Chainsaw Partner 350 S - characteristics, troubleshooting, operating instructions

If there is no spark on the chainsaw, then do not be upset; the fault can be diagnosed and fixed on your own very easily. The serviceability of the ignition system and fuel system are equally important for the trouble-free operation of the chainsaw engine. But the symptoms of problems with both the ignition and the carburetor are often very similar at first glance. In order to correctly find and eliminate the cause of problems specifically in the ignition system, in particular the lack of a spark, you need to know the principle of its operation, design and diagnostics.

Reasons for lack of spark

On the engine of each chainsaw there is, in fact, a miniature power station. It receives the primary impulse for the spark on the candle from the jerk of the starter cord, from muscle energy.

Next, energy is generated by rotating the magnetic rotor while the engine is running due to fuel combustion. In theory, problems with spark formation can occur along the entire line of the system, from energy generation to its transmission through wires and conversion into a spark on the chainsaw’s spark plug. In practice there are fewer weak points.

No. 10. Chain brake does not work

All chainsaws are equipped with a main and inertial (emergency) brake. The latter turns on only when a backfire occurs. The main brake is designed to stop the chain while the engine is running. Why does the chain on the chainsaw jam and it doesn’t stop? Option two:

• The brake band is badly worn and does not provide sufficient stopping effect. The brake band needs to be replaced.
• Contamination of the tape. When working, debris may become clogged in the under-cover space: shavings, sawdust, dirt, etc. Debris is blocking the brake mechanism, so if the brake does not work, you need to clean the brake mechanism.

Causes of a weak spark

A weak spark on a chainsaw is a relative concept. Most often, there is either a spark and the ignition is working properly, or there is none at all. With modern chainsaws with electronic ignition, the spark visually appears weak.

On older models with a mechanical cam breaker, the spark was large and distinctly blue. On modern models with electronics, it is noticeably smaller and paler, often yellowish in color. Therefore, when you need to make sure of its presence, it is better to do it in the shade. In direct sunlight it is almost invisible.

No. 8. The chain falls off

Why does the chain fall off the tire? There may be several reasons and they are all different:

• Worn drive or driven sprocket. Due to the fact that the sprocket is worn out, the grip on the chain decreases, which is why the chain flies off the chainsaw. The sprocket needs to be replaced.
• The chain has stretched. Why the chain on a chainsaw stretches is due to insufficient lubrication. The metal heats up and stretches, even by a fraction of a millimeter, but if you take into account the number of links, then even 3-4 mm is enough for the chain to fly off the bar. The chain needs to be replaced.

• The chain tensioner that regulates its tension has become loose. how to regulate a chainsaw, or rather the chain tension? You need to adjust the tensioner - this can be done in just a few minutes.

How to make sure there really is no spark

To make sure there is a spark on the chainsaw or not, you need to follow a simple procedure:

1. The top cover on the case is removed.
2. Carefully, with a grip at the very bottom, so as not to tear off the spark plug wire, remove the cap from the spark plug.
3. Using the 19 mm socket wrench included in the kit, unscrew the spark plug counterclockwise.
4. The cap is put in place, on the candle.
5. The thread or nut of the spark plug is “grounded,” that is, pressed against the metal cylinder head. To ensure reliable contact, the spark plug is pressed against the cylinder using electric pliers, a screwdriver with insulated handles, or a hand wearing dielectric gloves. This should not be done with your bare hand. If the cap is punctured, you can receive a painful shock from a high-voltage discharge (up to 40,000 V at a weak current of up to 80 milliamps).

Place the chainsaw on the ground, press it to the ground with your foot and lightly pull the starter cord. At this time it will be clear whether there is a spark or not.

Checking the muffler

Do not underestimate the breakdown of this chainsaw assembly. If the muffler becomes clogged, the saw will lose power and, of course, will not start. If the muffler is dismountable, then we disassemble it, inspect it and remove all carbon deposits. In some models, the muffler will have to be unscrewed; after washing, the non-removable muffler should be dried with a hairdryer.

Please note: carbon deposits contain carcinogens that are dangerous to human health; dry cleaning is unacceptable as it can lead to inhalation of these harmful substances. When we remove the muffler, we plug the engine exhaust hole with a clean rag.

