Types of slipways
All types of slipways have an identical principle of operation. To eliminate body deformation, it is fixed to one or more areas that need straightening and straightening. Next, the master, using an exhaust device, applies force and straightens the damaged parts of the body.
Simple stocks intended for body repairs are equipped with one exhaust device. Complex devices have several exhaust mechanisms.
There are 4 types of devices: floor, rolling, frame and platform.
Rolling tackles
The rolling berth is used for body repairs of various types of cars. It is equipped with devices that allow you to secure the car without flanging the sills. Rolling stocks are convenient to use in confined spaces. Thanks to this, the device is used in garage conditions.
Rolling equipment cannot be used if distortions occur and the body geometry changes.
Floor-standing
A do-it-yourself floor stand for body repair is a compact and effective equipment for restoring a car body in a garage or workshop. If there is no need to use an exhaust mechanism, then the rails are used for other purposes.
Frame
The frame slipway belongs to the professional variety of exhaust mechanisms. The main difference from other types is that frame devices have a complex design.
The extraction mechanism allows you to repair different car models. The machine is fixed on a frame, which is highly durable. With the help of force directed in different directions, body deformations of mild and moderate severity are pulled out.
To save space in a workshop or garage, as well as to facilitate the process of restoring the car body, purchase stands for body repair, equipped with a lift.
Platform
The platform slipway for body repair is a full-fledged professional equipment. Devices of this type are used to repair damage to the body of any car, including frame SUVs.
The design of the pulling mechanism consists of special rails and an entry bridge-base. The car drives into it on its own, or it is pulled there if the car is not moving. The platform is equipped with various devices and fastening mechanisms that securely secure the vehicle to the slipway.
Platform devices have hydraulic metal stands, a winch, power and retractable blocks. The beams of the device allow you to effortlessly move heavy structures in any direction. The platform straightening stand has a telescopic scale, with the help of which precise calculations and measurements are carried out.
The disadvantages of the platform exhaust mechanism include large dimensions and high cost of the equipment. It is used in large car maintenance services.
Clamps from AIST
Universal clamp from Stork
Now, for comparison, let’s look at clamps from the manufacturer Aist:
- Retractable hook 5-ton, price 1.8 thousand rubles. Has a working width of 80 mm. Designed for chains and effective fixation of the brace to the body;
- Door pillar straightening plates 2-ton. The cost of clamps of this type is 2.7 thousand rubles. Ideally fixed to the surface of the car body;
- Plate bracket, an excellent option for stretching a deformed body. Withstands up to 3 tons when used with chains. Fixation is carried out using a screw. The cost of the plate is 2.7 thousand rubles;
- 2-way clamp that holds 3/2 ton. Used for body straightening. Makes it possible to pull metal in the forward direction with a force of up to 3 tons, in the lateral direction - up to 2 tons;
- A 5-ton clamp for body work from the Aist company, priced at 2.9 thousand rubles, is very functional. It works in only one direction, the width of the jaws is 45 mm;
- 2-ton clamp for body work, priced at 2.9 thousand rubles. The ideal flat design makes it easy to work in confined spaces. Functions in one direction;
- The grip, priced at 3 thousand rubles, is a very convenient tool for carrying out various work on the body;
- A pincer-like 5-ton body clamp, priced at 3.4 thousand rubles. The width of the jaws is 40 mm.
Calculation of required materials
Before starting work on the manufacture of a slipway, it is necessary to complete its drawing and calculate the amount of materials required. The platform should look like a rectangle (or better yet, several) made of metal profiles with a cross-section of 50×50 or 70×40 (the thicker the better). The optimal length is 2000 mm, the width is equal to the width of the car's wheelbase.
Why was this width chosen? In general, it is possible to manufacture a slipway with a width equal to the width of the wheelbase of the car. Or smaller than it, but with “shoots” from the frame, on which the clamps will be attached. The first method is preferable due to the location of the clamps.
In the middle of the platform it will be necessary to weld a stiffener from a similar metal profile. During the work, additional metal will be required, the amount of which is difficult to calculate at the initial stage of work.
After the calculation of the required amount of metal profile has been completed, it can be ordered from a special database or you can use an existing one.
To ensure the functionality of the slipway, it will need to be equipped with good hydraulics - a kit with a tonnage of up to 10 tons is suitable.
You also need to remember that there are two types of slipway: stationary (that is, installed in a specific place without the ability to move) and mobile (equipped with wheels and adapted for storage in a vertical position). If the second option is chosen, then you also need to purchase a set of wheels: 4 or more for the frame, 2 for the power rack.
Making a slipway
The frame is assembled by welding. That is, skills in working with a welding machine are required.
