Homemade bench vise: video, photo, drawings


How to choose a vice

Most vices are usually similar to each other.
They have the same design, but they differ in specific criteria. For example, the difference can be found in the size of the jaws, the length of the working stroke, the material used, and the like. Most factors require consideration, since they can be used to understand whether one or another vice is worth taking or not. Let's look at them briefly.

As a rule, the body material is steel or cast iron. Each of the materials is good in its own way. Steel is lighter, cast iron is heavier and more stable. Cast iron is impervious to corrosion, but steel is the opposite. In general, material is the first factor to consider.

Case material – the main selection criterion

You should also pay attention to the purpose of the vice. As a rule, people purchase universal vices that work with any material, but there are also more specialized options

The same can be said about the size of the blanks.

Some can only work with small ones, others can work with anyone, no matter what size they are. It is important to know only one thing about the appointment

If the vice is for metal, then it is better not to use it to fix wooden workpieces.

The purpose of the vice is an important point to consider

The weight and size of the vice is another important factor to consider. Understanding how much a vice weighs and how large it is, you can determine where to place it, how to carry it and transport it.

As a rule, many vices have additional options that make work more comfortable and expand the capabilities of the tool. 360 degree rotation, replaceable jaws and much more - all this can make your work more efficient.

Additional features make your overall job easier

Homemade bench vise: video, photo, drawings

It’s not difficult to make reliable and easy-to-use vices with your own hands. The need for this may be caused not only by the desire to save on the purchase of a serial model, but also by the need to use a clamping device that will allow it to more effectively solve the tasks assigned to it.

Simple homemade vice from corners

Serial models of vices, although they are universal, are not always able to provide high precision in fixing parts; they are quite bulky and have a significant weight.

Homemade vices, used primarily in a home workshop, can be made more suitable for performing certain technological operations, and therefore more efficient and convenient.

Homemade bench vices may differ little from factory ones in both appearance and reliability.

Any person who spends a lot of time in his home workshop will confirm that it is quite difficult to do without such a device as a vice. Without a clamping device, it is difficult to perform various operations with parts made of metal, wood and plastic. The use of a vice guarantees not only high accuracy and efficiency of drilling, milling, etc. operations, but also the safety of the machine operator. If there is no desire or opportunity to purchase a serial model of such a device, then it is quite possible to make a vice with your own hands, spending very little time and effort on it.

Cast iron or steel?

MaterialAdvantagesFlaws
SteelFirst of all, steel is considered to be quite light in weight and at the same time quite durable material. Tools made from steel are quite easy to transport, again due to the lightness of the steel itself. In addition, steel is considered more adaptable to difficult conditions. And with a steel vice, small parts can be processed more accurately. Steel is a material that is not very resistant to rust. In addition, this material does not like high humidity. It is also worth noting the high price of steel vices due to the ability to work with small parts, which cast iron vices do not have.
Cast ironFirstly, cast iron has always stood out for its hardness and strength to the limit of the possible. Strong shocks and vibrations - cast iron does not care about all this. In addition, it is easier to process medium and large parts on a cast iron vice. Another advantage of the cast iron alloy is resistance to corrosion, or rather, immunity to it. Huge dimensions and weight typical of cast iron. In addition, static loads have a bad effect on the cast iron itself.

Each of the two materials has its own pros and cons

Vise for metalwork: do it yourself

When doing plumbing and carpentry work, a home-made craftsman cannot do without a powerful vice. Larger, newer vises are expensive. The solution is to either look for a used vice on the secondary market, or roll up your sleeves and, if you have a welding machine and an angle grinder, make an inexpensive vice with your own hands. Let's look at an example of a portal user with the nickname Korkus and tell you:

  • How to make a metal bench vise yourself.
  • What parts are needed to make a homemade vice.
  • What tools will be required?

Types of bench vices

In addition to reliable support, you must clearly understand what types of work you will be doing and relate the choice of bench vise to them. First of all, this concerns the material of the case. In the post-Soviet space, it is often cast iron.

This material is hard, wear-resistant, but quite fragile. Therefore, if you are not going to bend thick steel workpieces with a sledgehammer without seriously preheating them, then feel free to take such a vice, and if you do, then it’s better to look for a steel one.

