Set of milling drills 3/4/5/6/6.5/8 mm. for wood and metal

Changed and forgot | 08.12.2019

When performing complex work on machining parts, it is often necessary to combine several transitions, for example, milling with drilling. Some manufacturers of household power tools (for example, DeWalt, Sandvik, etc.) solve this problem by simply adding a number of bits to the standard tool set. However, it is possible to carry out processing using a combined method - a drill-cutter tool, saving time and without compromising the quality of the final result.

What are they?

Milling drill bits for metal have quite a large number of varieties.
Experts distinguish end, cylindrical, disk, shaped, angular and end tools. Let's talk about each of them in more detail. When working with metal, when a drill is supposed to be used, an end-type drill with a vertical axis of rotation is most in demand. It is excellent for use on flat surfaces, as it can remove a layer of material of the required size.

Using a disc drill-cutter, you can form all kinds of grooves and grooves on the metal surface. This becomes possible due to the fact that the teeth are located not only on the side, but also on the end part of the product.

A cylindrical drill is used to work on flat areas of metal elements. The teeth are located on the sides and can be either straight or helical. They have a horizontal axis of rotation.

An end mill is most often used when working with a drill. With its help you can make quite deep grooves or contour recesses. It is also possible to process mutually perpendicular planes. There are main teeth in the side of the tool, while other cutting elements are located at the end.

When working with shaped surfaces, you should opt for a similar drill. They are produced by drawing and are not very long. The main difference is the fact that such a cutter is used for structures that have a significant length-to-width ratio.

As for angle cutters, their design can be called the most complex. They are most often used when working with corner grooves, as well as inclined planes.

As for the design, we can note single-angle and two-angle products. In the first case, the teeth are located not only on the side of the cone, but also on the end. In a double-angle cutter, the cutting elements are located on both conical surfaces, which are adjacent.

Functionality

Initially, cutters were used in dentistry and were intended for dental treatment. Only the forms in demand for nail treatment came into the nail industry.

Of the huge number of cutters on the market, each can be used at one or another stage of a manicure or pedicure. But a number of attachments are distinguished by increased functionality and can be used at several stages. Some of them can complete the entire manicure procedure in the hands of a skilled manicurist. Let's look at the most functional cutters for removing coatings and working with skin and nail plates.

Coating cutters

Any attachments with teeth that have indentations between them will do. For gel polish, fine teeth are no more than 1 mm, and for acrylic and gel, deep teeth. This is necessary in order not to saw through areas with an increased risk of sawing, for example, the cuticle, lateral sinuses. Fine teeth leave behind a smooth surface. It is worth focusing not on the speed of material removal, which is provided by deep teeth, but on the safety of removal.

If we take cutters with large threads larger than 1 mm, then even with high-quality material removal, grooves will remain. Next, they will need to be additionally polished with buffs and files, which will require additional time from the master.

The teeth have a direction - clockwise or counterclockwise. There are also reversible teeth, “looking” in both directions at the same time. They are suitable for left-handers and right-handers.

The cone-shaped nozzle is the best for removing material from nails. It provides the largest contact area and the highest processing efficiency.

Based on the material of manufacture, it is worth considering the following cutters for removal:

• Carbide cutters are similar to metal cutters, but they wear out quickly. They are enough for 40-50 material removals. The cost of each varies from 100 to 600 rubles from top manufacturers.
• Steel cutters are more durable and wear-resistant. They differ from carbide ones only in the shade of the metal. Their cost starts from 500-600 rubles.
• Ceramic cutters are the most durable and durable. They last for 2-3 years.

There are metal cutters with spraying. This can be plating with galvanic gold or titanium. A distinctive feature of these attachments is the ability to monitor wear. When the coating wears off, it’s time to change the cutter.

Titanium-coated cutters for material removal have a blue iridescent surface. This coating is stronger than electroplating gold. The nozzles are highly wear resistant.

Cutters for working with skin and nail plates

The first category is diamond cutters. They are suitable for manicures, cleaning sinuses, side rollers and cuticle areas.

Different abrasives are designed for different functions.

Diamond cutter categories:

• galvanic;
• sintered monolithic.

Galvanic cutters feature a galvanic base, a metal onto which an adhesive layer is applied and an abrasive is sprayed. This results in a grainy surface. Depending on how these coatings are sunk into the adhesive base, the nozzle will either process well, or quickly become clogged and worn out during operation.

It is best when the spraying is half recessed into the adhesive base. Diamond galvanic cutters last from 5 to 40 manicures, depending on whether they are used to process the coating or just the skin. Economical in cost - from 50 to 650 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and the quality of spraying. They are enough for 1-4 weeks of work with a dense flow of clients.

The marking of galvanic attachments starts from the white notch.

