Do-it-yourself electric scooter - a master class with step-by-step instructions for doing it yourself. Tips and simple patterns for beginners + the best photo reviews


General design of an electric scooter

To understand how to assemble a scooter yourself, you need to understand its design. The structure consists of the following parts:

  • Frame;
  • Wheels;
  • Electric motor;
  • Controller;
  • Accumulator battery;
  • Brakes;
  • Controls.

What is a hoverboard?

How to make a hoverboard with your own hands? In order to understand how to make a homemade hoverboard, you first need to understand what a hoverboard is, what it consists of, and what is needed to create this interesting means of transportation. A hoverboard is a self-balanced vehicle, the operating principle of which is based on a system of gyroscopic sensors and internal technology for maintaining the balance of the working platform. That is, when we turn on the hoverboard, the balancing system also turns on. When a person stands on a hoverboard, the position of the platform begins to change; this information is read by gyroscopic sensors.

These sensors read any change in position relative to the earth's surface or the point from which gravitational influence comes. After reading, the information is sent to auxiliary boards, which are located on both sides of the platform. Since the sensors and the electric motors themselves operate independently of each other, in the future we will need two electric motors. From the auxiliary boards, the information in processed form already goes to the motherboard with a microprocessor. There, the balance retention program is already carried out with the necessary accuracy.

Gyroscopic sensors

That is, if the platform tilts forward by about a few degrees, then the motors are given a signal to move in the opposite direction and the platform is leveled. The tilt in the other direction is also performed. If the hoverboard tilts to a greater degree, then the program immediately understands that there is a command to move the electric motors forward or backward. If the hoverboard tilts more than 45 degrees, the motors and the hoverboard itself turn off.

The hoverboard consists of a body, a steel or metal base, on which all the electronics will be attached. Then there are two electric motors with enough power to be able to drive under a person’s weight of up to 80-90 kg. Next comes the motherboard with a processor and two auxiliary boards, on which there are gyroscopic sensors. And of course, a battery and two wheels with the same diameter. How to make a hoverboard? To solve this issue, we will need to obtain certain design details of the hoverboard itself.

Engines with wheels

Frame (base)

The easiest option is to take a frame from a factory scooter. The disadvantage of this option may be the additional load on the frame. After all, the weight of additional equipment will be added to the person’s weight. The undoubted advantage of this is its relative simplicity.

The second option is manufacturing, as they say, from scratch. The advantage of this method is that the device will take into account all individual wishes and characteristics.

For making your own frame, a square pipe with a wall thickness of 2-2.5 mm is suitable. True, here you will need additional skills for designing and calculating the base, skills in working with materials and tools.

We are installing the controller and accelerator handle

In principle, everything is clear with the gas handle, but the controller needs to be removed from the aluminum case and sealed with tape. For the device under discussion, the owner purchased an Infineon 6 FET controller, but for its successful implementation, it was necessary to file down the textolite so that it could adequately fit in its rightful place.

There is also a budget class controller Bafang 500W. It is made in a small case that has three speeds and the possibility of recovery, and it consumes 14 A from the electronic storage device. However, its main advantage is that the product fits into our deck, albeit without a case - there is no need to finish it.

A hole is made in the side of the deck, and there are holes in the controller’s radiator through which it is possible to fix the device using this very hole.

The niche with the wires and the controller must be covered with a lid. To make the lid, sheet plastic will do; in our example, it was made from a laptop, and specifically from the lid of its matrix.

As for the throttle, in our time there are no problems with this - we purchase the most suitable modification and calmly move the equipment to its rightful place.

Wheels

Wheels are divided by size into micro, mini, midi and maxi. The first have a size of less than 20 cm, the second - 20 cm, the third - from 25 to 30 cm, the fourth - more than 30 cm.

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The choice of wheels to be installed on the scooter depends on its operating conditions. If you drive on smooth roads, then micro-sized wheels are suitable. An electric scooter with them will be light and compact.