If you need to regularly fasten cylindrical workpieces in such a table vise, then it is advisable to make a jaw cover with a triangular cutout. And if such operations are quite frequent, then we advise you to consider options for the design of a bench vice that are somewhat different from the standard ones.

In general, if we talk about the functionality of a bench vice, then first of all you should think about the size. If you know for sure that you will not have to work with large parts, then do not pay for extra metal, and perhaps even consider a compact machine vice.

Or vice versa - it is possible to work with large-sized parts, but without much effort when processing them. Then you can consider the option of a vice with the ability to pre-expand the jaws without using a lead screw.

If you do not have a workbench, and the list of works also includes more operations that do not require the application of brute physical force to the parts being processed, then the option with a table vice, secured with various clamps, is yours.

True, the latter are mini-tise, it is better to have them on the farm as additional ones. You can’t clamp large parts in them, and you can’t put any serious effort into the workpiece being processed - there’s not enough pressure on the clamp to hold the vise itself, but making a key for a lock based on a sample is just the thing.

In addition, such vices are sometimes indispensable if you need to unscrew a stuck nut, when you can use them as a hand tool. Despite their miniature size, their jaw pressure is very good.

It is also worth mentioning a small vice on a ball joint, which serves for the convenience of processing very small parts of complex configurations, allowing you to process various surfaces of the part with one fastening.

It is clear that the clamping force of the ball joint is not enough for serious physical loads, so such a vice is suitable for quite specific types of work. The same, in our opinion not very serious, will be vices with fastening using a suction cup.

To secure them more or less securely, you need either a well-polished surface or glass. It is unlikely that they will be securely attached to other surfaces. And their functionality is also limited.

For all types of bench vices, you will obviously need additional pads to secure parts made from soft materials.

Some table vices have a pneumatic drive, which greatly facilitates the process of securing the workpiece.

But if you don’t have a mini plumbing workshop at home, then you are unlikely to need such a vice.

What else is important to know when choosing a bench vise? There are quite a lot of complaints from users about Chinese vices with cast iron bodies, equipped with clamps for fastening - they often break off, so if you want a cheap vice from the Middle Kingdom, it is better to choose one made of steel. Choose a vice that has the least amount of play between the body parts when the jaws are set as far apart as possible.

Also, if you do not need a rotating mechanism at the base of the vice for work, choose a model without it: you will save money and the structure is more rigid

Choose a vice that has the least amount of play between the body parts when the jaws are set as far apart as possible. Also, if you do not need a rotating mechanism at the base of the vice for work, choose a model without it: you will save money and the structure is more rigid.

Do-it-yourself vice for a mechanic: step-by-step instructions

On the Internet you can find many options for homemade vices made by yourself. I also decided to make a bench vise from the metal I had, so as not to buy factory ones. And this is what came of it.

To make a homemade vice you need the following parts:

  • The base of the vice is a metal plate 4 mm thick;
  • The guide prism is a profile pipe with a cross-section of 5x5 cm, wall thickness 4 mm;
  • The base of the sponges is a corner with a shelf 7.5 cm, wall thickness 8 mm;
  • The lead screw is a pin with a diameter of 20 mm;
  • Also required was a metal strip 5 cm wide and 1 cm thick, a reinforced nut for the stud and an angle with a shelf 60 mm and a wall thickness of 5 mm.

The work on manufacturing bench vices was divided into a number of stages:

1. The base for the Korkus vice was welded from two metal plates measuring 20x16 cm.

Then the welding areas were cleaned.

2. In the center of the base, the user drew a line to mark the space for the lead screw - the pin. The nut for the lead screw is welded to a spacer 10 mm thick.

3. The vice guide is made of a square profile pipe, in which a longitudinal groove is made with a grinder slightly wider than the welded stand with a nut.

4. To attach the guide, a 60th corner (2 pieces) 20 cm long was used.

The corners wrap around the profile pipe, and a lid made of a strip 1 cm thick and 5 cm wide is welded on top of them. The result is a box.

In order for the profile pipe to move freely in the box and create a gap, spacers were used - 2 blades from a metal saw.

Because the gap between the plate and the corners turned out to be quite large, then, after welding the plate on top, I cut off the tacks and welded the same plate from the inside.