The reasons why the muffler may become clogged are:

When we remove the muffler, we plug the engine exhaust hole with a clean rag. The reasons why the muffler may become clogged are:

• Using the wrong fuel mixture (too much oil)
• Using the wrong oil (oil not for two-stroke engines or poor quality oil)

What to do

It is important that there may be no spark on the chainsaw due to a malfunction of the fuel system. In order not to look for a problem in the working ignition, this issue must be dealt with immediately.

The carburetor of a chainsaw can “overflow,” that is, throw too much fuel into the combustion chamber. Inside the candle there is a porcelain insulator from which a metal core emerges. On it, under the plate, they make contact with the “ground” (minus) and a spark occurs.

But if the space inside the spark plug between the round insulator and the ground is filled with excess fuel, especially together with conductive contamination, a short circuit (spark) can jump inside the spark plug. There will be no spark where needed.

However, if there is no spark on the chainsaw, the fuel does not burn, and the spark plug simply must be wet from the fuel when the carburetor is running. It is almost impossible to determine visually whether a spark plug is over-filled and therefore there is no spark, or not over-filled. Therefore, to accurately diagnose this “key point” (the carburetor or ignition is faulty), you need to have 2-3 guaranteed serviceable spark plugs on hand.

1. A working candle is placed.
2. The spark is checked.

If there is a spark, this means either:

• the old spark plug was faulty;
• The old spark plug was fine, but was filled with fuel.

The working spark plug is screwed into place and they try to start the engine. If it starts working normally, the problem is solved. If not, turn the spark plug out again and look for a spark. There is no spark - install the next dry working spark plug.

There is a spark, they put the spark plug in place and try to start it. If it still doesn’t start, turn the spark plug out and look for a spark. If the spark on the chainsaw disappears again and the spark plug is flooded, there is almost a 100% chance that the cause is a fuel overflow.

What kind of carburetor is used on the Partner 350 chainsaw

Partner 350 chainsaws use carburetors from the Japanese company Walbro, which is the world's largest manufacturer of fuel units for gasoline-powered vehicles.

This is a specialized company that constantly works to improve the design and quality of its products and values ​​​​its reputation.

On the body of the carburetor from this company there is the Walbro inscription cast in large letters, and there is also a product number. If such an inscription is missing, this means that a particular Partner 350 chainsaw has exactly the same carburetor, but from a different, less well-known manufacturer. In Russia, Partner 350 chainsaws are found with both Walbro carburetors and unmarked products. They are identical in design and operating parameters.

Operating principle and design of the Partner 350 carburetor

The carburetor receives fuel from the gas tank, atomizes it in the diffuser nozzle and supplies the fuel-air mixture to the combustion chamber.

The supply of fuel from the tank to the carburetor storage tank is metered by a membrane, which opens and closes the needle valve. A calibrated hole in the jet and adjusting screws dose the flow of fuel from the carburetor into the combustion chamber.

The engine speed depends on the amount of fuel-air mixture entering the combustion chamber. This amount is regulated during operation by the throttle valve, which opens when the throttle is pressed, and vice versa.

The air damper regulates the air flow from the air filter. During a cold start, it is closed, which makes starting the engine easier. When you press the throttle it opens.

To operate in idle mode, an idle mode is provided, when a minimum amount of fuel mixture enters the combustion chamber without pressing the throttle.

To start a cold engine, the carburetor is equipped with a manual primer pump (suction). Main carburetor components:

• housing, it contains a storage tank, channels for the passage of fuel, air and all parts;
• throttle and air dampers;
• elastic membrane;
• cross with needle valve;
• jet with a calibrated hole;
• diffuser, nozzle for fuel atomization;
• three adjustment screws T, H and L.

This is what the original carburetor looks like removed from the Partner 350 chainsaw

Use a screwdriver to indicate the injector valve

Troubleshooting algorithm

In all other cases, the search for ignition problems begins from the end and in order. After each step, check the spark.

1. Replace the old spark plug with a guaranteed working one.
2. If the model has a removable spark plug cap, remove it, and the exposed spark plug wire is connected to ground with a gap similar to that of a spark plug. They pull the starter. If there is a spark, the problem is in the cap. She is being eliminated.
3. Change the spark plug wire where it is possible to remove it from the source.
4. Visually inspect the wires from the switch. Vibration or contact with metal can cause damage. If there are friction points, the wire is replaced, even if there is no external damage to the insulation. You can use a tester or multimeter to check the wire.