If the roads are of average quality, with small cracks and unevenness or are paved with tiles, then the mini option is better. If you plan to move on poor asphalt or dirt roads, then it is necessary to install midi or even maxi size wheels. Inflatable wheels are also suitable.

We introduce an electric battery and automatic

The battery was wrapped with tape to provide better protection from moisture. It also makes sense to attach it to the deck using double-sided tape or Moment glue. Between the deck and the electric battery you need to install a gasket made of some dense material - it will be better! Our professor settled on a plastic folder for papers!

The automatic switch is the switch for the electric scooter, so without it there’s no way! In our case, it was glued to the electronic drive, but you personally can adapt this device anywhere.

Engine

A wheel motor can be used as a motor. It can be purchased separately or taken from a broken hoverboard. A motor from a cordless electric drill can also be used as a propulsion device. Some craftsmen use a screwdriver or a car radiator cooling engine as an engine.

Engine power is selected depending on the conditions in which you intend to drive. For children, it is better to take low-power engines. For driving at speeds up to 30 km/h, a motor with a power of up to 300 Watts is suitable.

For fast driving, you can use motors with a power of 350-400 watts. Such an engine will allow you to reach speeds of up to 40-50 km/h. It is important to consider safety issues here.

Alternative uses for a hoverboard

Ecology of consumption. Motor: Who said that a hoverboard is fun for young people and, as a result, an absolutely useless thing for household use? The self-balancing vehicle managed to push Segways into the background due to its compactness and affordability, offering customers an identical concept, but for less money and without the bulky design.

Who said that a hoverboard is fun for young people and, as a result, an absolutely useless thing for household use? The self-balancing vehicle managed to push Segways into the background due to its compactness and affordability, offering customers an identical concept, but for less money and without the bulky design. Thus, hoverboards equipped with electric motors, which do not require the use of muscle power, unlike skateboards and scooters, managed to become one of the most desired gifts in the past year.

Those who doubt the practical value of a hoverboard and the advisability of purchasing it should take a closer look at the experience of the most creative owners of this vehicle. For example, in order to realize the unusually high household usefulness of a hoverboard in the winter, it is enough to stock up on:

  • shovel;
  • patience, since the skills of extreme control on a slippery surface are not acquired immediately;
  • high snowdrifts blocking passage or passage near the house.

Next, it’s a small matter: use the YouTube video that made the resourceful guy from the town of Sun Prairie, Wisconsin famous as a visual aid for transforming the hoverboard and its owner into a manned snowplow:

If riding a hoverboard in the snow, which requires skill, seems like a dangerous activity to you, then for those who like to move comfortably, an environmentally friendly vehicle called HoverSeat was invented. This hybrid is based on the same hoverboard, but with minor technical improvements. We are talking about transforming an unstable two-wheeled vehicle into an absolutely reliable four-wheeled vehicle by attaching a frame with two additional wheels. The driver’s seat—a country or kitchen chair—is placed on the auxiliary structure. As an option, a not too heavy office chair.

Do you get tired while walking with a stroller, because the road from home to the nearest park is exhausting and takes away your last strength? Advanced parents are joining the fashion trend, whose representatives are content with all the benefits of a new hobby called Hoverstrolling. To do this, it is enough to set the stroller in motion using the electric traction of the hoverboard and you will automatically be among the fans of this hobby.

Filmmakers for short filming in conditions where it is impossible to place a filming dolly and mount rails under it were among the first to use hoverboards. For this profession, the presence of self-balancing two-wheeled vehicles on site has become a common occurrence, with the help of which thousands of hours of video were shot. published

PS And remember, just by changing your consumption, we are changing the world together! econet

Accumulator battery

The distance the scooter travels depends on the battery. There are several types of batteries: lead-acid, lithium polymer, lithium ion, lithium iron phosphate. The former are known for their use in motorcycles and cars. They are heavy and have a small number of charge-discharge cycles compared to other types.

