Galvanized steel drip tides: do-it-yourself manufacturing, installation and repair of drainage gutters

A properly equipped roof can provide a beautiful and neat facade, as well as strong walls of the house that are not undermined by bad weather. It is this that can protect a building from precipitation and preserve its original appearance for a long time, ensuring the protection of materials from the harmful effects of weather conditions. The system for removing excess moisture from the roof deserves special attention, so installing flashings on the roof was, is and will be one of the priority tasks during the construction of a house. How to do it yourself? Let's look at specific examples.

Installing roof flashings

The ebb is a rectangular or circular gutter located under the roof overhang

Structural elements of the external drainage system

When designing a drainage system, the following design elements must be taken into account:

Elements of external drainage.

1. Gutters. They are the main element of the drainage system. Must be strong enough, because... not only serve to drain rainwater, but also retain large volumes of snow in winter.
2. Pipes. The water coming through the gutters is discharged into special receivers or sewers.
3. Funnels. They are used to collect water from gutters and supply it to pipes.
4. Plugs. They are installed at the ends of gutters and serve to protect against water overflow during heavy rainfalls.
5. Mounting brackets. They fix the gutters in the desired position and give the structure stability.
6. Rotations of gutters and pipe bends. Necessary for directing water flows in the right direction.
7. Sealing gaskets and rubber rings. Provide a hermetically sealed connection between the gutters.
8. Connecting couplings and clamps. They are used to secure pipes together and fasten them to the walls of the building.

Additional Information

After installation is completed, the operation of the tides can be checked by running a large flow of water through the system. At this point, you can immediately identify leaks, if any, and also see how effectively the system copes with wastewater. If deficiencies are identified, it is better to correct them immediately, without delaying until the system is put into operation.

Mistakes when installing roof drains

It is best to discharge rainwater into specially made grooves leading to the sewerage system. You can also install collection containers under drain pipes. The water collected in this way can be useful for gardening and other needs.

In general, outlets should be located so that they do not interfere with movement around the house, and also so that water flowing through the pipes does not harm the plants planted around it. During heavy rains, flows of liquid can cause irreparable damage to crops.

Drain from sewer pipes

To avoid difficult situations, it is recommended to regularly inspect the drainage system for damage and malfunctions. Defects that are noticed immediately and are not neglected are much easier to correct than those that have existed for a long time and gradually undermine and destroy the bends even more.

To install drip tides, you will need a little experience in using construction tools, desire and knowledge of information about how all the work is done in stages. In general, there is nothing complicated here, but still, you should not neglect to thoroughly study the instructions. Correcting mistakes made out of ignorance is often too difficult.

Roof flashing parameters

Installing ebb linings on the roof is the last stage of work; before that, you first need to select and buy them.

Materials

At the moment, buying roof flashings is not a problem; choosing them is more difficult. I’ll tell you about prices later, but now let’s briefly go through the materials.

What are roof drains made of?

Photo

Materials

Cink Steel

The thickness of the sheet here does not exceed 1 mm, so the design is quite light, plus the price of drainage is quite reasonable.

Polymer coated steel

Here the steel sheet is coated with plastisol, polyester and other similar polymers. The stability of such a coating is an order of magnitude higher than that of conventional galvanization.

Aluminum

The main advantage of aluminum gutters is their light weight, plus this metal is not subject to corrosion, so it does not require painting.

Copper

Manufacturers provide a guarantee of 70 years for copper roof gutters, but they last much longer.

Copper is not afraid of aggressive chemicals, corrosion and other troubles, the only problem is that the price of such structures is several times higher than the cost of plastic or galvanized drainage systems.

Plastic

Now every third developer chooses plastic molding. The design is light, elegant, plus modern polymers do not fade in the sun.

Envious people say that plastic gutters are fragile, but if you choose a proper manufacturer and install the roof flashings correctly, they will last for decades.

Gutter shape

The shape of roof drains can be semicircular, rectangular or shaped. Strictly rectangular gutters, frankly speaking, are not for everyone. Their figured counterparts look original, but are much more expensive.

Semicircular types of gutters are considered the most convenient, practical and popular. Their advantage is that such structures do not have internal corners where dirt and debris constantly collect, and cleaning the roof gutter without special equipment is very problematic with your own hands.

As practice shows, semicircular roof flashings are the best option

Gutter calculation

To calculate the amount of material, you need the length of the perimeter and the square of the projection of the roof onto the ground (the square of the area under the house). According to the instructions, the length of one gutter directed into one funnel should not exceed 10 m, but in reality it is better to start from 5, maximum 7 m.

On long spans of roofing, the gutters are cut from the center to the sides, where drain funnels are installed at the corners. The arrangement of funnels and cutting points of straight roof spans depends on the configuration of the structure.

Installation of the drip tide is planned at the rate of 5 - 7 m of straight gutter per 1 drain funnel

• After measuring the roof perimeter, you need to add 10 - 15% to the total footage; they will be used for trimming and overlap at the joining points.
• If possible, a funnel should be installed at each corner of the roof.
• On average, support brackets are installed at 600 mm intervals.

When calculating the width of the gutter, this is the case. According to the rules, for every square meter of the roof plane there is 1.5 mm of width. That is, a 150 mm gutter is installed on a roof of 100 m². But in reality, professionals usually make it simpler.

• On the roofs of residential buildings with a roof area of ​​up to 100 m², a gutter 100 mm wide is installed.
• For a square area of ​​up to 120 m², the gutter width is taken to be 120 mm.
• For a square area of ​​up to 150 m², the gutter width is taken to be 150 mm.

As for drainpipes, brackets and other accessories, stores usually come with it all included. You tell the width of the gutter and they select the entire system for you. When selecting fittings, it is advisable to choose pipes with a large diameter, this way there is less chance of clogging.

Metal roof drains can have several fitting options

Price issues

No matter how beautiful the roof flashings are, their price depends on 2 things. Firstly, brand awareness, and secondly, the price level in the region. I have calculated the average cost of roof drainage; you can use it as a guide, but you should not make final calculations.

Average price of roof casting

Material

Price per 1 m (Russian rubles)

Plastic: good or bad?

Plastic window tints are considered the most “quiet”. When raindrops fall on them, there is almost no sound. And they are also considered inexpensive, which is important if the budget is limited. Only unpainted galvanization is cheaper, but its appearance, after several years of use, is not very attractive, the paint holds very poorly.

What are the disadvantages of plastic moldings? The fact is that plastic loses its elasticity under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, becomes brittle, and can crack under load. And, even if there are no serious cracks, there are always microcracks. They form over time and become filled with dust. After a couple of years, the once snow-white plastic becomes grayish or has a yellow tint. Nothing can wash it off. If installing window sills every five to ten years doesn’t bother you, you can use them too.