This is where minor and easily fixable problems end. If the problem is not solved, then the reason is more serious. Modern coils and ignition systems on most chainsaws are very reliable. They are designed to last even longer than the entire chainsaw as a whole. There are no mechanical moving parts like older cam systems. They are sufficiently insulated from clogging and moisture.

Fuel supply problem

A similar chainsaw malfunction can be determined by inspecting the spark plug. Fuel may not enter the cylinder for various reasons:

• The fuel filter installed in the tank is heavily clogged.
• The hole in the tank cap is clogged, preventing gasoline from flowing out.
• There is poor or no fuel flow from the carburetor.

If there is not the correct ratio between gasoline and air mixed in the carburetor or there is not enough fuel supplied, you should check whether the channels and the carburetor air filter are clogged. In addition, it may need to be adjusted.

Before cleaning, the filter is carefully removed and washed with detergent, after which it is left to dry. Then it is put in place.

The carburetor is usually adjusted using screws for maximum and minimum speed. When carrying out this procedure, you must strictly follow the instructions for repairing the chainsaw, otherwise you may damage the motor. Sometimes manufacturers leave only one adjustment screw to prevent inexperienced technicians from interfering with the operation of the carburetor.

If debugging does not fix anything, then it is worth cleaning the channels and filter mesh, and also checking the integrity of the membrane.

Do not forget that the carburetor is one of the complex mechanisms of a chainsaw, so you need to approach it responsibly when cleaning and disassembling it.

It consists of many small elements that can pop out unnoticed and be difficult to find. Often after disassembling this device, some users are unable to reassemble it.

Checking the condition of the fuel and air filters.

If the fuel quality is fine, the chainsaw engine may not start due to clogged fuel and air filters. To diagnose these elements, you will need to perform a number of manipulations associated with their dismantling.

• Disconnect the gasoline supply line from the carburetor;
• Pump up the fuel.

If there is little or no pressure in the pipe, disconnect the filter. Before doing this, empty the tank of the mixture and remove the filter element itself. Dismantling is done using a wire hook. A clogged replacement cartridge that causes poor starting of the chainsaw engine can be cleaned, but it is best to replace it with a new one. When using the tool in dusty conditions, cleaning should be done on a regular basis.

A clogged air filter can cause the chainsaw engine to run rough, causing it to stall or be difficult to start. Dust and dirt deposited on the adsorbent material make it difficult for air to enter the system, making the fuel mixture so rich that it will sometimes be difficult to start the tool.

Checking the air filter is one of the first steps in finding the causes of poor starting.

Removing the air filter should be done with caution, since dust accumulated on its surface during operation of the saw can get into the carburetor. And this is fraught with more expensive repairs. After disconnecting the cartridge, thoroughly clean it of accumulated dirt and wash it with detergent. Dry the element and carefully put it back in place.

Troubleshooting Tips

Fuel transfusion and filling of a chainsaw spark plug can be one-time and accidental. For example, “over-pumping” with a pump cap (primer): the engine does not start immediately, the operator presses his finger on the cap again and again, tries to start it, then pumps it up again.

In this case, the reason is not at all in the carburetor. You need to unscrew the spark plug and ventilate the combustion chamber by pulling the starter cord several times, as when starting. The candle is wiped, dried on the flame of a gas burner or burner, or another one is used. They check the spark, put the spark plug in place. They try to start it first without choke.

If it does not start after 3-4 jerks, press the pump cap 2-3 times. They try again. That is, after an overflow, it is better not to pump up the fuel first, but to pump it up incrementally. Until the engine starts.

Candles sometimes require their own maintenance and care.

• Inside, around the insulator, there should absolutely be no soot or dirt.
• The contact between the electrode and the plate from the spark plug body is cleaned with “zero” sandpaper. Carefully, without rounding the end of the electrode.
• You need to know the recommended spark plug gap indicated in the instructions for each chainsaw model (from 0.5 to 0.65 mm or more).
• To accurately adjust the spark plug gap, special feelers are used - a fan-shaped set of plates of different calibrated thicknesses, which fold into a handle like a folding knife. Sold in auto tool and spare parts stores.
• When working in winter, it is better to store the chainsaw at low temperatures. When taken out of the heat and into the cold, a sharp temperature change can cause condensation to form everywhere, including in the ignition system, and this is harmful.