5. The base of the bench vice jaws is made of a durable angle with a 75 mm flange and an 8 mm wall.

The vise jaws are made of 1 cm thick strip.

Through holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are drilled in the corners and jaws.

Then the user cut M5 threads in the corners, drilled holes in the jaws with a 5.1 mm drill and countersunk the holes for countersunk.

Bolts are screwed into the jaws, and nuts are screwed on the back side, which are then scalded.

Drawing of jaws for a bench vice.

6. Two corners are welded at the end of the profile pipe.

The jaws are reinforced with triangular stiffeners and welded with a metal plate 4 mm thick.

Precautions for use

Despite their miniature size, if handled carelessly, hand vices can cause injury to your hands. Therefore, before you start using the tool, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the safety regulations.

  1. Thus, most hand-held samples are not designed for clamping hot parts. This is due to the fact that hot metal changes the physical parameters of the jaws, which can cause the fixation to weaken and the workpiece to fly out of the vice. This must also be taken into account if it is necessary to work with hot workpieces - purchase models made of an alloy with special additives that increase the heat resistance of the material.
  2. In addition, it is necessary to coordinate your movements and try to avoid pinching the skin of your hands when installing miniature parts into the working gap. For placing particularly small items (for example, in jewelry making), it is recommended to use tweezers.
  3. When fixing workpieces made of soft and brittle materials, do not pinch the jaws, as this can lead to breakage of the part and the formation of splinters.
  4. The vice should not be used as an adjustable wrench on live electrical equipment. This requirement is due to the absence of an insulating braid on the handle of most models, which when working with metal parts of electrical installations can lead to electric shock. For such purposes, you should use special pliers with a dielectric handle.

Which ones to choose for the garage?

If you have a garage or workshop, there is a need to purchase a bench vice. For small garage plumbing work (for example, assembling auto parts), the best option would be the classic parallel rotary vise.

When choosing a tool, you should pay attention to the following parameters

Sponge size. It is determined by the dimensions of the parts that are supposed to be processed. For work in a garage, the size of the jaws should be from 100 to 150 mm, since these are the parameters that are most optimal for performing auto repairs.

Material of manufacture. The best option is cast iron models with steel jaws.

Installation method. To install the tool in a permanent room (garage), you should prefer a vice with a stationary attachment to the workbench. If a vice is needed for rare use when the need arises, then it is better to choose a model with a screw clamping mechanism.

Versatility of the model. If it is necessary to work with products made of materials of varying degrees of hardness or different shapes (flat or round), a vice with replaceable jaws is required.

Dimensions of the vice. If you plan to change the installation location of the tool, then you should choose lighter, more compact options.

Product quality

When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the appearance of the model. The tool must be free of visible defects, burrs, sharp edges, distortions, and have a finished shape with straight lines

With a curved configuration, the transition of lines should be smooth. Threaded areas should be coated with lubricant, moving parts should move smoothly, without jamming.

The cost is determined by the features of operation: for professional intensive work it is better to purchase a more expensive model, and for home use, budget options are also suitable.

Types of vices by purpose

Vices are classified according to the nature of the intended actions with workpieces and can be carpentry, metalworking, machine tools, engraving or pipe. There are also tabletop small vices and scrubbers. Let's look at all the categories in order.

Bench vice

This is one of the largest groups of clamping devices. The tool is used in factories and workshops for fixing and processing parts. The vice is fastened to a powerful table or workbench using the provided eyes and bolts.

The lower part of the body is rotatable and allows you to rotate the vice to the left or right on the table for more convenient placement of workpieces. By pressing the discs with a wrench, the position is securely fixed. Because of this feature, the model can additionally be called a rotary model.

Bench vice.

The workpiece itself is clamped using a screw mechanism. It uses a high threaded shaft. Its coils are rectangular or trapezoidal, rather than triangular, which makes them more durable and allows the part to be tightened with force.

The workpiece is installed between two plates called jaws. They are made of steel that has been lightly hardened to give it a strength of 45 HRC. When working with soft materials, the jaws can be replaced with others without damaging the part.

Typically, a bench vise has an additional cast platform. It acts as an anvil - it is easy to level a bent pin, nail or plate with hammer blows, as well as flatten the edge of a rod or tube. The large die-cast design effectively absorbs impacts so the workbench is not damaged.

