The bluing of weapons is considered by hunters in two ways: for some it is style, beautiful execution, for others it is practicality. Blued metal is much more resistant to corrosion; the blued shade is an additional camouflage. Blueing will restore the appearance of a battered weapon, completely protect it from rust, and protect it from mechanical damage and abrasions. It is not always possible for a shooter to purchase a gun that is already blued. Many hunters blue their weapons themselves using a variety of methods.
Advantages of steel blueing
The final goal of the procedure is to form a thin oxide layer on the metal. The thickness of the formed film is determined by the chosen bluing technique and varies from 1 to 10 micrometers.
The use of this technology allows:
- give the product an interesting and aesthetic appearance;
- create a protective layer against rust.
Home bluing of steel allows you to make more durable and beautiful items from inexpensive material.
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Technologies and safety requirements for home bluing
Simple and popular methods of decorating steel surfaces include:
- alkaline effect;
- acid treatment;
- thermal bluing.
Regardless of the type of exposure, it is necessary to follow safety precautions and acquire protective equipment: a mask (goggles), an apron and gloves. This is especially important during chemical processing.
In addition, it is important to equip the place of work with high-quality ventilation or a powerful exhaust hood, and purchase containers made of material that is resistant to strong reagents. These can be vessels made of porcelain, ceramics, earthenware, glass. For prolonged boiling, it is convenient to use stainless steel containers.
The container should be selected so that its volume is sufficient to completely cover the product with the working solution.
Recommendations
You yourself can choose a way to blacken metal at home, each of them can lead to a very high-quality result. A container is almost always needed. Best suited: porcelain, durable glass (if heating is not needed), galvanized stainless steel. Attach hooks to the edges of the tank: you will need them to secure the part.
Another tip: degrease not only the workpiece itself, but also the container for the procedure. This can be acetone, gasoline, kerosene or a special composition. The main thing is that they are inert towards steel, that is, they do not enter into a chemical reaction with it. Be sure to be responsible when choosing a location; it should be a room with excellent ventilation. Otherwise, you may be exposed to dangerous, toxic fumes. Additional protection - a respirator, goggles to protect the mucous membrane of the eyes, gloves.
An important preliminary step when using any method is to remove rust and dirt before applying the metal blackening agent. It can be done using sandpaper or a grinder with a special attachment. In extreme cases, etching can be used.
We recommend carefully choosing which product can be used for a particular type of material. If you follow our tips correctly, you can get excellent results at home.
Preparing products for processing
Regardless of which method will be used for decorative processing of steel surfaces, a responsible approach to performing the work requires high-quality preliminary preparation.
The result of steel bluing directly depends on it. To obtain an even coating, the surface of the product must first be cleaned of any existing dirt, rust or old oxide layer.
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Sanding the product, as well as degreasing parts using a regular solvent, gasoline or acetone, will help cope with this task.
Blackening aluminum at home: means, methods, procedures, tips
[Anodizing aluminum at home] with your own hands is necessary if you want the material to be protected from corrosion and last as long as possible.
Aluminum is very often used in home production and everyday life, so knowing how to protect it yourself without resorting to the help of specialists will be useful for everyone.
Thanks to anodization, a dense and thick oxide film appears on the metal surface, which protects it from corrosion and other negative factors of the natural environment.
Thin-layer anodizing technology, which you will learn about in this article, will help you create the most durable and resistant film.
What is the essence of the procedure?
Before you start blackening aluminum at home, you should understand what the meaning of this process is.
According to experts, its essence is to create conditions in which a film of iron oxide would form on a metal surface. Depending on which method of aluminum bluing was chosen, its thickness can range from 1 to 10 microns.
There are three ways to influence metal. Consequently, blackening of aluminum at home can be thermal, acidic or alkaline. In the first case, the product is heated, and in the other two it is processed in an appropriate solution.
During bluing, the tarnish colors on the surface will change. The master only needs to decide on the desired color of oxidation and stop the process in time.
