DIY laser level

Level, level, plane builder - with the advent of the “laser” prefix, these useful devices for precise orientation in space acquire a modern sound and at the same time a significant cost. Despite the fact that any of the devices can significantly make the life of a builder, repairman, or simply a thrifty and homely owner, many are in no hurry to purchase “professional” models, mainly because of the high price. However, expensive equipment for one-time use (for example, leveling walls) can be completely replaced with a homemade device. To do this, you must first understand the structure of the level or plane builder.

Principle of operation

The basic element of any device whose name includes the word “laser” is an emitter of highly targeted monochromatic (one-color) radiation. The phenomenon is based on forced radiation, which, depending on the power, is perceived differently. Low-power laser emitters based on red, red-orange, yellow-orange and green diodes make it possible to produce a point or beam of light. At a high level of pumped energy, a laser beam can turn into a weapon - it can set fire to materials that absorb radiation well.

Devices used in everyday life and construction and repair work operate on laser diodes of the red, yellow-orange and green spectrum; blue and violet ones are much less common (such models are much more expensive). To concentrate light radiation, biconvex lenses are used, as well as other optical devices that allow the beam to be converted into a plane.

Household appliances have a standard circuit shown in the illustration. Design variations are related to the power of the emitter and additional accessories.

What to look for when choosing

If a digger decides to replace the broken rod of his metal detector, he should pay attention to original spare parts, new or even contract ones. You can buy “original” rods for almost all serial products.

If buying or making a new rod is a matter of tuning, then you should go from the tasks: to make the device lighter, or to expand the range of tasks, or, conversely, to narrow it. For example, it’s only worth taking carbon fiber for a beach cop - aluminum doesn’t do well in sea water and corrodes.

But the main thing in a barbell is not the weight, but the balance. If you constantly have to “push” the metal detector away from you, if it hits your elbow, the balance is in the armrest, and this is bad. If, on the contrary, the hand turns forward and the elbow pushes upward, that’s also nothing good.

Balance is an individual thing and it is worth choosing a barbell so that it matches the user’s sensations.

Laser-based level and level design

Laser levels and levels use the principle of directly indicating a target - a point or line on a surface. They can be tracked directly (in relatively low light) or through the eyepiece of the device.

In addition to a point or line (the trace of the intersection of a light plane with a solid opaque surface), levels and levels allow you to obtain a cross-shaped pointer, as well as simultaneously use two or more emitters.

Due to the scattering of the laser beam into a plane, such devices are often called “laser plane builders”. In general, the set of functions of the device depends on the number of emitters and optical devices for concentrating or scattering the beam.

Lower rod

Prefabricated or solid, telescopic or composite. Generally speaking, length adjustment is possible only through the lower rod, which is why on production models it is made at least two-part.

When making it for yourself, you don’t have to make any connections - the structure will be lighter and stronger. But a non-adjustable lower rod will then limit the search area - in basements or low attics a short rod is more convenient.

Substitutes for professional equipment

In homemade devices, a special laser emitter is replaced with a conventional laser pointer. With sufficient power and quality, as well as the presence of two or more attachments that allow you to transform the laser beam, such a pointer is quite suitable for making a laser level with your own hands. You just need to take care of sufficiently strong and convenient fastening and installation of the pointer in a strictly defined position with the possibility of displacement.

As can be seen in the illustration, a telescopic tripod with a convenient mount that allows the holder to be rotated is used to mount the professional device. Since such tripods are often found in the households of amateur photographers, they can be easily adapted to make a tripod for a laser level with your own hands. If you don’t have a tripod, you can make a simple stand based on a stick or timber with a support at the bottom, use a container of water or a hanging mechanism. These options will be discussed in detail below.

Bar armrest

It can be removable or non-removable, adjustable or non-adjustable. Of course, when purchasing, you should choose an adjustable armrest, and when manufacturing, opt for a stationary version - it’s lighter, more durable, and easier to manufacture.

How to make a laser level on a tripod

If you have a tripod and a construction bubble (“spirit level”) level, creating a device comes down to installing a tripod and attaching a level to it with a laser pointer fixed on it. The illustration shows a level with an existing groove for the pointer, but in fact the fastening is simply done using clamps, wire or even tape.

The most difficult part is the correct orientation of the laser beam. To do this, it is advisable to insert a piece of hard rubber or foam between the pointer and the surface of the level, securing it with clamps or elastic bands, as shown in the diagram.