Let's consider all types of bench vices in terms of configuration, clamping mechanism and functionality. This will help you choose the best option for your workshop, enterprise or garage.

Vice with two movable jaws

A type of bench vice, where the jaws are able to rotate on the shaft on which they are located. Rotation of the working part is possible along the horizontal axis up to 180º in both directions. This expands the possibilities for installing the workpiece and allows you to perform work more conveniently. For example, to make a longitudinal cut at the end of a profile pipe, it can be installed vertically.

There are models with both jaws movable, where the clamping part is double, i.e. available on both sides. From below it is usually of a figured type for fixing round objects. This allows you to grip the round pipe even more securely and not flatten it during tightening.

Like all regular bench vices, they can be rotated on their base. Since both classic models and those with two movable jaws can be called rotating, when purchasing online, you should clarify which method of turning you are talking about.

Bench vice with two movable jaws.

Hand bench vise

Sometimes the size of the workpiece is so small that when installed in a conventional bench vise, it almost does not protrude outward. In this case, use a hand vice. Mini versions come in one of two designs.

Screw ones have two jaws, which are brought together by a transverse screw and a pressure “wing”. There is an option where, instead of a thumb, a handle is used that rotates along its longitudinal axis, which leads to tightening. This type of tool is also called a “jeweler’s” vice. Having clamped the part, it is processed with a file, a small grinder or a drill attachment.

The vice is also used as a universal wrench, grasping the heads of bolts and nuts when a real wrench of the appropriate size is not available. They are also convenient for fixing the tap when cutting threads. The metric tapered thread in such models should not scare off the buyer, since the effort when tightening manual equipment is small.

When choosing a hand vice, pay attention to:

  • parallelism of the jaws;
  • no play in the tightening handle;
  • clamping density without gap.

Hand held mini vise.

The second type of hand vice resembles pliers, which fix the workpiece by snapping a lever mechanism. They have a tension spring with an adjustable distance between the jaws. The part is grabbed and pulled together with a clear fixation of the specified thickness. Typically, the parameter is set slightly less than the thickness of the workpiece to ensure sufficient clamping. To move the sides apart, use an additional lever in the handle, which weakens the grip.

Weiss flu.

Bench bench bench vise

The design consists of two jaws, but they are brought together not in a straight line, but in an arc. For this purpose, both working sides are additionally connected from below by a hinge. The closer the sides are to each other, the higher the convergence point. The vice uses thin, narrow jaws. This form factor allows you to clamp specific parts that do not fit in a regular vice. The maximum spreading distance depends on the size of the model and can be 125, 150, 250 mm.

The device itself can be secured to the edge of a table or chair using two bolts. This is convenient for use not only in the workshop, but also in the field. For example, they can be brought to the garden, installed on any stump and repaired a damaged part of a combine or tractor. This eliminates the need to transport a huge part from the equipment to the workshop. The main area of ​​use of chair bench vices is now blacksmithing.

Bench bench bench vice.

Parallel vice

This is a “classic” type of bench vise marked TSM. They got their name because of the parallel arrangement and movement of the sponges. Typically, in a design, one side is stationary, and the other moves closer and further away from it by rotating the screw. A handle is provided for this action. The base of the vice can be rotary or non-rotary. Installation is carried out on a table, but the device can be used loosely on the floor.


Bench vice TSM.

Globe type vise

The modification has the same movable and fixed jaws, but the body is able to change the angle of inclination. The action occurs using semicircular guides, which is where the instrument got its name. You can fix the specified position using a clamping bolt. Rotating the base to the left or right further expands the possibilities for placing the workpiece in a more convenient position. These versions are called dual-axis.

There are three-axis vices where you can tilt the part back and forth, tilt it left and right, and rotate it left and right in a given position. In this case, the design includes additional semicircular guides located one above the other. The device is installed on a workbench or machine using two eyes and bolts.


Globe type vice.

Angle vise

The tool has a fixed base with two thrust edges. Plates, profile pipes, and metal corners are attached to them. The moving part presses the two sides of the workpiece so that they are brought together at a strictly 90º angle. Due to the open shape of the structure, there is free access to the joint, which facilitates the installation of tack welding. The vice simplifies the quick assembly of frame parts where the connection is made at right angles.