Plastic ebbs are two planes connected by jumpers. You have to step very carefully

The following disadvantages of plastic moldings are flammability and significant thermal expansion. Plastic melts at high temperatures. If a cigarette butt gets on it, a hole will be provided. It may not happen that often, but there is a possibility.

Thermal expansion manifests itself if the installation of window sills on windows is done rigidly - the strip is fixed with self-tapping screws. Then, in hot weather, it “goes in waves” and bends. Afterwards, it usually returns to normal. In order not to worry about thermal expansion, oblong rather than round holes should first be made in the edge of the ebb, to which it will be attached. When tightening the screws, do not press down the plastic too much. Then, when changing the size, the plastic casting will not “behave”.

Plastic drip installation

The second point is to leave a thermal gap on the sides, which is filled with silicone waterproof sealant (for outdoor use). In this case, thermal expansion will not cause a “wave”. The plastic will simply expand a little, compressing the sealant, then return to normal. So installing plastic drip sills has its own nuances.

How to make drains with your own hands

Zinc drain

Without inviting a specialist, drainage is easy to do yourself and quite inexpensive. In their manufacture, plastic, aluminum or galvanized sheet metal are most often used.

The simplest thing is to cut lengthwise a thin-walled metal pipe with a diameter of about 150 mm. The result will be: two gutters for collecting water. To prevent corrosion, it is recommended to coat these parts with special compounds or varnish of the desired color.

The last stage of work will be the direct installation of gutters using fastening material in places where moisture accumulates.

The production of ebb and flow from galvanized steel sheets is not particularly difficult. For this you will need: a sheet of galvanized metal seven millimeters thick, a machine for bending metal structures. This can be done without a machine with a hammer and mallet, using a corner or a piece of rail, but the appearance of the drain will be poor.

The galvanized sheet is cut into strips of the required width and corresponding sheet length. The strip is then placed in a machine where a cast is made from it. The finished elements are coated with a protective compound, dried and prepared for installation.

Installation instructions for drip tides

Tides are designed to provide protection from adverse weather conditions.
Low tides allow water and snow to flow down to the ground and not accumulate on the window ledge or foundation. Flashings significantly extend the service life of facades. The main material for their production is aluminum and galvanized sheets. Low tides are divided into

•Window sills

•Ebbings for the foundation

•Shields for fences

Master sheet bender

manufactures castings of any complexity and configuration. Product manufacturing time is from 10 minutes.

To calculate the price for manufacturing ebb tides, contact our manager, or use the price list

Calculation of materials for roof drainage

The required cross-sectional area of ​​the groove can be established using SP 17.13330.2011. The document states that per square meter of roofing area there should be 1.5 cm² of gutter cross-section. Any competent installation of roof tides is also accompanied by a calculation of the average annual precipitation in the region. The procedure makes it possible to determine the cross-section of drainpipes in accordance with the recommendations of SP 32.13330.2012. It remains to determine their diameter in accordance with the instructions of SP 30.13330.

Some manufacturers provide their own tables for selecting an effective drainage system. Having decided on the standard size of the drainage system, all that remains is to select the elements of the kit. For example, on a straight wall for a riser you will need:

1. Funnel groove.
2. One elbow for lower outlet.
3. Two elbows for connecting the pipe to the wall.
4. One fastening for the funnel assembly and two for each pipe.

To get around the protrusions on the wall, you will need 4 more elbows and 2 pipes for connection. The ends of the gutter must be closed with plugs. The segments are arranged in such a way as to obtain a minimum of waste. Based on the number of joints, the number of connecting elements with seals is calculated.

Each gutter component is fixed with brackets at the ends with a 150mm offset. Along the remaining length, the fastenings are distributed at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other, which corresponds to the pitch of the rafters. To install a 3-meter gutter, you need 6 brackets with a pitch of 500 mm.

Installation of ebb and flow on PVC profile windows

Regardless of the material - metal or plastic - the window sill is installed according to the same scheme. In the case of metal, gaskets are needed to reduce noise, but the general procedure remains the same.

There is a special protrusion in the frame profile for installing the ebb. The upper edge of the ebb goes under it. But this protrusion is only available if the PVC window was mounted on a stand (mounting) profile. Then installing the slope is a very simple matter. It must be cut to the width; if necessary, rubber or other material must be “planted” on the back side of the plank with universal glue for “silence”.

Correct installation of sills on PVC windows

Then all that remains is to insert the projection of the ebb into the groove, blow out the required amount of foam, and fix the ebb to the stand profile with three or more self-tapping screws. To prevent leaks from the sides, the areas where the ebb tide joins the window opening should be coated with silicone sealant. It’s better to take a transparent one - it will be less noticeable.

What if we play it safe?

To be on the safe side, before installing the ebb in the groove, you can apply the same silicone sealant. This will definitely prevent water from getting inside, even with a very strong wind directed at the window. The second “control shot” also concerns waterproofing. It is relevant for materials that are very susceptible to getting wet. For example, this is exactly what it is advisable to do when installing slopes on windows mounted in a frame house. In this case, before installing the window sill, a waterproofing tape is laid. It is advisable that the tape hangs over the wall - then even if some of the water gets on it, it will still end up outside the walls.

For those who like to play it safe

For waterproofing, you can use any rolled material that is suitable for outdoor use and can withstand frost and heat. Installing window sills in this way will prevent the area under the window from getting wet, even if the rain is very heavy.

If a plastic window is installed without a support profile

What to do if a plastic window is installed in violation of the technology and the groove is inaccessible? During installation, a plastic window is often leveled using triangular bars. After alignment, the window is attached to the opening, and the bars are left as is. If this is your case, you can secure the slope to these bars. If necessary, they can be trimmed. You just have to work carefully so as not to move them.

If everything is already installed and sealed, only the frame frame is available, you can screw the ebb to the frame. To seal, you can use a sealing gasket (rubber tape) and coat it with the best possible sealant. Additionally, you can screw some kind of flashing on top. Maybe he can save the situation a little.

Incorrectly attaching the sill to the window frame

But even with this approach, there is no certainty that water will not flow in. Maybe initially everything will be fine, but over time moisture will clearly get in. So, if possible, it is better to dismantle the incorrectly installed plastic window and install it again - according to the rules.

How to calculate the diameter of ebb tides

In order to correctly install ebbs on the roof, it is necessary to correctly calculate its dimensions, since ebbs of insufficient depth and width may not cope with the function assigned to it.

The following values ​​are used for calculations:

• distance between drainage outlets and gutter turning points;
• roof area.

To determine the area of ​​the roof, it is conditionally divided into elements in the form of geometric shapes (rectangles, triangles, etc.) and the area of ​​each of them is calculated. Then the results obtained are summarized.

On each slope it is necessary to install two gutters with a slope towards the pipe intended for drainage. The diameter of the gutter can be 100 or 125 millimeters; it is selected based on the intensity of the expected load on the drainage system. If the building is small, you can install gutters of a smaller diameter.