1. White notch is rare and practically useless in the daily work of a craftsman. The nozzle is more suitable for polishing.
2. Yellow diamond cutter - for working out, polishing the skin, removing remnants of pterygium in sensitive skin.
3. Red abrasive is a universal tool for all stages of manicure. The most common use is internal cleaning of pterygium in the lateral sinuses and from the surface of the nail plate.
4. Blue abrasive - only for external areas of the skin - cutting the cuticle and processing the side rollers. Not on sensitive thin skin.
5. Green abrasive - coarse - is rarely used in manicure. More often - in pedicure for treating calluses and rough skin of the side ridges.
6. The black diamond cutter is the roughest and most aggressive. Not for manicure. Can only be used to remove small areas of gel polish in hard-to-reach areas.

The second category is monolithic or sintered diamond cutters. Serve from 2 to 10 years. Expensive, the price can reach 8,000 rubles.

1. Sintered is an attachment in which particles of real diamond are applied to a workpiece and baked in a furnace, turning into a solid tool. It lasts much longer than conventional spraying - up to 3 years.
2. Monolithic - differs in that diamond particles are placed on a very thin pecking base, in several rows, and then baked. In this option, there is less choice of shapes, since the technology does not allow making a thin, sharp tip. It's always more rounded.

What type of cutters process metal parts?

Depending on the nozzle, the material can be processed:

• metal;
• concrete;
• plastic;
• wood.

The harder the object, the stiffer the cutting element should be. In production they are divided according to their purpose:

Sharoshki

1.The surface is cleaned with cutters, the paint layer and lining are removed; such a kit can be seen among the engraver’s tools or on the dentist’s drill.

Countersinks

2. Countersinks do rough work, cut grooves, widen holes.

The cutter can be of different shapes. Previously, their appearance resembled a berry on a thin sprout with a wide working area. With the development of technology, the scope of work has expanded, and the need for different designs has arisen.

When updated modifications appeared, their varieties were divided by type and purpose.

End

The end blades have vertical cutting blades on the base that remove metal shavings and grind flat areas.

Disc cutter

The disk cutter is designed with rotation along a horizontal axis and cutters mounted on a cylinder, they cut grooves or slots.

Cylindrical blades

Cylindrical blades are used to remove excess metal in different working positions along a straight or helical cutting edge.

Cone cutter

A cone cutter is convenient for cutting grooves, passages, and contours of varying depths on perpendicular planes.

Actions can occur with the main cutting edge, which is located on the side of the cutter, or with the auxiliary end part. On these sides there are teeth. This conical element was named after the shape of a geometric figure. The cutter is similar to a cone, the wide part of which smoothly passes into a narrowed end.

Former

To obtain different profiles, a shaped cutter with an oblong shape is used.

Blades with drill

There are blades that are combined with a drill. They are used to drill small hollow spaces and form walls with a small thickness.

Core drill

A core drill is used to cut through large through sections.

Former

Angle cutter

An angular cutter, the most complex in design, works with inclined surfaces and cuts out an angular groove.

A professional milling machine operator, like a craftsman in a home workshop, always has a full range of cutting tools to perform tasks of varying complexity.

When choosing a cutter, first install:

1. Purpose, base diameter. A hand drill will not work with an automatic drill attachment.
2. Cutting edge design. If the teeth are fixed by soldering, you need to check the quality of the seam so that the edge does not fly off during the working process.
3. Level of sharpening of cutting parts.
4. Shank grip type.
5. Brand of nozzle material.

To choose a good cutter, you need to focus on well-known foreign and Russian manufacturers. Our quality is not so bad, but the price is significantly lower compared to a similar foreign product.

Twist drills

The ubiquitous twist drill was probably the first cutting tool that each of us once began to use, well, for example, in a hand-held electric drill. While end mills are only available to machinists, twist drills are found in the home of almost every DIYer.

But everything is not as simple as it seems at first glance. Statistics show that holes make up the vast majority of all operations performed on CNC machines. In addition, the material removal rate of twist drills is very high and is usually superior to that of end mills. Sometimes it may make sense to drill a lot of holes and then machine the grid between the holes using an end mill.

Like end mills, twist drills come in a variety of sizes, finishes, materials and lengths.

Twist Drill Dimensions

Twist drills come in a greater variety of diameters and sizes than end mills. However, this is not surprising given the prevalence of hole making operations and the difficulty of using a single drill for holes of different diameters, whereas end mills are much more flexible in this regard.

In addition to metric and imperial sizes, there are also special sizes such as numbers and letters.

High Speed ​​Steel, Cobalt and Tungsten Carbide + Coated or Uncoated

If you need the strength and toughness of tungsten carbide to quickly process tough materials, there is no alternative. Otherwise, just buy a full set of HSS or cobalt drill bits.

Coverage or lack thereof is a matter of taste. Coatings can be useful, although not as much as in end mills, perhaps because most twist drills are not made of tungsten carbide.

Screw cutting machine and short series length

The length of the twist drill can vary. Most non-professionals use short series twist drills. Here's how they differ:

The long series screw drill has the same diameter, but is much shorter than the short series drill. It is also more durable.

Because they are shorter, they are also much stronger. The hole produced by such a drill will be more accurate, and you will be less likely to break the drill. Most machinists prefer to use twist drills for screw tapping machines precisely because of these advantages.