Stages of work:
- First of all, a rectangle is assembled from a metal profile of the estimated length and width; exactly in the middle it needs to be reinforced with an additional profile. The frame is assembled as the future owner of the slipway deems necessary. He may want to further strengthen the longitudinal sides of the frame, perhaps the transverse ones. There is no definite principled position on this issue.
- To increase the stability of the car on the slipway, it is necessary to weld heights in its corners that will prevent the car from possibly sliding off.
- The next stage is installing fasteners on the longitudinal sides of the frame. Fasteners are clamps with jaws that are required to securely fix the vehicle frame when loads are applied to it. There cannot be a strict location for fixing the fasteners; they must be able to move along the entire length of the frame. Making clamps with your own hands is also possible, but if they are on sale, then there is little point in this, since a homemade clamp will cost about the same as a factory one.
The role of clamps
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The main role of body clamps is to create pulling and pressing forces in the process of pulling the car body. If the slipway effectively corrects deformations by pulling out potholes in the body, then without special clamps it is simply a useless thing. Indeed, fixation and gripping is done using good clamps, usually on 4 sides. Almost everything depends on the reliability of the fixing moment. For this reason, it is important for a bodyworker to be able to select the correct clamps.
Body straightening grip
Some pile machines are equipped with mobile type clamps. They move without restrictions, giving easy access to all starting points of the metal frame, straightening it in any direction.
Types of slipways and their main differences
There are 4 types of design:
- Floor-standing. Standard rail mounted design.
- Roll-on. Small in size. Such structures are stored in a garage or workshop.
- Frame. Structures on chains designed for complete repairs and lifting the machine to a height.
- Platform. Designed for professional repairs. Suitable for large machines.
Floor structures
The floor slipway is also called stationary. Its difference is that there are rails on the floor that allow you to move the mechanisms. With their help it is easy to carry out body work.
The stationary slipway is convenient thanks to retractable mechanisms.
Floor structures have 3 advantages:
- They take up little space.
- They cost less than other slipways.
- Fast installation of transport.
The disadvantage is the complexity of installation of the structure.
Roll-up
A rolling slipway is a slipway that is used for light repair work if there is no full-fledged slipway or its use is impossible for some reason. The difference is that the rolling slipway is small in size - it is not necessary to roll the car up to it. You can bring the rolling slipway to the car.
This design has advantages:
- It is customizable for different types of cars.
- Possibility of equipping the device with hydraulics.
- The clamp fastening design has no analogues.
- Can be used with most types of machines.
- Compact size.
The disadvantage is that it is impossible to carry out complex work involving large distortions.
Frame
A distinctive feature of frame structures is the use of the frame as a base. The car is secured with chains. Most often this design is used for minor repairs. But, at the same time, the structure of frame stocks is more complex than others. They are equipped with grippers that allow you to fix the car body in the required position or even lift it to a certain height.
Step-by-step construction instructions
The construction of any home-made structures begins with the design stage. You need to make a slipway that is convenient to use. It is important that it does not take up too much space, blocking free movement.
The second point is always the creation of the structure's frame. The last point is to install fasteners and tightening devices yourself.
Drawings and dimensions
First you need to make suitable drawings. Ready-made options can be found below. The markings are made according to the dimensions of the vehicle. Afterwards the stage of preparation and selection of tools and materials begins. We will also need to make a mounting system large enough to fit our vehicle. It would be nice to cook it with the ability to change the height.
- Once all the drawings are ready and the materials have been selected, you can start working. First you will have to remove moisture from the materials and coat them with a primer. You can paint them right away, or you can leave this step for last.
- Now weld the metal corners to the base profile.
- Weld the profile (this will be the stand). It is secured with bolts.
- Now the chains, hooks and retractable devices are welded.
Frame making
The frame is responsible for fixing the car. Therefore, you need to be careful when creating it.
- Before creating the frame, you need to create the outer frame. It is to this that the frame will be mounted.
- A metal profile is suitable as a material. A stand and grips are attached to it (they are needed to fix the car threshold).
- Now the thresholds are being made. They are created from metal corners.
- Thresholds are installed on beams and secured with bolts.
- After installation, all elements will have to be secured by welding.
Fastening the body to the slipway
Clamps are required for fastening. If you can't buy them, make your own. You will need railway platforms (what the rails are attached to the sleepers). Each of the platforms is cut in half, and metal is welded onto the inside. It is cut into diamonds using a grinder.
You don't need to do anything to the outside. A plate 4 millimeters thick is also welded to the inside. It is important that the clamping device fixes the threshold and does not bend during use.
Installation of rack and pulling devices
Factory hydraulic attachments are suitable for racks and devices. If they cannot be purchased, a homemade mechanism will do. The power of the device should be from 1 to 2 tons. To attach the pulling devices, you need a pad. It is made from a channel and installed in the frame of the slipway. To place the tightening mechanism and chains in any place, it is necessary to make holes in the frame along the entire slipway.