Features of tides for wooden windows

A groove must also be made in the frame of a wooden window for installation. In this case, there are no problems and installing window sills is no different. To be on the safe side, you can also lay a strip of waterproofing under the tide, tucking it into the same groove. When using a sealant, you need to look for one that has good adhesion (adhesion) to wood and metal or plastic - depends on the type of casting chosen.

External tides on wooden windows

If there is no ebb groove in a wooden window, you can make one yourself. The groove is not made too deep and wide. This may be a narrow cut into which only thin metal can be inserted. To prevent wood destruction, treat the cut with protective agents before installation. As a last resort, you can apply paint.

Materials

Due to the constant impact of unfavorable environmental factors (precipitation, temperature changes, sun, wind), the correct choice of ebb material is extremely important.

Modern tides are made from different materials.

Cink Steel

. For the manufacture of castings, steel is used in sheets up to 1 mm thick. For additional protection against corrosion and to add aesthetics to the structure, a coating of polyester, pural or plastisol is used.

Aluminum

. The thickness of the original sheets is 0.8-1 mm. To protect against corrosion, a special multi-colored varnish is used, which also improves the appearance of the tides.

Copper

. Can be used both without treatment and with oxidation or brass plating. It is considered the most beautiful, high-quality and durable material for making castings. It has a significant disadvantage - a high price.

Polymers

. Due to their low cost, increased strength, noiselessness, ultraviolet resistance and durability, polyester and plastisol have become widespread in the manufacture of castings. Due to their light weight and ease of installation, it is quite possible to install roof ebbs.

Why is low tide needed?

The installation of ebb tides on the roof has several purposes:

• strengthening roof rigidity;
• increasing resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
• aesthetic appeal;
• protecting walls from large amounts of water;
• additional roof protection;
• closing joints between materials.

Organizing a water drainage system is not difficult if it is carried out in accordance with the requirements for installation and selection of material. Currently, there is simply a huge range of systems that allows you to assemble a kit in accordance with your requirements for color and other characteristics.

Stages of installation of drip tides

Installing a low tide is considered a fairly simple process, but it, in turn, requires responsibility and care so that in the end the result suits not only you, but also everyone living in the house.

Preparation

First you need to prepare all the consumables and tools so that the installation process does not stop for a moment. You will need the following consumables and items:

• Brackets (special fastenings);
• Pipe according to the height of the house;
• Connecting inserts;
• Self-tapping screws that are suitable for fixing the material used;
• Clamps for fastening the pipe to the walls of the house;
• Funnel;
• Gutter

First you need to prepare the tools for work:

At the initial stage, you need to prepare the place where water drains from the roof. Draining the water should not harm the greenery growing in the yard, the foundation of the house, or the paving slabs. If sewerage is already installed on your site, then this problem in itself is eliminated.

Lane marking

Installation must be carried out from the marking of the strip where the low tide will be recorded. First, a water intake funnel is installed, so a transverse line is designated for it. The holders are installed at a distance of 15 centimeters from the edges of the funnel, on both sides.

The vertical line drawn from the edge of the roof must fall closer to the wall of the building, and not to the very center of the gutter; this must be taken into account when installing holders and funnels.

This design helps water not pass through the edge during heavy rainfall. To do this, you also need to give the gutter a certain slope angle.

Marking the line for fastening the holders and tilting the gutter

Take a long board and a building level, and use them to draw a “zero” line along the bottom edge of the holder all the way to the fastening area of ​​the last holder.
You will need to calculate the difference between the mounting height of the final and installed holders. This distance is multiplied by three. The bracket must be secured, taking into account all the calculations made. This line is marked using a tracing cord. The holders are installed at a distance, this distance is approximately half a meter. First, markings are made for all the holders and only then are they fastened.

Installation of gutters along the length

Parts of the gutter must be installed in the holders so that there are spaces for connecting inserts directly between the holders. Correctly installed sections are secured with inserts that have boundary marks. The distance between the edges of the gutters should be 7-12 cm.

The assembled gutter is placed in the holders, and the inclination is checked using water. Even a large amount of liquid must pass easily through the chute; if this does not happen, it means that the system needs to be rearranged again.

Installation of a drainpipe

If there are no damages or deficiencies, then you can begin installing the drainpipe, which is installed from the funnel itself. You can secure the pipe using an elbow, this will depend on the distance to the wall

It is important to pre-prepare the required number of pipes and all fastening elements so as not to interrupt installation at its final stage

Properly installed drip linings will give your home an attractive appearance and protect your home from the negative effects of moisture.

But even roof flashings made from the highest quality materials require constant care. It consists of periodically cleaning the gutters from dirt and debris. This is especially true with the arrival of cold weather, since if there is water in them, then when it freezes it can damage the entire system. Constant maintenance of drainage systems will protect not only the structure itself, but also the walls of the house.

Roof flashings

Installation

Installation details can be seen in the presented photos to make it clearer how to properly install a metal drainage system.

Primary requirements

• To install and secure the tray, use the fastenings included with the drip tray. Depending on the specific conditions, they are screwed to the rafters, fascia board or roof board. (If the roof has no overhang or has a very small overhang, it is allowed to screw them directly to the wall).
• When installing the brackets, it is important to ensure that at the highest point of the tray, its outer edge is at least three centimeters lower than the plane of the roofing. Therefore, installation of fasteners should begin from this edge of the roof.
• The distance between the brackets affects the rigidity of the tray, so the installation step is taken to be 50-70 cm. Fasteners installed at the corners are never superfluous.
• The edge of the roof should be above the longitudinal axis of the gutter, or at a distance of 1/2 the width of the gutter. Otherwise, storm water will splash out beyond its boundaries.
• The distance between the wall of the building and the walls of the tray is 5-8 cm, so that the wall does not become damp or moldy.
• When installing and fastening tray parts, use a 1-2 mm rubber gasket to protect the paint or varnish layer of the parts.
• Gutters are installed taking into account the drainage of water into the storm drain. Therefore, they are placed opposite the storm drain. The distance from the ground to the bottom of the drain is 15-30 cm.

Carrying out work on a pitched roof

Step 1. First of all, you need to mark the axis of the funnel. If the location of the storm drain inlet is already available, then the axis of the drain (ideally) is located directly opposite its center. Otherwise, the location of the pipe is 20-30 cm from the edge of the building (see step 6.) Using a vertical level, mark the axis of the drain. The distance from the funnel to the bracket closest to it should not be less than 5 and more than 15 cm. From the outermost bracket to the end of the cornice or front board - at least 5 cm.

