How to sharpen a straight razor correctly: belt, stone, sandpaper

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• 04 February 2019
• Adviсe

Sharpening a straight razor is not as simple as it seems at first glance.
Here it is worth following the technology itself, using only the necessary tools and accessories. Experienced craftsmen know how to sharpen a straight razor; it can be difficult for beginners at first. And the razor may not sharpen well for a long time. But with constant training, the result can be brought to perfection. Let's look at how you can sharpen a straight razor.

Dangerous design

“Opaska” is also considered a tool that technologically consists of parts. These parts must be used correctly. Like any tool or product, it has a design and technological map. Before you sharpen a straight razor, you need to study its design.

In its structure it has many details:

• double base;
• blade;
• head;
• back;
• brand;
• tail;
• heel;
• lever.

The “guard” consists of two main parts – a handle and a metal blade (blade). Technologically, as a safety feature, a hole was designed in the handle into which the blade “hides” so as not to injure anyone. The dangerous blade itself rotates freely along its axis during operation, but is strictly fixed between the handle mounts. The handle has ridges and gaps (erlem) that provide a rigid grip between the hand and the tool. The main thing is to sharpen a straight razor correctly.

The blade angle is 12 degrees for maximum grip on the cutting material. The device works as cleanly as possible, unlike modern machines and electric shavers. But not everyone can use it; it requires a lot of skills and training.

I don’t want to study, I want it straight away!

Japanese masters said: “Out of a hundred students sent to be sharpeners, only one has the ability, and out of a hundred capable ones, only one will become a decent master.” Well, they are all to hell with this approach! After all, the meat for shish kebab needs to be cut right now! So, if you are learning Zen in other ways, or you don’t have enough time/patience, or, finally, you suffer from an acute form of upper limb aphedronality, don’t despair. Especially for such cases, there are a lot of simple but effective devices that help keep the cutting tool in very good condition. Twenty years ago, the pioneer and main manufacturer of such devices was the American company Lansky; its Lansky Sharpening System (LSS) set was a kind of standard on the market. Today, our dear Chinese comrades offer exact copies of the “system” at half or three times the price. The stones, of course, are of a lower grade, but otherwise the thing is quite suitable.

American and Chinese sets - the choice is yours

As you can see, everything is very simple and effective. Anyone can do it. However, more complex sharpening devices are now available, real machines with a bunch of adjustments and replaceable whetstones.

But LSS remains a timeless classic. In our area it was dubbed the “Lansky corner” - and be careful not to confuse it with the “Lansky flyer”. The flyer is also a simple device from the same company and it also helps in maintaining the sharpness of the knife. However, it is not suitable for sharpening, but for editing it is the sweetest thing. “CrockStick” are two pairs of metal-ceramic rods of different grain sizes in a wooden box-stand.

Place a pair of rods at the desired angle, take the knife with your “working hand”, and hold the base of the sharpener with your weak hand. Hold the pre-sharpened blade vertically and move it downwards, as if cutting a piece of sausage - the cermet will quickly bring the edge to a razor sharpness. The “corner + flyer” pair is an almost ideal option for anyone who doesn’t want to bother with bars. However, there are a lot of “bagels” on the market now, from famous manufacturers to budget Chinese. Choose according to your taste and wallet.

Straight Razor Sharpening Tools

Straight razors are sharpened or straightened using two tools - a stone and a belt. But these two processes are technologically different from each other. It is necessary to straighten a straight razor after the sharpening process. Therefore, before you learn how to sharpen a straight razor, you need to know what these two terms mean.

Only specialists know exactly how to sharpen blades with a stone correctly. Additionally, most straight razors are sharpened during production.

Sharpening any straight razor involves the process of turning the metal on a stone. There are special instructions for this. In this case, the razor blades should be as sharp as possible. Various tools are used for this. This is a sharpening belt, stones, sandpaper or special sandpaper.

After sharpening, the straight razor is straightened on the belt. It allows you to smooth out the metal sheet, removing irregularities and burrs. A straightening belt is a must-have tool that a craftsman definitely cannot do without. In this case, two types of belts are used - suspended and with wooden handles. The condition of the straight razor and its sharpening will depend on correct editing.

It will take time to get the hang of it and learn how to work with it, since the sharpening angle of a straight razor must be correct and not change. If an inexperienced hand changes the angle, cracks and unevenness may appear, after which errors and possibly injuries will occur during the shaving process.