If the stand is made independently, it is recommended to use a tower device. It is heavy, but the restoration of the car will be uniform.
Making a slipway is not that difficult. If you have basic knowledge of construction, you can easily do everything yourself. The main thing is to choose the right material and make the right drawings.
DIY body clamps
Guys, what do you think about this homemade clamp based on channel 12 (120 mm), width 40 mm, height shortened to 20 mm, M16 bolts. I also added a new configuration with a wedge
66
Hello. There's no need to waste time here. It’s better to make your own adaptations for the slipway and spotter, etc. Good factory metal lasts for many years. The file won't take it. But if the clamps are g... Then you can even throw the factory in the trash. They are of little use. They bend, the notch is eaten instantly. There are also quality Chinese ones. Now everything is Chinese. You need to look when you take it.
Yes, I later bought a factory one, it coped with its task)
Everyone here advises you to buy it because... metal G, out of idle curiosity I want to ask if it is possible to find high-quality metal or at an expensive price.
you can find it, you’ll just have to mill it from a solid one
Adaptation for a torture chamber?
yeah for a dentist
it would be funnier - for a urologist
The factory clamp solves the problem, this homemade product is complete bullshit, it won’t fit anywhere with scarves later. I use inexpensive tota clamp clamps, maybe you can find them in your region. I use chains from a coal conveyor. I cut one link as a connector, so far I haven’t been able to straighten it, although there are and minibuses and cargo cabins, and there’s a lot of metal there.
IMHO: the wedge should be made sharper...thereby the clamping force will be greater...well, the long sides of the “jaws” could be thicker...
only if you weld the front walls or weld the back mortgages
buy the real ones at the store... you'll suffer with the homemade gun... yes... they're expensive... but they work as expected...
It is advisable to change the operating principle of the clamp. A simple grab breaks the winch with a force of 250 kg. It is necessary with a wedge clamp, the harder you pull, the more the gripping jaws compress.
This one is much weaker than mine, it’s definitely for me to pull out the spar and not a jammed empty seam. rather weak
Mine is tested and pulls 2.5 tons, but yours is drawn and not tested. There is no justification for the assumption of weakness...
what does 2.5 tons mean and how is force measured?
winch 2.5 tons. which he pulled to the limit and tapped with a reverse hammer to relieve the tension... You are too self-confident.
It’s not a matter of self-confidence, the rigidity of the structure is simply not visible, all hope is in the thickness of the metal
It seems to me that the quality of the metal will not allow the idea to be realized. will bend. and if you cook it, it will weaken it even more. dangerous if it breaks
Idk. If it’s filthy ferrous metal, then at least cook it. trying is not torture. If it flies off once, we'll see. I'd rather buy a normal clamp
You can’t heat it, it will tear when jerking...
It seems to me that the quality of the metal will not allow the idea to be realized. will bend. and if you cook it, it will weaken it even more. dangerous if it breaks
What difference does it make what you cook?
The heating area is, firstly, smaller and the properties of the metal are completely different from those of the arc.)
yeah, and if it doesn’t warm up, it won’t cook
The heating area is, firstly, smaller and the properties of the metal are completely different from those of the arc.)
in this case, under such loads, welding is not very reliable. maybe I'm wrong. but taking risks is more expensive for yourself
The heating area is, firstly, smaller and the properties of the metal are completely different from those of the arc.)
not long ago I cooked a “miracle shovel” from 12 rods and a profile. I’ve already tried to pin and strengthen it. I cooked it semi-automatically - one horseradish bends and breaks. I never expected this. and all our construction ferrous metal is like this.
It seems to me that the quality of the metal will not allow the idea to be realized.
will bend. and if you cook it, it will weaken it even more. It’s dangerous if it breaks. Welding won’t have any effect, since the edges of the channel will be weakened, which are not involved in the work in any way, that is, it’s the same as taking the channel a few mm narrower.
a neighbor uses a Soviet household vice, having slightly modified it
can you take a photo?
The photo is problematic, the garages are cooperative, it’s hard to meet each other, but I’ll try to explain - these vices consist of two parts, one anvil with fasteners to the table, a clamp is screwed to the anvil, made according to the principle of tweezers with a spring, type “hand vice with a clamp”
And it's a good idea
look now added pictures
Okay, that's what I thought too.
The channel can bend inward in the center when you tighten both bolts in the center, thereby reducing the clamping force of the jaws and the fastening of the end bolt will deteriorate. A gap will appear between the channel flanges and they will bend outward. Maybe weld strips along the edges to create more rigidity?
like factory