Here 1 is a pointer, 2 is a piece of dense and moderately elastic material, 3 is clamps or elastic bands. After setting the bubble level strictly horizontally (this can be done on any flat surface), the laser pointer turns on. By cutting the insert and tightening the clamps tighter or looser, we carry out a kind of adjustment of the level (of the future). Once parallelism between the horizontal plane and the laser beam has been achieved, you can mount the resulting device on a tripod in any convenient way.

Reviews of models and manufacturers

Users say kind words about the Golden Mask carbon fiber rods - they are light and durable. They even buy these rods and put coils and control units from other metal detectors on them.

XP has taken an interesting step by releasing rods for its Orx device and promoting them as a viable alternative to replacing coils on a single rod. The weight of the all-plastic rod is only 300 grams. The wireless control unit can be easily and quickly transferred from rod to rod, saving time on replacing the coil or the lower rod with the coil.

We recommend watching a video about the Ice 250 (Garrett Ace) metal detector with a universal rod from Mars MD.

The universal rod is more interesting than the standard one.

Another example of replacing a rod is a video from the Ohio Metal Detecting channel about using a fiberglass rod from Anderson Detectors for Minelab Excalibur.

Support in the form of a rod, float device or suspension

As already mentioned, in the absence of a tripod, we use improvised means - a barbell made from a broom handle, a shovel or just a piece of timber, or a container of water.

The structure of the rod is very simple: a beam or stick is attached to a piece of board or OSB board (plywood) strictly vertically and so that the structure is stable. You can check the angle between the support and the rod with a building square, but it is better to use a regular building level. Spacers can be used as support, as shown in the diagram below. A block the size of a bubble level with an attached pointer is mounted to the top of the rod - and the device is ready.

If you place a large container on the floor, filled almost to the brim with water, and place a level with a laser pointer on a flat piece of foam, you will also get a quite suitable support for a homemade level. In addition, in a container with water, the device can rotate freely, “drawing” a plane along all the walls of the room. Interestingly, for such a “float” level you don’t even need a bubble level. With an even piece of foam plastic on which the pointer is rigidly and strictly horizontally fixed, the laser beam will move only horizontally - due to the impeccable evenness and horizontality of the water surface. Simple steps for making such a laser level with your own hands and its operation are shown in the video.

The suspension is even easier to install. A beam is attached to a chandelier hook or other similar mount on the ceiling of the room using a rope or thin wire. A laser pointer is fixed on the beam so that the light beam is directed to the floor (if floor marking is needed) or to the walls. Next, by rotating the resulting level from the pointer, we obtain a light point or line on the desired surface. In the illustration, a tripod is used as a mount for the hanging level, and the pointer itself is fixed in a hole drilled in a beam.

Do-it-yourself rod for a laser level - Metalworker's Guide

To make such a rod you need two tubes. Choose a diameter such that one fits into the other. Choose the length based on the height of the room. The length of one should be half the length of the second. Cut the long one in half.

We insert a smaller tube into a larger tube, and also onto the other end. The telescopic effect has been achieved. We drill holes on the tubes and weld nuts there. We screw the wings into them to secure the tubes (so that they don’t move together).

If you need spacers (legs) like a tripod, you can use ski poles. Well, you can figure out the fasteners for the level yourself.

add to favorites link thank

DIY optical level tripod made of polypropylene pipes

To use an optical level comfortably, it requires a tripod; sometimes you need to mark a horizontal line somewhere on the wall, while the level stands on the floor; you have to come up with stands for it.

Of course, tripods are sold, their cost depends on the height and type of construction, and starts from 1500 rubles (the smallest one), and given the fact that you will use the tripod very rarely (trust me), there is no point in spending money on it, or not at all So, it’s a pity to buy an expensive tripod, so I decided to make it with my own hands from polypropylene pipes, and at the same time try out a welding machine for these pipes.

Of course, if you think that you will use a tripod very often, and even more so you need to carry it with you, then it is better to choose a factory-made one, or there are a lot of such tripods, you can look at this link.

Okay, let's proceed directly to manufacturing, for this we will need:

PP pipe (D 25 mm, 2.5 m) - 1 piece
PP pipe (D 20 mm, 2.5 m) - 1 piece
Tee PP 25 mm – 3 pieces
Pipe holder 25 mm - 5 pieces
Hot glue gun
How to cut pipes, I had a reciprocating saw
Polt or pin that is screwed into the level (from below)

Almost everything is assembled

We cut the pipes to size, I chose the size of the support legs about 30 cm

Let’s figure out what it will look like, we need to keep the proportions somehow

We warm up the machine for welding polypropylene, bought by the way in Leroy Merlin for 800 rubles, it seems to cook well, the water supply system at the dacha was installed using it, there have been no leaks so far.