Angle vise.

Holdfast

This type is used exclusively for fixing workpieces made of plastic or wood. In another way, such devices are also called carpenter's vices. The clamping force here is small so as not to leave marks in soft materials, so they are not suitable for fixing iron.

The carpenter's vise design has a lag screw and several smooth metal guides to keep the sides parallel. The device is fixed on the workbench. The jaws here are made of wood, and the steel sealing parts are located much lower than the wooden ones. This is provided to protect the processing tool. When colliding with wooden jaws, the cutting blades do not deteriorate, and the peripheral part of the vice is easy to replace with a new one.

Holdfast.


Carpenter's vice on a workbench.

But besides the usual carpenter's vice, there is another variety.

Vise-stand

This version is structurally different from classic joinery and acts as a free-standing element placed on the floor. The vice has the shape of a construction “goat” and is used in pairs. The workpiece is placed on top of them and work can be done without a workbench or table. The design has a stop and a movable lip with a large stroke (50-100 cm). Rubber pads provide a gentle effect when in contact with wood.

The clamping is carried out by a lever mechanism, so long rotation of the screw is not required. The drive is often foot driven and frees the master’s hands to hold a large workpiece.

In such a vice it is convenient:

  • plan the edge sides of interior doors;
  • cut window openings in door panels;
  • install locks;
  • saw timber

Vise stand.

Pipe vise

The round cross-section of the pipes complicates crimping in a vice with even jaws, since the fixation area is very small, and the product can easily slip out when pressed. To securely fasten round pipes, a separate category of vice has been developed. It is convenient to clamp even a short piece of 5-10 cm in them in order to saw off a ring from it or make longitudinal cuts, cut an edge at an angle, etc.

A pipe vise has a vertical frame with an upper movable lip that is moved by rotating a screw. The lower counter part is motionless. The model is secured to the table using bolts. The shape of the jaws with a deep cut inside provides grip and increases the clamping area of ​​the round pipe.

If the part is thick-walled and strong pressure is required, there are jaws with a relief surface. For thin-walled workpieces or soft materials (copper, polypropylene, aluminum), recesses in the jaws with a smooth surface are provided. In addition to this feature, when purchasing, pay attention to the maximum size of the inserted pipe so that it meets the needs of the user.


Pipe vise.

Chain pipe vise

A type of pipe vice that allows you to fix pipes of any diameter. The design of the fixture has a lower semicircular or V-shaped support on which the workpiece is placed. The part is wrapped around a steel chain (like a motorcycle, but larger and stronger) and tightened with an eccentric drive. Due to the chain, the contact area increases even more, which protects the workpiece from dents and ensures reliable retention.

Since the crimping part is flexible, the maximum diameter of the installed pipe depends only on the length of the chain. The device is also practical in the case of gripping not very round parts that are simply physically impossible to install in a conventional vice. Chain vices are also useful for crimping fittings and tees, where protruding elements interfere with the alignment of standard jaws.

Chain pipe vise.

Machine vice

Machine versions of the vice are used as add-ons for main equipment. Common characteristics of the device are steel jaws and a frame, as well as the presence of two long slots in the base. With their help, the vice is attached to the machine and its precise positioning under the spindle or other equipment.

Professional models provide for changing jaws to accurately select the working part to match the shape and material of the workpiece. Here is a classification of machine vices by purpose.

Cross machine vice

The design, in addition to a fixed stop and a movable jaw, has two pairs of guides and screws to move the clamped part back and forth and left and right horizontally. Often there is a scale next to the actuator handles to see the exact values ​​of this displacement.

Thanks to such a vice, a regular drilling machine can be turned into a milling machine, performing lateral processing of workpieces with a gradual offset. This is beneficial for novice craftsmen and starting a business in the garage.


Cross machine vice.

Drilling

The drill press bed has many slots, under which the space is widened for special T-shaped studs. They are used to attach a vice that holds the part during the drilling process. You can move the model to the sides, towards you and away from you, but this is only allowed when adjusting the position. Then the vice is fixed with nuts and then only the working jaw remains movable.

Drilling vice.

Milling

Structurally, they can be installed on milling machines. Since the milling machine bed is movable, the vice is designed to move towards and away from the operator, as well as to change the angle of inclination.