Peculiarities

Combination cutting tools are becoming increasingly popular. The drill-cutter belongs specifically to this group of products; it simplifies and reduces the number of operations when processing materials. Each of them has 2 elements: drilling and milling. The first part is necessary to create a hole of the required depth and diameter. The cutter is located on the side edge; if necessary, it can be used without changing the tool - by changing the pitch of the spiral along the length, it is possible to obtain the desired result in 1 pass.

The distinctive characteristics of such a tool include high wear resistance and long service life. They are made from hard steel that is not subject to intense wear. In addition, such a tool can be resharpened. If the corner part of the drill becomes dull, its sharpness can always be restored.

Among the technological capabilities of such products, one can highlight the performance of a whole range of operations. In addition to conventional drilling, this can include V-grooving, chamfering and milling.

These drills are versatile. They are suitable for use with a wide range of materials:

• plastic;
• MDF;
• chipboard;
• plywood;
• drywall;
• solid natural wood;
• metal.

The design of the milling drill includes a shank for securing an electric or manual tool in a chuck. There are also 2 work surfaces at once, which can be used sequentially or individually. Such combined models are most in demand in the field of woodworking. Depending on the type and diameter of the landing part, cutter drills can be universal, for machine tools and hand tools, or specialized.

To increase the strength of steel tools, increase their service life, and reduce friction when performing work, their surface is often coated with special compounds. The most common items are golden in color. They are coated with titanium nitride. Drill-cutters are sold not only individually, but also in sets - it is advisable to purchase such a set if drilling is done frequently or is put on stream.

Set of milling drills 3/4/5/6/6.5/8 mm. for wood and metal

• Price: $3.65

• Go to the store

In today's review we will talk about another set of drills (or, to be more precise, drill bits) from China, which I bought on eBay.
Unfortunately, the store where I made the order no longer has this product, so the link above leads to another one, the first one I came across. So, my seller turned out to be adequate and prompt. For a small surcharge, the parcel was sent with a full track, so if anyone is interested, you can find out detailed information about its route along the China-Belarus route here.

The product was sent in a small paper envelope, inside of which were the drills I ordered. There is no original packaging; all the drills are placed in a small plastic bag, which was “sealed” using a regular office stapler. The set includes 6 drills of different diameters: 3, 4, 5, 6, 6.5 and 8 millimeters. Outwardly they look quite nice. The cutting part is covered with a yellow coating, which, according to the seller, is nothing more than titanium nitride and is designed to extend the service life of the tool. Unfortunately, it’s not so easy to check whether this is true or not at home, so you’ll have to take the seller’s word for it. But these are not my first drills with such a coating, and I want to say that hydrochloric acid does not damage it, it does not wear off during operation, so the statement that the drills are “titanium” seems to be true.

The drill bits have cylindrical shanks, so they will fit 99% of chuck types. On the shank of each drill there is a marking indicating the diameter of the drill and the material from which it is made. Here it is HSS steel.

HSS (High Speed ​​Steel) is a general definition of a group of high-speed steels. HSS steel is used to manufacture a large number of different cutting tools. Typically, these are drills, cutters, taps and dies, less often - knives and saw blades. HSS steels are high carbon and some contain a large proportion of tungsten. Typically, HSS steel tools have a hardness of 62-64 HRC. The main advantage over carbide tools is the durability and lower cost of the tools. Therefore, HSS performs well in interrupted cutting. A limitation of the use of HSS is the low cutting speeds compared to carbide.

As you can see in the photo, the drills have an unusual appearance. They combine two types of cutting tools - a regular drill and a milling cutter. If everything is clear with the tip of the drill (it is needed to make a hole), then the main part is a cutter used to mill the resulting hole.

The recommended rotation speed of this tool is 1000 - 2000 rpm, and it is used for milling contours of any shape in thin-walled materials (wood, plastic, etc.) and sheet metals (up to 2 mm). It can also be used as an ordinary drill for making holes.

In principle, there is nothing more interesting in the appearance of the drills, which means we can move on to their practical tests. To begin with, I decided to try them out as the most common drills and see how they cope with making ordinary holes. As expected, there were no problems: The holes are smooth and neat. Wood and plastic can be drilled effortlessly. The inner surface of the hole is flat, smooth, and without burrs. If you move the drill back and forth several times, the milling part will remove all unnecessary material.

After making a couple of holes, as well as milling them, the appearance of the drills did not change at all. The only thing is that the whole drill was covered with sawdust.

The next stage is to check the functionality of the drills on metal. A duralumin corner was taken, the wall thickness was 2 mm. To begin with, I simply drilled a hole in it.

This was done using a cordless screwdriver. I wouldn’t say that everything went as quickly as in the case of the tree, but there were no special problems here either. Metal can be drilled without any problems. Next is milling the hole.

In principle, with the help of these drills, a round hole can be turned into anything you want (or need). Starting from oval and ending with an asterisk or some other figure. A couple of seconds and a beautiful, even hole turns into this:

Moreover, there were no problems with milling a hole even in a duralumin corner, and it was not even clamped in a vice, that is, it had to be held with one hand and the tool held with the other. That's why the heart turned out crooked