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Polymer and ionic are the most suitable in terms of weight, technical characteristics and price. For lithium-polymer batteries, the number of discharges and charges is up to 800, for lithium-ion batteries – up to 1000 cycles. Both types are lightweight and dependent on ambient temperature. In cold weather the discharge occurs faster. In addition, there is a danger of fire or explosion when overcharging.

The lithium iron phosphate battery is not afraid of mechanical damage, is resistant to low temperatures, is not afraid of overcharging and has up to 2000 charge-discharge cycles. But it is heavier and more expensive than polymer and ion batteries.

You can buy a ready-made battery pack, or you can assemble it yourself, for example, based on 18650 batteries. Which one to use depends on personal preferences and available resources.

Battery installation is done in different ways. Can be installed below in a platform called a deck. This option is preferable as it does not raise the center of gravity. But in this case, additional protection against impacts and mechanical damage is required.

Another location for installing the battery is the steering column. There, either a hanging container is made, or installation is carried out in a rack if it is made of several pipes.

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No matter how the battery is mounted, it must be protected from moisture. Waterproofing of a self-made electric scooter is carried out using electrical tape, sealants, and the manufacture of moisture-proof covers.

Manufacturing methods

There are many different diagrams and instructions for making any model of electric scooter in the public domain. In some cases, a homemade electric scooter can consist of 80% of a regular one. You can also take spare parts from an old bicycle. Such models are the easiest to assemble and do not require complex welding work.

You can have a comfortable vehicle even without an electric generator if you have a simple electric motor from a drill. The battery capacity of the screwdriver is quite enough for a 1.5-hour trip. A more complex modernization involves the creation of a finished frame structure from metal corners and steel sheets welded together using hot welding. Typically, the steering system and wheel drive come from old bicycles or scooters.

To make the ride easier, improve cross-country ability and basic characteristics, you can install large-diameter wheels, but they require an additional set of shock absorbers.

From a set from aliexpress

Let's start with the installation kit. The kit is delivered by a transport company to your door.

Everything came in a heavy cardboard box. However, the protection of the contents could have been better: only the wheel motor had a foam insert, the rest of the set was wrapped in foil filled with air.

The main thing in the set is the drive, the motor-wheel. Remember, I took the not most powerful 500-watt version for my 36V 17Ah battery. Versions with a 48 V electric motor are more popular, they are more powerful, in this size even up to 1 kW. Rubber city “slick” size 10×2.5″ (25 cm), rubber tubes included.

The frame was also provided by the transport company. The packaging here is quite extensive. It's good that there were four large foam inserts inside for protection during transportation.

The frame comes with a small tool kit and a cover connector.

The frame (wheelbase 88 cm) weighs 10 kg, the main part - the deck - is made of steel, the rest is made of aluminum alloy. The deck is made of 2.5 mm aluminum and measures 50x19 cm, secured with 8 screws. The red stripes are pasted on with “sandpaper” to prevent the shoes from slipping.

Good wings made of hard plastic are installed immediately, but the handlebars (grips) will have to be purchased separately. Under the pillar there is a steering wheel with a seat.

The frame is equipped with lighting. On the rear fender there is a red brake light powered by a battery. Front combination headlight with turn signal, runs on 12v, dim light. I didn't install it, I use bicycle lights, I have a lot of them.

There was also divine RGB lighting on the sides, in the form of two strips, I immediately removed them.

The frame suspension looks better than it works. At the front there are trivial single springs without shock absorbers. The rear steel swingarm is ridiculously mounted below the deck plane, which eats up a good 8 cm of ground clearance! Overall though the shocks are adjustable and work fine or something like that.

But the steering wheel is comfortable. The unfolded width is 60 cm. The height adjustment is 30 cm.

It is worth mentioning separately about Chinese welding. Sure, the frame is on a budget, but honestly, our welding school students will do it better. The seams are sloppy, and in some places you can't see the splashes from the welds.