Step 2. Installation of fastening parts. All attention here is to maintaining the slope. The outer brackets are installed first. Having screwed one, the second is installed with a difference in height equal to the product of the slope and the distance between the brackets. For example, with a distance of 8 m and a slope of 0.005 (this is 0.5 cm/1 pm), we have a difference of 4 cm. The second bracket is screwed on, taking this difference into account. A fishing line is stretched between the fastenings, along which all intermediate fastenings are installed with the required pitch. It is necessary to install two fasteners at the junction points of the trays so that one of them supports one gutter, the second supports the other. Also, a bracket is placed on both sides of the funnel (no further than 15 cm from its edge).

Step 3: Preparing to install the funnel. The number of funnels is calculated in advance. To do this, determine the projection area of ​​the roof surface (area) from which rainwater will flow into the tray. One drain pipe can receive sediment from an area of ​​no more than 120 sq.m or from a slope length of no more than 12 m (the number of drains is taken according to the minimum parameter). The tray marks the location for installing the funnel. After this, a V-shaped hole with a diameter of up to 11 centimeters is cut out with a hacksaw. The edges of the hole are slightly bent outward using pliers. After this, a funnel is put on the gutter (in the lock) and attached to it on the other side with clamps. A plug is installed at the end of this tray. Before installation, the joint is coated with silicone sealant (transparent).

Step 4. Installation of drain elements begins with the installation of the first element with a funnel. Next, the gutter is assembled. When you start installing the tray elements from the bottom point, make sure that the edge of each next one lies on top of the previous one. Water flowing down should not go under the edge of the overlying element. The main thing here is to correctly position (without turning over) the tray elements and ensure that the joints are made correctly.

Step 5. The contours are mounted on the bottom of the funnel.

Step 6. The drainpipe is installed vertically. If the location of the storm sewer inlet has not yet been determined, then they usually do this: a vertical line is drawn along the vertical level at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from the corner of the building, on which clamps are installed to attach the pipes. The installation step of the clamps is 1 m. The clamp, intended for fastening the bottom of the pipe, is installed and secured at a height of 30 centimeters. At the top, the pipe may have several elements that deflect its progress. This is necessary to accurately position the top of the pipe under the funnel. For this purpose, corner elements – contours – are used. Important detail. The smoother the change in the course of the pipe, the less likely it is for debris to be retained in it. Therefore, it is advisable to use contours with a 45-degree angle.

Step 7. Water is supplied to the roof away from the funnel and from the system with a hose or a bucket of water is poured out. If water did not get past the drain and did not flow through the joints, then everything was done correctly.

If the roof is covered with bitumen shingles, it is necessary to install a drip line. The drip line is placed in a gutter so that drops bouncing off it do not fall under the roofing material.

Types of roof flashings

Roof flashings can be made of various materials - plastic, metals (galvanized steel, copper). They have different shapes. The purpose of ebb tides is to collect water from the roof and drain it into the drainage system using special devices. This drainage element must have such characteristics as: increased strength, resistance to loads and mechanical stress, the presence of an anti-corrosion coating, and an attractive appearance.

The galvanized steel casting has a thickness of no more than 1 millimeter. Such products are additionally coated with polyester, pural, and plastisol. If the steel does not have such a coating, the house will not be very comfortable to live in: the sound of raindrops is greatly enhanced.

The aluminum casting has a thickness of 0.8-1 millimeters. To protect against corrosion, it is coated with varnish on all sides. To improve the appearance of the product, varnishes of various colors can be used.

Copper castings are subjected to brass plating or oxidation. Elements made of this metal are durable and have an attractive appearance. They will last a long time, but their cost is quite high.

What to look for when purchasing and installing

Even if you choose a good material, poor installation can ruin everything.

It is necessary to pay special attention to the installation of the drip sill Source ms.decorexpro.com

In order for roof drainage systems to serve for many years, you must adhere to the following rules :

1. The size of the gutter should correspond to the area of ​​the roof slope. The larger it is, the larger the diameter of the gutter should be. Otherwise, the structure may not cope with water drainage during heavy rain or intense snow melting.
2. Fittings and all materials for fastening must match the design in size and material.
3. When ordering flashings, you must add a margin of 15% or slightly less to the required length for installation of joints.
4. A drip cap will prevent splashing. It slides under the roof and its bottom fits into the gutter.
5. Each slope is usually equipped with two drainage pipes.
6. A sufficient number of drainpipes are required
7. The ebb tides should be a few centimeters . Otherwise, they may be damaged when the snow melts.
8. In most cases, the color of the tides The approach to external design depends on whether this element should serve as a decorative element or whether it should be practically invisible.

The color of the ebb can be matched to the color of the roof Source coh.noribeta.ru.net

Design and purpose of drainage

The drainage system is a combination of main and auxiliary components of the structure. The main ones include gutters, funnels and pipes, and the auxiliary ones include plugs and fasteners.

Based on placement, a distinction is made between internal and external drainage systems. Internal is used for buildings with a flat roof. In this case, the roofing material is laid with an inclination towards the funnel. Water flowing down the roof is collected in a funnel, then enters a pipe located in the wall of the building or in a technical channel.

External drainage system is used for pitched roofs. All structural elements are installed on the outside of the building.

The main purpose of drainage is to drain melt and rainwater from the roof of a building to a designated place.

If there are no ebb tides, water falling from the roof will destroy the concrete blind area or paving slabs around the building.

The accumulation of excess water in the soil around the house will lead to flooding of the basement and basement floors. Absorbing into the soil, the water will wash away the foundation of the house. As a result, it will begin to sag and cracks will appear on the walls. The operation of such a building will become unsafe.

Option #2. Installation of ebb tides on the frontal board

We have already talked above about how to correctly install the ebb in relation to the roof, so we will start right away from the moment of installing the hangers.

Installation of brackets

In this case, you won’t need a strip bender; the hangers are screwed to the front board using ordinary self-tapping screws with a press washer.

• Decide where you will have the far (high) suspension. Remember to leave a 150mm tolerance from the far edge of the gutter to the hanger.
• Now you need to determine the location of the suspension closest to the funnel; it is installed taking into account the slope of the gutter.
• Next, stretch the guide cord between the brackets and screw the intermediate brackets to the front board.

Advice! When installing extreme hangers on the frontal board, it is convenient to use a simple hydraulic level; it costs a penny, but you don’t have to measure everything using cords and rulers.

Brackets on the front board are easier to install using a hydraulic level

Assembly and installation of gutters

Plastic roof drainage systems change their linear dimensions due to temperature changes. Thus, a prefabricated gutter section 10 m long varies within 35 mm, which is about 3 – 7 mm per linear meter.

Plastic gutters change their linear dimensions due to temperature changes

To level out these fluctuations, special compensator units have been invented. They are a movable section of the trough with temperature graduations inside. The graduation is set according to the air temperature at the time of installation of the low tide.

That is, if the temperature is, for example, 20ºC, you set the unit to the appropriate division and glue gutters to it on both sides. The same graduation is also available on plastic drain funnels.