One of the reasons for the lack of spark in a chainsaw is described in the following video, where they also talk about how to fix the breakdown:

Modern chainsaw ignition systems are quite compact and reliable. You just need to protect them from direct moisture, shock, and exposure to extreme temperatures. And then there will be no problems with the lack of spark during startup. Also, 1-2 spare spark plugs that are known to work will not be superfluous.

Amateur and professional chainsaws are complex devices. The motor life of their two-stroke engines, components and assemblies has its limitations. For this reason, quite reliable and expensive tools, along with cheap Chinese units, periodically fail and refuse to start. The situation when a chainsaw does not start or stalls is not very pleasant and sometimes confuses the user. How to identify and eliminate the malfunction, restoring the functionality of the tool.

Exhaust duct or muffler cleaning and influence on engine starting

When a chainsaw operates, resinous deposits—carbon deposits—are deposited on the walls of the exhaust channel and muffler. Periodically, this carbon deposits need to be cleaned, but most tool owners remember this only after the chainsaw does not start. Why is this happening? The reason is that the burnt food has nowhere to go, so the engine will not be able to start. When the exhaust channel is contaminated, the chainsaw not only loses power, but also causes the engine to stop working on its own.

Deposits on the walls of the muffler occur due to the following factors:

1. Using low-quality gasoline and oil
2. Incorrect ratio of gasoline and oil when preparing the mixture
3. Long-term use of the tool without preventive measures

There are no difficulties in cleaning a chainsaw muffler. The cleaning sequence is as follows:

• To begin, unscrew the muffler mounting screws.
• The cooling panel with the sealing gasket is dismantled
• Next you need to remove the spark arrester
• The resonator body is disassembled
• All elements are cleaned and washed from carbon deposits with kerosene or other cleaning liquids. This must be done exclusively in a respirator and goggles. Carcinogenic substances are very dangerous for humans
• Wait for the cleaned elements to dry
• Reassemble in the reverse order of removal

When cleaning the walls of the exhaust channel, it is necessary to cover the cylinder hole with a rag. This will eliminate the possibility of dust and sand getting into the cylinder. After cleaning the muffler and exhaust channel of the chainsaw, you can start starting the engine of the tool. At the same time, you will feel how the chainsaw will work at full power.

Identifying and eliminating obvious chainsaw faults.

To determine the reason why the chainsaw does not start or stalls when starting, it is necessary to troubleshoot the tool. The essence of the procedure is a sequential inspection of the condition and operation of the main working elements of the saw engine. At this stage we check:

• Presence of a spark on the spark plug;
• Fuel supply;
• Filter status;
• Operation of the breather built into the fuel cap of the stalling unit;
• Functioning of the exhaust channel.

Checking the spark on the spark plug and eliminating the causes.

The first step in finding the reasons why a gasoline saw does not start is to check the spark on the spark plug. There are many factors that influence the operation of this element. However, the main ones at the initial stage of tool troubleshooting are:

• Incorrect carburetor adjustment;
• The presence of more than the required amount of oil in gasoline;
• Air filter clogged.

All of them contribute to the formation of carbon deposits on the spark plug electrodes. In 50 cases out of 100, saws do not start when cold due to the lack of a spark due to carbon deposits on the electrodes and their corrosion. The result is either a decrease in the gap or an increase in it.

Checking the spark plug of a non-working chainsaw

Checking for spark is quite simple. To do this you will need:

• Remove the tip of the high-voltage wire;
• Unscrew the spark plug;
• Put the tip back on;
• Place the candle skirt against the cylinder;
• Start with the starter.

If at the moment the chainsaw engine starts, a good spark is observed between the electrodes, then everything is in order with the ignition unit. If it is not there, then it is worth cleaning the element itself and checking the electrode gap. If necessary, use a special probe to adjust the distance between the contacts.

For spark plugs from different manufacturers, the distance between the electrodes may vary. For some it may be equal to 0.5 mm. Others have 0.2 mm. Therefore, carefully study the manufacturer's recommendations.

There may be no spark at the spark plug for other reasons. The main malfunctions that affect poor starting of the chainsaw and unstable operation of the internal combustion engine at idle, which can cause the tool to stall, include the following:

• Overfilling of the spark plug channel with fuel;
• Lack of contact between the high-voltage cradle and the tip of the spark plug;
• Failure of the ignition unit.

Disadvantages of the saw

On the Russian market you can find low-quality fakes of the Partner 350 chainsaw, which is not only additional evidence of its popularity, but also harms the brand as a whole. And other models of this brand are popular with summer residents and farmers.