The deck walls and rods were welded, we had to use improvised means and a pneumatic wedge to insert the battery type across the width (a pair of 18650 batteries + extra space for contacts and walls = 140mm) and the deck turned out to be 138-139mm wide. Full deck dimensions (DxWxG): 475x139x70 mm.

The frame folds quite simply, with two levers: the main one and the locking one. Pull the stop, the pin comes out of the groove, and the main lever folds the frame in the opposite direction. The folding mechanism can be adjusted for no play by tightening the eccentric nut on the main arm.

Special thanks for the installed footrest - it is comfortable.

The frame left an ambivalent impression.

Assembly should not have taken much time and required special tools. And so it happened. Most of the working time was spent installing and adjusting the mechanical brakes. Yes, I had to calibrate all the threads with a spatula, but it didn't tire me out.

In the photo below you can see where the power button and charging port are located, as well as the cables extending into the front of the deck.

The trigger screen is color and quite clear. There are headlight controls and cruise control. There is documentation with error codes and settings.

Displays:

  • Battery voltage
  • Mileage
  • Total kilometers
  • Selected equipment (1-3)
  • Error codes
  • Current speed
  • Time

Available settings:

  • Speed ​​Limit
  • Current passing through the regulator
  • Minimum discharge voltage
  • Selectable battery voltage 24/36/48 V
  • etc.
  • Screen backlight brightness
  • Wheel diameter
  • Sleeping mode
  • Cruise control

The inside deck is spacious enough to accommodate a large (20+ Ah) battery.

Conversion from a regular scooter and bicycle

Technically, the easiest way to create an electric scooter with your own hands is to convert a foot-type device or an old bicycle. To make the product yourself, you need:

  1. Choose a frame from a regular manual scooter. It is important to consider the width of the wheelbase and the size of the battery compartment you intend to use. A frame from any classic model is suitable here.
  2. The suspension and steering can be taken from an old mountain bike. A spring force of 250-300 kg/cm is more than enough for a comfortable ride. Bicycle or disc brakes can also be used as brake pads. There is no need to invent anything new here. Simply repair your old or new wheel brakes.
  3. To repair pre-selected wheels, make a homemade axle using threaded rods and nuts of the required size. Electric scooter manufacturers rarely bother to standardize components, so your choices here may be limited.
  4. To ensure smooth operation even when climbing hills, prepare a small gearbox. This will reduce the output speed, increasing the engine's pulling power.
  5. Install the chain tensioner. This is necessary to ensure smooth transmission of torque from the transmission to the wheel through the chain. At the same time, on any bump without a tensioner, the last component can simply fly off.
  6. Install the steering wheel. This is where old bikes, such as mountain bikes, come in handy again (you can remove some parts from them).
  7. Connect the electronic “stuff”, do the final installation. It is better to place the electric motor controller with a set of fuses closer to the steering wheel so that there is more space for installing the battery. Its diagrams can be found on the Internet, but it is better to buy a new element. The electric scooter can be equipped with a CIM type motor. Ready-made Li-On blocks of standard capacity can be used as batteries. For a basic assembly with a power of 600 W, 6 pieces are enough.
  8. Install the battery pack. It can be installed from thick-walled plywood on the steering rack, which frees up space below. It is also possible to install the box from below. The main goal here is to remove the batteries as quickly as possible if necessary.

You can also assemble another electric scooter model based on a ready-made electric wheel ordered in China. In fact, this is already a full-fledged electric motor that does not require connecting a gearbox and chain drive. It can be installed on a standard bicycle or scooter wheel.

The frame of the product can be assembled on the basis of a children's bicycle, but with a modified lower part. The base is welded from metal pipes, so there is a smooth bend from the steering wheel to the rear drive wheel. It is worth leaving a recess for installing the battery. The handlebar is an old bicycle handlebar. The rear and front forks can be made from the same angles. They are welded to the “donor” frame, and holes are made in them for installing wheels.