The graduation on the compensating insert or funnel is set according to the air temperature at the time of installation of the low tide

Plastic gutters are usually sold in sections of 3 m; there are special inserts with grooves for joining them. You need to lubricate the insert with glue and insert the adjacent edges of the gutters into these grooves. By the way, dead-end plugs, as well as external and internal corners, are mounted according to a similar pattern; they simply sit on the glue.

Well-known brands produce special types of glue for their products, but, as a last resort, you can take any polymer glue for plastic, for example “Moment Installation”

Important! Keep in mind that connecting inserts, expansion joints and funnels must be located at a distance of at least 90 mm from the nearest suspension.

The joint between gutter sections cannot be mounted closer than 90 mm from the suspension, compensator or funnel

It is not difficult to insert the gutters into the hangers; there are clamps for this. Hook the inner edge of the gutter to the latch closest to the front board and lightly press the gutter so that it clicks into the outer latch.

How plastic roof drains are fixed to hanging brackets

Important! Plastic gutters must never be glued to hanging brackets. Otherwise, when the air temperature changes, the system will begin to warp and the gutter will move in waves.

Installation of a drainpipe

The overhang of the eaves on each roof is different; in order to maintain the correct angle of inclination of the drainpipe elbow there is a special table, it is shown in the photo below.

Options for installing the upper bend of the drainpipe relative to the wall of the house

As for fastening brackets, there are many models, although the meaning is the same - the step of fixing the pipe on the wall should not exceed 2 m, and the gap between the pipe and the wall is not particularly important and often depends on the type of bracket.

If the height of the plastic drainpipe exceeds 4 m, then it is necessary to insert a compensation pipe. It works on the same principle as the compensator assembly on the gutter. There is a small nuance here - the pipe is glued only from the bottom, the upper part is simply inserted into the pipe.

The distance between drainpipe hangers should not exceed 2 m

Now the final step remains - installing the lower elbow on the drainpipe. Theoretically, you can do without it, but then in a couple of years the water under the pipe will knock out a hole in the blind area. The elbow is simply glued to the bottom of the pipe. The recommended distance from the edge of the knee to the blind area is 200 mm.

There should be no more than 200 mm from the edge of the drainpipe elbow to the blind area

Advice! It’s not just more convenient to install drip linings on the front board; if you have to repair the drainage system, it’s easier to do it here, and in the case of installing hangers on rafters, you will need to lift the roofing material or dismantle part of the roof.

Materials for low tides

The drainage system consists of a set of standard products. Before making a choice of a particular material, you need to familiarize yourself with the parameters of this system.

Correctly determine how well the unified elements fit the facade of the house. The main elements of the drainage system are gutters and pipes.

The video below shows the design of a roof drainage system.

Today there are various types of these products on the market for free sale. The kit necessarily includes brackets, plugs, clamps and other elements.

When planning to install ebb tides yourself, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the parameters of the products that are offered for sale.

Galvanized castings

Until recently, galvanized steel was widely used for the manufacture of moldings.

The main advantage of products of this type is their low price.

The destruction of zinc coating occurs under the influence of acid rain, which has become increasingly frequent in recent decades.

Aluminum ebbs

Aluminum products have a longer service life.

You can make them yourself or buy them ready-made and paint them in a color suitable for a particular building.

The gutters are secured using rivets or aluminum glue.

Sealing the joints can be done with silicone or a special paste.

Copper casts

Copper tides are considered the most durable.

The products are made from pure metal and do not have additional coatings.

The elements are connected to each other by soldering or folding.

Installation of copper gutters must be done in such a way as to avoid contact with other metals - copper or steel.

PVC sills

Today, plastic products are most widespread.

To install such systems, couplings, latches with rubber seals and special glue are used.

Plastic castings are not subject to corrosion and retain their characteristics even with maximum temperature changes.

Making a roof sill with your own hands from plastic parts for sewerage

You don’t have to buy a ready-made casting, but make it yourself. A variety of materials are used for this: metal and plastic pipes, sheet metal and even plastic bottles.

The market provides a wide range of plastic products for sewerage, which allows you to make drains of any shape and size from them. The parts are fastened using conventional clamps and brackets. The main advantage of such ebb tides is their low cost. Parts are selected based on the throughput of the tides. The most commonly used PVC pipes are “saffron milk caps” with a diameter of 110 mm (for the manufacture of gutters it is better to select long elements), with a diameter of 50 mm (for gutters), tees (for funnels).

First, a design drawing is made and the necessary parts are selected. Then the gutter elements are made by longitudinally sawing the pipes (the cut areas are sanded). The elements are connected to each other using glue or using connectors. Attach the ebb under the roof in the same way as described above using purchased or homemade brackets. Cylinders with a diameter slightly smaller than the tray are rolled up from plastic mesh, secured with wire or clamps and placed in ebbs to protect them from debris.

Types of tides

Low tides can be made from absolutely any materials, as well as in any forms. The main task of this design is to collect water from the roof surface and then transport it to the drainage or sewer system.

Differences between casts by material:

• Flashings made of galvanized steel. The thickness of this structure does not exceed one millimeter. For these ebbs, a coating using plastisol or polyester is provided, this is done in order to muffle the noise of falling raindrops, otherwise the steel surface will only amplify this sound;
• Aluminum castings. The thickness of this structure is also about one millimeter. Aluminum castings are treated with a special varnish on both sides in order to protect the product from possible corrosion;
• Raw copper is also a material for making castings. These structures are additionally processed with an alloy of zinc and copper. They are characterized by an attractive appearance and high quality, although the price of ebb tides can be very high for some consumers.
• Moldings made of plastisol and polyester have high durability and strength. In addition, they are characterized by resistance to ultraviolet rays and low weight. Due to these characteristics, they are very popular today. Also pleasing is the convenient installation of products, which you can do yourself;
• Plastic ebbs will help highlight the individuality of your home, offering a huge range of colors for the construction. These products do not require special care and are not afraid of temperature changes. The enormous popularity of plastic sills is also explained by the fact that they create almost no noise when it rains and have an affordable price.

Factors that influence the choice of tide

All roof flashings must perform the following functions:

• high resistance to external factors, including precipitation and sudden temperature changes;
• an aesthetic function that provides a beautiful appearance to your home;
• protection of the roof and walls from moisture.

The choice of tide depends precisely on the absence or presence of these basic characteristics. Each of the above materials has its own special advantages, but some of them are more pronounced, others are not so visible.

At the moment, preference is given to ebbs made of plastic and metal. Such products are coated with a special layer that protects them from corrosion. The quality of the product depends significantly on the grade of steel and its thickness.

Castings made from non-ferrous metals are also popular due to their high quality, attractive appearance and durability. But their price is an order of magnitude higher than conventional products, so they are available only to those people who are willing to allocate the necessary (considerable) amount of money for the installation of this system.

