Hi all! Friends, I understand that it is not so rare that trailers are purchased for transporting jet skis, ATVs or the same motorcycles. Although the majority of trailer owners still use them to transport goods. Someone needs to harvest a crop from their dacha, bring building materials, or resolve some agricultural issues.
What am I talking about? Snowmobile trailers are good for everyone, no doubt about it. But initially this type of equipment (trailer) was focused on cargo transportation, expanding the capabilities of the car and replacing the once horse-drawn cart. So we simply have to discuss the light dump trailer. Otherwise they won't understand us.
Requirements for a car trailer according to GOST
The first thing a person who has decided to independently manufacture a car trailer needs to know is that it, like any vehicle, has certain requirements. In this case, all requirements are described in detail in GOST 37.001.220-80, which is called “Trailers for passenger cars.” In order not to burden car enthusiasts with reading the primary source, it is worth making a selection of relevant information specifically on the issue under discussion.
So, a car trailer must meet the following requirements:
- The weight of a passenger car trailer should not exceed 1.8 tons. However, it should also not exceed half the weight of the towing vehicle.
- The static load indicator on the central part of the ball joint of the coupling device should be from 25 KGS to 100 KGS.
- The total length of the trailer cannot exceed eight meters, the width cannot be more than two hundred and thirty centimeters, and the height limit is three meters.
- The ground clearance of the trailer should not be less than the vehicle towing it.
- For a passenger car trailer, it is intended to use one axle. A possible option is two parallel axes located at a distance of no more than one meter from each other.
- For insurance purposes, the towing coupling device is equipped with two non-removable sections of cable or chain, which insure the structure if the coupling becomes disconnected as a result of a hinge failure.
- The mandatory equipment of the trailer being used must include wheel chocks. It is stipulated that they do not have to be factory-made.
- The design must include fenders and mudguards if body parts do not perform this function.
- The towbar must be of factory origin and have an appropriate certificate.
- Fastenings must be provided to secure the license plate.
- To connect to the vehicle's on-board network, a cable with a plug must be provided; the electrical circuit diagram is regulated by GOST 9209-76.
Transport trailers
The widespread use of semi-trailers and trailers is due to the additional convenience when transporting heavy loads. The vehicle bears only part of the load, which extends its service life. When unloading, you can save valuable time by unhooking the cart and leaving it in place, and unloading it at a convenient time. This option is convenient and is used for delivering goods between workshops of the same enterprise located at a certain distance.
All towed devices are divided into two groups:
- Special-purpose trailers allow you to take into account the needs of working with various loads, but there are quite a few universal vehicles for such work. Common types include heavy-duty semi-trailers, log trucks, panel trucks, cement trucks and other types of trailed equipment.
- General transport equipment includes flatbed, tilt and other trailers of various sizes designed for transporting heavy loads of any kind.
Varieties depending on load distribution
The designs of trailed vehicles use different steering wheel control systems in order to improve the maneuverability and speed of control of the road train. Hitches are standard in most cases. If the trailer has an active wheel drive from the car engine, then such carriages are called active automobile trains.
To drive such an active drive, a mechanical transmission is used via a coupling device or a hydraulic drive is used.
If the road train has two or more links, then the engine is located in the section at the rear. Unofficially, there is the concept of “trailer”; it is used to move cars, other equipment or oversized cargo (long or heavy).
Depending on the load distribution between the trailer and the tractor, trailers are divided into several types:
Requirements for transport devices
A person who wants to independently make a transport vehicle for moving goods should study the requirements for car trailers. These standards are contained in GOST 37.001.220−1980, which is called “Trailers for passenger cars.” A selection of these requirements includes the following provisions:
Features of using carts
Car trailers are used only in accordance with their intended purpose, as this is due to similar tires and wheels with the main vehicle, track width, and travel within certain ground clearance dimensions. The rule does not apply to heavy trucks and trailers. All breakdowns that occur during operation are similar to malfunctions of the brake system and chassis of the main machine.
