Arrangement and design of entrance door elements

The entrance door is an important element of the enclosing structure of a residential or office space. This product protects an apartment or private house from unauthorized entry, and also has increased heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties. In order to choose the most suitable product that will satisfy all the requirements placed on it, the owner of a residential premises needs to understand the structure of the front door.

Rice. 1. Entrance doors to the store

The structure of the door leaf

The door leaf is the main enclosing element of filling the opening, which is manufactured in accordance with the conditions of ensuring burglary resistance, fire safety and other requirements for similar structures. All metal sheets installed in apartments have the following structure:

A rectangular frame made of a square pipe or a U-shaped plate, the dimensions of which correspond to the linear dimensions of the canvas. This part is manufactured on a pre-prepared slipway to maintain geometry and eliminate defects during production.
On the outside, a steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 to 3.0 mm is welded to the frame, depending on the protection class of the product.
On the inside, the frame is crossed by several stiffening ribs made of steel angles or profiles of a different shape, with an increased moment of inertia to ensure bending work.

Rice. 2. Assembly in the workshop

The inner surface of the canvas is usually arranged based on aesthetic considerations, fitting into the decoration of the premises. Thus, the most popular solution is to install an MDF panel with laminated film of different textures and shades.
The empty space between the steel sheet and the MDF panel is filled with effective non-flammable insulation, which simultaneously plays the role of sound insulation and fire barrier.
Considering that for increased burglary resistance, the locking device activates the crossbars along the entire perimeter of the door leaf; a traction mechanism with solid metal rods is located in the center.
In order to make access to the room difficult, the location of the lock is reinforced with an additional steel plate on the inside of the sheet.
The metal entrance door must also protect the room from drafts, which is why sealing tape is glued around the perimeter of its door slats.
The canvas is attached to the box through standard hinges, but to ensure free opening of the heavy element without effort, each of them is equipped with a ball bearing that eliminates friction.
The burglary resistance of the door leaf is guaranteed by the quality of the edging clamping strip, as well as the tightness of its fit to the frame.
To prevent intruders from dismantling the door if the hinges are cut, the design has special pins at the points where it interfaces with the frame on the hanger side.

Rice. 3. Complete set

If all the above elements are made of high-quality steel, and the welded joints are made with control of the uniformity of the seams, such a door leaf can last for several decades.

Locks and locking devices

The locks themselves, their structure and reliability can be studied for a long time. But it is worth remembering that there must be a reinforcement plate in the door structure in the area where the locks are installed. The thickness of the steel should be at least twice as thick as in other places. If the additional lining is made of super-strong steel (manganese), this is an additional plus for choosing this particular metal door.

Not only the lock is important, but also the presence of reinforcement

What kind of locks should I put?

For those who do not want to delve too deeply into the study of types of locks, you just need to know that for a sufficient level of reliability, it is advisable to have two locking devices of different systems. Most often they install cylinder and lever ones. On the door they should not stand next to each other, but at a distance from each other. The greater this distance, the better - this reduces the possibility of pressing the door, since the locks are spaced at a considerable distance. It is also advisable to have a latch on the inside. Its design is at your discretion. This is so that if someone is at home, the door cannot be opened from outside. A greater number of constipations brings more trouble to the owners than inconvenience to the burglars.

Choosing locks for a metal door is a serious matter.

One of the traditional locks can be replaced with an electronic lock. It does not have a keyhole; it is opened not with ordinary keys, but with a remote control, like on an anti-theft device for cars. A good option, but it costs a lot. Installing a “two in one” type lock with two systems is not entirely correct. After all, two locks are needed precisely so that the bolts are spaced as far apart as possible.

When choosing a lock for a metal door, European or American brands are often preferred. Yes, they are more expensive, but more reliable. The Italian companies Cisa, Mottura have proven themselves well, the Turkish Kale, the Austrian EVVA, the German Saturn and Diamant are quite good. If the budget is limited, there are good Russian ones: St. Petersburg Kerberos (with a cut-off lever) and Barrier.