If you are ready to consider the Partner 350 as your home tool for sawing thin trees, trimming branches and other not very voluminous work, then you should also know the disadvantages, most often mentioned by their owners:

1. The vibration damping system is not of very high quality, as a result of which the hands get tired quite quickly. But, considering that this is a household tool that requires 15–20 minutes of rest every 20–25 minutes of work, you can put up with this drawback.

2. Oil leakage from the chain lubrication system, which, however, affects most chainsaws equipped with it, including the more famous relative of Partner chainsaws - Husqvarna. (link)

3. Lack of visual control of the oil level, which is not very convenient in operation, and operating the saw without lubrication will lead to rapid stretching, overheating and wear of the chain.

Of course, you can use this saw to cut down a tree up to 30 - 35 centimeters thick, but its main purpose is to work on the site. Therefore, in conclusion, we offer you the most objective video review of this model:

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Adjusting the chainsaw carburetor, disassembling, searching for common faults

What to do if the chainsaw continues to not start?

If the initial inspection did not yield anything or the defects were eliminated during the search process, but the chainsaw still does not start, then you need to look for more serious reasons. It is best to identify and repair such breakdowns at a service center. However, if you have experience, you can find and eliminate them yourself. What to diagnose and check?

1. Compression in the cylinder;
2. Compression in the crankcase;
3. Carburetor operation.

In the first case, checking the compression in the cylinder will allow you to find out the condition of the cylinder-piston group (CPG) of a chainsaw that does not want to start when cold. To do this you need a compression gauge. The device is screwed into place of the spark plug and the engine is started idle. Measuring the readings allows you to judge the condition of the CPG. In the absence of a compression gauge, you can determine the compression in the cylinder offhand as follows:

• Place your finger on the spark plug hole;
• Try to start the chainsaw engine.

By placing your finger on the spark plug hole and pulling the starter, you can check the compression in the cylinder

If you feel that your finger is being pulled strongly into the spark plug channel, then everything is in order with compression. The absence of vacuum in the chamber indicates a malfunction. The cylinder-piston group needs a more detailed inspection, which will give an idea of ​​the condition of the piston and cylinder, piston rings and bearings.

A chainsaw may not start when cold due to a lack of compression in the engine crankcase. The main reason for this is damage to the gasket located between the cylinder and the crankcase. It is quite easy to detect a lack of compression:

• Disconnect the upper tube from the carburetor;
• Pour gasoline into a regular cork;
• We immerse the removed tube in the fuel;
• We pull the starter several times.

If fuel is sucked out of the cap when the chainsaw starter starts, then everything is fine with compression. If not, look at the gasket.

If the fuel is drawn in, then everything is fine - the gasket is intact. Otherwise, you will have to purchase a repair kit and make a replacement. How to do this, watch the video why a Chinese chainsaw won’t start:

Starting the tool may be complicated by improper operation of the carburetor or its breakdown. It often happens that during the sawing process the fastening screws become loose and air is sucked into the cylinder. Check that the carburetor is securely fastened. Inspect it for fuel leaks. There can be many reasons for the malfunction. It is possible to accurately determine the malfunction, eliminate it and fine-tune the carburetor only at a service center.

After going through a step-by-step troubleshooting of the chainsaw engine, you will be able to find the malfunction, fix it yourself and successfully start your working tool. Do not take on types of work that you are not confident in. Entrust troubleshooting and troubleshooting to specialists from the service center.

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Do-it-yourself adjustment of the Partner 350 chainsaw carburetor

All carburetors on Partner 350 chainsaws are factory tuned at special stands. The adjusting screws are securely fixed by springs and are extremely rarely unscrewed during operation of the chainsaw. But adjusting the carburetor on your own is sometimes required, although not often.

For example, if the piston group is heavily worn, the loss of compression and power can be compensated by increasing the fuel supply. This will lead to excessive fuel consumption, and the piston group will still have to be changed. But the chainsaw can still work for some time.

In some cases, adjustment is required after running in the engine and when switching to a different brand of gasoline.

Signs that the carburetor needs to be adjusted:

1. The chainsaw stalls at idle speed (low speed) or the speed is too high, the chain spins. The idle speed needs to be adjusted using screw T.
2. When you press the throttle, the engine does not develop speed and “fails.” There is not enough fuel, the mixture is too lean (not enough gasoline - too much air). Adjustment is required with screws L and H.