Plastic casts

These ebbs will serve perfectly if the attic of the house is used as a living room.

The main advantages of installing plastic ebbs include:

• Ease of use and speed of installation are achieved due to the light weight of the product;
• Affordable price;
• The size of the ebb is equal to the length of the perimeter of the structure;
• A convenient connection method is a clamp lock;
• Corrosion resistance;
• Several types of material - polyethylene and PVC;
• Resistance to temperature changes and weather conditions;
• Plastic ebbs are varied in color and design, this makes it possible to choose the desired option specifically for your home project.

It should be noted that ebbs made from polyvinyl chloride are a little more reliable, this is due to their heat resistance. But they still cannot withstand low temperatures. Also, during installation, a pipe with a cross-section of at least 45 mm will be required as an addition.

Calculation of the required drainage diameter

Before starting work on installing the ebb, you need to make calculations of its dimensions, otherwise you risk building a structure that will not perform its main functions.

The roof area can be calculated according to this principle: the area is equal to the length of the roof, including the height of the roof plus the length of the slope, this value is divided in half.

It is necessary to take into account the distances between drainage systems and between the turning points of the gutter. Gutters must be located above the drainage system.

For each roof slope, it is necessary to consider installing two gutters; the diameter of one structure should be no more than 125 millimeters.

Preparation for installation

Before work on the installation of drip tides begins, it is important to ensure that all the necessary tools are prepared. Installation may require:

• marking tool - for example, a marker;
• tape measure – used for taking measurements;
• square, ruler - can also be useful for applying markings that require precise angles (for example, when shortening gutters);
• screwdriver, drill – for fastening drain elements;
• a hacksaw for metal – useful for giving structural elements the required dimensions;
• long string - convenient for aligning the holder brackets to a certain level during their fastening;
• stepladder - without it it will be very difficult to climb to the very top of the building.

Minimum set of tools for installation of ebb and flow sills

It is also worth stocking up on screws and sealant. It is recommended to work carefully, especially when under the roof itself. It is best if a safety rope is used, but this only applies to fairly tall buildings. It is also recommended to invite an assistant to help, who will be able to support the structural elements or give something at the right time.

Silicone sealant

Prices for silicone sealants

Silicone sealant

Stage VI. Installation of vertical drainage elements

Drainpipes, where water flows from the gutters, must be secured to the walls of the house using special holders. These consist of a clamp that covers the pipe and a fastening element that is directly mounted into the wall. Most often this is a long nail, a plate with screws, or a special pointed rod.

Holders should be located above each pipe connection. For example, when installing long straight sections, the holders should be fastened in increments of up to 2 meters. Moreover, for walls made of different materials (brick or wood), you need to use your own fastening elements.

Here's the whole process in detail:

Drainpipes, in which water flows from the gutters, must be secured to the walls of the house using holders. Typically, such an element is a screw, a nail, a pointed rod or a plate that is attached with screws. It is important that the holders are located under each socket - this is the junction of the pipes.

When you install long and straight sections of pipes, attach the holders in 1.8 meter increments. Please note that different holders are used for wooden and brick walls. Thus, the kit for a drainage system for brick walls usually includes screws and a plastic dowel, under which holes are pre-drilled to suit its size. Gutters are attached to wooden walls using a plate with screws or a rod. A long rod is simply driven into the wood, but you can’t do without plates when the walls are too thin.

Requirements for installing do-it-yourself drainage systems

High-quality installation requires compliance with certain rules:

1. In order for the ebb tides to function effectively, it is necessary to have an inclination in the direction of the water intake funnels and pipes. It is made at the rate of 1-3 centimeters per linear meter.
2. The cross-sectional size of the gutter is determined based on the size of the slopes. If the roof has a surface of about 90 square meters, use flashings having an 8-centimeter diameter. The larger the area of ​​the slopes, the larger this parameter should be for the gutter.
3. The ebbs are mounted below the edge of the overhang at least 3 centimeters so that they are not torn off when the snow masses melt off the slopes.
4. Vertically laid drainpipes, which serve to move water from ebb tides to storm sewer elements, are placed at intervals of 5–6 meters. If the house has a complex configuration, they are made at each corner of the roof.
5. To prevent drops flying from the gutter from getting under the roofing material, a drip tray is installed.
6. To know how many meters of low tide you need to purchase, calculate the perimeter of the building and add 10 - 15% for trimming and observing overlaps at the joining points of the elements.
7. When choosing a gutter, take into account how to attach the ebbs according to the technology. You should select funnels, brackets and pipes, which should be made of similar material.

What are residential building tides?

The organization of water drainage from the roof of a residential building directly depends on the shape of the roof and

A house without organized water drainage: is this realistic?

Perhaps you have ever had the idea that it is possible to do without any gutters at all - didn’t they do without them in Rus' before? Yes, not only that, I still practice this approach today!

For example, if a house is built strictly in a certain style, and the drainpipes on it cannot be hidden or adjusted to the chosen exterior design in any way. In this case, builders do everything to ensure that rainwater does not harm the building in any way.

To do this, the roof is built so that it has a wide canopy and protrudes beyond the front of the wall by at least half a meter. Next, vertical insulation is laid on the foundation walls, and the foundation itself is a high base made of non-moisture-intensive materials, such as ceramic tiles or stone.

The second step is to make a vertical layout of the area so that there is a noticeable slope from the house under your feet - this way the water will flow freely from the roof and immediately move away from the foundation of the house.

Flashings of a standard gable roof

Standard flashings for a gable roof consist of the following elements:

In those places where the water flow will be under high pressure (most often under the valley), a limiter is also placed on the gutter or corner of the gutter.

Organization of water drainage from a flat roof

But on the roof of a flat house, the ebb tides look a little different:

In order to organize the drainage of water from a flat roof, it is first equipped with a parapet with a height of 30 to 90 cm, which also serves as a fence. Next, a drain is installed, in most cases internal.

Internal drainage is considered more reliable, because... such a system is almost not exposed to atmospheric influences. Install water intake funnels only on low areas of the roof, which is quite logical. If your roof is up to 150 m2, then install two funnels: a standard one with a riser and an emergency one, which will remove water through the parapet.

But it is extremely important that your flat roof drip system always works properly. And for this, such a system must be passable, i.e. protected from being blocked by leaves in autumn and snow in winter. For this purpose, a basket is attached to the crimp ring or flange on the funnel and heating cables are laid. And at the bottom of the pipe an inspection is installed for cleaning and control. The water itself flows through the internal drain into the main collector.

Types of drainage tides

What is important is the choice of material for roofing work. This parameter is decisive, since even hard metal can be bored and corroded by salts, acids, and improper installation.

What materials are they made from?