Additional locking devices

Some doors are equipped with additional devices to protect against mechanical burglary. These are pins and bolts that, when the lock is turned, move out of the door leaf, entering the holes made for them in the door frame. There are several types of these devices: thrusters, deviators and crabs.

If, when you turn the key, pins appear at the top and bottom of the door leaf, these are rods. If additional pins come out in a horizontal plane (usually at the top and bottom on the lock side, but can also be on the hinge side) these are deviators. The deviators can be of any shape - in the form of round pins or rotary hook-shaped ones. If the pins appear both from the bottom/top and from the loop side, this system is called a “crab”.

Schemes of additional crossbars to increase the burglary resistance of the door

All of them are good as additional measures against mechanical burglary: if they try to press the door leaf away from the door frame, they will greatly complicate the task. But if they open it with a master key or some other “intelligent” method, this will not help. In addition, please note that all bolts operate from the lock. So if you decide to choose a metal door with crossbars, the lock must have exits to connect to them. If they are not there, all additional constipation is useless.

Door frame device

The second important element of a metal entrance door is the frame, or supporting frame. This part is designed to transfer the force from the movement of the door and external forces to the load-bearing wall. The frame is made of steel profiles with rebates to tightly close the door, and its design has the following distinctive features:

The internal dimensions of the frame correspond to the external dimensions of the canvas, and its outline in the profile has protrusions for a tight fit of the elements to each other.
The frame consists of 4 profile linear elements - two racks, a threshold and a lintel.
Each of the box parts is made using two rectangular profile pipes with dimensions 50 x 25 mm - 60 x 30 mm.
The posts are connected to the cross bars using resistance spot welding, which does not contribute to metal deformation under the influence of high temperatures.

Rice. 4. Canvas frame

To strengthen the frame, some manufacturers weld steel plates into the two upper corners, which subsequently prevent the box from losing its orthogonality.
The stand to which the door hangers are welded may have a more rigid structure, since it is on it that a couple of forces act when opening the door. On the same element there are holes for steel pins, blocking the possibility of dismantling.
The opposite rack is equipped with holes for the bolts of the locking mechanisms.
A small cross-section profile, usually 16 x 10 mm, is welded along the entire perimeter of the frame to form a quarter into which the border strip rests through a layer of sealant.
On the outside of the box, which is installed in alignment with the wall, there are steel platbands, rigidly connected to the supporting frame by welding. These elements, in addition to aesthetic considerations, have a practical function, since if you try to break in, it is almost impossible to get to the fastening elements of the box to the end of the wall.

Rice. 5. MDF panel

Fastening the door frame to the load-bearing wall can be done either through through drilling followed by the installation of exhaust wedge anchors, or through mounting plates. In the second case, steel squares with a thickness of 2 - 3 mm and dimensions of 40 x 40 mm or 50 x 50 mm with mounting holes are welded along the entire perimeter of the linear elements. The installation step of such elements along the height of the rack and lintel is 300 - 500 mm, depending on the mass of the entire structure.

Making a classic metal door

Classic steel doors are a structure made of a leaf, a frame, door hinges, and mounting plates.

Door frame assembly

So, the first thing you need to do is assemble the box or block. To do this, a prepared profile pipe is cut according to the parameters obtained during measurements. The cutting is done at an angle of 45 degrees. The cutting accuracy can be checked by connecting two pieces, and then checking the resulting structure with a corner.

There is another way to produce a box. In this version, the frame is assembled from a metal profile by welding. The result should be a rectangular structure. During the assembly process, it is very important to control the accuracy of the angles, as well as measure the diagonals - this is done to eliminate the risk of block distortions.