When I welded the central tee to the pipes, I bent them slightly down towards the floor (relative to the tee itself), so that the center was slightly raised, this makes it easier to use the tripod on an uneven surface. The arrows show where to bend.

I also bent the legs down so that the side tees would also rise from the floor, as a result the level stands on four points of support (points), and not flat

I welded the central tube into which the 20 mm pipe will fit, because the tripod is telescopic.

I cut the pipe by 25 mm, at a height of 1 meter, inserted a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm into it (in the store I immediately measured it to fit into each other), cut it completely inserted, and left a few cm.

Next, you need to secure the bolt with the thread up, in the tube on which a level or something else will be attached. I did this using a heat gun, a very convenient thing to have around the house. You can buy it at a hardware store or order it from China (cheaper and more choice)

I soldered the bolt into the pipe and it holds well. This is what happened

I attached an optical level to a tripod and extended it to its maximum, resulting in an impressive height. The closet in the background won't let you lie.

I tried it with the level on, it is self-leveling, it calibrated to the horizon without problems, as evidenced by the green color of the power button.

Field tests already at construction site

Based on actual use, I can say the following:

It is better to take stronger pipes, these are quite flimsy, and the level may wobble if pulled out higher, which is why it may not be calibrated at all.

There is no need to install pipe holders at the ends of the legs; due to the fact that the pipes are curved relative to the tees, they stand normally.

The cost was about 200 rubles.

For those who don't have a laser level but want one

I bought my level from Leroy Merlin. It’s not expensive, it cost 2500, it’s a very useful thing, I don’t regret the purchase.

For those who do not have such stores in the city, and the greed of sellers is off the charts, you can order from China, I will leave here a link to the search page on Ali, specifically Laser levels, read the reviews before buying.

Inexpensive levels are household ones, they are not visible in daylight, you can only work indoors even during the day, their range is several meters. In general, see for yourself.

And I almost forgot, these scissors are used for cutting polypropylene and metal-plastic.

I bought it in Leroy Merlin, for 400 rubles, for those who don’t have the opportunity, you can buy it on Ali, I made a selection of inexpensive ones, link to Ali.

That's all I have, thanks for your attention. Ask questions, I will answer as soon as possible.

Additions to the homemade laser level device

Additional details and the use of not one, but two or more laser pointers will help increase the accuracy of the device. One of the simplest improvements is the use of a bubble level with two pointers, mounted on a rotating flange with markings, which will help you rotate the device to an arbitrary angle. In order for the system to work properly, it is important to accurately align the axes of the laser beams and secure the flange strictly horizontally. The convenience of the system is that it can be mounted on a tripod or rod.

By changing the position of the levels and the number of pointers, you can get a laser marker that provides a light cross.

If your household already has an optical level, you can use it as a stand to add a laser pointer. An example of such a design is shown in the photo.

The scheme is extremely simple: a bar with a “bundle” of a construction bubble level and a laser pointer attached to it, rigidly mounted on the level’s stand.

For those who have a tripod for a camera or video camera at their disposal, we offer a diagram of a do-it-yourself level made from a tripod with adjustable legs, brackets and the same “bundle” of level + pointer.

Tip for attaching the coil

In most serial metal detectors, the coil mount is made in the form of a bushing, which is T-shaped attached to the lower rod. The coil ears cover the ends of the bushing, and a fastening bolt is threaded through the holes.

But not the entire series is like this. Tesla went a different route; its coil has one eye, and the bushing on the lower rod is much narrower.

When buying a metal detector, look at the reviews - for example, many detectors note that MD Mars coils do not fit well with the wide bushings of Nokta Makro detectors. Which is fraught with physical destruction of the reel ears.

Useful tips for creating homemade levels using laser pointers

Despite the convenience, compactness and low price of self-made devices, they have two main disadvantages: relatively low accuracy and a short period of operation with constant use of laser emitters. The first issue is solved by setting up the device. To eliminate the second drawback, experts advise replacing the coin-cell batteries in laser pointers with an external power source. It is important to select a source with the required voltage. Typically it is 4.5 V, but may vary for different models.

When buying a laser pointer for a level device, you should carefully select its power and the color of the emitting diode. The best option is a green beam, it is less harmful to vision and is better visible even in relatively bright rooms.

By slightly increasing your budget, you can purchase a simple laser level with or without a tape measure. In this case, you can attach a ready-made device to any base, rather than a combination of a bubble level and a laser pointer.

Often these devices already have places for mounting on a tripod or tripod.

You can also use a laser tape measure as a source of laser radiation.