There are few materials for production. In total, there are several requirements for them:

1. Frost resistance. The gutter will be located on the street in the open air. The test for him will be temperature changes, namely seasonal changes in weather. All materials have a certain frost resistance, that is, the number of cooling and heating cycles.
2. No corrosion. Corrosion is the main enemy of ferrous metals, so raw structural steel rusts easily and cannot withstand the required loads. Ferrous metal in an unprocessed and unalloyed state is not allowed for waste production.
3. Moisture resistance. Roof drains cannot absorb water as this will reduce their quality. For this reason, the use of wood and other porous materials is not allowed.

Stage VII. Protects galvanized gutters from scratches and corrosion

The main enemy of galvanized gutters and drains is branches and debris that fall onto the roof with the wind and are washed into the drain by rain. These can scratch even the most resistant polymer coating (and it’s much worse without it at all), and therefore it is better to protect the entire system as much as possible.

The simplest method is gratings, which are produced today in standard parameters: slotted, perforated, stainless steel, plastic, galvanized, brass and cast iron. They need to be secured with a latch or with screws and nuts. It is important that the top surface of the grating remains 25 mm below the surface of the roofing so that rainwater drains well into the gutter.

In turn, the basket will also help to cope with the problem. Water flows through the gutters, and the basket retains the largest contaminants, such as leaves and branches. This basket is easy to remove and clean, which is its advantage. Also, such a modern element of the drainage system as a sand trap is designed for the same thing as a rain inlet, but at the same time retains smaller dirt and sand.

Here's a good example of how to protect a galvanized drain from debris:

Stage II. Designing a future drainage system

The rules are quite simple:

1. If the roof area is less than 50 square meters, then you will need 100mm wide gutters and 75mm diameter pipes;
2. If the roof is from up to 100 square meters, you need gutters of 125 mm and pipes with a diameter of 87 mm;
3. If the roof covers a fairly large building and its total area exceeds 100 square meters, then install 150 mm gutters and 100 mm pipes, or another combination of them - 190 mm gutters and 120 mm pipes, this is also possible.

Now we calculate the funnels for the galvanized drain. One standard funnel can collect rainwater over an area of ​​about 100 square meters. Although much here depends on the size of the drainage system itself. For example, if it is equal to the parameters 150x100, then one funnel will collect water from 150 square meters or from 15 linear meters of gutters. But it’s easier to calculate the number of vertical pipes: just divide the height of the building by the length of the drainpipe you purchased (usually 1-2-3 meters) and multiply by the number of funnels.

Special online calculators on our website will help you calculate the entire system more accurately.

Stage III. We prepare drainage elements

So, now let’s figure it out if you decide to purchase a galvanized sheet and build a drain for your home yourself. Working with galvanization is not difficult, because its protective layer is quite resistant to abrasion and damage, so such parts can be easily bent and even subjected to impacts. The main thing is to avoid deep scratches while working, that’s all.

The easiest way to cut industrial galvanized gutters is with a fine-toothed saw - a hacksaw or a special metal saw. And to make small holes, use special metal scissors. But there is one point here: for galvanized drainage elements you cannot use an angle grinder like a grinder, because... it heats up the steel and destroys the galvanized coating.

Preparations need to be made in advance - these are templates for all drainage elements. For example, for a funnel it is a ring segment, and for a pipe it is a rectangle. Moreover, you can easily cope with all this on your own, and industrial or home-made machines will only make the process a little easier for you. Today you can purchase quite a variety of bending equipment for this matter, for example, roller benders or a creasing machine, or even rolling beams:

These are the items you will need to make:

Or even limit yourself to this brilliantly simple option, which has the right to life for a small country house or garden building:

And in order to make a high-quality drainage system from this material, you will not need much:

• galvanized iron sheets, about 0.7 mm thick;
• ordinary metal scissors;
• hammer, mallet and pliers.

Make all closed galvanized drainage products with a seam connection. This is a lock that holds the seams together and is quite airtight. The easiest way for you to make a single fold with a simple layout at the edges and with two bends. If you want to make something more complicated, then direct the folds in opposite directions. For drainpipes, a seam with a seam width of 4 to 10 mm is sufficient, so do not complicate the whole process. By the way, almost all galvanized drainage elements are connected using the seam method. Therefore, you can easily make angles and tees of any inclination, angle and configuration.

Here is one of the most popular methods for manufacturing galvanized drainage elements:

• Step 1. Pay close attention to the galvanized sheet itself: it must be smooth, with a uniform surface and processed edges. And, when you start designing your future drainage system, separately outline all the elements you need. After this, place the galvanized sheet on a hard surface and draw a pattern for the future part with a sharp object.
• Step 2. If you are working on making a pipe, then the width of the pattern should be equal to the future diameter of the product plus 12 centimeters on each side for the seam. Also increase the length of the drain by a couple of centimeters. Now use metal scissors to cut out the workpiece, outline the bend of the fold and bend the edges with a mallet. For this, only half a centimeter will be enough.
• Step 3. It will be easy to give your workpiece the shape of a drainpipe: just wrap it around an object of the desired shape, for example, a plastic pipe.
• Step 4. Now cut the gutters and pipes using a hacksaw. All burrs should be thoroughly cleaned with a simple file, otherwise they will interfere with the sealing of the drainage joints.
• Step 5. Simply fold the edges of the strips onto the angle steel, then roll up the sheet and secure the whole thing with a hammer.
• Step 6. Now make an L-shaped fold and hook the edge into the lock. Secure this edge by tapping the edges with a hammer. Just be sure to follow all precautions to avoid injury or cuts from the sharp edges of the sheet metal.

Here is a good example of also simple manufacturing of a galvanized steel drain:

The only difficulty you will encounter is connecting homemade elements to each other. To do this, slightly adjust the short edge of the sheet before rolling it so that it becomes thinner by a couple of millimeters.

Here is another practical instruction for working with this material:

• Step 1. For the pipe, you need to cut a blank from a single sheet, on one side 3.40 meters and the other 3.30 meters.
• Step 2. Now we make seams for the pipe on both sides. To do this, on a metal corner we simply bend the edges of the leaflet 7 mm each with a mallet and bend them in different directions from each other at an angle of 90 degrees.
• Step 3. Turn the workpiece over with the curved corners up and use a mallet to achieve this angle to 130-150 degrees.
• Step 4. As a result, your workpiece should protrude only 1 cm from the corner, and tap it with a mallet along the entire length of the corner. Make such blows that they are strong and confident. Your mallet should lie exactly on the plane of the corner, and at the same time not deviate either to the right or to the left, so as not to damage the seam.
• Step 5. Now we crimp the workpiece around some other pipe and interlock the seams. After this, hit the workpiece with a mallet at the point of adhesion until the corners are completely crossed.
• Step 6. The most ordinary can opener will help you cut your finished pipe into separate elements, oddly enough. Only after cutting, clean the edges.