Assembling the door frame

At this step, blanks for the future frame are made. A metal corner is suitable for these purposes. It is necessary to maintain a gap between the door frame and the frame on the lock side - it is approximately 5 mm. On other sides it will be enough if the gap is 3 mm. These are not exact numbers - in different drawings of metal doors this size may be slightly different. To make it more clear, strips of metal of the required thickness are used to measure and control these gaps.

Next, the profile is marked and cut. It is placed inside the resulting box. Then the geometric characteristics of the structure are checked along the diagonals. If everything is correct, then a groove or slot is made on one side of the profile for mounting the lock. After this, the corners of the frame can be tacked by welding; the frames around the perimeter are also tacked at several points.

At this step, you can already weld strips of metal to the door frame, which will serve as fasteners for finishing materials.

Manufacturing of door leaf

Creating a canvas should begin with markings. It is worth taking into account the tolerances and overlaps of sheet metal on the door frame of 10-15 cm. The overlap from the hinges is also taken into account. In various drawings of metal doors it is 5 mm.

The steel sheet according to the drawings and dimensions is cut using a grinder and welded to the finished frame. Stiffening ribs are welded inside the canvas. They must be installed horizontally. If the level of rigidity is insufficient, then their number can be increased.

Lock installation

The door is almost finished. To install the lock, make markings directly on the canvas. You can mark the holes for the holes with a regular marker. Then a hole is drilled along the marked marks, which then needs to be processed with a file. Next, holes are made for the fastening elements of the future lock. The holes are threaded, then the locking device is fixed with bolts. At the end, install a handle.

This is a standard instruction that is suitable for most locks, but lock designs may vary, and the installation itself depends on the product.

Loops

Before welding these elements to the resulting structure - doors and block, it is necessary to lubricate them. Using a grinder, the places where the frame and the door block are connected are cut - these are the points that were previously tacked with a welding machine. The hinges are fixed from the inside.

Fasteners

To fasten the resulting structure into the opening, strips of metal are used. You need from 6 to 10 pieces. They are simply welded to the box. Then you will need to drill holes in them for the anchor bolts.

Insulation and finishing

The door is almost ready. Now all that remains is to insulate it. The thermal insulation option you choose is cut and placed inside the canvas. The insulation is placed between the stiffening ribs.

After this, you can begin to decorate the inside of the door. Plywood, laminated panels, and any other material are suitable for these purposes.

What determines the thickness of the sash?

A door leaf can have several classes of protection against penetration and burglary, which affects the number of steel elements of which it consists. Manufacturers produce three main types of sashes:

In the standard version of the classic entrance door, the thickness of the structure, consisting of a profile frame, a steel sheet on the outside and an MDF panel on the inside, is 60 - 75 mm, which is due to the design decision of the finishing on the room side.
This rule works if the door is installed between the apartment and the staircase-elevator hall, that is, a room with a slight temperature difference. When it comes to constructing a door bordering an outdoor space, then, in accordance with the thermal engineering calculations and determination of the heat transfer resistance of the enclosing structure, more effective insulation is placed in the body of the leaf. In this case, the frame profile is artificially increased, and the door can have a thickness of 100 to 120 mm.

Rice. 6. Door to the cottage

When a homeowner wants to protect his premises as much as possible from unauthorized entry, the sash can consist of two metal plates - an outer and an inner one, onto which, in turn, an MDF panel is attached. The thickness of such a door can be about 80 - 90 mm.

It should be taken into account that increased burglary resistance always significantly increases the mass of the canvas, which leads to increased inertia in the event of its slamming. If an element on bearing suspensions weighs 200 kilograms or more, then the force of inertia can seriously injure a person, therefore the operation of such elements requires compliance with safety precautions.

The most important design elements

The design of the front door consists of several most significant parts. First of all, this is the frame of the frame and the sash, which is made of metal. It is very important to choose the right profile and thickness of steel, as well as its grade. All of the above parameters have a significant impact on the final result.

The sash lining, also made of steel, is also of great importance. However, in this case, not profiled metal is used, but sheet metal. Here you should also carefully and carefully select its thickness, as well as work with high-quality material.