One more nuance: if a ready-made tripod (tripod) is used to install the laser, a useful addition to it will be a strip with markings or an ordinary metal (wooden, plastic) ruler. This will allow you to raise or lower your homemade level to a certain height without additional measurements. By the way, it is convenient to make the tripod itself from PVC pipes.

Types and features

The rods can be divided into composite and telescopic. Examples of the latter are the Russian Tesla or the Turkish Nokta Makro Anfibio.

Homemade rods can also be non-separable - this design is a priori lighter and stronger. But it’s inconvenient to carry such a barbell.

We also divide according to the method of laying the coil cable - inside or outside. As an example of an internal gasket, let’s take the Nokta Makro Impact. The pipe profile is also different. If all Tesoro metal detectors have a round pipe, then the same Impact has a triangular cross-section.

There are also differences in shape. S-shaped with a handle on a bend (XP Deus), T-shaped (Garret ATX) with a handle almost at a right angle to the bar and hybrid - with an S-shaped bar and a handle made according to a T-pattern, for example the famous “grater” - x-terra 705. Other variations are possible.

Device setup

To set up a homemade laser level, you can use different methods, but one of the simplest is to use a mirror. The diagram below shows how this technique is used.

After the initial installation of the device, the laser is turned on and at the point where it falls on the wall (any other suitable plane), a small mirror is attached using a piece of plasticine. Using a level, achieve a strictly vertical (perpendicular to the planned position of the beam) position of the mirror plane. After this, the laser is turned on again. If the incident (emanating from the device) and reflected beam coincide, the adjustment is considered to be of high quality. If a match does not occur, change the position of the laser emitter until the desired result is achieved.

To set up a laser device that has a line rather than a point as a target designator, a target-rail is used (it is convenient to use a metal profile for drywall). In the place where the light line is reflected on the vertical surface, press the target (rail) and use a level to check its horizontalness (or verticality, depending on the position of the laser).

There is a quicker way to check if the settings are correct. The diagram shows how, using a bubble level and a stretched cord, the horizontality of the lines connecting the laser emitter and the screws on the wall at the point of impact of the beam is checked.

What can tripods and rods be made from?

There are several options for making the tool: from a telescopic, polypropylene, aluminum tube, or from a metal profile.

Available materials are used as a basis; some parts (for example, the head) can be purchased separately. In any case, making the design yourself will be cheaper than buying it in a store.

What tools and materials will be needed

To manufacture the device you will need the following tools and materials:

pipe with the following parameters: cross-sectional diameter 27 mm, wall thickness 1 mm;
handle for telescopic roller;
glue “Moment” (you can also use a glue gun);
part of the rug;
Screwdriver Set;
self-tapping screws;
stationery knife;
head from an inexpensive tripod;
metal corner 40*100 mm;
plastic clips for Ø 25 and 20 mm – 2 pieces each;
drill;
sealant gun (can be old);
coupling (needed for support from below);
polypropylene tee (32 mm);
screw 4-6 mm, wing;
plastic screws (5/8 thread).

Middle knee

As a mandrel for the second segment of our barbell, we will use the lower elbow we just made.

The required length is 61 cm, wall thickness is 2.5-3 mm.

We prepare approximately 130 ml of epoxy glue, cut a fiberglass cloth measuring 145x61 cm, and wrap it around our mandrel.

In order for the pipes to be separated after hardening, we coat our mandrel with grease and put a couple of turns of cling film on top. In a word, we repeat everything that we did when making the lowest bend of the bar, except that now the mandrel is not a metal profile, but a ready-made lower bend.

In general, we wrap the blank with fiberglass, coat it with epoxy, and lay it on top with even boards, previously covered with tape. Then we tie everything together with either adhesive tape or blue tape. Well, in my case, I again used the same superb mold with lambs:

If anyone is interested, the first attempt to make the second bend of the barbell was a fiasco. Despite the layer of polyethylene and lubricant, the two pipes adhered to each other so firmly that there was no way to separate them. I had to rip open the entire length of the top tube and start over.

The second time I decided to try the rope-solidole method:

According to my idea, after hardening, I will pull the rope turn by turn and remove the inner pipe without any effort. But, as often happens, fate had other plans for this.

When everything froze, I began to slowly wind the thread turn by turn. And after about 5-10 cm, the rope jammed tightly there and it broke. I tried to do the same trick on the other side, but I failed there too. So never use linen rope for these purposes, use nylon rope.

In short, I disconnected the pipes for a long time and tediously, with the help of studs, nuts, all sorts of devices and brute physical force. It took me half a day to do this, but I still achieved my goal. Now I have two pipes that fit freely into each other.