Milling vice.

Patterns

Used on pattern grinding machines. Made from stainless steel to resist corrosion. They have increased accuracy and a scale with metric divisions for the desired positioning of the workpiece.

Pattern vice.

Sinus

They have an additional hinge and guides at the base, allowing you to lift the working part at an angle. This expands the possibilities of processing workpieces at different angles.

Sinus vise.

Prismatic

They have semicircular working edges for fixing pipes and other workpieces with uneven walls in machines. The V-shaped or curved shape of the jaws prevents the part from turning during processing.

Prismatic vice.

Precision

Equipped with a metric scale and have high positioning accuracy. There is no play in the design, and the jaws are strictly parallel to each other. Used for precision machining.

Precision vice.

Engraving vice

They have two significant differences. Firstly, their base is a cast ball that rotates in any direction, being in the seat of the frame. The position is fixed by a lever and becomes motionless. This is convenient for tilting or rotating the workpiece.

Secondly, both jaws are movable and move together at the same time. This ensures that the part is always located in the center, which is convenient for applying point blows and monitoring the symmetry of the cut of the workpiece. Engraving vices are used in artistic processing of metal elements or in weaponry. They are convenient for cutting with a graver or hammer cutters.

Engraving vice.

Shrabkugeli

The base of the vice is a large ball on a wooden stand. Instead of the latter, there may be a leather pillow with pressed sawdust. The ball provides rotation and tilting of the workpiece in any direction. Sponges are usually small and suitable for small parts (coins, tags, jewelry). Often the upper side of the jaws is equipped with holes for installing pins and fixing hollow and cast objects of non-standard shape.

Shrabkugels are held on the table by their mass, which ranges from 5 to 15 kg. This is enough to absorb shock from jewelry cutters and hammers.

Shrabkueli.

What are they made of?

Regardless of the type, model and shape of the bench vice, they all have a standard design in accordance with the requirements of GOST 4045-75, which regulates the necessary design parameters and range of parts. All models are arranged according to a specific scheme and consist of the following structural parts:

  • fixed stable body-base;
  • 2 sponge plates - movable and fixed (the fixed sponge may have an anvil);
  • a clamping travel mechanism consisting of a screw and a nut;
  • rotary handle that rotates the screw clamp;
  • spring and bushing;
  • mechanism for fixing to the desktop.

The vise kit also includes spare parts such as removable corrugated linings for the jaws, which provide more reliable fixation of workpieces. Some expensive models of vices can be equipped with a pneumatic drive, and they are most often used in factory conditions.

The vice is fixed to the workbench tabletop using bolts or a special screw is used to secure the structure like a clamp. The communication between the 2 jaws occurs through a screw clamp, which moves when the rotary handle is rotated.

Device and characteristics

A standard vice consists of the following main elements:

  • The base is actually the body of a vice with a base plate designed to fix the tool on a table, machine or workbench, sometimes equipped with an anvil. The fastening is most often bolted, vacuum (suction cup type) or magnetic.
  • Sponges. As a rule, there are two of them: fixed and movable. The first is part of the base, and the part is clamped by moving the second jaw towards the first along the guides. Each sponge has flat, removable pads called cheeks. The inner surface can be completely smooth, which prevents damage to the soft part when clamping it, grooved with deep milling, which provides better adhesion and, therefore, fixation of workpieces, or with fine notches for the same purposes. In the second case, each individual cell of the corrugated pattern has the shape of a sharp or cut pyramid, or vertical or horizontal grooves are cut along the entire length on the cheek.
  • The clamping screw with a rotary handle is the actual mechanism responsible for the movement of the jaw. The lead screw passes through the entire structure of the tool, and the handle is necessary to rotate it without the use of a wrench or other tool.

The design of different types of vices may differ significantly from that described above.

For example, instead of mechanical pressure with a screw, hydraulics can be used.

Also, some tools have double jaws, that is, two pairs located one above the other.

In this case, the upper jaws are the main ones and, as a rule, have a classic design.

The lower ones are additional, for solving specific problems.

A good example is V-shaped cast or prefabricated designs designed to hold workpieces with a round cross-section.

Another interesting addition, which is most often found on small benchtop vices, is the jaw locking button, with which the process of unclamping or fixing workpieces is greatly accelerated.