The insulation characteristics of a steel entrance door are determined by two structural elements:

filler used in manufacturing. The most popular today are dense varieties of mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and other modern thermal insulation materials. Budget models can still use corrugated cardboard, foam rubber and other less modern insulation materials that do not have impressive parameters;
the quality of seals and the number of insulating circuits. The most common are dual-circuit products that have an affordable price, but at the same time have a fairly serious level of the parameters under consideration. Designs with three circuits are even more reliable, however, it should be borne in mind that you will have to pay extra for improved performance.

The last main element of the design is the decorative coating of the steel door. The level of finishing is determined by the technology used and the quality of the materials used in the work. Today, the market offers many different coating options that can satisfy the most sophisticated and demanding needs of potential buyers.

Why are stiffeners needed?

If there is an attempt to break into the door, but the lock or hinges do not budge. Attackers may resort to brute force and try to deform the canvas with strong blows with a sledgehammer. In order to withstand such influences, developers introduce stiffening ribs into the design of the canvas, which have the following design features:

Reinforcement can be made along the long side - along the height of the canvas - profiles are welded from the bottom to the top of the frame in the amount of 1 - 2 elements.
The transverse arrangement of the ribs is in increments of 400 - 500 mm along the width of the sash, fastening is carried out to both frame posts.
The most effective is the mutually perpendicular arrangement of the stiffening ribs, when they are fixed both in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

Rice. 7. Stiffening ribs

Each new model released into production must undergo bench tests, on the basis of which the product receives a certificate of compliance with a certain protection class, and the presence of stiffeners allows the consumer to be confident in increased strength characteristics.

Necessary materials, tools

The most expensive thing you will need is metal. All other components and materials will not be too expensive, of course, excluding decorative finishes. If you roughly estimate the amount for all expenses, then you will need no more than 100-150 dollars. At this price it is impossible to purchase even dubious Chinese products.

As for the materials needed for work, there are few of them. You need to purchase a profile pipe - suitable with a cross section of 20x40 mm. The pipe should be purchased in quantities of 20 linear meters - this volume is quite enough to produce a block of standard sizes (about 1 m wide and 2 m long). It is not difficult to calculate the amount of material for other dimensions. In case of any incomprehensible situations, it is worth looking at the sketch - today you can find a lot of drawings of metal doors and use them for assembly.

Sheet metal is also required. Its thickness must be at least 2.5 mm. The overall dimensions are the size of the future door, or rather the opening.

You should also prepare the hinges; you should choose models that are equipped with a bearing. These components are purchased in quantities of three. The canvas will be quite heavy, so three loops are the most reliable option.

In addition, additional fittings, thermal insulation, and materials for decorative finishing are required. Don’t forget about consumables – these are circles for power tools, welding electrodes, drills, consumables for jigsaws.

The tools you should prepare are a welding machine, a welding table, a grinder, an electric drill, and a jigsaw.

Features of fabric insulation

Considering that, in accordance with the thermal engineering calculations, the entrance doors are part of the enclosing structures, insulation is placed in the body of the door leaf, which prevents the penetration of cold into the room and eliminates heat loss. The thermal insulation of the canvas is a non-flammable material, and it is fixed in the sash according to the following algorithm:

Before closing the cavity in the sash with an MDF panel, the space is filled with soft mineral wool, taking into account the corners and metal elements inside the frame. This material is characterized by high porosity, low volumetric weight, non-flammability, the ability to absorb vibrations and thermal properties.
After the door leaf is completely filled with insulation from the inside, it is necessary to organize wind protection and noise absorption in the vestibules, and this problem is easily solved with the help of silicone, rubber or felt tape. Depending on the complexity of the cross-section of the rebate, the manufacturer can arrange from one to 3 sealing contours around the perimeter of the door.