How to use correctly at home?

First, the skin is prepared:

• For a smooth shave, the face is washed and steamed.
• Use a terry cloth soaked in warm water and apply it to your face for 2-3 minutes.
• Many men prefer to use soap during the procedure, but it can dry out the skin, so purchase special foam.

Movements with the blade are carried out in the direction of hair growth. To make the shaved area smooth, you need to run the blade over it several times.

Start on the right side of your face, using your left fingers to stretch the skin. Then go to the left side. You need to stretch the skin so as not to miss a single area.

When operating with a blade, you should tilt your head for convenience; when cleaning the chin and neck, tilt your head back. All actions are performed carefully and slowly, this is the only way the skin will not be injured.

After shaving is completed, a damp, warm towel is applied to the face and balm is applied to the skin. This way you can prevent the spread of irritation and redness on your face.

How to shave with a straight razor is shown in the video:

How to hold a beginner?

It is also important to master the shaving technology itself and how to operate the machine correctly. At the same time, experts recommend knowing three ways to hold a razor in your hands:

At the same time, experts recommend knowing three ways to hold a razor in your hands:

1. Depending on the direction of the blade, that is, the tip should point either up or down.
2. Depending on the angle of rotation, that is, the razor is located relative to the wrist.
3. The little finger should be on the tail of the machine.

Hold the tool by the handle with three fingers - thumb, index and middle, the little finger is in place of the neck and fixes the direction of the razor. The most important thing is to hold the razor firmly in your hands, but without much tension.

The sharper, the less stubble

Many people wonder how a sharp blade can affect hair growth, because in any case, it will appear again. In fact, if you don't want thick stubble, then always choose a sharp razor.

The advantage of a blade razor over other tools is that a well-sharpened blade makes shaving easier, which means the result will be better. But a dull blade will tear facial hair and lead to irritation.

Hair angle

The razor blade should move with the toe forward, and the angle of inclination should be within 30 degrees; you should not bring it to 40 degrees.

• All movements are carried out with ease and ease.
• The movement is carried out only by the brush, which does everything rhythmically, but at the same time softly.

If you use your entire hand during shaving, the hair will not be shaved, but pulled out. As a result, the skin will become irritated.

How to properly tighten the skin?

This should be done to better remove stubble. After this, the skin will become smooth, like a baby's.

How to do it correctly:

1. The tension is done with either the middle or index finger, and the skin is stretched in the opposite direction of the movement of the blade.
2. The indentation is made by 2-3 cm. In this case, the fingers should be on an area not lubricated with foam.
3. To do this, the soap formation is pushed back with the back of the razor.

Tilt and direction

The angle of inclination, as already mentioned, is 30 degrees. This is necessary so that the skin becomes as smooth as possible and no areas of irritation appear.

If you make the angle sharper, you won't be able to shave like that, since the blade will slide over the surface of the skin. If you increase the angle distance more than 40 degrees, there is a risk of cutting.

Sharpening on a stone

Initially, sharpening of a new razor takes place at the manufacturer's factory; only over time, the master may need to adjust the metal. At the same time, the razor blade is sharp when purchased. Still, you shouldn’t touch the canvas. Sharpening a straight razor with your own hands will be necessary in the future.

Many companies sell sharpening stones; they differ in the materials of production and the principle of operation. The most popular are synthetic stones with a favorable price and good quality of work. When using a stone, you must remember that razor blades are sensitive to any rough mechanical action.

How to sharpen a straight razor correctly? In order to start sharpening, you need to choose the right stone. Nowadays, synthetic stones have become more popular. They are not very expensive, so the final result is no worse. But there are still aspects that a new buyer should pay attention to:

• The shape of the product must be maintained and not bend;
• no discharge;
• the working surface is homogeneous, fine-grained;
• there should be no dense lumps on the stone;
• a bar of a certain size, there are 50*150, 70*200, 60*180.

How to sharpen a straight razor at home? This requires skill and experience, so a beginner is unlikely to achieve the initially desired result. Therefore, you can turn to professionals to shave you with a straight razor. Or try to do everything yourself.

So, a sharpening stone is needed only in extreme cases. If you still had to use it, then you should not neglect the rules of technology. Instructions on how to sharpen a straight razor:

• the stone should be slightly moistened with water;
• you need to hold it confidently with two fingers - index and thumb;
• fix the comb and blade in your hand so that they do not “walk” during the process;
• it will be correct to guide the blade along the stone;
• We sharpen the other side of the blade in the same way in the opposite direction from the previous one (we turn the blade and sharpen it using an upward movement).