Tip for attaching the coil

I made the fastening of the metal detector coil to the rod from the same fiberglass. First I rolled a sausage, then a stick. Then I connected them together. Now a little more detail and with pictures.

The circle wound around the first thing that came to hand - a screwdriver.

After hardening, I cut it to the required length.

It is important for us that the ends are parallel to each other and at the same time perpendicular to the axis. Therefore, I trimmed it using a simple device with sandpaper.

A parallelepiped made of fiberglass is made even simpler - a sausage is wound, flattened to the required thickness and kept in this form until completely cured.

Then it is cut to the required size.

Then we make a rectangular hole in the round, glue the resulting parts together and get the coolest fastening of the metal detector sensor to the rod.

Round diameter - 26 mm, length - 33 mm. The dimensions of the rectangular part are 10x20x50mm, it should fit tightly inside the lower bend of the bar. Then it seemed to me that the length of the pin was too long, and I shortened it by about a third. The total weight of the entire tip is about 23 grams.

By the way, as practice has shown, fiberglass pipes made from fiberglass are very vulnerable at the ends: if you apply pressure from the inside, they easily burst at the corners. Therefore, I decided to strengthen the very tip by gluing a pre-made rim on it.

Here's what it looks like assembled:

To create a high-tech (read: cool!) appearance, the parts adjacent to each other were sawed down at a bevel.

Subsequently, exactly the same reinforcing belt was made for the second pipe:

The next task will be to manufacture an S-shaped handle with an armrest, as well as eccentric clamps for fixing the knees in a given position and mounting for the electronics unit. Read all about this in the second part of the article.

Bottom bend of the bar

We go to the nearest Leroy Merlin and for 100 rubles we buy an aluminum pipe with a rectangular section of 10*20 mm. We coat it with any consistency (solid oil or something similar), wrap it with cling film and the blank is ready.

Next, you need to figure out what size you need to cut the fiberglass canvas. For the lower bend of the metal detector rod, it is enough to make the walls 2 mm thick. It was experimentally established that the thickness of one sheet of fiberglass is 0.15 mm.

Simple mathematical calculations show that you need to take a sheet 88 cm long. Well, the width of the sheet is equal to the length of our future knee, i.e. 62 cm.

We cut off the required sheet and roll it onto our blank, evenly coating it with epoxy glue.

To find out in advance how much glue you will need, you need to calculate the volume that it will need to fill:

V = (2.2cm * 1.2cm - 2.0cm * 1.0cm) * 62cm = 39.68 ml

If you also have fiberglass, then I sympathize with you; prepare resins for the entire calculated volume. And if you have normal fiberglass, then you can use 30 percent less glue.

By the way, it is better to prepare epoxy with some reserve (10%) - it’s better to squeeze out the excess resin than not have enough of it.

Despite the fact that after making the rod I will paint it black, I also decided to tint the glue a little. So that the material from which the rod is made is painted throughout its entire thickness. To do this, I used the first thing that caught my eye - black enamel PF-115.

In general, I do not recommend painting epoxy resin this way. Firstly, it stinks for a long time, and after hardening, the surface of the product becomes slightly oily. If you later need to glue/glue something, the resin will no longer stick so well. Therefore, it is better to use some kind of pigment dye, for example, the same aniline black (with which rags are dyed in the textile industry).

When you wind the fiberglass cloth (fiberglass) onto the mandrel, you will definitely feel that there is not enough glue. Now, don't believe it, it's an illusion. In fact, when you compress the wound fiberglass fabric to the calculated wall thickness, the resin will fill the entire volume allocated for it and saturate the entire fiberglass fabric completely, displacing the air. Simple arithmetic!

Read also: How to build a stable for horses

A jamb can only happen if you don’t press the walls to the required thickness, then there really may not be enough glue (that’s why I recommended preparing the resin with some reserve). By the way, this happened to me once. I was greedy with glue and in the end it was not able to saturate the entire fiberglass, leaving white bald spots:

The material in these places is easily pressed and crunches like a wafer.

In order for the outer edges of our future pipe to be even and smooth, we need to cover it on top with even planks and press it properly. The boards must first be covered with tape, otherwise they will stick tightly. I think the most suitable material for these purposes is chipboard (shelves and doors from old cabinets that are constantly lying around everywhere).

For myself, I built a monstrous structure from boards and studs with wings.

By the way, in the previous photo you can see that the fiberglass is not impregnated with resin at all. And there seems to be very little glue. But, as I said above, this is not the case. Once we tighten the nuts properly, everything will be fine. Even excess resin will appear.

We wait for the resin to harden and remove the resulting workpiece into the light of day. We remove flash and excess sagging.