The last stage of insulation is finishing the slopes from the inside. The fact is that, despite the presence of foam in the installation gaps, the perimeter of the door is a cold bridge, and it can be avoided by insulating the space between the decorative part of the slope and the wall.

Rice. 8. Thermal insulation inside the sash

All 3 levels of insulation made from high-quality materials will help to extinguish not only extraneous sounds or prevent the penetration of cold, but also completely cut off any odors from the outside of the room.

Homemade door compared to a factory one

The first disadvantage is the rationality of this decision. The cost of materials and fittings is a considerable amount, although the simplest factory door will cost 30% more, but you will save a lot of time and effort. Also, your welding skills are important. If you are not sufficiently qualified, there is a risk of marriage. In any case, factory welding will be much better.

But generally speaking, a homemade metal door is not a utopia, but a real reality for those who have welding skills and experience working with power tools.

Features of installing door locks

Locking mechanisms are an important component of every external door, since the security of the apartment depends on their level of complexity. Most often, breaking into metal doors is done not by brute force, but by selecting a master key to the lock cylinder, and intruders freely enter the apartment by simply opening the door. To select the right lock, the owner of the premises must follow some rules:

The quality and cost of the locking equipment should be on par with the door itself. So, if a sash with increased burglary resistance is equipped with a cheap and simple lock without any security levels, then this particular device will become the weak link in the entire structure.
The level of safety for residents in the house increases with the presence of an internal rotary latch, since such a mechanism does not have a through drive, and it is almost impossible to open it from the outside.
Many vigilant householders often install 2 or even 3 locks along the height of the door leaf, as this greatly increases the chances of saving property in the room in the event of a break-in attempt. There are also interconnected mechanisms on the market, when one of them locks the door around the perimeter with steel crossbars, and the second key blocks access to the first well.
Professionals in the field of law enforcement give ordinary people recommendations on installing different types of locks on the same blade, whose cylinders differ in the type of key used. This is due to the fact that if an attacker has the opportunity to pick up the key to the lock, then a second locking mechanism of a similar design will seem even easier for him to break into. If the same blade is equipped with both rotary and lever mechanisms, then unauthorized entry in a short time is almost impossible.

Rice. 9. High-tech lock

In general, the lock must have a unique opening system with an increased level of secrecy and a reprogrammable cylinder. The use of high-tech and expensive mechanisms will increase the homeowner’s chances of protecting his own property.

Finishing

Making a metal door with your own hands is not all. It must be formatted accordingly. With blocks installed in outbuildings it is quite simple; as a rule, they are painted. But if we are talking about a door at the entrance to a residential building (apartment), then it is advisable to decorate it. The choice of option is at the discretion of the owner, and some recommendations will help with this.

How you can finish the canvas:

Solid materials - multi-layer plywood, fiberboard, vinyl plastic, wooden lining, laminate, MDF followed by varnish coating (colorless or with tinting components).
Leatherette and leatherette are used to cover the sash.
The water door to the apartment can be covered with decorative film. Since the impact of atmospheric factors is minimal, this finish will last a long time. And taking into account the low cost and simplicity of design, it is one of the best solutions.

Additional security elements installed on the front door

Different manufacturers have been competing with each other for many years, positioning their products as the most reliable on the market. Due to the fact that a change in the fundamental design of the canvas or box inevitably entails an increase in price, developers are introducing additional elements that increase the level of safety:

Door hangers can be either hidden or open. It is believed that the hinges hidden inside the canvas and the box reduce the risk of them being cut off during a break-in. It must be said that these parts are intended solely to ensure comfort when opening, since attackers never try to cut them off, knowing that the opening filling kit is blocked by steel crossbars along the inner perimeter.
A metal rod that prevents the door leaf from being dismantled from the hangers if they are cut. This element is tightly welded to the end of the leaf from the hinge side and, when closing the sash, fits into a hole specially prepared for it, completely blocking the door from moving.
An optical or electronic peephole is another security element that allows the owner of the premises to see the person in front of the door from the outside. The wide viewing angle of the element does not allow an attacker to hide in the hall, and vigilant owners can protect their lives and property.