The disc brakes of the new electric scooter can be removed from the mountain bike. It is recommended to cover the box with a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood. The battery pack can be composed of the same type of Li-On batteries of the 18650 type. A capacity of 25 Ah with an operating current of 48 V will be quite sufficient.

Controller

The controller is, one might say, the brain of the engine. How the scooter will ride and its acceleration at the start depends on it. Selected according to engine parameters. If the motor consumes 36 V, then the controller must be 36 V.

The power is selected taking into account the reserve for the starting load and forced movement. As a rule, a reserve of 2-2.5 times the current is taken. That is, if the motor has a power of 300 Watts, then its rated current is 8.3 A (300W/36V). This means the controller must withstand up to 21A.

Making a lid

The element was made from an aluminum profile using metal shears. But to remove the excess internal ribs of the lid, we will need pliers: we kind of clamp the edge of the rib and begin to rotate the tool - the rib being processed should easily be screwed onto the pliers. It will be just great if you glue the inside of the product with film, and in our case, a paper folder was used.

Control

The scooter controls consist of a power switch, gas and brake handles. It is better to make gas in the form of a hook, because it is safer. In case of an unforeseen situation, such a handle is instinctively released.

The brake handle must be equipped with a switch that will turn off the engine when pressed.

Now let's look at a few instructions on how to make an electric scooter using different engines.

We replace the rear fork with a wider one and install a motorized wheel there

During the assembly process, you may run into some misunderstandings, which can be resolved with a drill, file and spacers purchased from the appropriate store.

With a hoverboard wheel

It's enough to make a scooter using a broken hoverboard. Such a device will look quite aesthetically pleasing. In addition, it will have good technical characteristics.

The manufacturing scheme for an electric scooter from a hoverboard is as follows:

  • Take one motor-wheel from a hoverboard;
  • If we use a frame from a finished scooter, then make a fork to attach the rear wheel under the wheel from a hoverboard. If we make the frame ourselves, then we immediately take into account the fastening;
  • Install the motor controller;
  • Install the battery;
  • Install the throttle handle and the power button.

After installing all the parts and elements, we check the functionality and use it for your pleasure.

Let's remember our skills

Finally, after much painful thought, you came to the conclusion that purchasing an expensive item is not for you! What is the further course of events in this case? First, check your skills: you must be able to use a soldering iron well and operate a screwdriver, that is, make neat holes in metal using this device.

So, if you love to design and don’t see any obstacles to realizing your ideas, follow the tips below and you will succeed without any doubt.

Using a screwdriver

One of the simple options is to make an electric scooter with your own hands from a screwdriver. In this way, it is unlikely that you will be able to make a powerful and high-speed scooter. But this is undoubtedly the most accessible and cheapest option. For this you will need:

  • Screwdriver;
  • Regular scooter;
  • Bicycle chain;
  • Bicycle sprocket;
  • Wires.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. A bicycle sprocket is rigidly attached to the rear drive wheel.
  2. A small drive sprocket is made of metal, which is clamped into a screwdriver.
  3. A screwdriver holder is made from square pipes or corners.
  4. The holder is attached to the frame using bolts or rivets. The holder must be attached in such a way that it is possible to adjust the chain tension.
  5. The bicycle chain is measured and cut to size.
  6. A control button is attached to the handle.

This option is good because you don’t need to place the entire device next to an outlet to charge.

The battery is simply removed from the screwdriver and placed in a standard charger. There is also no risk of fire or explosion of the battery from overcharging.