Aluminum blackening
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You didn't receive an email with an activation code? There is another method applicable to blackening any metal parts, it seems to me that it is unfairly not considered. The part is carefully For those in a hurry, if you smear a thick layer with an oil finger, for example, you can get burnt flakes or drips, and if you do not degrease before lubrication with oil, you get uneven spots For lubrication, hemp oil is highly recommended, does it squash the part more?? Then the part is placed in an oven heated to C if it is large, or simply in the center of a gas burner and heated until the desired shade of color is obtained in minutes. Often, lubricating-heating cycles need to be carried out on steel or duralumin, usually it is possible to achieve the desired result on the second or third attempt. With some experience the color of the part turns out to be very good. For those who are especially lazy, we can recommend degreasing the part, decapitating it in any known way, then covering it with a natural, non-synthetic one!
Liquid for blackening aluminum (aluminum alloys) surfaces Aluminum Black and similar pencils.
About ferric chloride
Judging by the reviews, some home craftsmen etch printed circuit boards and thus obtain a liquid for blackening aluminum. Next, shiny metal parts are lowered into this mining for a certain time.
Those who are interested in how to blacken aluminum at home can be advised not to complicate the process by etching the boards, but to immediately acquire ferric chloride to make the required solution.
You can work with this method both with aluminum and with duralumin, steel and brass.
Judging by the reviews, aluminum surfaces are best blackened. With duralumin the situation is somewhat worse. Steel ones, according to the craftsmen, practically do not blacken.
However, they develop a specific coating that can be confused with rust. However, the steel surface is no longer so shiny and looks much better.
Brass products after treatment in ferric chloride also do not become black, but acquire a matte reddish tint.
How to burnish with iron chloride? Where to begin?
If small-sized aluminum products are to be processed, then you can limit yourself to 15-20 grams of this substance. Blackening aluminum at home using ferric chloride consists of several stages. First of all, you should prepare everything for work. First, ferric chloride is diluted with water.
It is important that the mixture is easy to spread. To make it thick and not spread, you need to take a small amount of water. Next, the solution must be given time to brew. During this time, you can prepare the product itself for bluing: remove dirt and dust from its surface, and then degrease it.
Judging by the reviews, it is enough to wash it under the tap with soap.
Patination and oxidation of copper
PATINATION is most often used.
sulfur liver and ammonium sulphide or OXIDATION
nitric acid.
PATINATION
sulfur liver
The composition of sulfur liver includes potash and sulfur. Sulfur is flammable and therefore requires careful handling. Its vapors with air form explosive mixtures. Sulfur should be stored in a dry place, isolated from oxidizing agents (sulfuric acid, potassium permanganate, berthollet salt). Doses of potash and sulfur may vary. Most often, 1 part sulfur is mixed with 2 parts potash.
Sprinkled together, both powdered substances are thoroughly mixed, placed in a metal vessel with a handle and set to heat. It is recommended to stir the contents of the vessel. Fusion of the reagents occurs within 15-25 minutes. The reaction produces a dark mass of liver sulfur. High temperatures cause sulfur to smolder with a blue-green fire.
This should not be a cause for concern as the patination
the properties of sulfur liver will be preserved. The finished hot mass is poured with water, in which the resulting melt dissolves. The water takes on an intense black color.
Pre-treated copper products are dipped into a hot aqueous solution of liver sulfur. If the leaf is large and does not fit into the vessel, it is watered on top with a solution or lubricated with a soft brush.
Copper turns black very quickly. From the interaction of sulfur ions with metal, copper sulfide is formed. This salt is black in color and insoluble in water and dilute acids.
Acid treatment
Burnishing steel with acid requires high-quality preliminary preparation of the material. The surface of the product is properly treated with sandpaper, and then kept in kerosene for 15 minutes.
Procedure
After preparation, the part must be thoroughly dried.
You will need to make a solution for processing.
- A liter of water is poured into the container, then 2 grams of tannic acid and the same amount of tartaric acid are added.
- The components are mixed thoroughly.
- The mixture is heated to 140-150 degrees.
The product is immersed in a hot composition for 15-17 minutes, removed and rinsed with water. The most effective method of washing is rinsing with boiling water. Then the part is immersed in machine oil for an hour. After an hour, take it out and wipe it carefully. As a result, the product is ready for use.