In addition, the operation of the trailer is impaired due to damage to the coupling or wear of the turning device.
To delay the repair of these systems, you need to regularly inspect the trailer. Since the operation of the device is associated with constant shaking and shock due to uneven traffic on roads, it is necessary to tighten the fasteners from time to time and align the curved parts. Before operation, you need to check the serviceability of springs, brakes, lighting, tire pressure, the presence of a spare wheel, and the serviceability of side and body locks.
Towing of carts is carried out according to the rules; speeding is unacceptable, as well as sudden braking and unequal distribution of the load. Increasing the speed while driving will cause the trailer to wobble on the sides. Sharp braking causes the car and trailer to fold
, this is also facilitated by engine braking. Due to uneven storage of transported materials, stability is impaired and the trailer may tip over.
Required tools and materials
So, before you start assembling the desired structure, it is worth preparing a number of tools and materials that will be required at various stages of assembly.
- Steel channel for the frame.
The optimal channel size for assembling a car trailer frame is 25x40 mm. It is also possible to use a square pipe with dimensions 40x40 mm. The length of the material is selected individually based on the design features. - Sheet steel for body sides.
The thickness of the sheet steel from which the body sides will be made should be about 1 mm. The dimensions of the required sheets should also be calculated based on the dimensions of the finished structure. - Thick plywood.
The bottom is made from it, therefore, the thickness should be chosen with a margin for sufficient strength. - Chassis.
Everything here relies only on the imagination of enthusiasts. For example, the use of suspension elements for Moskvich, Volga, ZAZ, etc. cars is quite popular. Attempts are often made to build a trailer on the classic “Zhiguli” bridge. - Elements of electrical equipment.
Wiring, brake lights, direction indicators, dimensions. Nowadays there are often ready-made solutions specifically for car trailers on the market. In this case, rear lights from onboard UAZs and Gazelles are often used. - Fastening elements.
It all depends on the design features. It is worth noting that in order to increase strength, you should not skimp on bolted connections. - Hand tool.
The minimum set of hand tools includes the following. Hammer, pliers, wrenches, drill, jigsaw and grinder. Depending on the design features of the trailer, the tool can either be replenished or reduced. - Welding machine.
Actually, the element, without which assembling the trailer will simply be impossible, you will also need to find either an experienced welder or have the necessary skills yourself.
Step-by-step instructions for making a homemade trailer
Once the entire set of materials and tools has been assembled, you can proceed directly to assembling the structure.
The instructions will allow you to do everything quickly and efficiently.
- The first thing the trailer assembly begins with is the frame;
in fact, it acts as the load-bearing part of the structure. Accordingly, it is subject to special requirements for strength and reliability. To begin with, the channel or pipe is cut into pieces of the required length, after which a rectangular or square base is welded from them, to which the sides will be attached. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of welding seams, since it is at this point that, as a rule, the main problems arise in home-made structures. The coupling device is mounted in the front part of the frame, and eyes for shock absorbers are installed in the middle. - Body assembly begins with the frame of the sides.
Vertical posts are installed first, then horizontal ones. It is separately recommended to strengthen the sides with additional stiffening ribs, since during movement, especially on bad roads, the elements may experience high loads. Additional stiffeners can be either vertical or horizontal. - Installation of trailer chassis.
This process has a lot of subtleties. For example, the axle should be moved closer to the rear of the trailer. In general, any peculiarities in the installation of the chassis are caused rather by the design features of the elements that the car owner chose to test. Eyelets for shock absorbers and reaction rods are welded to the frame; it is unacceptable to neglect the latter, since they serve as retaining elements of the bridge. - Sheathing of the sides and bottom is carried out at the final stages.
Sheet steel and plywood are excellent for this. First of all, the bottom sheathing elements are cut out with a jigsaw, and they are secured using bolts. Next, the side cladding is made from sheet steel. It is noteworthy that it can be secured either by welding, for example, or using aluminum rivets, which are quite affordable for purchase. - Installation of electrical equipment.
The following should be installed on the rear wall of the trailer: red reflective triangles, license plate lights, reversing lights, brake lights, direction indicators and clearance lights. There should be orange reflectors on the side. The front wall provides for the installation of white markers and reflectors of the same color. It will be much more effective to use ready-made wiring solutions. Be sure to use a protective corrugation for the wires. All connections must be tight and reliable. It is most convenient to attach the wiring harness to the frame using special plastic clamps.
- Anton.
I assembled the trailer with my own hands on the Moskvichevsky bridge. I was pleased, it was just right for the village. There is only one piece of advice: if you don’t know how to use a welding machine, then you shouldn’t take it on; bolted connections are inappropriate here. - Kirill.
I assembled the trailer from scratch, the taillights fit perfectly with the gazelle, and a friend welded the frame. The main problem was with the installation of the bridge. I had to tinker with it, several times I even went to the dealer to see how the “Kurgan trailer” worked. Be prepared to spend a lot of time and effort, and carefully weigh the pros and cons.
Fig.1. Homemade dump trailer:
1 — coupling device, 2 — spare wheel, 3 — lock, 4, 7, 10 — body sides, 5 — mudguard, 6 — signal light, 8 — valve, 9 — coupler, 11 — wheel, 12 — body spar, 13 — lifting device fitting, 14 — spare wheel cradle, 15 — trailer frame, 16 — body hinge.
I bring to the attention of readers a dump trailer with a tipping body. By making one for yourself, you can get rid of problems when unloading it.
A few words about the design of the trailer.
Its frame is welded from steel pipes with a square section of 40x40 mm, the bridge is from an SZD motorized stroller, using spring-hydraulic shock absorbers of a Ural motorcycle. The bridge is attached to the frame using struts, also welded from square pipes.
Fig.2. Lifting mechanism of a homemade trailer:
(A - transport position of the body, B - position of the body during unloading): 1 - connecting hose, 2 - fitting of the lifting device, 3 - support platform, 4 - rings, 5 - pneumatic chambers, 6 - cover.
The trailer is equipped with a standard ball hitch designed to accept a ball with a diameter of 50 mm.
Fig.3. Connection diagram of pneumatic chambers:
1 - chambers, 2 - threaded pipe, 3 - nuts, 4 - washers.
The body is assembled from panels, each of which has a frame made of 30x30 mm steel corners and a 12 mm thick plywood sheathing with M6 screws and nuts. Two spars made of wooden beams with a cross section of 120x30 mm are attached to the bottom. The body is attached to the frame using a hinge, the mating parts of which are welded to the frame and screwed to the side members; in the front part there is a lock, reminiscent of a regular latch, which prevents the body from tipping over while driving.
Fig.4. Mounting diagram for the lifting device fitting:
1 - cover, 2 - pneumatic chamber, 3 - angle ring, 4 - nuts, 5 - washer, 6 - support platform, 7 - lifting device fitting, 8 - connecting hose, 9 - clamp.
Now about the main thing - the design of the lifting device. It is pneumatic, driven by the engine exhaust system. Under the bottom of the body, between the side members, there are three car cameras in a case made of durable fabric - tarpaulin or synthetic canvas, attached with M5 screws to rings made of steel angle on the bottom of the body and on the frame. All chambers are connected to each other using threaded pipes, nuts, gaskets and washers, and a fitting bent in the shape of the letter “L” is screwed to the bottom, onto which a rubber hose is pulled.
Fig.5. Homemade trailer chassis:
1 - coupling device, 2 - frame spar (steel pipe 40×40), 3 - fixing device ear, 4 - body hinge, 5 - rear strut, 6 - front strut, 7 - wheel, 8 - rear cross member, 9 - suspension torsion bar axle, 10 — front cross member, 11 — bolts, nuts and washers securing the front strut, 12 — bolts, nuts and washers securing the bridge, 13, 14 — docking clamps.
To lift the body, you need to put the second end of the hose on the exhaust pipe of the towing vehicle and “add on the gas.”
Two or three minutes - and the body will rise. To lower the body, it is enough to remove the hose from the exhaust pipe. I. Khoroshevsky Light car trailers are popular among rural residents, summer residents and private construction crews. These units simplify the transportation of goods of different directions. You just had to unload it all with your own shovel, if it weren’t for the dump truck trailer for the passenger car. A trailer with a lifting body box will save you from annoying unloading work.
Features of dump truck trailer
Trailers for passenger cars come in several types and with different load capacities. All of them perform their main function - transporting things and cargo. Among the vast number of such units there is a tipper trailer for a passenger car. The front part of its body rises, which makes it easier to unload bulk cargo or load and unload motorcycles and special equipment.
Kurgan trailer Krepysh 8213 03
This may seem strange to some, since dump trailers are more often associated with heavy-duty truck units. But the technology for creating dump trailers for passenger cars has been mastered by manufacturers for decades. These units have the following characteristics:
Dimensions:
- Length – from 3 to 4 m.
- Width – from 1.5 to 1.7 m.
- Side height – from 0.3 to 0.4 m.
Equipped with additional equipment:
- Awning or frame.
- Snowmobile ramps.
- White fog lights or triangular reflectors.
- Multifunctional. They are good for transporting solid or bulk materials for construction, equipment, furniture and other goods.
- Suitable for transporting motorcycles.
Kurgan trailer "Universal Plus 8213"
Body and frame with a movable (hinge) joint that prevents the body from tipping over when moving. The joints are welded to the frame structure and screwed to the side members; a latch-type latch is installed at the front.
Features and Benefits
When transporting bulk cargo on a trailer, there are no special problems with loading them. But unloading is accompanied by the need to climb into the body and start scooping everything out manually, with shovels or other devices.
In such situations, the tipping mechanism becomes a real salvation. With its help, unloading is much easier and faster.
The following advantages of such systems can be cited:
- simplify the loading and unloading process;
- minimize human physical effort;
- the speed of unloading bulk cargo can be controlled;
- suitable for working with all kinds of loads;
- an indispensable device in agriculture and in the country;
- the mechanism can be installed with your own hands;
- does not interfere with the design of the trailer.
The essence of such a trailer is that its body has a movable connection to the frame. In conventional trailers, they are solid, which is why you can at most tip the entire trailer, including the tongue and wheels, backwards. This is inconvenient and potentially dangerous. Therefore, it is strongly not recommended to unload bulk cargo from ordinary flatbed trailers using this method.
How to choose a dump trailer
Before purchasing a trailer for a dump truck, take into account the conditions of use: city, highway, off-road, since car trailers are equipped with different suspensions designed for different conditions of use:
- The torsion bar takes turns with ease and is not whimsical.
- The leaf spring is good on the highway and off-road. Durable and easy to repair, but expensive to maintain.
Main criteria for choosing a trailer:
A trailer for a passenger car, a dump truck, can be:
- Buy. Many factories produce trailers with a lifting mechanism. Such units are created in accordance with GOST, so state registration will not be difficult.
- Build from scratch.
- Convert a flatbed trailer.
- Making it yourself: a dump trailer for a passenger car with your own hands is not difficult, but if you don’t have the skills, it’s better not to assemble it. If a dump trailer for a passenger car is made according to the requirements with your own hands, it will not be inferior to its analogue from the factory.
Pay attention to the following aspects:
- Components (imported ones last longer).
- Perform test loading and unloading to check the convenience and reliability of opening and closing the locking mechanisms.
- Take it for a test drive if possible.
- If you have car wheels with tires lying around in the garage, like the model you are buying, check out the possibility of purchasing a unit without wheels.
- Watch videos, options for modifications to on-board models, and study products from popular manufacturers.
Device options
To get a trailer that has a lifting (tipping) mechanism at your disposal, you can go in 2 ways:
- Do it yourself. This includes building from scratch and converting a finished flatbed trailer. Making your own homemade dump trailer is, in principle, not so difficult, since many people have enough experience and skills. I will give an example of how to make some variants of mechanisms yourself. Although, if you have no experience, it is better not to take on such work;
- Buy a ready-made version from the factory. Many enterprises, including MZSA (the same MZSA 817710) and Saransk trailers (city of Saransk) produce products that have a tipping mechanism. This is the optimal solution for many, as you get 2 in 1. The trailer remains a standard flatbed, but additionally allows the use of a tipper function. The design meets all requirements and GOST, so there will be no problems with registration with the traffic police. The same cannot be said about homemade devices.
If you are ready to use the drawings and assemble a dump trailer for a passenger car yourself, I have nothing against it. A homemade trailer, made according to all the canons and rules, can be on par with factory-made analogues.
The only question is which mechanism you will use.
In total, the following options are used for trailers:
- hydraulic;
- pneumatic;
- mechanical (manual, without hydraulics).
What should you choose? This is a good question, since each dump mechanism presented has its own nuances.
The main thing here is that the body has a movable connection with the frame. If usually they are firmly connected to each other, then a hinge connection is used here. Its mating parts are welded to the frame and screwed to the side members. A fastener is made at the front according to the principle of a conventional latch. This helps prevent the trailer from tipping over while the trailer is moving behind the car.
Before unloading, the latch is moved aside, freeing the connection between the body and the frame. It receives free movement, allowing you to unload bulk material, for example.
Factory trailers have their own design features. But the principle always comes down to ensuring that only the body (loading platform) tips over, without affecting the drawbar and wheels. It can be used as a basis for either a single-axle or a two-axle trailer.
But lifting mechanisms are different. Let's consider them separately.
Hydraulic
DIY dump trailer
One of the options for making a dump trailer for a car with your own hands:
- Regarding the design:
- Steel is selected to make a frame with a square section of 4x4 cm.
- The chassis is borrowed from a motorized stroller.
- Hydraulic shock absorbers with springs of the Ural motorcycle form the suspension.
- Tube struts connect the bridge to the frame.
- The unit is equipped with a standard coupling head.
- Body box - steel corners 3x3 cm and plywood sheathing 1.2 cm. Nuts with M6 screws are used for fastening.
- Two longitudinal spars made of wood 12x3 cm are fixed on the bottom.
- A hinge mechanism is used to secure the dump body box to the frame. It is welded to the spars or traverses, depending on where the unloading will take place.
- There is a lock in the front in the form of a latch, which prevents tipping over when moving.
- To organize pneumatics for tipping, three machine chambers in a thick cover made of canvas or tarpaulin are located between the side members on the bottom. They are attached using M5 screws to the rings from the corner located on the frame, the bottom of the body box.
- The chambers are connected using threaded pipes, nuts, gaskets, and washers.
- An L-shaped fitting with a stretched rubber hose is screwed to the lower chamber.
- Tipping is done by threading the other end of the hose onto the exhaust pipe, which will raise the body box in three minutes. Lowering - by disconnecting the hose and deflating the chambers.
Video about a homemade trailer body lifting mechanism
Comparison of homemade and factory trailers
You can buy a factory semi-trailer or a dump trailer. Trailers for mini tractors are sold in all cities of Russia. It's just the price that may disappoint you. The cheapest type costs 10 thousand rubles, not to mention the design with a lifting mechanism.
Why spend money when you can make a reliable and durable trailer for your equipment with your own hands. You just have to have the materials necessary for the business and, most importantly, the desire. By the way, if you have not decided on the choice of the tractor itself, then a reliable assistant for working on agricultural land is the Belarus MTZ tractor. This brand of manufacturer differs from others in its quality and durability. The price may be higher than average, but the characteristics are not inferior to other devices.
In order not to get confused in the choice, it is necessary to take into account the parameters described above. The choice is always yours, but remember that with your own hands you can make a more reliable and high-quality product than what is available on trading platforms.
Review of manufacturers and models
Plant of passenger car trailers "Vector".
- LAV-81011V:
Trailers manufactured by LAKER.
- Heavy Duty 400:
- Eurotrailer LLC model 711914-ATHOS, tilting backwards with a load capacity of 2 tons. Equipped with an electric jack and a 1.5 m awning. Involves the installation of a mesh superstructure.
- LLC "Trailer" model 829450 with a carrying capacity of 0.48 tons, body dimensions - 3x1.5 m. Equipped with a low or high awning and a hydraulic jack.
- Plant of passenger car trailers "Vector" model LAV 81012A - a platform with a folding ramp and spring suspension. Load capacity – 0.6 t.
- LLC Trading House "SaranskSpetsTekhnika" model SST-7132-6K - single-axle trailer with expanded functionality, load capacity -0.54 tons.
Comparison with conventional flatbed trailers
Why is a dump trailer for a passenger car more profitable:
- A dump truck trailer for a passenger car is suitable for transporting bulk substances: sand, gravel or soil, since its design allows you to instantly unload large volumes. Dump trailers for passenger cars are excellent where it is necessary to transport crops: grain, root crops; boards, earth, hay.
- Such trailers appeal to owners of self-propelled vehicles, since the tilting body box with a hinged tailgate ensures easy loading and unloading of motor vehicles.
- In flatbed trailers, the frame and body are one-piece, so the entire trailer tips over backwards. Inconvenience comes with danger, so unloading bulk materials from flatbed trailers is not recommended. The essence of the dump unit is a movable connection between the frame and the body.
Pros and cons of a dump trailer
Advantages of tipper passenger car trailers:
- Simplified loading and unloading.
- Minimal physical effort required by a person during unloading.
- Body lifting speed control.
- Ability to work with different loads.
- The mechanism can also be installed manually.
- The trailer structure is not damaged.
Video about the Kurgan dump trailer Krepysh
As for the cons. There are almost none:
- Hydraulics consists of hydraulic cylinders and a hydraulic pump. It’s difficult to create it yourself, but a purchased sample will be affordable.
- There are also a lot of problems and troubles with hydraulics and pneumatics.
If you plan to frequently transport various cargo and equipment, but there is no desire to modernize, purchasing a trailer with a tipper mechanism is an excellent option. This choice will protect you from alterations and the creation of unnecessary problems. It will allow you to use one trailer to transport the necessary cargo and equipment.
Travelers need a caravan on a long journey; it allows them to take with them all the necessary things, and there may be a lot of them. Industrial trailers are presented in a wide range, but they have one significant drawback - a fairly high price.
To save money, you can make a trailer for a car with your own hands; for this you will need to draw up a drawing, purchase the necessary material, and have the tools for manufacturing available.
Recommendations for use
Since we are talking about dump trailers as vehicles for transporting bulk cargo (although you can transport whatever you need), pay attention to a few recommendations regarding proper operation.
Compliance with them will allow you to avoid unnecessary fines and not create a danger on the road for other road users.
Trailer material
Often, in the garages of car owners, various rubbish lies as unnecessary cargo, which is a pity to throw out, but it has not found any use. You need to dig into these things and see if maybe something will be suitable for making homemade goods. What may be useful:
- wheels and springs from an old car, disassembled for parts;
- pieces of sheet iron;
- channel or corner;
- various fasteners (nuts, bolts);
- pieces of automotive electrical wiring.
You need to decide for yourself what the load capacity of a car trailer (AT) should be - the car’s passport details indicate what the maximum weight of the trailer is designed for. If some material is missing, you will have to purchase it in addition; you will also need a plug to connect the car's electrical wiring to the AP.
Do-it-yourself trailer for a car: drawing up a drawing
When all the necessary material has been collected, you can begin drawing up the drawing. It is not very easy to draw a sketch of a future product on paper yourself, so to make the task easier, you can take a ready-made drawing from the Internet as a basis, and make your own adjustments to it as you create the design. The car owner should also remember that the homemade product will have to be registered with the traffic police, and it is important to note that the coupling device can only be used here as a factory-made one.
For example, a drawing of the Zhiguli AP can serve as a model for a future trailer, if the vehicle itself is similar in size and carrying capacity to this car model. Any car trailer consists of the following main parts:
- body;
- frames;
- drawbar;
- coupling device.
In any case, the frame must be rigid, so it is made of durable steel. As a rule, the body is also made of ferrous metal, but it can also be aluminum or wood.
A homemade trailer for a passenger car usually has one axle, but it can also be biaxial. The main advantages of a two-axle trailer are:
- road stability;
- large load capacity.
But the two-axle design has its drawbacks, such a trailer:
- more difficult to control, especially during manual maneuvering;
- weighs quite a lot;
- less mobile.
When making a homemade product, it should be taken into account that a single-axle AP should be designed for transported cargo weighing no more than 750 kg. The rules for operating vehicles with trailers also state that the load on one wheel cannot exceed 700 kg.
Caravans vary according to type of use:
Trailers are often equipped with an awning; motorhomes, which are very convenient for long journeys, are also popular among motor tourists. True, to transport such a design, a passenger car must have sufficient carrying capacity; crossovers and SUVs are well suited for towing.
How to make a wheel alignment with your own hands: a simple technique
- Bulk cargo is transported only on special trailers designed for such purposes. Another reason to buy rather than assemble it yourself;
- An awning, plastic cover or other covering is placed on top of the body;
- The absence of a protective awning does not allow transporting bulk cargo above the level of the edge of the side. Operation without an awning leads to the loss of cargo, its spilling onto the road and creating a danger for cars that pick you up;
- Observe the speed limit when driving with a trailer;
- Do not exceed the established trailer load capacity;
- To transport bulk cargo, the trailer must be equipped with rigid sides. Preferably galvanized.
All this is provided initially at the factory. When converting a conventional trailer, problems and difficulties sometimes arise.
If you don’t want to modernize, but your plans include the need to transport different types of cargo, including bulk cargo, then it’s better to initially buy yourself a trailer equipped with a dumping mechanism.
This choice will allow you to use one trailer for different purposes, rather than redo something and create unnecessary problems for yourself.
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The cost of an industrial car trailer for a passenger car
Industrial trailers have different prices, the price depends on:
- on the complexity of manufacturing;
- dimensions;
- quality of materials used;
- type (purpose);
- configurations
The simplest general purpose trailer will be the cheapest in terms of cost, for example, you can buy a trailer of the LAV-81011 model from on average for 40 thousand rubles. The characteristics of this design are as follows:
- own weight – 175 kg;
- weight of transported cargo – 525 kg;
- The maximum weight of a loaded aircraft is 700 kg.
The trailer has dimensions of 2.9/1.6/1.28 m (length/width/height) and has a very good ground clearance of 167 mm. LAV-81011 is equipped with an awning, its height is 0.45 m. The sides of the body of this model can be folded down or completely removed; there are two modifications.
There are trailers that are much more expensive, for example, a trailer for transporting boats costs on average from 200 to 350 thousand rubles.
Tool for making a homemade trailer
To make homemade products, designers primarily use welding; there are motorists who only use it. Using gas welding, you can not only weld structural parts, but also cut pieces of metal of the required size with a cutter.
Even when assembling a homemade structure, the following is often used:
- angle grinder (grinder);
- automotive tools (spanners and socket wrenches, sockets with wrenches and extensions).
Having drawn up a drawing, the DIYers first begin to manufacture the frame. To assemble it, a steel channel is very often used, so that the metal can withstand loads well; its cross-section must be at least 25x50 mm. Also, the frame is often made of a metal pipe, but it is more convenient to work with a channel.
The rolled metal is first cut to the dimensions specified in the drawing, then the sections of the channel profile are welded together. After welding the main body, the frame should be reinforced with additional stiffeners, otherwise the structure will be unreliable.
If you plan to create a trailer on springs, brackets should be welded to the frame. The springs will be attached to the frame base with bolts and nuts, and the axle and springs will be connected using stepladders. The brackets are welded with a slight offset to the rear of the structure, this ensures the greatest stability of the homemade trailer.
Next, a drawbar should be welded to the frame, and a towbar should be mounted at its end. If the connection point between the trailer and the car is made too long, driving the trailer will not be very convenient, and it will be especially difficult to maneuver in reverse. The drawbar must be welded strictly in the center, otherwise the trailer will pull to the side. Even for a single-axle design, it is necessary to distribute the weight so that the main load of the empty AP falls approximately on the bogies; the heavier the carts, the force on the coupling device will increase, and it will be under constant tension.
A part of the coupling device is installed at the end of the connecting unit; the tow bar can be rigidly attached to the drawbar by welding, or with bolts and nuts.
Next you should work on the body; the easiest way is to make it from plywood or wood. The plywood floor is screwed to the base with bolts and nuts; the sides are better made of a more durable material - wood or sheet iron. It would also be a good idea to cover the floor with sheets of iron; plywood can quickly become scratched and become unusable.
But the assembly of the trailer does not end there; it is still necessary to install the rear lights and connect the wiring. Two-axle trailers are often equipped with brakes; the braking system makes driving the vehicle easier. It is especially important to install brakes on a trailer for transporting heavy loads weighing more than 1400 kg.
An AP is often necessary for transporting bulk cargo - river sand, gravel or crushed stone. Unloading construction materials from a regular body is inconvenient - unloading takes a lot of time. You can make the task easier by installing a dump-type body on the trailer, with a reverse tipping mechanism.
The frame and axle in this design have a movable connection, and a manual body lifting mechanism is installed in front.
You don’t have to install the mechanism, but then you need to weld a support in front. In this option, the body will tip backwards under its own weight when the locking device is removed.
For a homemade dump truck trailer, it is important that its sides tip over.
To connect the trailer to the car body, you need to install a tow bar on the car. A towbar for a car consists of parts:
- hinge with hook;
- power beam;
- sockets for connecting wires.
The industry produces towbars of various designs; there are trailer hitches in which the hook is welded to the beam, and together with the hinge it represents a single, monolithic structure. But more often hinges are produced with a removable hook, and this version of the device has the advantage that in case of damage to the coupling joint or wear of the ball, the coupling can always be replaced.
There are also trailer hitch systems where the ball can be removed from the hook and replaced separately. Many towbars are equipped with a safety device that prevents complete loss of connection between the car and the trailer; it is necessary for safety.
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If you need to lower the trailer body, remove the hose from the exhaust and that’s it, the chambers begin to gradually deflate.
Mechanical
I agree that there are quite a lot of hassles and problems with pneumatics and hydraulics. In practice, most trailer owners make do with a conventional mechanical tipper.
Here it is also necessary that the frame and axle of the passenger trailer have a movable connection with each other. This will make the body partially independent and movable. There will be a manual mechanism in front, with the help of which the body tips over backwards.
Although you can do without such a mechanism. It is enough to weld a support in the front part. The body will then tip over due to its own weight when you remove the locking device. But this is only relevant when using a single-axle trailer. Biaxial due to 4 wheels, they firmly and confidently maintain balance, regardless of the connection to the car’s towbar.
The advantage is that the price of such modification is the lowest. And among factory trailers, models with a mechanical dumping device are the most affordable. And an excellent solution would be to use a winch. Convenient, simple, and physically easier.
It's up to you to decide what to choose. You can watch different videos, look at the results of modifications to conventional flatbed trailers, or study the range of well-established manufacturers.
For safety, reliability and ease of use, I would advise you to purchase a factory dump trailer. Their range is impressive, and their pricing policy is at a pleasant level. And there will be no difficulties with registration.