Sometimes these problems occur for other reasons:

• the air filter is clogged;
• the supply of fuel from the gas tank to the carburetor is difficult;
• The exhaust windows and muffler are clogged with carbon deposits.

Replacing the piston group

If it is necessary to replace the cylinder and piston of the Partner 350 chainsaw, it must be disassembled according to the algorithm described above. The piston is secured at the top of the crankshaft connecting rod using a piston pin. A separator with roller bearings is installed between the pin and the connecting rod.

To replace the piston and cylinder, it is necessary to remove the piston from the cylinder and remove it from the crankshaft; to do this, remove the piston pin stopper from one side of the piston using pliers and a small screwdriver.

Then it is squeezed out from the opposite side using a small screwdriver. If the pin comes out tightly, you can slowly knock it out using a hammer and a drift, suitable in size, but smaller than the diameter of the piston pin mounting hole.

The new piston is installed on the crankshaft so that the arrow on the piston cap points in the direction of chain movement.

To check the correct installation, you need to take the crankshaft with the piston installed on it so that the shaft on which the flywheel is installed is in your left hand, with the arrow facing away from you.

After the new piston is mounted on the crankshaft, a ring is installed on it, after which the piston is inserted into the cylinder, while the parts should be lubricated with engine oil, which will prevent the ring from breaking and make the process easier. Next, the crankcase is installed.

Service center technicians use an algorithm for replacing the piston group, which allows the work to be done without completely disassembling the Partner 350 chainsaw. How such a replacement occurs can be seen in the video.

Additional recommendations

After purchasing a Partner-350 chainsaw, you can adjust the carburetor while using it. Before starting this work, please note that the settings installed at the factory are optimal. Using the screws described above, you can adjust the operation of the engine in special cases when extraordinary external circumstances require it, for example, individual climatic conditions. When adjusting, use the screws marked with the letters H and L. To reduce the speed, they must be turned counterclockwise. To increase the speed, you need to turn the screws in the opposite direction.

The required sequence of screw use is of great importance. It looks like this: L – H – T. If difficulties arise during the adjustment process, it is advisable to promptly seek help from a professional, since incorrect adjustment can cause engine damage.

Modifications of the Partner 350 model

The Partner model range is represented by the following modifications, each of them will be considered separately:

Chainsaw Partner P350S

Partner to the P350S: A 2 HP/140 W motor drives a 3.8-inch pitch chain moving at 22 meters per second, tensioned on a 400 mm long bar - these parameters significantly increase productivity, making this model stand out among analog. The fuel tank capacity is 250 ml. The Partner P350S model uses new approaches to user safety: an inertial chain stopper, blocking using a special switch, a chain catcher, which allows it to be braked in different ways. The design also incorporates a fuel pump that also removes remaining air and fuel from the carburetor for easier starting.

Chainsaw Partner P350 XT CHROME

Partner 350 XT CHROME: the chainsaw is equipped with an engine with a power of 1.3 hp\1300 W, which is excellent for carrying out work of medium complexity. High performance is ensured by a chain with a tooth pitch of 3.8 inches and a bar length of 400 millimeters. The fuel tank capacity is 400 milliliters - this guarantees a long operating time. Elements that optimize the operation of the chainsaw include a vibration damping system, which is achieved by using durable steel springs. Safety is ensured by a double brake system.

Chainsaw Partner 350 Chrome

Partner 350 Chrome: has a motor with a power of 1.9 hp\1300 W. The bar length is 400 mm, the chain pitch is 0.325 inches. This significantly increases the performance of the chainsaw. The fuel tank capacity is 400 ml. The model is highly wear-resistant due to its chrome plating. Safety is ensured by an inertia-type chain stopper.

Specifications

Thanks to the thoughtful layout of the internal equipment, the 4.7 kg chainsaw is characterized by small overall dimensions, simplifying its use in hard-to-reach places.

• The tool is powered by a two-stroke carburetor internal combustion engine with a volume of 36 cm3 and developing a power of 1.8 hp at maximum speed.
• The fuel is a mixture of motor gasoline and motor oil for two-stroke engines, which enters the carburetor from a 400 ml reservoir built into the saw body.
• The power unit is characterized by economical fuel and oil consumption, a good torque reserve for its class, and stable operating parameters in all modes.
• Trouble-free starting and stable engine performance are ensured by the design of a manual starter, primer pump and electronic ignition.