How to sharpen a straight razor at home correctly? Technologically, the process looks simple, but in reality it is not. It is quite difficult to maintain the correct angle when sharpening. It takes practice. Also, you should not press hard during the process; the master’s movements should be smooth and confident.

Important Rules

To store belts, it is necessary to cover them with a special paste and separate them, preventing the paste from being smeared onto clean belts. Mixing abrasives of different grits may result in poor results. If the belts become dirty, they must first be cleaned and polished.

Most people store their belts rolled or folded. However, this cannot be allowed. Deformation leads to the appearance of wrinkles on the skin, and serious problems can arise with their removal. For storage it is better to choose a closed cabinet. It is necessary that the belt is protected from dust. This is a very abrasive composition, despite the fact that we only see dust when there is serious layering.

Before each use, the accessory is thoroughly rubbed with a clean, dry palm. It should be warm and smooth. This preheating will allow you to lubricate the work surface with your sebum, as well as remove all dust particles from the surface.

If you use a hanging strap, you need to use a secure hook to secure it. If it falls during the sharpening process, you will not only lose the belt and ruin the sharpening of the razor, but you may also suffer from the blade accidentally slipping. In this case, the tension of the hanging belt should be done so that when straightening the razor, the belt can be held flat. It doesn't require much effort.

One of the most important rules when working is to turn the razor over the blade. Remember that turning over the blade is not allowed. In this case, you can cut the belt, or simply fill up the edge.

It may seem that the technologies and rules described above are very complex. Yes, sharpening is not an easy task. But you must admit how nice it is to shave with a freshly sharpened blade. This is a kind of initiation into the sacrament that surrounds such an intimate process as shaving.

Editing on the belt

How to shave a straight razor on a belt? Some people say "sharpen", but this is wrong. They only use the belt to correct it. The belts used in this craft typically have one side made of pure leather and the other side made up of a fabric backing. Straightening with a belt is carried out under strict control of the tension and angle of the functional surface.

How to shave a straight razor? Technologically, it is necessary to observe the sequence: for every fifty wires on the skin, fifteen wires on the fabric are replaced. The most important rule when editing is to observe the angle of the blade and the tension of the belt itself.

Before sharpening a straight razor on a belt, you need to check all the initial parameters. The width of the straightening belt must correspond to the width of the most dangerous blade being straightened. Otherwise, if the belt is smaller than the blade, then during operation you will have to shift the blade area in order to straighten everything evenly.

The belt should be taut, especially if the technician is using a hanging belt. There is no need to use special efforts when editing. If the belt comes off the hook, be careful not to get hurt by the sharp blade, which, with effort, can also jump off your hand and you will not be able to edit the straight razor.

If the technology for straightening the belt is correctly followed, with the correct tilt and tension, the master will hear a characteristic echo.

A bread slicer for each

(Photo: Typical “knife in the car, just in case”) Everyone has knives. Regardless of who you are—an experienced nymphomaniac who won’t go out on the street without three blades and a multi-tool, or an inveterate pacifist and non-resistance to violence—you definitely have a knife. If not with you, then at home in the kitchen. Or in the car. Expensive or cheap, warehouse, tourist, hunting, bought from a fashion catalogue, given to a friend “for a penny”, made in the zone or machined at a secret factory from a rocket nozzle - there are countless of them. Three quarters of them are stupid. Sometimes you go with friends to the pampas, you need to cut something, and they’re like: “Oh! I have a knife in my glove compartment!” Something fearful is brought into the light of God, whose wit varies from “dumb as a Siberian felt boot” to “only used to cut up dead mongrels.” And what? They used this to open cans, chop nails on a dare, and pick at bricks. This is how it became. It’s easier for me - I always have a “folding bag” with me, for a quarter of a century now. And it's sharp. Do you want the same? Learn to sharpen.

Sandpaper or sandpaper

A straight razor (sharpening) can be produced by alternative methods. An alternative to using a belt and a stone is to use sandpaper or sandpaper. But in this case there are some nuances.

How to sharpen a straight razor at home using sandpaper? Today it is quite difficult to find sandpaper of the required abrasiveness; a grit size of more than 2000 is required. Therefore, experienced craftsmen usually combine this method with a belt. It is better for beginners not to practice yet.