If you did everything correctly, your parts should fit easily with other elements of the drainage system, even factory-made ones.

Stage VI. Installation of horizontal drainage elements

Modern galvanized gutters are connected using brackets, latches, locks or rubber gaskets. The easiest installation process is a special snap-on design:

• Step 1. All gutters must be aligned symmetrically in the center so that the joint remains 3-4 millimeters between them.
• Step 2: Now pull the front of the connector towards the gutter and snap the lock into place.
• Step 3. The next step is to lock the lock itself by returning the latch to its original position.
• Step 4. Next, install additional hooks at a distance of 10-15 centimeters from the connection of the gutters.
• Step 5. Now the curl of the gutter needs to be inserted into the curl of the corner to a depth of 2-3 cm, and then sealed.
• Step 6. Secure the connection with two rivets and install an additional gutter connector.
• Step 7. The curl on the plugs must be placed at an angle and turned in the opposite direction. You should feel that the plug is inserted into the gutter all the way. Use special glue to seal and secure. But on the back side of the gutter, the plug needs to be secured with rivets.
• Step 8. Now we mount the funnel. Hook its front edge onto the front edge of the gutter and turn the funnel in its direction so that the retaining plate bends inside the gutter. If desired, insert a “spider” into the funnel at this stage.
• Step 11. At the last stage, we make the transition from the funnel to the drainpipe. To do this you need two universal elbows. Consider water drainage below.
• Step 12. Mount the corner elements of the gutter according to the marks as you did for the funnel and gutter connectors.
• Step 13. Then install plugs at the ends of the gutters so that the distance to the gable roof boards is at least 3 centimeters.
• Step 14. Install the pipes starting from the funnel. If the roof offset is small, then use a coupling or coupling outlet.
• Step 15. Install the pipe bracket and leave 10mm to accommodate thermal expansion - this is a very important point.

Here is a good master class on this topic:

Made from galvanized steel

Galvanized steel is considered a durable metal that is resistant to rust, frost and ultraviolet radiation. The only negative is that the fastening seams come apart due to temperature changes.

First you need to prepare galvanized sheets. The workpiece is cut with metal scissors, adding 1.5 cm to the folds in width.

This material can be easily reshaped. For folds, it is enough to attach a ruler or a piece of timber to the sheet and beat it with a hammer. To give it a round shape, the pipe or log is wrapped in a sheet and passed with a hammer or mallet.

The finished structure is attached to brackets. The gutters are overlapped by 10 cm. Funnels are made using scissors, bending the metal according to your ideas. The pipes are fastened with clamps.

Pipe making

To begin with, you should design the funnel and make a rough drawing on a sheet of paper. Then you should start transferring the drawing onto the sheet metal.

A straight line is drawn from the edges with an indent of 0.5 cm from the edge and 1 cm from the other. Having cut out the part, bend the drawn edges at a right angle, an indent of 1 cm, and the other at an acute angle.

When folding the workpiece, the edges of the corners should fit into each other. Use a hammer to add tenacity to the pipe seam. Having special machines for bending metal, the process will take less time.

Funnel

The funnel consists of two different parts. Its diameter should be equal to the diameter of the pipe. The parts of the funnel are drawn separately on a sheet of tin. After cutting with scissors, as in making pipes, leave 1.5 cm from the edge for joining. They should connect outwards.

Funnels at home are difficult to make for a beginner, so if it doesn’t work out, you can buy ready-made ones in the store. It won't hurt your pocket that much.

Brackets

Brackets help support gutters. You can make this important hook-shaped item yourself. It is better to take material of the same width so that the brackets are identical.

To do this, you need steel with a thickness of more than 2 mm, this will allow you to hold the weight. Electrical strips are ideal for workpieces. Dimensions: 40 cm by 2 cm. The workpiece is bent using a pipe and nails driven into wood using a lever.

After manufacturing, two holes are drilled for fastening. Painted brackets, thus protected from rust, last much longer.

Painted metal is protected from rust and corrosion. This means that the service life of the product made from it increases.

For a temporary structure, the brackets are made of wood. Cutting indentations for the gutter in a piece of timber. Some nail them to the rafters on the roof.

Content

Until relatively recently, almost all drainage systems in Russia were made of metal only, although galvanized drains were rarely used due to their high cost. But modern drainage systems made of such material have the highest resistance to ultraviolet rays, temperature changes and corrosion of all metal ones.

We are talking about steel of a special alloy, which is also durable and resistant to serious mechanical damage. Moreover, you can choose the protective coating in all its diversity as matte. and glossy, and modern galvanized gutters are coated with plastisol, pural or polyester. But until recently, only manufacturers of plastic drainage systems offered at least some color range, but today both steel and aluminum systems have such designer luxury. The only gutter that is still not customary to paint is copper.

This is what a modern galvanized steel drain looks like:

The only disadvantage that you will still have to face is the frequency of repairs, because... Due to thermal expansion and contraction, the seams in such drains often come apart. Well, then such disadvantages should be compared with plastic cracks, the fragility of ordinary metal gutters and the special attractiveness of copper ones for swindlers.

And keep in mind that galvanized gutters are not suitable for all roofing materials. The fact is that if bitumen was used in the roofing coating, like flexible tiles, then in the heat it melts and sometimes ends up on the pipes themselves. And there the bitumen enters into a chemical reaction with the protective layer of galvanized gutters - polymers. And this causes rust in a short time.

But most of all, galvanized drainage is still valued for the ease of working with it:

Stage IV. Preparing the roof for gutter installation

The entire installation process of a galvanized drainage system includes 7 main stages:

• Step 1. Marking on the walls and roof.
• Step 2. Fastening the outer elements for the gutter.
• Step 3. Restore the level and level the suspension to the desired slope.
• Step 4. Installation connection of gutters.
• Step 5. Connecting the funnels.
• Step 6. Fastening the clamps for the vertical elements of the drains.
• Step 7. Fixing the drainage pipes.

This step-by-step illustration clearly shows the process itself:

In your work you will need the following tools:

Stage V. Installation of fasteners

For a galvanized drain, due to its lightness, the most rational method of fastening to rafter legs is considered. This option is ideal for roofs with a large surface area. Gutters can be installed in this way only before the roofing is laid. Combined brackets with extensions are used here as a fastening element. They are fixed directly to the rafter leg if the rafter pitch is no more than 60 centimeters:

Another option is to install a fastening element on the sheathing if the pitch of the rafters does not exceed 60 cm. This method is especially common if the roof is covered with metal tiles or ondulin.

It’s easier to work with brackets that are attached to the side of the rafters. In fact, the slope of the gutter is created due to the fact that each subsequent bracket is attached slightly lower than the previous one.

The most difficult thing is to screw on the front brackets, because they need to be installed on the wind board. In this case, it is very important to determine the direction of the gutter slope and calculate the difference between the levels of the first and last bracket: