening planer knives with your own hands, which is an expensive production service.

Correction of the “frog” anatomy

Turn the “frog” so that the lever does not interfere with the work, and sand part of the plane. Then move the lever to the other side and sand the rest.

In order for the “frog” to reliably hold the blade at a certain angle, it must have tight contact with both the blade and the body. Place the “frog” on the contact pad in the case - it should fit tightly and remain absolutely stable. Even the slightest sway is unacceptable. If you feel some instability, apply a little car engine valve grinding paste (available at car dealerships) to the underside of the frog. Having secured the body in a vice, move the “frog” back and forth along the contact pad until it stands stable. Wash off all dirt and paste residues with white spirit. Then flatten the top side of the frog where the blade fits. Place a sheet of 120-grit sandpaper on a flat piece of glass and lightly secure the glass using a bench vise, stops, and wood blocks. Move the adjustment lever aside and sand the front surface of the frog on the edge of a sheet of sandpaper (Photo E). Check your results often. When the entire surface is shiny, move on to 220-grit sandpaper to remove any rough marks.

Now it's time to work on the chipbreaker and blade

Irregularities at the leading edge of the chipbreaker create gaps in which chips get stuck, and this affects the quality of the planing.

The chipbreaker (as its name suggests) breaks the chips at a certain point, thereby preventing the formation of cracks in the wood under the wedging action of the blade. A damaged or worn chipbreaker (photo F) will hinder the planing process, preventing proper chip removal and a smooth surface. Carefully correct the shape of the leading edge of the chipbreaker by following the steps shown in (photos G and H).

Using the edge of a bench to hold the chipbreaker at an angle, sand the inside of the leading edge using 120 and 220 grit sandpaper.

Place the chipbreaker in the sharpening fixture at an angle so that the sharpening plane is tangent to the bend line, and sand the leading edge with 120 and 220 grit sandpaper.

Then start sharpening the blade (old or new) using your usual method. Having various sizes of sandpaper on hand, John used it to chamfer the blade at an angle of 25°, using 120-grit abrasives in succession; 220 and 320 grits, and then sanded the micro-bevel on the cutting edge at a 30° angle with 2000 grit sandpaper (Photos I and J).

Sand the back side using 220 grit paper; 320 and 2000. A sheet of fine-grain paper is held in place by friction.

Sharpen using paper No. 120 until a continuous chamfer is formed. Then make several movements in succession with 220-grit abrasives; 320 and 2000 units.

The new chainsaw does not start after running in

Sometimes, after a new chainsaw has been run-in, the tool has stood for a while and has completely cooled down, attempts to start it do not give any results, it simply does not start. A common reason for this situation is that the carburetor was not adjusted after break-in. A ground-in engine does not require enriched fuel to operate, and this can often cause fuel overflow, which in turn will affect engine starting. The following algorithm of actions will help deal with this problem:

Unscrew the spark plug and inspect it. A wet spark plug is a confirmation of fuel overflow; to be on the safe side, you should immediately check the spark plug for sparking to rule out other possible causes.
Turning the chainsaw over and turning off the ignition, pull the starter handle several times, this is necessary to remove excess fuel from the system that has accumulated there during unsuccessful starting attempts.
Reinstall the spark plug.
Adjust screw H, to do this, tighten it completely, then turn it out one turn.
Launch the tool.

As a rule, after carrying out the above steps, the chainsaw starts and works without any deviations from the norm.

Fuel system

Malfunctions of the fuel system are also quite often the main reason that prevents a chainsaw from working as efficiently as possible. First of all, you need to check the quality of the fuel mixture.

Gasoline leaks from a chainsaw

If gasoline drops periodically appear on the body of the chainsaw, then it is necessary to check the tightness of the fuel tank. Over time, it may dry out. Or the gasket has become “stiff” and it can no longer perform its direct function.

If full-fledged gasoline streams appear, then there is a high probability that you will have to change the burst hose connecting the carburetor and the fuel tank.

Gasoline does not enter the chainsaw cylinder

There are several reasons why the fuel mixture stopped flowing into the cylinder:

The air filter is clogged.
The carburetor settings have been lost.
The carburetor membrane is no longer intact.
The channels through which gasoline is transported are clogged.

Chainsaw won't idle

In this case, you should start looking for a problem with the filter elements. For the most part, it is precisely because of the reduced capacity of the air and gasoline filters that the idle speed begins to “float”.

If everything is in order with the filters, then you need to check the components of the gas supply system, and also make sure that there are no spontaneous changes in the carburetor settings.

Cleaning, polishing, dirt, sweat... and electrolysis?

All this cannot be avoided - to clean a rusty plane, you will have to sweat. John's preferred cleaning method is using fine steel wool and Work Rust Free, which gets into every nook and cranny (photo B).

Allow the rust remover to soak in for 30 seconds before scraping off the residue with a steel wool swab. Then wipe the surfaces with white spirit.

A drill with a polishing attachment will help you quickly clean brass nuts to a shine.

To combat stubborn rust and paint marks, it is better to use fine-grained sandpaper or a drill with abrasive, brush and polishing attachments (photo C).

If these methods seem too slow, try electrolysis.

Algorithm for replacing knives on an electric planer

To remove the knives from the electric planer and replace them with new ones (or properly sharpened ones), you will need a set of wrenches, and also, in some cases, a screwdriver. There is no need to completely assemble and disassemble the electric plane to change working attachments. Replacement is performed in the following sequence:

rotate the drum, placing it in such a position to gain access to the knife mounting bolts;
loosen, but not completely, these bolt clamps;

remove the working attachment manually or using a flat screwdriver;
the rest of the blades are treated in a similar way;
place new knives in the sockets, securing them with bolts;
put them in the correct position.

The main point is the need to place the blades exactly in the sockets and securely fix them so that they do not fall out while using the tool. Due to the fact that different models of electric planers may have different attachments for working attachments, it is recommended that you first read the operating instructions for the equipment you are using.

When there are two cutting attachments installed on the drum of an electric planer, both need to be changed at once. This will prevent the occurrence of an imbalance, which results in a decrease in the quality of lumber processing and failure of the electric planer.

First, determine whether the game is worth the candle

The plane John chose to restore had minor external defects, but showed visible signs of heavy use - clear evidence of the plane's outstanding performance (Photo A).

When planning to tidy up your plane, completely disassemble it and inspect it carefully.

Rust. You shouldn't pay too much attention to it, as it can be easily removed. But if small parts are heavily corroded by rust or, as a result of corrosion, screws, levers and other adjustment elements are jammed, and deep cavities have formed on the sole, it is better to refrain from restoration. mouth or broken lever, forget about repairs.
Lack of details. Spare parts for most bench planes can be found by purchasing new ones from catalogs of specialized companies or old ones at online auctions (look at the picture below to find out the name of the plane). But if the cost of replacing a part exceeds the cost of a new plane, it makes sense to think about the feasibility of repairs.

What does a plane consist of?

Paint will prevent rust from returning

Masking tape covers areas that are not to be painted. Carefully trim off the excess tape with a knife, starting from the middle and moving the blade along the edge.

In the old days, most plane manufacturers protected metal parts from corrosion using special paints, the composition of which was kept secret and lost. Instead, John uses modern paints with anti-corrosion properties, such as Rustoleum Black.

First of all, you should protect the sole, cheeks of the body and the contact pad for installing the “frog” with masking tape (photo D). Tape the flat areas where the blade meets the frog and body, as well as the bottom of the clamp that contacts the chipbreaker. Then spray apply two to three coats of paint to all exposed surfaces of the body, frog, and clamp. Let the paint dry completely and remove the masking tape.

Components

The power supply of the electric gun allows it to be connected to an alternating current network, frequency 50 Hz and voltage 220 V. The safety of craftsmen working with the tool is ensured by a double layer of insulation. Therefore, a safety mechanism and grounding are not needed.

Construction details:

single-phase motor assembly;
flat blade knives;
one-time transfer;
body;
A mechanism that controls the depth of planning;
advanced mobile support;
pen;
conductive cable with plug.

Main parts of an electric gun.

The motor housing must be attached to the equipment body.

Components

commutator single-phase motor;
cutters with flat knives;
flat belt drive;
frame;
mechanism controlling planing depth;
front movable support;
lever;
conductive cable with plug.

The main parts of an electric planer.

Construction drawings

Drawings of the frame to which all the parts of the structure being created will be attached are given below.

The part being processed will rest on the surface of the plate, secured with 10 bolts to a frame welded from steel angles. There is a groove cut in it for a drum with knives. To guide the workpieces and prevent their lateral movement, a square is also attached to the base plate with M8 screws.

The shaft with knives (working drum) will be attached under the table top with M6 screws. To do this, bearings will be placed at its ends, which will be fixed to the plate with special fasteners. The movement from the electric motor to the working drum will be carried out due to a belt drive.

The motor is installed inside the frame on a shelf made of two steel strips, with holes drilled in them of the appropriate diameter for the frame mounting bolts.

It should be taken into account that the slots for the engine mounts (mounting grooves) need to be made several centimeters wide (2-3) in order to be able to tension the transmission belt.

Safety requirements

If you use the tool correctly, you can quickly and efficiently complete a fairly large amount of work. However, if you do not adhere to safety requirements, you can suffer significant injuries.

Before work, the workpiece must be securely fixed, otherwise it may move or even fly off during work.
During the technical inspection of the blades and their adjustment, the electric planer must be de-energized by unplugging the cord and plug from the socket, because accidental starting can lead to very unfavorable consequences.
You need to start processing only after the knives have started and warmed up, that is, the cutting elements must accelerate to the required speed.
The instrument must be placed exclusively on its side.

When do you need to adjust or replace electric planer knives?

The knives on an electric planer wear out over time. They need to be removed and sharpened or replaced altogether, and then installed back on the drum. Newly installed cutting attachments need to be adjusted in order to process lumber as efficiently as possible. The blades of new power tools also need to be pre-adjusted before use.

The following signs indicate that adjustment is necessary:

change in sound when processing workpieces;
vibration of the tool during operation;
deterioration in the quality of planing lumber (formation of waves, chips, grooves, protruding fibers and other defects);
increase in effort spent on work.

If, after adjusting the blade blades, the symptoms discussed above do not disappear, then more serious repairs to the power tool will be required.

Setting the correct position of the cutting attachments is carried out according to the following parameters:

the height of the part of the blade that protrudes above the sole of the power tool;
the size of the side protrusion of the knife intended for picking out quarters.

By correctly adjusting the position of the knife blades on the drum, high final quality of lumber processing is achieved.

How to properly adjust knives

Adjusting the knives on the drum yourself is not a big problem. To set the position of the tool blades before work, you will need:

hex wrench included with the plane;
metal ruler or piece of glass of suitable size.

The setup is carried out by performing all operations in this sequence.

Turn the electric planer over, placing it upside down on a table or workbench.

If necessary, remove resin deposits from the nozzles using a solvent.
Set the front part of the sole to a position that provides the minimum planing depth.
Rotate any blade, placing it in the slot between the plates.
A ruler is placed on the surface of the base plate. If the cutting edge does not touch it, then the knife bar is raised to the desired level, loosening (slightly) the fastening bolts using a hexagon.
After alignment, tighten the fasteners.
The procedure is repeated with all attachments, while setting gaps of the same size to prevent imbalance of the drum and vibration of the power tool during operation.
By turning the drum by hand, determine the ease of its rotation.
Check the correctness of the settings on the unnecessary workpiece.

What you need for DIY repairs

You will need a screwdriver with slots that exactly fit the cover screws. This is important, since an unsuitable screwdriver can twist the slots, and then it will not be possible to unscrew the screws. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use a screwdriver with a suitable bit.

The splines on different planes can be simple (slot-strip), cross-slots of different sizes, with an internal hexagon or an asterisk. In the latter case, the kit should include a special key for the original splines. If you don’t have one, you can choose a suitable one from universal sets.

To replace the bearing, you will need a box or socket wrench for the pulley lock nut.

Algorithm for replacing knives on an electric planer

rotate the drum, placing it in such a position to gain access to the knife mounting bolts;
loosen, but not completely, these bolt clamps;

remove the working attachment manually or using a flat screwdriver;
the rest of the blades are treated in a similar way;
place new knives in the sockets, securing them with bolts;
put them in the correct position.

Necessary tool

The fundamental structure of this element is the same on all modern chainsaws. However, the technical execution differs, so different brands and models may require different tools.

To remove the clutch on all chainsaws you need:

A screwdriver for removing the locking ring of the gear cover from the shaft,
Depending on the model, you will need a regular wrench to unscrew the centrifugal mechanism itself (drum), or a wrench with two cotter pins, like the one used to tighten the nuts on an angle grinder.
The stopper is required in order to fix the flywheel shaft (crankshaft) on which the centrifugal mechanism is screwed.

It is not advisable to use hard metal; it can damage the piston. Weak materials such as plastic should also not be used. They can break, crumble and get into the cylinder windows, carburetor cavity or crankcase. Then you will need to completely disassemble the engine to get them out, and these are unnecessary problems.

Don't have a puller? Then we use the rope as a stopper

The most common type of stopper is a piece of rope. The spark plug is unscrewed, the piston is brought closer to the top dead center (TDC), a piece of rope is inserted into the spark plug hole and sealed. The piston is gently fixed, while the shaft on which the coupling basket is screwed does not rotate, which allows the threaded connection to be unscrewed.

This is what the original stopper from Stihl looks like, but you can just as easily use a free option - a rope from a starter with knots. 1-2 knots are enough.