From the history of the razor

The issue of putting things in order on a man’s face arose in ancient times, when wearing a bushy beard on the face became “indecent” in high society. Chin hair was worn exclusively by “barbarians”, with whom the civilized world (Egypt, Rome, Etruscans, Alba and others) did not want to associate themselves.

Shaving was a very dangerous undertaking. Cleaning yourself up using a device with a straight blade was truly suicidal. It is no coincidence that the barber profession existed virtually unchanged for hundreds and hundreds of years, and in Europe barbers often also performed some medical procedures. Barbers are like white sharks, their skills are so subtle and perfect that they simply do not need to evolve.

From the point of view of shaving quality, the “gasp” has a lot of advantages over machines.

Interestingly, arched shaving blades appeared as early as the 1st millennium BC, as evidenced by archaeological finds. The wedge-shaped razor existed almost unchanged until the beginning of the 20th century. Everything changed with the appearance of the T-shaped razor from Gillette, which guaranteed safety, comfort and... degradation of the sacred process of shaving into something unbearably ordinary.

In the 20th century, “caution” became an item from the retro world. This device has practically ceased to be used in everyday life. It was mainly purchased by hairdressers, since the blade is very convenient for straightening beards, temples and the back of the head.

Care and storage

A straight razor (proper sharpening of which is very important) must be stored properly. Storing the tool is quite important, since it can deteriorate much faster than possible. Therefore, after the question: how can you sharpen a straight razor, you need to think about its proper storage.

If you do not use a straight razor often, then after shaving you should thoroughly rinse the blade, dry it and pack it away. Storage takes place in a well-ventilated place, in packaging. Under no circumstances should a dangerous blade be left lying around; this is a strict violation of its storage.

If the blade is constantly in use, then it is advisable to have one or two more tools in reserve. This will allow the tool to last much longer in use.

The metal in the storage location should “rest” after work. A blade that is not planned to be taken out for a long time can be lubricated with paraffin. Then the question of how to sharpen a straight razor will not arise for a long time.

What is important to know

The main accessory for men's daily grooming that requires attention is machines. Mainly used - disposable, T-shaped or reusable with replaceable cassettes.

It happens that the blade becomes dull or the replacement cassettes run out. You have to shave with unsuitable material, which results in severe skin irritation, abrasions on the face, and the hair is shaved poorly.

Home techniques will quickly restore the original appearance of the sharp material, extend the shelf life, help save money and help out in any situation.

Some tips

• Straight razor belts must be stored correctly. The belt must be clean, smooth, without stains or any third-party damage or dents. Defects are not acceptable, but they can occur if stored incorrectly. Before using it for straightening, the belt must be carefully checked and, if necessary, cleaned. To store the belt correctly - lubricate the belt with a special paste while it is not in use, but do not allow it to touch other clean parts.
• How to edit a razor on a belt, and how to store it correctly? A mistake many home craftsmen make is storing the belt folded. This way the belt bends and defects form, which prevents it from being used for a long time, requires replacement, etc. It is advisable to store the belt for straightening a dangerous blade in a separate closed cabinet, preventing even dust from getting on it. Dust spoils the abrasiveness, even if it is not noticeable to the eye.
• Sharpening any razor has one more important rule - turning the blade over. Turning over the edge of the metal blade (blade) is strictly prohibited, as there is a danger of cutting the belt and breaking the edge.
• Nowadays, few people use a blade razor; modern technologies are taking their toll. But there remains that small percentage of thrill-seekers who prefer to pay tribute to antiquity. This is where a dangerous blade will come in handy. The important thing here is to sharpen and straighten any straight razor on a belt.

Many people compare sharpening a straight razor to a meditative activity. And this makes some sense, since from beginning to end the whole process captures the master, all his attention and requires complete concentration. The man is involved in the process, thereby feeling stern and brave, who owns such a cold weapon.

Preparation

The preparatory stage involves making a preliminary assessment of the geometry of the razor tool in order to find out what type of sharpener will be required (coarse or fine).

Evaluate the geometry by placing the instrument on a flat surface (preferably glass). It should be in contact with the leads and edge of the razor. If the fit on the side of the cutting edge and the backing is not tight enough, preference is given to a coarse abrasive.

The geometry of the tool is assessed from both sides.

Examine the “caution” for the straightness of the cutting edge line.

If there is a geometric defect - a “reverse smile” - it will not allow you to properly sharpen the tip. It will need to be fixed.