Material

Depending on the material used to make the vice, there are:

  • Metal - most often these are cast iron tools; steel, aluminum, and duralumin options are also often found.
  • Wooden ones are part of a carpentry workbench, sometimes an independent structure. Designed for fixing wooden workpieces. All elements, except for the clamping mechanism (rarely that too) are made of soft, but at the same time durable wood species, such as pine.

Cheeks are often made of soft materials such as non-ferrous metals, wood and even hard rubber.

Considering that they can be purchased separately, the mechanical characteristics are selected individually for the material of the clamped part.

Hard hardened (up to approximately 45 HRC) steel jaws are also produced.

Dimensions and weight

Considering the huge number of types of vices, we can safely talk about a truly wide range of their sizes.

Classic locksmith tools, which are rightfully considered the most popular, as they are suitable for solving most problems, have the following sizes:

  • • Small: length – 290 mm, height – 140 mm, jaw height – 50 mm, jaw stroke – 80 mm, weight – 8 kg.
  • • Medium: length – 372 mm, height – 180 mm, jaw height – 70 mm, jaw stroke – 125 mm, weight – 14 kg.
  • • Large: length – 458 mm, height – 220 mm, jaw height – 90 mm, weight – 27 kg, and the jaws extend by 160 mm.

There are models whose dimensions are much larger than those indicated above.

For example, the length of the classic T-250 vice is 668 mm, and the weight is 60 kg.

Their high jaws protrude 125 mm and are 250 mm wide.

Approximate dimensions of chair vise:

  • Length, width and height: 370 – 400 mm, 180 – 200 mm, 180 – 200 mm.
  • Working stroke of the movable jaw: 120 – 160 mm.
  • Height of jaws: 65 – 75 mm.
  • Weight: 13 – 19 kg.

On average, hand vices have a length of 22 – 90 mm, a width of 6 – 45 mm, and a height of 100 – 150 mm.

How to choose a quality vice

The design of the vice has remained unchanged for decades. The main components of the clamping device are two jaws, a base plate, and a lead screw. One of the jaws is fixedly fixed to the base, and the second is moved using a special mechanism with a handle. Most often, vices are made of cast iron, steel, or a combination of both. It is rare to see wooden devices in carpentry workshops. Each material has its own pros and cons. All vices can be grouped according to their intended purpose. Locksmith models must reliably hold solid metal while maintaining integrity. Joinery tools are gentler on wood pieces without damaging the soft fibers. A vice is made especially for machines, which is fixed on the bed. With their help, the part is precisely fed into the processing zone. It is more convenient to work with pipes if you hold the workpiece in a pipe vice. They have special jaws that adhere to the surface of the part on several sides. Vices differ significantly in overall dimensions and weight. If the device is installed motionless on a workbench, then the weight is not of decisive importance; it is more important to pay attention to the method of fixation. And when constantly moving, light and compact models will be more convenient. Although users are confident that the heavier the vice, the stronger and more reliable it is. For ease of use, there are many additional functions. The bench vice is equipped with a rotating mechanism (180 or 360 degrees). Folding legs and clamp pads are mounted on carpentry models. Machine tools have moving parts, thanks to which it is possible to bring (retract) the part into the processing zone by rotating the handles

The quick-release screw speeds up the fixation of the part, which is especially important in a production environment.

Our review included 11 of the best vices. When compiling the rating, the opinion of the expert community and reviews of domestic consumers were taken into account.

DIY chair vise

Hello, dear readers and DIYers!
This site has already reviewed many vices of various designs, but one more variety has been missed - chair vices. This is one of the oldest structures, and they got their name from the fact that they were attached to a base in the form of a chair.

In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Master Class 61” will tell you how you can make such a vice yourself.

This is a fairly simple project that can be repeated in a small workshop.

Materials needed for homemade products. — Pine board 100X20 mm, timber, thick sheet plywood — Door hinges — M10 steel stud, oversized washers, nuts — M10 furniture driving nuts — Countersunk wood screws — Sandpaper, linseed oil, wood glue.

Then the pair of blanks is glued together and fixed with self-tapping screws. Before screwing in the screws, you need to prepare pilot holes using a countersink wood drill bit.