Assembling an electric scooter with your own hands should develop according to the following scenario:

1. The place of the rear fork should be replaced by an expanded part and an MK should also be introduced there.

2. The next step is to assemble the body, and for this we will use an aluminum profile.

3. Next, we organize fastenings for the cover on which we will stand while driving.

4. Making a lid.

5. We adapt the controller and accelerator handle.

6. We install an electric storage device and an automatic machine.

7. We connect all the components.

Next, a detailed description and images will be presented, which will enable the “inventor” to understand the entire process at an accelerated pace. The owner of the described device has been using his creation for three years and during this period, he was tormented by frame play and for this reason, Kulibin decided to make the scooter non-folding, reinforcing the structure with thicker bolts in those places where the play made itself felt.

In addition, several housings and electric batteries were changed on the homemade product in three years, so it was necessary to adjust everything to the holes already made before. My advice to you: first bend the side ribs, figure out what will happen where and only then start drilling the necessary holes - this way you are more likely to get everything straight!

Recommendations

Making an electric scooter with your own hands is not a very complicated process, it is creative and interesting. On the Internet you can watch a video on how and what you can use to realize your idea.

As a result, it is possible to make a device of an unusual design with outstanding technical characteristics. There may be mistakes and failures along the way. It is worth noting that a homemade version may not always be cheaper than a factory one.

It all depends on what materials and parts to use. However, repairing a do-it-yourself electric scooter will definitely be easier, because you will know all the parts and components.

And you yourself are responsible for their reliability. After all, if you repair a scooter purchased in a store yourself, this may void the factory warranty.

When making an electric scooter, it is important to consider such points as frame strength and engine power. Its rated voltage and current. Select the correct controller and battery based on engine parameters.

It is necessary to protect the battery pack from damage. It is also worth taking care of the moisture protection of all electrical elements and connections to avoid short circuits. You should refrain from using an electric scooter in rainy weather.

What do you want from your vehicle?

First of all, we decide what exactly we need? A bulky device equipped with inflatable wheels, offering its owner a high level of power, with the ability to cover considerable distances, while wrapping asphalt around the wheels? Or a lightweight folding design that can be carried with one hand without much strain and used for commuting to work, and for other places, such as a fitness club, bypassing stuffy and sometimes infrequent public transport?

Here is an example with a folding design. To bring our plans to life, we will need a folding scooter with a rear shock absorber. The product will need to change the rear fork to a wider one and, in addition, adapt the MK there. Naturally, you will need to purchase a controller, as well as a battery, integrate all this wealth into our homemade self-propelled gun and, of course, connect it correctly.

We choose a scooter for our transformations. You won’t have to tinker for a long time, since the choice is extremely scarce. Previously, the ubiquitous Chinese developed a scooter frame equipped with a two-suspension system and on its basis, manufacturers began to assemble various modifications of scooters and it is this “cart” that we will need.

The more expensive the structure, the better its quality, in theory. A folding frame with a suspension mechanism cannot please the user with reliability in principle, but we don’t really have a choice.

An electrified scooter will “delight” its owner with the same misunderstandings as an ordinary unit, so you need to prepare for these troubles in advance. An electric scooter's moving components will also become loose, creak, and make noise.

The more moving parts your device has, the more carefully you need to monitor them. This rule applies equally to both purchased folding scooters and those created by hand. Why then do we give preference to a gadget with a suspension? And then, first of all, the rear fork and wheel need to be replaced.

DIY photo of electric scooters

Step-by-step instructions - how to convert an electric scooter from a hoverboard?

After making sure that you have everything you need, you can begin the process of making an electric scooter. To do this, it is advisable to adhere to the algorithm below.

First you need to disassemble the hoverboard, from which you will need a wheel motor. Its power can be about 350 W, and the diameter should be 20 cm. The author of the invention had the same scooter wheels.

Then you need to make the rear fork. First of all, you need to fix the wheel on the scooter using a training bracket; you can make a template from wood or thick cardboard. The layout will become a visual aid, and it will be easier to make suitable fasteners.

The best material for its manufacture is a square pipe. It needs to be cut, welded, sanded and holes drilled in it. After this, it is easy to install the bracket using bolts and nuts.

To operate a brushless motor, you need to think about the voltage supply. The controller copes with this task perfectly. It should be suitable for a motor with a power of 350 W.