Rice. 10. Peephole in the front door

To ensure an increased level of security, some premises owners install sensors on the doors that send a signal to the private security console. This measure leads to the fact that if an attacker was able to open the door, he will inevitably break the magnetic connection between the electronic elements, automatically sending a call to the remote control.

Loops

Iron door door hinges must be designed to withstand heavy weight and long-term use. The weight will have to withstand at least 100 kg, so ball loops are usually used. The door movement will be easier if they are on bearings.

The optimal number of loops is two. With a larger number, it is difficult to center them, which will affect their service life. Two loops of normal “load capacity” are enough. If it costs more, most likely the factory did not have normal hinges and installed the ones that were available.

Hidden (right) and outdoor sang

By design, door hinges can be open or hidden. Hidden ones are considered more reliable, since they are invisible from the outside and cannot be cut off. But they have a number of disadvantages:

They are more expensive.
The door opening angle is limited - about 90°, while for external hinges it can be 180°, therefore, there may be problems with large items entering.
When opening a door, a significant force is generated. Trying to open the doors wider may cause the hinge to become skewed.
When installing such hinges, the door frame is cut, which reduces its strength.
It is difficult to properly position the insulation in the place where the hidden loop is installed.

In general, a rather ambiguous choice. If you have a limited budget, it is better to choose external hinges, but with the obligatory presence of anti-removal elements (labyrinth or pins).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMpq1gkT3jQ

How is the door finished on the outside?

If the inside of the door leaf is finished to match the interior of the room and harmonizes with the interior elements of filling the openings, then on the outside the finishing options are somewhat simpler. Most often, manufacturers resort to the following types of finishing of the outer part of the structure:

Regular metal paint is the simplest and cheapest option. The high-quality composition prevents the canvas from corrosion and has a decent appearance.
Overlay panel made of MDF or natural wood. This element is most often installed in cottages or other places where the front door leads straight outside. The finishing can be done to replicate any wood structure and in a wide variety of shades.
Leatherette or genuine leather - used in apartments, similar to old doors. It plays the role of additional insulation due to the presence of a felt pad between the decorative material and the steel sheet.

Rice. 11. Exterior decoration

The presence of external decoration of the front door indicates the status of the owner of the apartment, but, at the same time, provides unnecessary information for attackers about his wealth, which is an increased risk.

Preparation and measurements

So, the standard size of a doorway in most apartments is 2000x800 or 2000x900 mm. If the existing opening is smaller or larger, then the canvas can be made to a special size. When taking measurements, you should make sure that it is the wall that is being measured, and not concrete or plaster.

If the height of the box is slightly more than 2000 mm, then it is necessary to provide an additional frame on top, or in the side of the opening if its width is more than 900 mm. In addition, you should remember about a gap of several tens of millimeters on each side of the box. This gap is necessary for blowing in seams.

If the opening width is more than 1500 mm, then experts recommend making a collapsible box rather than a solid one. In cottages, in addition to the door leaf, two or more modules with glass are installed in wide openings, which make the structure more reliable and durable and perform a decorative function.

Click to open in full size.

During the preparation process, it is also worth starting to develop a drawing of a metal door. If the door leaf is unique and exclusive, then the drawing is made with your own hands. If the opening is standard, and the door structure will be a standard solution, then standard drawings can be used.

conclusions

All entrance doors have almost the same internal structure, and the consumer’s choice is most often made based on considerations of aesthetics, good price and additional elements. Before purchasing a product that is intended to last for 20–30 years, you must carefully study the market of competing manufacturers and customer reviews of the products of each plant. Based on the results of this analysis, any householder can choose a high-quality door for his apartment, cottage or office that meets all the requirements for it.