How to blacken aluminum at home
Each of us has come across such a definition as anodizing, which applies, in particular, to aluminum products.
This metal in its pure form or its alloys are well suited for making various crafts, which is used by many home craftsmen. The metal is light in weight, has high strength and is easy to process.
But most importantly, it is resistant to corrosion. Many craftsmen anodize aluminum at home.
But why is this done, since the material itself is quite durable and looks good? However, despite all the advantages, it also has weaknesses.
And its main drawback is its interaction with air, resulting in an oxidation reaction. This leads to the formation of plaque, which significantly complicates the painting of products.
In addition, the type of aluminum itself is far from perfect. It is for this reason that aluminum undergoes an anodizing procedure.
According to GOST standards, anodizing is called anodic oxidation. The main result of the electrochemical process of aluminum anodization is the formation of a more durable oxide coating.
The fact is that during the oxidation of the metal, a protective film is formed on its surface, which is easily damaged. The whole point of anodizing is to strengthen this film, and not to apply any coating, which usually happens when chrome or galvanizing products. The film is formed from aluminum itself.
The process is very similar to another technology - blueing of metals by oxidation. Not only aluminum products are subjected to anodization; magnesium and titanium are also subject to such protective treatment if necessary.
What can anodizing aluminum do for metal at home? First of all, the ability to resist corrosion will increase significantly. A stronger oxide protective film will last a very long time and will not peel off.
In addition, there are a number of advantages that anodic oxidation technology provides:
- Smoothes the surface of aluminum products, that is, hides some defects (scratches and pinhole damage, chips, stripes) and makes the metal uniform.
- Paint coatings adhere better to such metal due to the acquisition of a matte surface.
- Anodized aluminum profiles have improved protective properties.
- Color anodizing of aluminum gives the metal more attractive features.
- Large thickness of protective film.
- Possibility for various imitation - silver, gold, pearls, etc.
When it comes to aniline dyes, there are many options. In addition, anodizing can be performed in different ways:
- cold;
- hard;
- colored.
Let's look at them briefly below.
Cold anodizing
At home, the cold method of anodizing aluminum is often used. Many companies that offer services in this area also mainly specialize in this method. The operating temperature range is from -10 to +10 degrees, which is why the technique is called cold.
Among the advantages of anodizing aluminum at home using this method is the production of a thicker protective coating, which increases resistance to corrosion.
Only processed products are difficult to process with organic paint materials. Although the metal will acquire color in any case, and the shade can be olive, grayish or black.
Hard Anodizing
The result of solid anodic oxidation is a particularly strong protective film. Largely due to this, this technology is successfully used on a huge scale:
- industry;
- aircraft manufacturing;
- automotive industry;
- construction.
A feature of hard anodizing of aluminum is the use of several electrolytes at once. In addition to the use of sulfuric acid, a number of other analogs are also involved: oxalic, sulfuric, citric, tartaric and boric. And this is only during one process in which the current density gradually increases.
The strength of the protective coating is increased due to structural changes.
Color anodizing
The essence of this method is to change the color of the metal. In this case, 4 main methods can be distinguished:
- Adsorption - products are immersed in a special bath or in a dye solution heated to the required temperature.
- Electrolytic (black anodizing of aluminum) - initially a colorless film is obtained, after which the aluminum products are dipped into an acidic saline solution. Black is a common color used in construction, but a slightly bronzed tint can also be achieved.
- Interference - the technique is similar to electrolytic, but in this case a special reflective layer is created, due to which the color palette is much larger.
- Integral - the essence of this method is to mix the electrolyte and organic salts.
As you can understand, color anodic oxidation allows you to acquire a new shade of color, depending on your preferences.
Home technology
In industry, anodizing of metals is carried out using sulfuric acid, but anodizing aluminum at home using it is extremely undesirable due to the release of a large amount of gas. Once the slightest spark is formed, sad consequences cannot be avoided. The technique itself remains unchanged, but soda is used instead of acid.
But first you should prepare the “equipment”:
- several baths;
- wiring;
- Battery or rectifier (current source);
- rheostat;
- ammeter.
Aluminum containers are needed directly for the process itself. The other two are needed for preparing solutions, for which glass or plastic products are useful.