The second blank is left untouched.

The contours of the handle are marked on 25 mm thick plywood sheets, and the workpiece is cut out using an electric jigsaw. After this, the workpiece is polished.

The same hole is drilled in the center of the handle and a drive nut is installed.

The jaws are glued and screwed to the top of both parts. The author made them from pine timber. If necessary, pieces of light leather can be glued onto the working surface of the sponges.

Before final assembly, you need to saturate the wooden surfaces with linseed oil; it perfectly protects the wood from moisture and reveals its structure.

The finished product is fixed on the side of the workbench. That is why the second blank was made twice as thin. The workbench itself will provide rigidity.

The author also prepared a hole in the workbench itself - it is needed for the clamping screw.

I thank the author for implementing a simple design of a chair vice for the workshop.

Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!

Care instructions

In order for the tool to last as long as possible, you need to take care of it:

  1. Keep parts, especially those with threads, clean. To do this, wipe the vice with a soft cloth to remove dust.
  2. Periodically lubricate with special oil. It is applied to the screw part and to the threads of the plates, and to all moving parts of the vice. After this, they need to be closed and opened again.
  3. Remove rust stains. When it forms, machine oil is applied to the stains and left for several hours. Then the rust is cleaned with a metal sponge, washed off and wiped dry with a soft cloth.
  • Types of vices and their applications
  • How to make a workbench for your garage yourself
  • How to make a workbench correctly
  • How to make a wooden workbench with your own hands

DIY chair vise

Hello, dear readers and DIYers!

This site has already reviewed many vices of various designs, but one more variety has been missed - chair vices. This is one of the oldest structures, and they got their name from the fact that they were attached to a base in the form of a chair.

In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Master Class 61” will tell you how you can make such a vice yourself.

This is a fairly simple project that can be repeated in a small workshop.

Materials needed for homemade products. — Pine board 100X20 mm, timber, thick sheet plywood — Door hinges — M10 steel stud, oversized washers, nuts — M10 furniture driving nuts — Countersunk wood screws — Sandpaper, linseed oil, wood glue.

Tools used by the author. — Hand-held circular saw, screwdriver — Self-centering drills — Wood drills with countersinks — Electric jigsaw — Miter saw, surface planer — Calipers, chisels, hammer — Open-end wrenches — Combination angled ruler, tape measure, pencil.

Manufacturing process. The main material for the vice will be untreated pine board 100X20 mm. First of all, the master levels its surfaces using a surface planer and cuts it into three pieces 400 mm long.

Then the pair of blanks is glued together and fixed with self-tapping screws. Before screwing in the screws, you need to prepare pilot holes using a countersink wood drill bit.

The second blank is left untouched.

A spacer block, the width of which is equal to the width of two jaws, is glued and screwed to the bottom of the second workpiece.

Both parts of the vice will be tightened together with an M10 screw, which will be screwed into the furniture nuts. To make mounting holes for them, the author measures the outer diameter and selects a suitable drill. In this case - 12 mm in diameter.

Having folded the blanks together, a through hole is drilled in them.

Then, from the outside, the furniture nuts are clogged.

The contours of the handle are marked on 25 mm thick plywood sheets, and the workpiece is cut out using an electric jigsaw. After this, the workpiece is polished.

The same hole is drilled in the center of the handle and a drive nut is installed.

The author cut the lead screw from an M10 steel pin. Its end is twisted into the handle and locked on the other side.

The jaws are glued and screwed to the top of both parts. The author made them from pine timber. If necessary, pieces of light leather can be glued onto the working surface of the sponges.

Before final assembly, you need to saturate the wooden surfaces with linseed oil; it perfectly protects the wood from moisture and reveals its structure.

Then both parts of the vice are connected to each other with two furniture hinges. It is better to make pilot holes for self-tapping screws using a self-centering drill.

Everything is ready, all that remains is to screw the lead screw into place.

The finished product is fixed on the side of the workbench. That is why the second blank was made twice as thin. The workbench itself will provide rigidity.

The author also prepared a hole in the workbench itself - it is needed for the clamping screw.

This is the simple but practical design the master came up with. Having made both parts of the vice the same thickness, they can be secured to the base.

I thank the author for implementing a simple design of a chair vice for the workshop.

Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!

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