No. 1. Design features of a metal door

The strength and reliability of a door depends to one degree or another on the characteristics of each of its constituent elements:

the door leaf is the main and largest part of the structure, consisting of a frame, internal and external cladding, as well as stiffeners and insulation;
door frame;
lock;
loops;
seal in one or more circuits;
peephole, handle and other accessories.

The door leaf is made of sheet steel , which is obtained as a result of hot or cold rolling, on which the properties of the door largely depend:

Hot rolled steel has a dark color, but it is not visible under the decorative coating. This is a relatively cheap material that is more susceptible to corrosion;
Cold-rolled steel will cost more, but in terms of performance it is the best option - the material is not afraid of any weather influences.

Strength is also greatly influenced by the frame . The most reliable door will be one in which the frame is made of a profile pipe with one seam . A less durable frame is made from four sections of hot-rolled profile pipe welded together. The most unreliable will be a frame in which each of the four segments is welded from two corners of equal length. Simply put, the fewer welds in the frame, the better , because each of them reduces the resistance to mechanical loads. The outer part of the door leaf must be made only from a monolithic non-welded sheet , otherwise a blow with a medium-force sledgehammer will damage the integrity of the structure.

Optimal thickness of steel sheet

GOST 31173–2003 indicates that the optimal thickness of the steel leaf of the entrance door to an apartment should be at least 1.5 mm. We recommend paying attention to models with larger sheets of metal, but not more than 2 mm.

The thickness of the metal determines the mechanical strength of the door. Approximate values are as follows:

0.5 mm - can be easily cut with a kitchen knife, scissors, or punched with a strong blow with your fist. Found only on the cheapest Chinese doors.
0.7 mm - can be pierced with a strong kitchen knife, pruning shears, or metal scissors. Found on cheap doors, including domestic ones.
1.0 mm – can be pierced with a can opener, crowbar, or metal scissors. Found on budget doors, including domestic ones.
1.2 mm - can be pierced with a crowbar or can opener. Can still be cut with hand tin snips. It is found quite rarely, mainly on inexpensive doors.
1.5 mm - can be pierced with a can opener if you hit it with a hammer. Hand-held metal shears will no longer work. The most common option among inexpensive doors.
1.8 mm and more - can be punched and cut only with a grinder or other specialized tool, including hydraulic shears. Recommended for installation in apartments and private houses.

At the same time, it is not advisable to buy doors with an entrance leaf thickness of more than 2 mm. Of course, it will no longer be possible to open them without scaring the whole house with the grinding grinder or the roar of a battering ram. However, such doors weigh more than 100–150 kilograms, as a result of which they are simply not able to stay on the classic two hinges. You will need at least 3-4. The door frame, accordingly, must also be installed taking into account the fact that it will have to withstand a load of more than one and a half centners.

Of course, you can also find armored doors on the market. The thickness of the steel sheet from which they are made is at least 5 mm. Such doors are characterized by a very high weight, which can reach up to 300 kg, as a result of which they are always equipped with closers and other fittings designed to protect against injuries.

Single-leaf and double-leaf models

The height of structures can vary from 2 meters to 2.3 m. In some cases, transoms are installed at the top of the opening. This is typical for a private house, where the opening size for the entrance iron doors is too large. They don't have to be rectangular. The arched shape with stained glass glazing looks beautiful in a country house.

As for the width, it differs for different types:

Single-leaf structures are equipped with one leaf. It can be narrow at 600 mm or 650 mm wide. Such models are installed in typical premises, technical, warehouse. Standard canvases are more common.
Bivalve valves can have both working parts or only one; they are also called one-and-a-half. They have one part, narrower, that closes tightly and opens only when necessary. The width of one-and-a-half doors can be 1200 mm with a working part of 800 mm, as well as 1400 mm with working dimensions of 800 mm or 900 mm.
Double doors have both leaves of the same size and are equally functional. Each sash will be 600, 800 or 900 mm wide.