Heat treatment
The technique was developed a long time ago and is therefore easy to use. It is based on heating the product to produce a reaction between steel and oxygen. Depending on the temperature, you can end up with different shades of coating.
- Heating to 220 degrees gives a yellowish tone.
- Reaching temperatures in the range of 230-250 degrees will give a reddish-yellow hue.
- 256-280 degrees will turn the steel purple.
- 280-295 degrees will give a bluish tint.
- You can achieve a dark blue color by heating to 300-320 degrees.
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Procedure
The steel becomes blued in oil. For this technology you will need:
- 0.5 liters of machine oil;
- utensils for work;
- pliers;
- gas hairdryer;
- rags or napkins.
For safety reasons, all manipulations must be carried out on a fire-resistant surface. It is convenient to hold the part with pliers.
- The product is heated with a hairdryer.
- Dip into machine oil.
- Take it out and rub it with rags or napkins.
The manipulation is repeated at least three times. You should know that black bluing of steel will not be achieved in this way. But the treatment protects the product from corrosion. Therefore, the method is in great demand for personal purposes.
There are other methods for oxidizing the surface of steel products.
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Blackening with citric acid
The old technology is good for high-carbon steel to prevent the reaction of objects that are in demand in everyday life with air. If, for example, you treat a knife blade in this way, the coating will be erased during sharpening.
You need to prepare:
- a packet of citric acid;
- machine oil;
- water at 95 degrees.
Procedure
- Pour a glass of hot water and 20 grams of citric acid into a glass container.
- After the powder has dissolved, place the part there and leave for 50 minutes. In this case, it is periodically necessary to move the product in the solution so that the bubbles on its surface disappear.
- Take the product out, wipe it with a cloth, and carefully lubricate it with machine oil.
The technique is simple, safe, and therefore can be easily performed in an apartment or house.
Application of rust varnish
This bluing agent is often used to obtain a smooth and even surface. It contains steel shavings, but they can be replaced with cast iron shavings. In this case, financial investments will be minimal. In this case, the workpiece must be placed in a chemical agent. The result is red or black iron oxide. This instruction, as a means for cold bluing, gives a long-lasting and effective result.
To get rid of red deposits, use a brush with fairly stiff metal bristles. As a result, only black oxide remains.
First, the metal is machined and degreased. Then the product is placed in a special composition. The bluing agent is prepared in a porcelain container. It is important to wear gloves to protect your skin. The composition is made using hydrochloric acid. It is poured in a small amount into a container. It is mixed with metal filings, nitric acid and iron rust.
The mixture is stirred well until the chemical reaction, which is accompanied by the release of gas, stops. Add water and regular vodka to the mixture in equal proportions. Finally, it is left for a certain time until it settles. Then it is drained to remove scale and salts that have precipitated.
When the mixture is ready, the metal product being processed is placed in it. It is kept until it turns black. After this, it is washed under strong pressure of running water.
In the video: bluing with rusty varnish.
Other bluing methods
It is easy to achieve a noble blue tint by heating the part for a long time. During processing, the steel surface turns white, then turns yellow and acquires a purple tint. But at the end of the procedure, a blue coating is formed.
Method 1
For work you need a forge and a metal box.
- Birch coals are placed in the box, leaving space for the product. The box itself is placed in the forge and heated until the coals begin to smolder.
- The part is lubricated with ordinary vinegar and placed in a box.
- When the steel surface turns blue, the product is removed, cooled and placed back in the box.
The procedure is repeated 3-4 times to achieve the desired shade.
Method 2
If necessary, you can do without heat treatment.
- Iron sesquichloride and 3 gamma “red salt” (hexacyanoferrate) are added to 0.5 liters of water using separate containers.
- Then combine and stir.
- The part is immersed in the working solution and held until the desired shade of the surface film is obtained.
Use of saltpeter
Excellent results can be achieved by using saltpeter. To do this, the product is boiled in sodium nitrate at 130-150 degrees.
Required:
- liter of water (distilled);
- 500 grams of caustic soda;
- 500 grams of sodium nitrate.
It is noteworthy that it is not difficult to find ready-made preparations with saltpeter for specialized purposes.
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