The electronic gas handle is fixed in the same way as the LCD screen. Then you need to lay the wires along the frame and secure them with plastic ties. You must select a location on the frame for the charger socket. After this, drill holes and install the connector secured with a nut.

Initially, the speed controller is located in a protective housing. However, it can also be mounted on the rear fork. Then you need to connect all the necessary wires and attach the controller with self-tapping screws. You can use bolts instead.

Now we need to start installing lithium batteries. To create the required voltage, they are connected in series or parallel. It is also worth installing overcharge protection. It will be the BMS controller. Without this element, the battery cannot be charged. This threatens its damage, and sometimes explosion or fire.

A zero charge level is also harmful for power supplies. They start to fail. This is where you need a suitable controller. The easiest way to connect cells is by spot welding. Finally, the battery pack must be attached to the frame.

It is necessary to check the serviceability of the system, connect the battery and speed controller to the engine. Use the throttle to activate the wheel, which should rotate in a given direction. The running motor reacts to the angle of rotation of the handle and regulates the number of revolutions. If everything is functioning correctly, the scooter is almost ready.

The power source must be protected from mechanical damage and moisture. To do this, you need to install a lid over them. First, cut out a template from cardboard. After making it, you can make a lid. A sheet of aluminum with a thickness of 2 mm is suitable. The protection is attached with self-tapping screws. To improve the appearance of the scooter, it is advisable to paint the cover matte black.

To complete the look, you need to install caps on the rear bracket. Then dirt will not get inside the structure. Fastening is carried out with hot glue.

At the end, you should test the finished electric scooter in motion. With a driver's body weight of 90 kg, the device can accelerate to 22 km/h. This is a good result. The range with a full charge is 15-18 km.

Converting a regular scooter into an electric scooter

A homemade electric scooter is a good alternative to an expensive device that can be bought in specialized stores. To save money and not reduce quality, you must correctly perform all the required actions. Among them:

  1. Dismantling a broken electric drill with the engine running.
  2. They do the same with a non-working angle grinder, leaving only the bevel gear and the axle with the rotor.
  3. After this, take the overrunning clutch and install it in the place where the grinder gear disc is fixed.
  4. The part is then connected to the removed engine.
  5. At the next stage of work, the wheel bearing of a regular scooter is welded to the axle from the angle grinder.
  6. The bearing is securely fixed to prevent it from rotating during operation.
  7. The engine gearbox axis is connected to the overrunning clutch.
  8. A lithium battery is securely attached to the scooter frame.
  9. The engine speed control button is connected to the control handle.
  10. There are 4 wires running from the regulator, the first pair of which goes to the battery, and the second to the electric motor.
  11. All contact points are covered with insulation.
  12. The frame of a homemade electric scooter is painted and left for several hours for the applied composition to dry.
  13. Turn on the engine and check the functionality of the vehicle.

Battery.

The main characteristics of the battery, which are indicated in the catalogs, are its rated voltage and capacity; the larger these parameters, the better. Both of these parameters affect the most important parameter of the battery - energy (power) reserve. This parameter will determine how far you can travel without recharging.

Energy (power) reserve is measured in watt hours (Wh or Wh). For a powerful motor, the energy reserve value must be at least 450 Wh. For average – 250-300 Wh. For the weak – 180-200 Wh. These are the average values ​​of factory modifications. No one forbids powering a medium-power engine from a capacious battery with an energy reserve of 500 or even 600 Wh, as a result the travel range will increase to 50-70 km. That's the beauty of DIY.

The battery voltage is selected depending on the engine voltage, it can be 24V, 36V, 48V or 60V. The most popular batteries are 36V; they are usually equipped with modifications with medium-power engines; weaker models are usually equipped with 24-volt batteries, and powerful ones with 48 or 60 volts.

Capacity is measured in ampere hours (Ah or Ah). Usually it varies between 7-10 Ah; the more powerful the engine, the greater the capacity.

For a powerful electric scooter (500 W), a battery capacity of at least 10 Ah is desirable, at a voltage of 48 V. The energy reserve in this case will be equal to 10x48 = 480 Wh.

For a 350 W motor, a capacity of 9 Ah is good, at a voltage of 36 V. The energy reserve in this case will be equal to 9x36 = 324 Wh. At higher voltages, the capacity may be smaller, the main thing is that the value in watt hours obtained from the product is not less than 300 Wh.

For weaker models (about 250 W), batteries with a capacity of about 8 Ah, at a voltage of 24 V, are suitable. The energy reserve in this case will be equal to 8x24=192 Wh. If you want to increase battery life, install a medium or even large capacity battery.

The type of battery and manufacturer are also important. They are of the following types:

  • Lithium polymer (LiPo) - light weight, high charge and discharge currents, can withstand 500-800 charge cycles, fire hazard in case of overcharging.
  • Lithium-ion (LiIon) - light weight, 500-1000 charge cycles, dependence on ambient temperature, fire hazard in case of overcharging.
  • Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePo4) - high charge and discharge currents, 1500-2000 cycles, 20% heavier and more expensive than ions and polymers. Not fire hazardous, resistant to mechanical deformation. Do not lose capacity at sub-zero temperatures.
  • Lead-acid - much heavier weight, low charge-discharge currents, only 300-400 charge cycles.

It would seem that the best option is lithium iron phosphate, the worst is lead acid. But, due to lower weight and cost, lithium polymer or lithium-ion is more suitable for many. Not everyone will want to constantly carry an extra 20% of weight due to the longer service life. Overheating of LiPo and LiIon, and sometimes an explosion (and, as a result, a fire) can only occur in the event of overcharging, which is only possible if the protective electronic circuit inside the battery and charger breaks down. These are very rare cases. In general, the pros and cons are known; it’s up to you to choose a more suitable option.

We will build a scooter like this

Measure, saw off, drill holes and arrange: a) Saw off pieces of wood in accordance with the indicated dimensions. b) Carefully measure and mark the centers of the holes to be drilled. c) Then we drilled holes

Please note that they are of two different diameters. Holes for axial bolts and bolts that are attached to the connecting neck, 1.3 cm in diameter

All other holes have a diameter of 0.6 cm. d) Lay out all the parts on the floor. Assemble the scooter handle: Bolt two corner brackets to the top of the handlebar. Then bolt the handle into place. Assemble the front wheels of the scooter: Assemble the front wheels using a 1.3 cm thick bolt as the wheel axle. Place a washer on each side of each wheel. After checking that the assembled axle is not too tight to allow the wheels to spin freely, tighten the two nuts opposite each other to create a “lock nut.” This will help ensure that the assembled axle does not vibrate during constant movement. Place the two O-ring bolts into the corresponding holes in the steering column. Assemble the platform frame: Attach two longitudinal bars to the connecting neck. Place the remaining two O-ring bolts into the corresponding holes in the connecting neck. Attach the Deck: Attach the deck to the two longitudinal beams with six carriage bolts. Attach the steering: Align the rings of the bolts in the connecting neck with the rings of the steering column bolts. Place a carriage bolt through the ring bolt holes to act as a kingpin—the pivot pin for the swivel joint. Check that the swivel joint can turn freely, and then tighten the two nuts on the carriage bolt to create a “lock nut.” This will ensure that the rod does not fall out and does not vibrate with constant movement. Install the connecting neck: Attach the corner bracket to the connecting neck and deck with screws. This is done to strengthen the structure. Assemble the rear wheels of the scooter: Assemble the rear wheels in the same way as the front wheels in step 3. Make sure there is a washer on each side of the wheel and that the wheels rotate freely before tightening the “lock nut” on the end of the bolt. Add Brake: Screw the T-Loop to the back of the deck.

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